HLR calibration made easy  

I thought I would share some info that may help you calibrate your 1080P Samsung DLPs. After reading a number of posts, I decided to change the gamma to 0 from 2 and then set the picture to Standard and Warm2 which one poster reported was the closest to D65 based on the ISF who calibrated his display. However, with those settings, my display had a green tint to it. I then decided to enter the service menu and look at the CCA and CCA (on) menus. After a few minutes I figured out what the x, y, Y settings were for and, more importantly, where I could get the values for those settings.

I decided to downloaded a program from Babelcolor and proceeded to get the x, y, Y values for Red, Green, Blue, White, Cyan, Magenta, and Yellow for a number of different working spaces including CIF HD, NTSC, SMPTE 240M, SMPTE C, and sRGB. However, the Y values were very low compared to what the initial settings were in the Samsung, however, all Y factors seemed to be off by a factor of about 4. Then it dawned on me that Y is sampled 4 times, so I multiplied the Y by 4 to get the Y values for the CCA menu. The most important info here is that the CCA settings on the left are for STD color space and the ones in the middle with the D in front of them are for HD color space.

The person who got their TV calibrated professionally also mentioned that the Cyan setting was way off and the Magenta setting was also off by a good margin with yellow only being slightly off. When I looked at the values I got for Cyan, Magenta and Yellow from the software and compared them to the values in the Samsung that is exactly what I found.

I cant tell you that this will make your display 100% calibrated, but I can say that when I compare the colors on my HLR to the HLN that I had calibrated professionally they look nearly identical if not identical. I can now say that I am completly happy with my Samsung, at least until I have to call for service. I have attached an excel file with the x,y,Y coordinates for various work spaces. Hope this helps you DIY tweakers.

 

Color Settings.zip 3.4609375k . file

Yes, that is correct. I used the 601 and 709 spaces for mine.

That's a good point. If you don't know what a setting does or means leave it alone. Also, it may be easier to use a digital camera and take a picture of each screen so that you can see what the input is as well as the original setting values.

I don't think that I said that you shouldn't get the TV professionally calibrated, I said that by doing a little leg work and using some of my knowledge of Samsungs product, I was able to calibrate my HLR using the various coordinates of 2 workspaces so close to my HLN that I spent $400 on getting professionally calibrated.

Also, if someone did get it calibrated why don't they post the values to see how close they are to the SMPTE C and sRGB values. Perhaps Samsung has found a way to calibrate the TV by using workspace values based on feedback from ISF people.

All I can tell you is what I did and how it compare to one that I spent the money to get calibrated. BTW, using the blue, green and red filters with Avia and DVE test patterns yields close to perfect decoding of primary colors.

Finally, has any one thought about the fact that all 6178 displays have the same chip, bulb, ballast, digital board, screen etc, but not the same color values because they are done by hand. And that perhaps, just perhaps the processor and software in the display can recreate the SMPTE C and sRGB colors when the coordinates are entered correctly and not by somebody in some factory randomly? I guess that would be too easy for some, but I don't care at this moment because my display looks great

went over my settings again last night and used the SMPTE C setting for all of the cca's.

So for Red X and DRed X I have the same value as well as the valuei n the CCA (on) menu. It seems as if the Samsung automatically converts the SD to HD because my HD signals look perfect. If you look at the initial settings in the Samsung, they are also the same value for Red X and D Red X. I also used Avia and it's color saturation test to adjusted Cyan, Magenta and Yellow to get the patterns to be perfect. For the most part, the only one that change significantly was Magenta which I now have at about half the distant between my original samsung value and the SMPTE C value (like 330 for X and 170 for Y). Yellow was ok and Cyan was a little off. I got perfect tint an hue based on the test and the filters.

Hope this helps.

That's wierd. My setting were the same on the X and the D. I have heard that they are calibrated at the factory by sight and if true could mean that people are simply not going to have the same settings.

I will say this. I have already had my DMD and digital board replaced (worked for 3 hours before the blinking lights) and Samsung had to get the replacement boards from Korea so nobody had touched the settings until I went in

Try playing with the vertical setting in the first menu. The red box should be centered so that top and bootm and left and right are the same distance from the edge

To anyone who wants to shut off the DNIE processing (i.e the artificial enhancements) All you have to do is turn off all of the items on the left side of that start with SNI_

After I turned them all off, shut off the TV, powered it back up and turned on the DNIE Demo and there was no difference between the two sides