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Just what's inside a Mits 1080p DLP? - Page 2  

post #31 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill
If fan noise proves to be a problem, would it be reasonable to dampen it in some way, e.g., by building a styrofoam (or something better) 'box' around the fab vent (without obstrucing the air flow)? Any references to where this might be discussed?
You have the extended warranty right? then unplug the fan... no more problem... :p :eek:
I only wish I could hear the fan... too much other room noise...
post #32 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by sbessel
You have the extended warranty right? then unplug the fan... no more problem... :p :eek:
I only wish I could hear the fan... too much other room noise...
A wicked suggestion! No, I don't have the SET yet, but will get the ex warranty with it. I'm waiting to see the 73" one, and before making a final choice I want to compare it to the Sammy 71". At present I'm leaning toward the Mits, though I feel a bit disloyal since the hlp6163 I have has been such a nice set!
post #33 of 59
Very good information. I was looking for a picture of the "wobulation" mirror that was supposedly in Figure 1-9. Did I miss this figure or was it not posted?
post #34 of 59
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I was looking for a picture of the "wobulation" mirror that was supposedly in Figure 1-9. Did I miss this figure
That makes two of us. Just what "figure 1-9" are you referring to?
post #35 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce
That makes two of us. Just what "figure 1-9" are you referring to?
It is mentioned in the attachment "1080 explained.jpg".
(attachmentid=42688) (sorry, won't let me post URL's yet)

It's also mentioned in "Dark detailer description.jpg".
(attachmentid=42726)

Figures 1-10 and 1-11 followed that, just no 1-9.
post #36 of 59
Thread Starter 
Fig. 1-9 is this;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...chmentid=42693

No pic of the 'wobulation mirror'.
post #37 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowchip
There is no OK when changing these settings. I went to the G-Link selection to see the options and found there was Off or On. As soon as you select and change, it is set. Nothing happened with the G-Link, so I went to the Direct Key Mode and changed that to On. bad idea! Lost all of my channels that were memorized. Had to change it back to Off and then let the TV relearn the channels again.

Turning ON the direct key mode makes certain keys on the remote act like 1 key access to various sections of the service menu. I assume its used for the factory.
post #38 of 59
Thread Starter 
Four items;

There is a difference between the non 'PC' and 'PC' mode on the 2nd HDMI input. Try your HTPC with it set in NetCommand both ways.

The power consumption when the set is OFF is around 70 watts (.6 amp). It was measured with a DVM and confirmed by a Mits engineer.
Remember that durning the next 'brownout'.

The CC fan cycles on and off (5" on and 5-10" off) when the set is OFF. Last year it ran 24/7. Next year, maybe only when a CC is inserted (info from a Mits engineer).

Analog SD material (OTA, cable, DVD, tape) in what SHOULD be normal mode (actually called 'narrow') 2 1/2 inces of the width of the image is cut off (on a 52" set)! :mad:
Mits refuses do do anything about it unless enough people complain.
post #39 of 59
As to fan noise, I have not had any issue yet with the noise but my set has not been
pushed back to the wall yet as I'm waiting on my Dish box to be installed this afternoon...

But, with the set out in the open the fan noise is just not an issue... so I'm kinda wondering if I will hear it once the TV is pushed back to the wall and if the noise shows it
may be because the noise is bounching off of the wall... so with this in mind it may be an
easy fix to just put a sound deadener behind the TV on the wall.. like a sheet of foam
that would absorb the fan sounds and not let it bounce..

just a thought
post #40 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dixter
As to fan noise, I have not had any issue yet with the noise but my set has not been
pushed back to the wall yet as I'm waiting on my Dish box to be installed this afternoon...

But, with the set out in the open the fan noise is just not an issue... so I'm kinda wondering if I will hear it once the TV is pushed back to the wall and if the noise shows it
may be because the noise is bounching off of the wall... so with this in mind it may be an
easy fix to just put a sound deadener behind the TV on the wall.. like a sheet of foam
that would absorb the fan sounds and not let it bounce..

just a thought
Sounds like an excellent idea; it's what I'm planning to do (when my 73727 finally gets here!) if the fan noise is noticeable. In reading some of the 'room treatment' threads, it seems that fiberglass is the most effective sound absorber; I'm sure I have some of this in the basement left over from when we had our heating ducts re-wrapped. Will just stick a piece on the wall behind the fan exhaust area.
post #41 of 59
Thread Starter 
This is a update of what ISN'T in the manual.

Two issues that should be known;
1. Power comsumption when OFF is .6 amp (65 watts) basically doing nothing,
2. Analog SD 4x3 material gets the sides cut off. You are watching a what is more a 3.5x3 picture, NOT a 4x3. Digital 4x3 material is not affected


There are other patterns that aren't shown. A total of 14 patterns (some varations of others) are available just by stepping through using the FWD or REW buttons on the remote while in the "fmt" menu.
post #42 of 59
Thread Starter 
Overscan in two patterns;
LL
LL
post #43 of 59
Thread Starter 
Color bar pattern (sorriest bars I have ever seen and I'm not sure why the I & Q boxes are at such a high level),
Horizontal RGB & white ramps;
LL
LL
post #44 of 59
Thread Starter 
Not quite sure what these are for especially the 2nd pattern. The first appears to be for progressive/interlace testing or maybe chroma delay.
I'm open on the 2nd. Any ISF guy out there want to chime in here?
LL
LL
post #45 of 59
Thread Starter 
Grey scale,
Focus (in cyan and green also),
Black, white border w/ a centert cross;
LL
LL
LL
post #46 of 59
Thread Starter 
There are also;

4 full field patterns; white, blue, 20% black & 0% black.
Pass through, so you can see the actual input or an external generator.
post #47 of 59
Thread Starter 
The adjustments in the 'Doubler' screen are;

1446 CON max__255
1441 BRTcen___112
1446 COLcen___140
1447 TNTcen___124

The adjustments in the "fmt" screen are;

1. HPOS 32778
2. VPOS ___ 9
3. GGH ___925
4. GRH __1024
5. GBH ___997
6. GGL ___789
7. GRL __1024
8. GBL ___654
9. BMG _____0
10. BMR ____0
11. BMB ____0
12. IDL ___220
13. DBK ____1
14. STR ____2
15. SP _____1

These settings probably will vary from set to set. I just included them for reference.

If you notice with the 3rd letter on items three through eight, there is a 'L' or a 'H'. That is for either the Low temperature or the High temperature setting. You can't adjust both at the same time. It has to be changed before you enter the SM.
post #48 of 59
Thread Starter 
Be sure to give the set enough warm up time. At least 30 minutes.
post #49 of 59
videobruce, thanks for posting all the links above on the new Mit's.....it has helped explain a lot of things.......do you have a basic link or web site, where we can print out or view the full source at one time? It's sort of hard piecing the parts together.
post #50 of 59
If you have problems in slow channel change make sure you have the TV guide in the lock position when it has downloaded all information.
post #51 of 59
Thread Starter 
Quote:
do you have a basic link or web site, where we can print out or view the full source at one time? It's sort of hard piecing the parts together.
No.
You can get the SM in CD form direct from Mits Parts for around $50 delivered. As far as piecing the parts together, it could be worse, you could be me trying to pull them apart from a PDF file and trying to make some sense of all if it. :( ;)
post #52 of 59
videobruce, those settings you posted, will they give me a better picture?
post #53 of 59
A rat on a treadmill to turn the color wheel. If you start seeing more rainbows than usual, get a new rat or maybe give the rat that shipped with the TV some steroids.
post #54 of 59
I am kind of concerned (deal breaker ?) about the power consumption of 70w when set is off, (fire hazard and energy star award)
What is being powered, if no cable card is being used? All that should be powered is just the remote power on sensor.
Sounds like the fan problem of last year may be improved somewhat but still not as good as some of the other sets?
I compared this to an SXRD and found the pictures simular in pq, very slight edge to SXRD, silent fan, but I hate the side speakers on the SXRD.
post #55 of 59
Thread Starter 
Quote:
those settings you posted, will they give me a better picture?
Those were just the default numbers from my set. I just posted them for reference.
Quote:
I am kind of concerned (deal breaker ?) about the power consumption of 70w when set is off, (fire hazard
I'm glad someone else is other than me. It's ridiculous for a set to be designed that way. If you aren't using the 'buggy' TV Guide 'bloat' (probably designed by M$) why should half the chassis be live? It would of been along with the 'narrow' SD mode :mad: had I known about it before hand.
Quote:
What is being powered, if no cable card is being used?
Apparently almost everything other than the DMD device and lamp. The receiver is active for TV Guide updates and for channel changes. I had channels added on cable (PPV) that became active afterwards. I had to delete them the next day. Problem is you can't delete the whole channel group, you have to delete EVERY sub-channel separately! :confused:

I wouldn't bother with the 'other' name for half this price. ;)
post #56 of 59
Videobruce:
Thanks for the reply,

Curious to know if you turned off your TV Guide option, what current do you draw?

I guessing that this is a software turn off and will have little effect on power usage. :(

If this is the case it looks like a Sony or JVC 1080p instead.
post #57 of 59
Thread Starter 
I never enabled that 'bloated' VD Guide. I read about to many problems slowing down the channel change. It's slow enough on all these sets as it is. The chassis is still sucking up current one way or the other unfortunately.
If Mits would give you some kind of power saver option to shut the rest of the set down (the way it should be) if you choose not to use that feature, it wouldn't be as bad.
The same for JVC not giving you a lower lamp output option that Toshiba does.

As far as the power comsumption, I partly solved it by installing a switched in-line cord for the TV. I just turn it off after I give the set the one minute shut-down time. Same for powering it up. It taked about one minute to boot-up. After the LED stops flashing, I turn it on. No problems. I don't need another clock to set either.
post #58 of 59
I read through this thread and saw info on positioning adjustments, and rotation & keystone, but nothing jumped out for pincushion. Did I miss it, or is it not service modifiable?
post #59 of 59
Thread Starter 
No adjustments I saw.
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