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>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 49

post #1441 of 5405
Miller

I can see no difference between componebts and HDMI when using my satellite receiver. My guess is that you won't see it on the cablebox either. The only downside in using components with a cablebox is a possible limitation in the future to 480 I/P when and if they decide to enforce highdef on HDMI only. I personally don't think we will see it soon.

sergio
post #1442 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

Miller

I can see no difference between componebts and HDMI when using my satellite receiver. My guess is that you won't see it on the cablebox either. The only downside in using components with a cablebox is a possible limitation in the future to 480 I/P when and if they decide to enforce highdef on HDMI only. I personally don't think we will see it soon. sergio

Sergio, Thanks much for the info. This morning I got motivated to try things out also connected the Comcast cable box via Component; to my eye it looks as good as over HDMI, just as you report. So I think will follow my option (2) described above, i.e., forget about an HDMI switch.
post #1443 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

Question about using a HDMI switch.


1) Get an HDMI switch (can get one for only ~ $40) and connect both the stb and the dvd player to HDMI-1.


What HDMI switch were you looking at for $40.00??? I was looking at this one, which also upcoverts and converts component to HDMI

HDMI Switch

and

More Info

Has anyone seen or heard of this particular unit before??

Kipp
post #1444 of 5405
I have noticed the Mit's web undergoing some very minor changes..........for example the 32" and 37" LCD panel's just released have been removed from the market? And the line up on the mircro-displays has reduced the number of models.........and some of the product details have been changed or "updated" slightly......................have no idea what any of that means.........................could it mean they are going to make TV's with tuners that work?
post #1445 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kipp K. View Post

What HDMI switch were you looking at for $40.00??? I was looking at this one, which also upcoverts and converts component to HDMI

HDMI Switch

and

More Info

Has anyone seen or heard of this particular unit before??

Kipp

The Markertek (google it) is a 2x1 HDMI switch: 2 HDMI inputs to it, 1 out. It does not have a remote; one must throw a toggle switch to switch between the 2 inputs. But since I would sit it on top of my dvd player--and I have to get up and go to the player to put in, and take out, the dvd--it would be no inconveniece to flip the switch at the same time. The price is $39. The Gefen switch is the one that is most popularly referred to, and I'm sure it is fine; but it costs more than $200. From the reports I've read, the Markertek works just fine.

However, I did connect my Comcast 6412 by Component cables yesterday, and I find the PQ to be just as good as with the HDMI connection. So I'm going to forget the HDMI switch (at least for the present) and connect everything I have as follows: HDMI-1 is for the Pio DVD player, HDMI-2 is for my Mac laptop, Component-1 is for the cable stb, and ANT-1 is for a simple antenna for OTA channels.
post #1446 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by eloser View Post

I was looking into getting a new Dell Media Center PC as well as the Mits WD62627. I know it doesn't have the VGA inputs like a Samsung, but would I be able to connect to the Dell through an optional IEEE 1394 Firewire on the Dell and be able to play the WMV-HD over that connection?

Eloser

In your post, you quoted an early post of mine which I have since partly retracted, and I want to set the record staight. Those of you who have read my subsequent posts can skip this one, because I'm just going to repeat myself for the benefit of new members who are finding it hard to wade through 49 pages of content.

First of all, if you have the time, do read the whole thread. There are gems of wisdom scattered throughout the thread, and many of the good ideas are only stated once.

Secondly, since writing that earlier post, I have settled on HDMI-2 as the input of choice for my PC. I can make all adjustments I need from the PC side, using PowerDVD Deluxe and PowerStrip, so I am content to use the Mits as a high-resolution (1864x1034) monitor rather than as a video display. DVD and HD video clip resolution is excellent.

Thirdly, I have tried one set of firewire drivers (VividLogic) and it will make your Dell Media PC an input/recording device to your Mitsubishi -- for about 60 seconds, after which your PC will lock up and you will need to reboot. To hear VividLogic tell it, there are problems with the chipset that Dell uses in its FireWire cards and problems with XP Home Media Edition, and, most serious of all, problems using the HTT (HyperThreading Technology) processors. Or is VividLogic blaming Dell, Microsoft, and Intel because its software doesn't work? I don't know who's at fault. I do know that if you buy a Dell Media PC and it doesn't talk to your Mits over Firewire, Dell will not give you any support or advice.

I saw VividLogic's drivers work for about 60 seconds, and I am still excited. Someone is going to figure out how to make this work, but when, I don't know.
post #1447 of 5405
Reporting back in after having had my 73727 for 2 weeks: I've watched a great deal of hdtv, a number of dvd's, checked out the OTA reception (primarily the local hd channels), and also my Mac laptop (coming in on HDMI-2)---and everything works beautifully. The only defects I can find are 1) the slight pincushion (the black side bar on 3x4 pictures is ~ 3/16 " wider at mid-height than it is at the top and down of the picture, and 2) various degress of lip sync (mostly on tv over Comcast). Problem (1) seems to be common to all the 70+ " dlp's (I was in Magnolia today, and it was exactly the same on the Samsung 7178) and it's quickly ignored after one first checks it out. Problem (2) seems also to be common to most all sets, and I've ordered the Felston audio delay box to settle this issue once and for all.

So I am really pleased. SD analog is not great, but I've tweaked things so that it is watchable on the seldom occasions that I want to. My visit to Magnolia today, in fact, was to see my salesman and tell him how pleased I was with the whole thing (including the very fare deal he was willing to do). (I was unsure with how I was going to like the 2-tone color of the 73727 frame, but I like it very much. My wife, in fact, thinks it is the best style of all the Mits 73" sets; she thinks the lighter colored outline makes it look less 'monllithic' than the all black frame of the 837, which I orignially thought I preferred.)
post #1448 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

After 6 days with my 73927 I can say it's a heck of a display. Some few annoying glitches, though:

-When playing back TV-DISK the disk noise is too loud. I can't hear any other noise from 14 feet but playing back recorded material sometimes the disk is really noise.

-I keep losing my settings and format on ANT-1 if when I power off the TV the input is set to another device. When I power it on and select ANT-1 it keeps the settings from the input the TV was set before last power off. Any other input looks fine, just the ANT-1 which doesn't retain previous settings. After I power on the TV I can switch inputs and everything is fine. It's just the first input change right after power on.

Everything else looks fine. My TV-Disk got locked one time only but I think I messed with fast-forwarding with the remote.

I also did my "calibration" using my DVE disk. Settings were way off and here are my current one:

-Natural mode
-Contrast at 25
-Brightness at 41
-Color at 30
-Tint at 22 (surprise)
-Sharpness at 8
-RED at 26
-Green at 35
-All other colors at 31

With this settings I finally managed to get a decent skin tone and picture is now excellent.

I am using the same settings for HD viewing with the exception of contrast that I set at 20 instead of 25. The most important is the new color balance, specially the RED.

Sergio

Slimoli,

Are you watching @ color temp "high" or "low"? Thanks. I am stuck between the near your settings...
post #1449 of 5405
Low. The high setting makes the picture bluish and whites look like silver. Low works better but is nor perfect. I am now waiting for the replacement set to arrive on Monday and in few weeks I intend to have it ISF calibrated. We can change color saturation individually but I suspect that the gray scale and color gain also needs to be changed.

Sergio
post #1450 of 5405
I'm finding it useful to set up two separate settings for cable tv, one for SD channels and another for HD channels. I do this by using the 'Mode' setting: 'Natural' Mode for HD, and 'Bright' Mode for SD channels. Color Temp is set to 'Low' for both, and the settings that change automatically with the Mode are

Brightness: 51 in 'Bright' Mode (for SD), 28 in 'Natural' Mode (for HD)

Contrast: 28 in 'Bright' Mode (for SD), 55 in 'Natural' Mode (for HD)

The other settings I use, which are the same for both Modes are

Sharp Edge: off
Deep Field Imager: offf
Video Noise: Standard
Sharpness: 10
Tint: 40
Color: 22
Perfect Color: Red = 26, Green = 48, all others = 31.

I do find wide latitude, though, in some of these settings. So I, too, will be having an ISF done (by Seth Schaibel, who lives here in the Bay Area). Since Seth will be busy with the CES in Las Vegas, though, this won't happen until the latter part of January, which is probably not bad, since it will give me time to really settle in on the inputs, etc., that I will be using.

BTW, I find it very easy to make the video settings for the DVD input, because DVE is quite precise. The settings that are good for the DVD player, however, are quite different than those for the Comcast cable input, and there is nothing one has to go on to make the video settings for the latter.
post #1451 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by cabernet View Post

Eloser

In your post, you quoted an early post of mine which I have since partly retracted, and I want to set the record staight. Those of you who have read my subsequent posts can skip this one, because I'm just going to repeat myself for the benefit of new members who are finding it hard to wade through 49 pages of content.

First of all, if you have the time, do read the whole thread. There are gems of wisdom scattered throughout the thread, and many of the good ideas are only stated once.

Secondly, since writing that earlier post, I have settled on HDMI-2 as the input of choice for my PC. I can make all adjustments I need from the PC side, using PowerDVD Deluxe and PowerStrip, so I am content to use the Mits as a high-resolution (1864x1034) monitor rather than as a video display. DVD and HD video clip resolution is excellent.

Thirdly, I have tried one set of firewire drivers (VividLogic) and it will make your Dell Media PC an input/recording device to your Mitsubishi -- for about 60 seconds, after which your PC will lock up and you will need to reboot. To hear VividLogic tell it, there are problems with the chipset that Dell uses in its FireWire cards and problems with XP Home Media Edition, and, most serious of all, problems using the HTT (HyperThreading Technology) processors. Or is VividLogic blaming Dell, Microsoft, and Intel because its software doesn't work? I don't know who's at fault. I do know that if you buy a Dell Media PC and it doesn't talk to your Mits over Firewire, Dell will not give you any support or advice.

I saw VividLogic's drivers work for about 60 seconds, and I am still excited. Someone is going to figure out how to make this work, but when, I don't know.

Cabernet,

I appreciate the response and the advice. I will be settling on a 1080P display in the next couple of weeks. I really like the Mits but have also been looking into the Toshiba and Samsung DLP's. I might be getting a pretty good deal on the Mits so I am leaning more towards that model, but what did concern me was the lack of a 1080P input on the WD62627/628.

Thanks again,

Eric
post #1452 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

I'm finding it useful to set up two separate settings for cable tv, one for SD channels and another for HD channels. I do this by using the 'Mode' setting: 'Natural' Mode for HD, and 'Bright' Mode for SD channels. Color Temp is set to 'Low' for both.

I do this too. However, my settings are the opposite. Bright for HD and natural for SD. Color temp on low too.
post #1453 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waboman View Post

I do this too. However, my settings are the opposite. Bright for HD and natural for SD. Color temp on low too.

Interesting. As I said, I do find wide latitude in the settings I come up with (which is why I'm ultimately going to get an ISF). But for SD analog channels, I do find it better to use 'Bright' Mode, and to turn Contrast way down. But I'm sure this is not unique, as you have found.
post #1454 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

Interesting. As I said, I do find wide latitude in the settings I come up with (which is why I'm ultimately going to get an ISF). But for SD analog channels, I do find it better to use 'Bright' Mode, and to turn Contrast way down. But I'm sure this is not unique, as you have found.


On SD channels in bright mode, I find way too much background noise. Even with other settings turned down. In natural mode I find the SD channels much more pleasing. On the other hand, HD in bright mode seems to *pop* off the screen. IMHO.
post #1455 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waboman View Post

On SD channels in bright mode, I find way too much background noise. Even with other settings turned down. In natural mode I find the SD channels much more pleasing. On the other hand, HD in bright mode seems to *pop* off the screen. IMHO.

I will certainly give your suggestions a try out!
post #1456 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

I will certainly give your suggestions a try out!


Let me know what you think. I'm always trying to tweak this and the more suggestions the better.
post #1457 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

I'm finding it useful to set up two separate settings for cable tv, one for SD channels and another for HD channels. I do this by using the 'Mode' setting: 'Natural' Mode for HD, and 'Bright' Mode for SD channels. Color Temp is set to 'Low' for both, and the settings that change automatically with the Mode are

Brightness: 51 in 'Bright' Mode (for SD), 28 in 'Natural' Mode (for HD)

Contrast: 28 in 'Bright' Mode (for SD), 55 in 'Natural' Mode (for HD)

The other settings I use, which are the same for both Modes are

Sharp Edge: off
Deep Field Imager: offf
Video Noise: Standard
Sharpness: 10
Tint: 40
Color: 22
Perfect Color: Red = 26, Green = 48, all others = 31.

I do find wide latitude, though, in some of these settings. So I, too, will be having an ISF done (by Seth Schaibel, who lives here in the Bay Area). Since Seth will be busy with the CES in Las Vegas, though, this won't happen until the latter part of January, which is probably not bad, since it will give me time to really settle in on the inputs, etc., that I will be using.

BTW, I find it very easy to make the video settings for the DVD input, because DVE is quite precise. The settings that are good for the DVD player, however, are quite different than those for the Comcast cable input, and there is nothing one has to go on to make the video settings for the latter.


that is some good info. I'll have to try this. Anything to make SD look better!
post #1458 of 5405
Good discussion guys.

Miller, my color settings is very similar to yours. It seems that red should be turned down and green raised a little as a rule.

I don't like the "bright mode". Makes the picture vivid but introduces some noise. I use natural only.
The weakest link on the Mitsu is the tuner. When I use a cheap pioneer DVD recorder tuner and feed a component signal the picture improves 60%.

Sergio
post #1459 of 5405
I viewed Polar Express via my Denon DVD player and noticed a ton of distinct color layers on Chapter 2 when the boy is resting on his pillow. I assume its the DVD player and NOT the TV???? Heading to pick up the the Pioneer 79Aavi to resolve issue. Thoughts?
post #1460 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by brenzo View Post

I viewed Polar Express via my Denon DVD player and noticed a ton of distinct color layers on Chapter 2 when the boy is resting on his pillow. I assume its the DVD player and NOT the TV???? Heading to pick up the the Pioneer 79Aavi to resolve issue. Thoughts?

The denon's (with the Faroudja chip) do give some degree of MB'ing with dlp's, and Mits in particular, I believe. That's the reason I swapped a Denon 2910 for a Pio 59avi, and I've been very pleased. And I sure you will be also with a 79avi.
post #1461 of 5405
Got my replacement 73927 this morning. No major changes but it seems that tuner-1 is now retaining its own format and settings. Pincushion is still there (no surprise). No wheel or fan noise audible from 12 feet, like the old one.I am using the same settings from the previous set and everything looks great. I will do another Avia calibration just in case.
post #1462 of 5405
Tuner-1 still doesn't keep the settings as it should. This must be a software glitch and not anything with the hardware. I change settings on tuner-1, switch to satellite input (different settings) , power off the TV. When i turn the tv on again the satellite input is OK but switching back to tuner-1 the settings are the same as the satellite one. I guess I will have to live with that.

Sergio
post #1463 of 5405
I have a 62628. I've had the set for about 1 month. During that month, I've had the following happen 3 times. When the TV is turned out, the audio comes on fine. However, there is no video. Raising or lowering the volume brings the volume bar on the screen. Other remote functions work as they should. However, there is no picture. I've tried switches sources from the Tivo (connected via component), to the DVD (HDMI) to the xbox (component) to the OTA antenna. Power cycling the TV (unplugging it) has resolved the problem all three times. Is anyone else experiencing this.

Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot. Its an intermittent problem so I'm not sure how to get Mitsu service involved.
post #1464 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

The denon's (with the Faroudja chip) do give some degree of MB'ing with dlp's, and Mits in particular, I believe. That's the reason I swapped a Denon 2910 for a Pio 59avi, and I've been very pleased. And I sure you will be also with a 79avi.

millerwill, have you watched Polar Express with your 59AVi? I switched a Denon 1920 for my new 59AVi. DVD's are absolutely unbelievable BUT I did notice the color layering he mentions when the boy is laying in bed with his head on the pillow. I've watched probably 10 movies since I got the 59 and this was the first time I saw this. Could it be the DVD?
post #1465 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad LS1 View Post

millerwill, have you watched Polar Express with your 59AVi? I switched a Denon 1920 for my new 59AVi. DVD's are absolutely unbelievable BUT I did notice the color layering he mentions when the boy is laying in bed with his head on the pillow. I've watched probably 10 movies since I got the 59 and this was the first time I saw this. Could it be the DVD?

Sorry, I haven't seen that one.
post #1466 of 5405
I'm looking to get the article mentioned on a different thread...but maybe y'all can give me the shortcut....

does anyone know if the 1080p Mits sets "properly" de-interlace 1080 source material as per said article?

(sorry...don't have the link handy...but it's recent...)
post #1467 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by alicht View Post

I have a 62628. I've had the set for about 1 month. During that month, I've had the following happen 3 times. When the TV is turned out, the audio comes on fine. However, there is no video. Raising or lowering the volume brings the volume bar on the screen. Other remote functions work as they should. However, there is no picture. I've tried switches sources from the Tivo (connected via component), to the DVD (HDMI) to the xbox (component) to the OTA antenna. Power cycling the TV (unplugging it) has resolved the problem all three times. Is anyone else experiencing this.

Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot. Its an intermittent problem so I'm not sure how to get Mitsu service involved.

I had exactly the same problem with my 73927. Since my unit was still in the return period I called the store and had it replaced today. The description of your problem matches 100% with what happened with my set. I am starting to think this can be a software/firmware problem that affects all the new Mitsus 1080P. One thing that I noticed when this "sound and no video" problem occurred is that the latest command to the TV was a power on with tunning to a channel on tuner-1. I thought that this could also be a glitch with the HDMI since this is how I have the set connected to the HD-TIVO but in your case components is the link.

Don't get surprised if we get a software/firmware update soon.

Sergio
post #1468 of 5405
I've never experienced this problem (at least not yet!).
post #1469 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad LS1 View Post

millerwill, have you watched Polar Express with your 59AVi? I switched a Denon 1920 for my new 59AVi. DVD's are absolutely unbelievable BUT I did notice the color layering he mentions when the boy is laying in bed with his head on the pillow. I've watched probably 10 movies since I got the 59 and this was the first time I saw this. Could it be the DVD?

I hooked up my new 79avi yesterday and noticed a significant improvement during the Polar Express scene I mentioned in my previous post. There is still slight layering (i.e. macro blocking??) to the left of the boys head while he is on his pillow, but not nearly as bad as with the Denon...in fact it is almost negligible. I am happy with the improvement...but it was an expensive $900 improvement. Getting my 827 ISF calibrated Friday...I will let you know how it goes. Thanks.
post #1470 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

I've never experienced this problem (at least not yet!).


Got my first "sound and no picture" with my replacement set today. Only way to fix it is to unplug and plug the TV again. Reminds me of the Windows 3.1 good ole days.

Ok, my first set had some problems and the new one has the same ones. Conclusion: Serious software/firmware bugs. I don't recommend this unit to friends anymore.

Sergio
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