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>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 52

post #1531 of 5405
Hi everyone, new member. Just got the Spider STV100 and calibrated the big guy. I'll tell you it looks good. Just doesn't give you the advance settings:

Magenta
Red
Yellow
Green
Cyan
Blue

Any one try the advance settings for this TV?
post #1532 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by snuba View Post

sure, i'll add as much info as I can find.

if there are any other users who want to post their video settings, I'll add them to the list.

RGrim or anybody have any more info about the direct digital passthrough for HDMI that was mentioned a few posts back? Is it significant at all?

The Mits still does the whole D-A-D conversion it did earlier, if that's what you mean.

Also, I've fiddled with my cable settings again and found what I think might very well be my final settings, only slightly changed from what I had earlier:

Contrast: 30
Brightness: 41
Color: 28
Tint: 25

It looks stunning, but what's good for me could be bad for you. At least none of these changes are permanent, so feel free to fiddle! (say that 3 times)

Quote:
Originally Posted by RGrim View Post

Here is the link.

http://www.***************.com/htsth...e/1#Post768345

Is it in bad taste to ask people who have had their sets calibrated what the settings are? On one hand, it's your set and settings are only part of the calibration equation. On the other hand, it could be construed as giving away trade secrets that people would pay for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris03053 View Post

Hi everyone, new member. Just got the Spider STV100 and calibrated the big guy. I'll tell you it looks good. Just doesn't give you the advance settings:

Magenta
Red
Yellow
Green
Cyan
Blue

Any one try the advance settings for this TV?

This is the thread for Mits DLPs, not LCOSes. Your model doesn't have the Perfect Color feature.
post #1533 of 5405
/Users/miller/Desktop/P1000886 2.jpg

OK, I'm trying to send a picture. If it works, I'll say some things about it.

OK, it didn't work! I've got a few jpg pics on my desktop; how to I transfer them over to this note?
post #1534 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by clangro View Post

The Mits still does the whole D-A-D conversion it did earlier, if that's what you mean.

Also, I've fiddled with my cable settings again and found what I think might very well be my final settings, only slightly changed from what I had earlier:

Contrast: 30
Brightness: 41
Color: 28
Tint: 25

It looks stunning, but what's good for me could be bad for you. At least none of these changes are permanent, so feel free to fiddle! (say that 3 times)



Is it in bad taste to ask people who have had their sets calibrated what the settings are? On one hand, it's your set and settings are only part of the calibration equation. On the other hand, it could be construed as giving away trade secrets that people would pay for.



This is the thread for Mits DLPs, not LCOSes. Your model doesn't have the Perfect Color feature.

What do you mean it doesn't have "Perfect Color feature"?
post #1535 of 5405
OK, so my previous settings were based on the "A Video Standard" laserdisc and not on DVD. After getting a copy of Digital Video Essentials, and an extensive amount of wrangling with badly designed output adjustments on the DVD player itself, I was able to get the DVD player outputting everything from 0 IRE to super-white, which allowed me to adjust the TV properly (using the user controls only, as I do not yet have my service manual.)

Since DVE came with R, G, and B color filters, it was possible to assess how accurate the color primaries were with the different combinations of "bright/natural" and color temperature settings. I discovered that green accuracy for the secondaries was MUCH better in "Bright/Low" mode than in "Natural/Low." I suspect that my perception of that was why I initially decided to go with "Bright/Low" until I was talked out of it here.

Adjusting color was much easier once I got to that point, because most of the colors were already very close. I also found that the TV could handle pushing the contrast very high. Here are where my settings ended up:

contrast 63
brightness 43
color 35
tint 31
sharpness 0
Bright/Low

Magenta 40
Red 29
Yellow 27
Green 38
Cyan 31
Blue 31

This produces really great results for both DVDs and HD signals. Regular cable doesn't look that great but it's watchable.

-- Mark
post #1536 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by sirfergus View Post

I am looking to purchase a Mits DLP and after reading the great information passed along in the forum I still have a few questions. This will be my first HD TV and I will probally keep it for many years.
I live at least 15 - 20 miles from any over the air signal, so I don't believe I will be able to receive HD from an antenna and will probably have to use my Cox Cable (Baton Rogue, LA) for any HD signal. I am trying to make up my mind on 3 units, the 62628, 62827, the 62927, price of course being the issue.

1st. I am using a Moto DCT 6412 HD/DVR. I believe I can get the cable card, will I be able to use the DVR in the 827/927 to record shows(including the HD) like I do now with the Moto 6412.

2nd. I do have 2 pc's currently using Beyond TV to record and wanted to know if the PC hook up on the 927 is worth the extra money over the 62827.

Thanks for the help.

At 15 to 20 miles from the station you are absolutely 100% close enough to receive your digital and HD channels. I am about 33 miles away from the stations here in Houston and get about 25 digital stations perfectly. OTA still has the most constant and solid PQ..........a zillion times better than cable, and still better than Sat.............no I don't get HBO, and Starz, and stuff like that...........but I do get most of the major sports in HD, and most of those at 1080.............every one that has seen it says "we can not get that on Cable or Sat - WOW" Sometimes our local stations will even broadcast ESPN-HD OTA, when the national stations due not carry it..............how cool is that. A mid level Winegard in the attic should do the trick, perfectly. Surprisingly, you will find it is "easier" to receive digital than analogue.

You can do a search on Mark Cuban (HDNet fame and Marvericks) in Dallas about all the problems with cable companies "downgrading" the cable service to "less than full 1080"...........they do this to get more channels on the cable...........Comcast does it Dallas, and it is standard practice with Time Warner in Houston.
post #1537 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_wilkins View Post

OK, so my previous settings were based on the "A Video Standard" laserdisc and not on DVD. After getting a copy of Digital Video Essentials, and an extensive amount of wrangling with badly designed output adjustments on the DVD player itself, I was able to get the DVD player outputting everything from 0 IRE to super-white, which allowed me to adjust the TV properly (using the user controls only, as I do not yet have my service manual.)

Since DVE came with R, G, and B color filters, it was possible to assess how accurate the color primaries were with the different combinations of "bright/natural" and color temperature settings. I discovered that green accuracy for the secondaries was MUCH better in "Bright/Low" mode than in "Natural/Low." I suspect that my perception of that was why I initially decided to go with "Bright/Low" until I was talked out of it here.

Adjusting color was much easier once I got to that point, because most of the colors were already very close. I also found that the TV could handle pushing the contrast very high. Here are where my settings ended up:

contrast 63
brightness 43
color 35
tint 31
sharpness 0
Bright/Low

Magenta 40
Red 29
Yellow 27
Green 38
Cyan 31
Blue 31

This produces really great results for both DVDs and HD signals. Regular cable doesn't look that great but it's watchable.

-- Mark

Mark, Thanks again for your efforts and info; will certainly try it tonight. The reason that I deferred from Bright mode before is that it was just TOO bright! And the whites tend to have a bluish tint to them. But will try it again with your above recommendations.
post #1538 of 5405
Help! I've got some pics (jpeg's on my desktop)--can someone tell me, or point me to the place that tells me how to put these into a note such as this?

OK, I found out how to do it, put my pic is too big! Now have to find a way to compress it!
post #1539 of 5405
Either a got a lemon twice (I'm in my 2nd set) or this TV has some serious software problems. Settings are not being saved as they should after power off and now every morning I need a system reset. Get sound and no picture on any input.

Spoke to a Mitsubishi rep and he actually came to my place to see the glitches in person. Engineers in California are aware of the problems and expect to send a software update soon.

The fact that only one other poster reported the problem (sound and no picture) concerns me even more. The 2 sets came from the same batch and the other guy is also in South Florida.

I relly like this set, when it works.

Sergio
post #1540 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

The reason that I deferred from Bright mode before is that it was just TOO bright! And the whites tend to have a bluish tint to them.

I believe you should be able to turn down the contrast from my settings without screwing up the other changes, until the brightness is somewhere that you're comfortable. Everything seems to respond pretty linearly to the contrast control... I just wanted to turn contrast up as far as I could without clipping the grayscale so that I could take advantage of the high inherent contrast of the light engine.

I'm not sure how much cooler the color temperature is in the Bright setting on Low than in the Natural setting. I've heard that the Natural/Low setting on these sets was coming in around 6000K, and comparing the Bright setting to my sRGB calibrated D65 computer display, it looks comparable or a touch warmer, but I can't make any promises.

-- Mark
post #1541 of 5405
I edited the document that I posted yesterday to include more info, such as what sets people have. Hope people find it useful. I will be trying most of the settings this weekend.
I deleted HoustonPerson because he no longer has a Mits set. MillerWill's info was edited, mostly because he changes his settings daily!
I listed my info first just to be complete but those are just the ones that I had set initially before any significant tweaking.
Thanks to everyone for sharing your info.
post #1542 of 5405
Thanks Snuba! I look forward to checking everyone settings out.
post #1543 of 5405
If there's anyone in California looking for the MB-73727 stands, Howards TV has them for $399. I just got mine from there Upland store and I'm very pleased.
post #1544 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

Either a got a lemon twice (I'm in my 2nd set) or this TV has some serious software problems. Settings are not being saved as they should after power off and now every morning I need a system reset. Get sound and no picture on any input.

Spoke to a Mitsubishi rep and he actually came to my place to see the glitches in person. Engineers in California are aware of the problems and expect to send a software update soon.

The fact that only one other poster reported the problem (sound and no picture) concerns me even more. The 2 sets came from the same batch and the other guy is also in South Florida.

I relly like this set, when it works.

Sergio

Slimoli,

Can you send me a PM with who you contacted at Mitsubishi . I'm having to unplug my set on a daily basis. I'm wondering if we got our sets at the same place.
post #1545 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by mark_wilkins View Post

I believe you should be able to turn down the contrast from my settings without screwing up the other changes, until the brightness is somewhere that you're comfortable. Everything seems to respond pretty linearly to the contrast control... I just wanted to turn contrast up as far as I could without clipping the grayscale so that I could take advantage of the high inherent contrast of the light engine.

I'm not sure how much cooler the color temperature is in the Bright setting on Low than in the Natural setting. I've heard that the Natural/Low setting on these sets was coming in around 6000K, and comparing the Bright setting to my sRGB calibrated D65 computer display, it looks comparable or a touch warmer, but I can't make any promises.

-- Mark

Mark, I tried your new settings, and they look fine--PROVIDED I set the mode to 'Natural' rather than 'Bright'. With 'Bright' mode things are just washed out. Maybe it's the 150 watt lamp in the 73" set.

So right now, I'm using settings that are essentially intermediate between your original and most recent ones, except for setting the mode to 'Natural'. Looks really nice: very vibrant colors (incl good greens) but natural looking. But as some snuba said above, I'm still trying different things every day!

So that snuba can bring me up to date in his chart, the items in his chart for me that have CHANGED are

Sharp = 9
PC: Mag = 41
Red = 25
Yellow = 28
Green = 36
Cyan = 26
Blue = 31
Color = 34
Bright = 41
Contr = 55
post #1546 of 5405
Well...Dave Levy with Abby Road Home Theater (515-278-5635) calibrated my 827 this afternoon. Like many of you, I have been tinkering with the settings almost daily trying to match the perfect color, contrast and temp settings, etc....After realizing I am not a professional calibrator and doing it on the fly is hard with a 73 inch screen, I decided to call Dave for help. All I have to say is WOW!!! I had no idea calibration would make such a difference with this set. I was a little disappointed with the picture out of the box, but I felt the technology was there to perfect the picture. Boy was I right. The picture is outstanding and much improved. It reaffirmed my decision to buy this set.

Dave mentioned a few things that you all should know. First, the TV color temperature runs high. Second, the blue is out of wack (professional term). Third, he could see no reason why Mits included a "bright" setting....noting this setting caused the picture to be way to blue and distorted. He also didn't understand why Mits allowed one to turn the video noise off. He noticed when VN was off it caused major problems with the picture.

He was able to access the service menu and among other things correct my Red which is said was WAY off...I think I had it down to 26-25. Dave used all is tools to adjust the settings accurately, brought the color temp down to 6500 and the RGB to 100% of target across IRE. All I know is that this means the colors are RIGHT on the money and the picture now looks AMAZING.

His conclusion was that he was VERY impressed with the Mits set and would highly recommend the unit for anyone looking for a large DLP TV. He is a CRT guy at heart and mentioned that even he was surprised at the picture quality and accuracy for such a large screen. In essence, he gave the unit 2 thumbs way up. A departure from his past DLP experiences over the years.

All I know is that the picture looks outstanding and I HIGHLY suggest everyone spend the money to make sure you get the best picture possible from this set. Trust me the Mits can deliver.... you just need to spend the money on professional ISF calibration. Small cost, major benefit. Especially since we all spent thousands of dollars for a high quality video experience.

I am extremely happy with this set and feel very comfortable and content with my purchase. Bring on the Broncos v. KC in HD Sunday. Popcorn at my place.
post #1547 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by alicht View Post

Slimoli,

Can you send me a PM with who you contacted at Mitsubishi . I'm having to unplug my set on a daily basis. I'm wondering if we got our sets at the same place.


You've got a PM. If you have a system reset on the front of the TV , just use it. You don't need to unplug it.
post #1548 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by brenzo View Post

Well...Dave Levy with Abby Road Home Theater (515-278-5635) calibrated my 827 this afternoon. Like many of you, I have been tinkering with the settings almost daily trying to match the perfect color, contrast and temp settings, etc....After realizing I am not a professional calibrator and doing it on the fly is hard with a 73 inch screen, I decided to call Dave for help. All I have to say is WOW!!! I had no idea calibration would make such a difference with this set. I was a little disappointed with the picture out of the box, but I felt the technology was there to perfect the picture. Boy was I right. The picture is outstanding and much improved. It reaffirmed my decision to buy this set.

Dave mentioned a few things that you all should know. First, the TV color temperature runs high. Second, the blue is out of wack (professional term). Third, he could see no reason why Mits included a "bright" setting....noting this setting caused the picture to be way to blue and distorted. He also didn't understand why Mits allowed one to turn the video noise off. He noticed when VN was off it caused major problems with the picture.

He was able to access the service menu and among other things correct my Red which is said was WAY off...I think I had it down to 26-25. Dave used all is tools to adjust the settings accurately, brought the color temp down to 6500 and the RGB to 100% of target across IRE. All I know is that this means the colors are RIGHT on the money and the picture now looks AMAZING.

His conclusion was that he was VERY impressed with the Mits set and would highly recommend the unit for anyone looking for a large DLP TV. He is a CRT guy at heart and mentioned that even he was surprised at the picture quality and accuracy for such a large screen. In essence, he gave the unit 2 thumbs way up. A departure from his past DLP experiences over the years.

All I know is that the picture looks outstanding and I HIGHLY suggest everyone spend the money to make sure you get the best picture possible from this set. Trust me the Mits can deliver.... you just need to spend the money on professional ISF calibration. Small cost, major benefit. Especially since we all spent thousands of dollars for a high quality video experience.

I am extremely happy with this set and feel very comfortable and content with my purchase. Bring on the Broncos v. KC in HD Sunday. Popcorn at my place.

Sounds like you had a really nice experience. Good deal!

I too, am considering a calibration for my WD-52628. My question is where did you find a calibrator in your area? I know you can find dealers in your area on the ISF website, but how do you know who has experience with Mits DLPs, and who can do a good job too? I don't want to pay $500 and have a guy look at my ****-eyed who has never touched a Mits display before. How much did it end up costing you?

I live in GA if anyone can recommend someone.
post #1549 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by brenzo View Post

Well...Dave Levy with Abby Road Home Theater (515-278-5635) calibrated my 827 this afternoon. Like many of you, I have been tinkering with the settings almost daily trying to match the perfect color, contrast and temp settings, etc....After realizing I am not a professional calibrator and doing it on the fly is hard with a 73 inch screen, I decided to call Dave for help. All I have to say is WOW!!! I had no idea calibration would make such a difference with this set. I was a little disappointed with the picture out of the box, but I felt the technology was there to perfect the picture. Boy was I right. The picture is outstanding and much improved. It reaffirmed my decision to buy this set.

Dave mentioned a few things that you all should know. First, the TV color temperature runs high. Second, the blue is out of wack (professional term). Third, he could see no reason why Mits included a "bright" setting....noting this setting caused the picture to be way to blue and distorted. He also didn't understand why Mits allowed one to turn the video noise off. He noticed when VN was off it caused major problems with the picture.

He was able to access the service menu and among other things correct my Red which is said was WAY off...I think I had it down to 26-25. Dave used all is tools to adjust the settings accurately, brought the color temp down to 6500 and the RGB to 100% of target across IRE. All I know is that this means the colors are RIGHT on the money and the picture now looks AMAZING.

His conclusion was that he was VERY impressed with the Mits set and would highly recommend the unit for anyone looking for a large DLP TV. He is a CRT guy at heart and mentioned that even he was surprised at the picture quality and accuracy for such a large screen. In essence, he gave the unit 2 thumbs way up. A departure from his past DLP experiences over the years.

All I know is that the picture looks outstanding and I HIGHLY suggest everyone spend the money to make sure you get the best picture possible from this set. Trust me the Mits can deliver.... you just need to spend the money on professional ISF calibration. Small cost, major benefit. Especially since we all spent thousands of dollars for a high quality video experience.

I am extremely happy with this set and feel very comfortable and content with my purchase. Bring on the Broncos v. KC in HD Sunday. Popcorn at my place.

I've had RPTV's calibrated by four different professional calibrators and Dave is the best. The difference that he made on my 64" Pioneer even after it had already been calibrated by another calibrator was significant. I'm not surprised by your experience.
post #1550 of 5405
It's my understading that the 52628 will not accept a true 1080P source via the HDMI inputs. Eventually, I would like to watch some of the WMVHD sources via my PC.

My question is:
If Mits decides to update their model line to allow for true 1080P acceptance through the HDMI ports, is this something that would be upgradeable on my current set, either through a firmware update or part replacement??
post #1551 of 5405
SNUBA,

You are the man! Thanks for taking the time to gather all the info and posting it for this forum. I own a 52628 and was not very happy with the PQ even with using the Avia and DVE DVDs. To be honest, I also didn't spend a lot of time with calibrating the settings for each input either, and that's entirely my fault. Anyway, for DVD, after trying out some of the user settings, the best PQ for me came about by using SD73's suggestions. I have a dark room, so I don't need to have "bright" turned on and the look of his settings is great. Cuts out a lot of the background noise. As for cable, I'm still working on it. For some reason, SD73's same settings are a little too dark for me, so I'm using MillerWill's at the moment. No matter what, a lot of the user's settings are similar when "natural" is being used; however, more importantly, your guide is making it easy for me, as well as the other members, to just sit down and enter in settings to check for likeness. Thanks again. If I have different settings for cable, I'll be sure to post them.

SCREWFACE

Quote:
Originally Posted by snuba View Post

I edited the document that I posted yesterday to include more info, such as what sets people have. Hope people find it useful. I will be trying most of the settings this weekend.
I deleted HoustonPerson because he no longer has a Mits set. MillerWill's info was edited, mostly because he changes his settings daily!
I listed my info first just to be complete but those are just the ones that I had set initially before any significant tweaking.
Thanks to everyone for sharing your info.
post #1552 of 5405
Just a little info: **************.com http://www.**************.com/category/72.html claims to have a few unspoken for MB73927 matching bases for the Mits WD73927. You can "chat" with a customer service person on line. I spoke with a guy named Mark. He said they just got a few(?) in last week. The stands apparently had some problems with paint a while back according to him. I guess ABT only has a few right now, nobody else seems to have them.
post #1553 of 5405
Transcript follows: We hope your session was productive. Below is a transcript of messages
exchanged and items sent.

Question: Do you "actually" have the Mitsubishi Matching Stand MB73927 "On Hand" or are you still waiting like everyone else for this stand to "arrive".

Ron: Do you "actually" have the Mitsubishi Matching Stand MB73927 "On Hand" or are you still waiting like everyone else for this stand to "arrive".

Your Abt representative will be with you in about 9 minutes.

[Mark Stonkus - Your Abt representative is coming online...please wait.]

Mark Stonkus: Welcome to **************.com Live Sales Support - Online Help.

Mark Stonkus: Sorry for the wait, let me check for you

Mark Stonkus: As of today we do have a couple of these left in stock

Ron: Hello, sorry I had to go to my mailbox. So you really have these...nobody else seems to. Why are the MB73727's more expensive?

Mark Stonkus: Depending which stand/tv we sell more of the better the price we get and offer to our customers

Ron: Ok, I was wondering because people on the AVS Forum site are asking why there are no Mits 927 stands yet available. I was told by Mits that they were still in production, and due out this month.

Mark Stonkus: We just received these, they have had some problems with these as because of the color issue

Ron: Yeah, I had heard there was some kind of defect. So basically they are still just now arriving?

Mark Stonkus: Correct, we just received the first shipment last week

Ron: Ok, thanks for your input Mark. There are many people waiting for these.

Mark Stonkus: We only have a few that are not spoken for at this time

Ron: Ok, thanks Mark. Cya...Ron

Mark Stonkus: Your welcome

[Ron - has disconnected]

[Mark Stonkus - user has closed this session]

----------
Mark Stonkus | **************.com | www.**************.com
post #1554 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by screwface View Post

SNUBA,
You are the man! Thanks for taking the time to gather all the info and posting it for this forum. I own a 52628 and was not very happy with the PQ even with using the Avia and DVE DVDs. To be honest, I also didn't spend a lot of time with calibrating the settings for each input either, and that's entirely my fault.
Anyway, for DVD, after trying out some of the user settings, the best PQ for me came about by using SD73's suggestions. I have a dark room, so I don't need to have "bright" turned on and the look of his settings is great. Cuts out a lot of the background noise. As for cable, I'm still working on it. For some reason, SD73's same settings are a little too dark for me, so I'm using MillerWill's at the moment. No matter what, a lot of the user's settings are similar when "natural" is being used; however, more importantly, your guide is making it easy for me, as well as the other members, to just sit down and enter in settings to check for likeness. Thanks again. If I have different settings for cable, I'll be sure to post them.
SCREWFACE

No problem. I tried out all of the settings this weekend and I agree, SD73's settings are what I liked best (although didn't try them for DVD yet). Thanks SD73. Nice work. Two things noticed:
1. My settings, except for the individual colors, had been somewhat similar to SD73's. After adjusting the colors, my picture became much clearer and crisper. Pleasant surprise! Hadn't really thought that adjusting the colors would have that effect, but I guess that just shows how much I know about calibration! The picture improvement included better blacks too. Nice.
2. Even though I like the new settings there was a bit too much red still. Not wanting to mess with the colors and my newly improved clarity, I just dialed back "Color" a bit and moved up tint a couple clicks. That helped with the reddish-ness. Not sure if that was the best way to correct, but I'll monitor and see if it works well.
Anyway, doc is updated again.
FYI, in adjusting the colors, I pretty much used every single college football game on tv on Saturday for reference along with HD recordings of Lost (lots of detail), Invasion (a lot of blacks/dark scenes), and Desperate Housewives (lots of bold color). The settings worked well across the board.
post #1555 of 5405
Here is a picture of my 73727, on Salamander racks that will accept a large center channel, per my previous post.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphot.../17943/cat/503
post #1556 of 5405
Nice gear, Square.
post #1557 of 5405
I have the 73927. Anyone have a similar experience, or possibly refer to a common cause I might be overlooking? HDMI output from my 74TXVi receiver gives me a wave effect on my display, starting in the lower left corner of the screen, and progressing up and out like a stone thrown into a pond. I see this effect for all sources including DVD on component, Tivo on S-Video, and VCR on composite, and since the receiver is converting all video to HDMI for output, is does not really surprise me that I see it for all inputs.

A little more information on what I have tried, and maybe someone can suggest what is going on here.

- All inputs to the receiver regardless of type, output using the corresponding monitor output (composite in - composite out, s-video in - s-video out, component in - component out), has no interference.

- Composite and s-video sources switched through to component output has no interference.

- All sources switched through to HDMI output have interference.

- I tried three different HDMI cables, ranging from $20 - $130, same results.

- My display has multiple HDMI inputs, and it happens on both.

- HDMI sources bypassing the receiver and connected directly to the display, do NOT exhibit the interference.

- At this point, I am thinking the only other possibility is another component within my AV rack causing interference. So I get a completely different 74TXVi and set it up 4 feet from my AV rack, and test the HDMI output of the replacement receiver -- same interference pattern.

- I then got a long red extension cord and plugged the receiver into an outlet on the other side of the house to eliminate a possible grounding issue, and same problem. And here is what's worse:

I hauled another TV into the room that does not have HDMI, but does have a DVI input. I attached an HDMI-DVI cable (so this would be cable 4 in addition to the 3 HDMI cables I have already tried) from the receiver to the second TV, and NO INTERFERENCE PATTERN. Both are Mits sets, the one with interference is a WD-73927 and the other is a WS-73713. The last thing I would have expected is a problem that only manifests itself with a certain output device to a certain input device. I am not certain, but it seems that the Pioneer Elite receiver just does not like DLP's. Anyone suggest anything else?
post #1558 of 5405
Newcomer here, so go easy.
I have a few questions about my new Mits 1080p (727).
I have a section of the screen blocked by, what appears to be, a piece of paper or some other material. It takes up about 3x5 inches and if I move the TV it shakes. Very weird.
I also have a lot of other questions, but I will see if I get any responses before going into length, about my disappointment in the set.
Steve
post #1559 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOUSER View Post

Newcomer here, so go easy.
I have a few questions about my new Mits 1080p (727).
I have a section of the screen blocked by, what appears to be, a piece of paper or some other material. It takes up about 3x5 inches and if I move the TV it shakes. Very weird.
I also have a lot of other questions, but I will see if I get any responses before going into length, about my disappointment in the set.
Steve

Steve,
I have the same problem, except that it started with one piece and now I have 2 blockages, one each from the bottom left and bottom right hand corner. From an earlier post, it could be a piece of paper or some other material blocking the TV projection. Any at rate, I've asked my local to replace the 73727. It's coming tomorrow after a 10-day wait.
Be patient with this set. Originally I was disappointed with the PQ, coming from an 35" CRT to 73" DLP. However, if you follow some of these advices here, you'll find out PQ will improve.
post #1560 of 5405
Well, my service manual (in CD-ROM format) arrived. It does not directly document the color adjustments available from the service menu, but it was pretty easy to puzzle out what they were. There are definitely the tools there for a calibrator to linearize the grayscale. If only I had a color analyzer...

-- Mark
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