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>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 54

post #1591 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

I have a question for everybody:

I am in my second set (72927) with EXACTLY the same problems I had with the first one. The 2 major problems I have:

After power off the settings and format on tuner-1 (contrast, brightness...) sometimes are lost and become whatever the settings are for the last used input before the power off.

The most annoying problem, however, is the "sound and no picture". Almost every day I have to do a system reset because when I power the TV on I get no picture. The sound is fine and all the commands apparently work. I can see all the OSD information and even the guide displays fine but no picture from ANY input comes up. I tried to unhook devices using HDMI, since this was the first guess from a Mitsubishi engineer in California, to no avail. Only one other board member posted identical problem with a 62628 set and he also lives in South Florida. My TV-GUIDE has never been turned on again after a initialize and I thought the problem was over but today I had the "sound and no picture' again. I can do a system reset or unplug the TV to restore the picture but this is really annoying. I can return the set again but other brands/model is no option since my wall unit has been custom made for it. I also have to admit that I love the picture when it works.

Any suggestion?

Sergio

The two 52628's I had, had a similar problems except it was Picture with no digital sound on digital stations only................my dealer (who had already seen this problem before - buggy software again), knew the fix...............instead of doing a reset or reinitialize.............unplug the set for an hour and half, then plug it back it in................that may fix it, and save all your settings. I had to do that twice with mine when it lost sound. Worth a try maybe?
post #1592 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by scoombs View Post

The TV is flanked on the right by my main right speaker, and on the left, by my AV rack. My main left speaker is immediately to the left of the AV rack. I will try disconnecting both main speakers completely (and the center on top), and see if that makes a difference, but if it were a poor shielding issue and the magnets were causing the issue, would I not expect to see the interference on all inputs?

I moved the left and right mains, and the center from the top, and moved the TV as far as possible away from the AV rack, and same result. Service is finally coming out on Monday to look at my pincushion issue, so I will throw this into the mix as well. I think I will be bucking for a unit replacement.
post #1593 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonPerson View Post

instead of doing a reset or reinitialize.............unplug the set for an hour and half, then plug it back it in................that may fix it, and save all your settings. I had to do that twice with mine when it lost sound. Worth a try maybe?

That makes sense. As far as I know, that's the only way to restart the firmware in one of Mitsubishi's TVs (although there might be an option on the factory menu, which is not the same as the service menu, to force a firmware restart.)

The reason it requires unplugging for an hour and a half is that there are apparently parts of the U.S. that have regular brownouts and they build the TVs to retain clock settings (and keep the firmware going) across them.

Incidentally, short of a lawsuit or returning the TV, calling the customer service line regularly to check on the status of a fix for your problem is the best way to get their attention. Their two main engineering goals are to (1) sell as many TVs as possible and (2) minimize calls to the 800 number.

-- Mark
post #1594 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonPerson View Post

The two 52628's I had, had a similar problems except it was Picture with no digital sound on digital stations only................my dealer (who had already seen this problem before - buggy software again), knew the fix...............instead of doing a reset or reinitialize.............unplug the set for an hour and half, then plug it back it in................that may fix it, and save all your settings. I had to do that twice with mine when it lost sound. Worth a try maybe?

Regarding the "picture with no sound problem", it's not clear here if you're connecting from STB to TV via HDMI, then coaxial audio out to AVR. This was my setup and I lost audio intermittenly while watching HD channel. Switching to direct audio from STB to AVR (via optical line) restored sound.
Now I just forget about the HDMI sound and connect audio directly from STB. Of course this setup doesn't work if you use OTA or CC.
post #1595 of 5405
SanJose-Ty, my set up was OTA only with just one feed, to the outside antenna..........basically the software would lock out the sound, the set overall could get so overwelmed with processing it would just "poo-poo" on itself....picture would freeze at times too.....hang forever, unless you did a channel "up" and "down"
post #1596 of 5405
Something I noticed in the service manual that I don't recall seeing mentioned here is the (apparent) difference in lamp life between the 120W and the 150W lamps. It says that the lamp life warning (yellow led) comes on after 7000 hours for the 120W lamps, but after only 3500 hours for the 150W lamps. Quite a difference.
post #1597 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

My Comcast dvr (6412 III) has an HDMI connection, and I initially connected it to my 73727 HDMI to HDMI. However, because I wanted to use HDMI-2 to connect to my mac laptop, and HDMI-1 for my DVD player, I switched to using component cables to connect the Comcast stb to the 73727. To my eye, the PQ I get with the component connection is as good as the one I got with HDMI.

PS I believe these Mits sets still convert digital video input into analog to do the video processing, and then convert it back to digital for display (someone correct me if I'm wrong!); if this is the case, then it may explain why using the component (analog) input yields as good PQ as a digital (HDMI or DVI) input.

Thank you. I cant wait to try it...
post #1598 of 5405
As I've previously posted I'm getting my 52628 in a few days. This thread has been great...I've read a lot about color calibration. I understood why this was technically required with the CRT big screens but am not sure why the DLP's need it. Can anyone shed some light to a DLP newbie. I can see minir adjustments for taste but I'm missing something...

Also, I purchased mine in NJ from PC Richard (FYI, $2795 for the set itself whcih I thought was good) and purchased a 5yr extended warrantly. Would the cal be colvered under the extended warranty? I didnt read anthing about it but the warranty didn't go into such details.

Thanks,
post #1599 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by qlabdad View Post

I understood why this was technically required with the CRT big screens but am not sure why the DLP's need it. Can anyone shed some light to a DLP newbie. I can see minir adjustments for taste but I'm missing something...

DLPs need color calibration for the same reason other displays do:

* Different lamps may vary somewhat in color and definitely vary in intensity. Even a single lamp over its lifetime can vary.

* Analog video circuitry (like the input circuit for component video, for one) may vary in response.

* Alignment of various components affects geometry and in a system like a DLP projector might affect color response as well.

* Choices of white point, black point, and gamma are inherent in digital domain video processing just as they are in analog, and the manufacturer may have different preferences for these than the customer, which is why settings for these are built into the TV. (In particular, manufacturers like TVs to be too bright and too blue out of the box, because that seems to sell in stores.)

There's definitely less room for variation in a mostly digital system like a DLP projector, but there's still lots that can push the image out of whack, and that's what calibration can address.

-- Mark
post #1600 of 5405
Well, I had my 73727 ISF calibrated a few days ago, by Seth Schnaible of Santa Cruz, CA. Seth is one of the ones who wrote the book on dlp calibration, one of the real pro's in the field. He is very experienced with Samsung and also Mitsubishi (and probably others, too; he took the video of the NASA launch in the intro to DVE!)

It's really probably not NECESSARY to have ISF calibration with these sets; you can get a very good picture (as I'm sure most of you already know) with the amateur tools at our disposal (DVE, AVIA, etc.) But it was worth it to me to get the best possible PQ out of this set. The most important things, I think, are 1) getting the gray scale set 'right on', and 2) getting the Chromaticity Coordinates (for the primary R, G, B colors) properly set. These were both quite far off; no amount of User Menu adjustments will be able to fully compensate for not having points (1) and (2) set correctly using professional equipment.

Seth's calibration brought the Choromacity Coordinates right near the theoretically optimal values, and after this the 'Temperature Tracking' was very near the ideal 6500 Kelvin (within 100K) over the whole IRE range; beforehand it had been ~ 5800 K. Color tracking was also adjusted to be correct (100% +/- a few %) over the whole IRE range; beforehand , Blue had been ~ 90% (relative to Green) and Red ~ 110%.

So I'm very happy to have done this; the PQ is definitely more satisfactory. Is it necessary? Probably not; as many of you know, you can get very good results on your own. But if you are obsessive about getting the best PQ possible, then you should consider it.
post #1601 of 5405
Well finally gettingmy 73827 tomorrow between 11 and 3.
Will let you know what happens from there
post #1602 of 5405
Hey Millerwill, quick question for you. I was wondering if by chance you had the pincusuion issue? If so, did the ISF calibration correct this?
post #1603 of 5405
Millerwill, that is a good report on the ISF, particularly since it was on one of the new 1080p Mits,,,,,Assuming someday I get to go back to 1080p I will consider it, cause I would want the best PQ out of the set as well. The one thing I have noticed about these DLP sets is the big difference from set to set, even the same model number. It kind of makes you wonder why all the problems in putting these things together. Some will have very good factory calibration and others look like they completely missed that step.

The sets do not seem to hold up well to shipping, with about 80% of the Mit's coming through with excellent geometry, 10% with keystone that can easily be adjusted. and 10% with hour glass or side pincushion which is almost impossible to adjust out.

Millerwill, with the temp changed from 5800k to 6500k, does that also mean the overall all color tone is a little less warm, and more neutral and/or a full B&W image is less sepia, and more neutral gray? Thanks for the report.
post #1604 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by RGrim View Post

Hey Millerwill, quick question for you. I was wondering if by chance you had the pincusuion issue? If so, did the ISF calibration correct this?

Yes, I do have a degree of pincushion: when viewing a 3x4 picture, the black side bars on each side are ~ 3/16 " wider at mid-height than at the top and bottom. It is enough to notice if you look for it, but it's not something I can't live with--especially since there seems to be no way to eliminate it (no, ISF doesn't), and it seems to be present in all dlp's (it just shows up more in the largest sets). I went back to Magnolia after having my set a couple of weeks and looked carefully for it: it was in Mits and Sammies both in the 73" and 71" size. And of course you don't see if at all with wide screen pictures that fill the screen.
post #1605 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonPerson View Post

Millerwill, with the temp changed from 5800k to 6500k, does that also mean the overall all color tone is a little less warm, and more neutral and/or a full B&W image is less sepia, and more neutral gray? Thanks for the report.

I'm not that experienced at all the AV stuff, but yes, I do think the higher temp does reduce the overly 'rosy glow' of skin tones; makes them look more natural. And yes, a B&W picture (watched a few minutes of Gene Autry!) looks outstanding, very crisp and true 'B and W'.
post #1606 of 5405
Sergio,

I have a Directv H10 hooked up HDMI to my 73727, if i set the H10 to output Dolby Digtial over the HDMI, my audio goes mute. I must have the H10 set to PCM. Real pain as even when I am watching tv at night, I normally don't listen to audio through my AVR. I am content with the HD video. For movies, special events like NFL...etc I'll switch on the AVR and blast the room.
So my question, unlike the other connection (componet,composite) that will just output the aduio even if the H10 is set to DD, is that the way the HDMI handles it? just gives you no voice?

any help is appreciated, thanks
Peter
post #1607 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgiliber View Post

Sergio,

I have a Directv H10 hooked up HDMI to my 73727, if i set the H10 to output Dolby Digtial over the HDMI, my audio goes mute. I must have the H10 set to PCM. Real pain as even when I am watching tv at night, I normally don't listen to audio through my AVR. I am content with the HD video. For movies, special events like NFL...etc I'll switch on the AVR and blast the room.
So my question, unlike the other connection (componet,composite) that will just output the aduio even if the H10 is set to DD, is that the way the HDMI handles it? just gives you no voice?

any help is appreciated, thanks
Peter

It is not the HDMI, it's the fact that no TV can handle more than 2 audio channels. When you set your H10 to output dolby digital it sends 5.1 channels to your TV if the program is transmited in 5.1 (not all channels/programs broadcast in 5.1 and that's why sometimes you have sound and sometimes not).

The good news is that it's very easy to solve all your problems:


-Keep the HDMI link between the H10 and the 73727
-Keep the H10 setting to output dolby digital
-Run a pair of stereo RCA cables between the AUDIO-OUT on the H10 and the DVI analog Audio on the back of the 73727
-Keep you connection between the H10 and the AVR the way it is now.

When you watch TV WITHOUT the AVR the TV speakers will reproduce the sound from the H10 analog connection. Turn on the AVR and the 5.1 dolby digital will come. You will never need to put the H10 on PCM again.

Hope this can help you

Sergio
post #1608 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by millerwill View Post

Yes, I do have a degree of pincushion: when viewing a 3x4 picture, the black side bars on each side are ~ 3/16 " wider at mid-height than at the top and bottom. It is enough to notice if you look for it, but it's not something I can't live with--especially since there seems to be no way to eliminate it (no, ISF doesn't), and it seems to be present in all dlp's (it just shows up more in the largest sets). I went back to Magnolia after having my set a couple of weeks and looked carefully for it: it was in Mits and Sammies both in the 73" and 71" size. And of course you don't see if at all with wide screen pictures that fill the screen.


Hello Everyone, proud owner of a 52628 since Black Friday.
Amazing picture and no issues so far except the dreaded pincussion.

Millerwill, it's easy to see the pincussion on 3x4 even on my set.
However, I can also see it on widescreen mode. It's only noticeable when the material shows straight vertical edges (like a building or a window frame). I was hoping this was correctable but I guess I can live with it.
post #1609 of 5405
Thanks for your responses now it's clearer. I guess I need to change my mind set. I'm an engineer/product manager working for a company that makes test instruments that ship fully calibrated and warrantied for such. Spending this much money and then having to spend more to get the most out of it is counter intuitive to me. I am still learning.

I'm sure it's butied in this thread somewhere but I've read about amature cal tools. Are there any web sites or refernces for this with details on how they work and how to purchase?

Thanks again!
post #1610 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

It is not the HDMI, it's the fact that no TV can handle more than 2 audio channels. When you set your H10 to output dolby digital it sends 5.1 channels to your TV if the program is transmited in 5.1 (not all channels/programs broadcast in 5.1 and that's why sometimes you have sound and sometimes not).

The good news is that it's very easy to solve all your problems:


-Keep the HDMI link between the H10 and the 73727
-Keep the H10 setting to output dolby digital
-Run a pair of stereo RCA cables between the AUDIO-OUT on the H10 and the DVI analog Audio on the back of the 73727
-Keep you connection between the H10 and the AVR the way it is now.

When you watch TV WITHOUT the AVR the TV speakers will reproduce the sound from the H10 analog connection. Turn on the AVR and the 5.1 dolby digital will come. You will never need to put the H10 on PCM again.

Hope this can help you

Sergio

Hi Sergio,

Doesn't seem to work, if I am watching TV via HDMI it seems to want the voice from it as well. I hooked up the RCA between the first composite L/R and the DVI Analog inputs, nothing. Even tried plugging into the first composite L/R, nothing.Strange thing is, even if I switched the TV input to the first composite for video, I still got no audio until I Plugged in the video on that input at both ends. Then I had audio and vidio with the H10 set to DD but no way with watchign the HDMI interface.

Do I need to do anything special on the TV to activate the DVI audio inputs?
post #1611 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by qlabdad View Post

Thanks for your responses now it's clearer. I guess I need to change my mind set. I'm an engineer/product manager working for a company that makes test instruments that ship fully calibrated and warrantied for such. Spending this much money and then having to spend more to get the most out of it is counter intuitive to me. I am still learning.

I'm sure it's butied in this thread somewhere but I've read about amature cal tools. Are there any web sites or refernces for this with details on how they work and how to purchase?

Thanks again!

I do agree that is ridiculous that these sets aren't properly calibrated when you buy them. But I guess all the manufacturers set them as bright as possible, etc., for showroom display.

The 'amateur tools' that I was thinking of are the DVE and AVIA calibration dvd's; they are very good for making settings for your dvd player (since that is the input they are using), but don't help so much for making settings for cable, satellite, or OTA tv. But when you get your eyes used to what are good Brightness and Contrast settings on the dvd, then it is helpful in getting the tv sources also set in the correct ballpark.

The professional ISF calibrators use instruments to do this; Seth had a gadget (colorimeter, spectrophotomer, or something!) that stuck to the tv screen via a suction cup; it made readings for all colors, overall intensity, etc. I think these instruments are quite expensive. And then you also have to be in the Service Menu and know how to make the Gray Scale and Color Space adjustments.
post #1612 of 5405
Do I need to do anything special on the TV to activate the DVI audio inputs?

You just need to use the analog dvi input corresponding to the HDMI input.
post #1613 of 5405
I'd hate to change the subject on Slimoli, but I needed some clarification.

After a 3 month debate with customer service over some issues with my 52525 which included firmware upgrade and a chassis replacement, they agreed yesterday to a swap.

Since that model is no longer available, they said they would give me a 2006 model.

As I was looking at their website, and noticed the 52527 is LCD and the only DLP model that still offers MediaNet is the 52628.

Do you think they will try to pawn off an underfeatured LCD or give me the full upgrade which matches what I have now?
post #1614 of 5405
TechWonder, push them for the 52628, it has a killer PQ.
post #1615 of 5405
Thanks millerwill. I get it tomorrow and hope for the best. In fact as I was reading this thread they called to confirm the delivery. If I have any PQ problems I will pursue it through the store. I did spend a lot on an extended warranty...
post #1616 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonPerson View Post

TechWonder, push them for the 52628, it has a killer PQ.

Yeah, I AM probably going to have to fight for it. I just went to PC Richards and they had the 52627 with Media Command for $2907. I believe it was a mislabeled 628 and I wouldn't expect less from a NY retailer.

Can you or anyone else confirm this. I couldn't check the back of the TV and I don;t hink the 627 has Media Command.
post #1617 of 5405
Thread Starter 
It seems that I have been jipped on the Hard drive In my 927. It's only a 145GB. I've talked to some mit's reps and their going to try to get me the correct 250GB one. I'll keep you posted.
post #1618 of 5405
TechWonder,

Here are the details to the 52627:
http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/televis...ils.asp?id=188

and the details to the 52628:
http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/televis...ils.asp?id=190

I think you can also go online to see the manual to each one...........I don't think I really understand the term "media command"..............so I dunno?

I think both sets are almost the same except the 52628 has a little better picture processing etc. I think normally there is about $200 price difference between them.
post #1619 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechWonder View Post

Yeah, I AM probably going to have to fight for it. I just went to PC Richards and they had the 52627 with Media Command for $2907. I believe it was a mislabeled 628 and I wouldn't expect less from a NY retailer.

Can you or anyone else confirm this. I couldn't check the back of the TV and I don;t hink the 627 has Media Command.

I dont think PCRichard has the 52628 on the floor at least the one in Edison, NJ doesn't. Electronics Expo (Woodbridge) is the only store I went to that had it on the floor. I bought a 52628 at PCRichards and the 52627 on the floor was about the price you mentioned. My 52628 had to be special ordered with 2 week delivery.
post #1620 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonPerson View Post

I think you can also go online to see the manual to each one...........I don't think I really understand the term "media command"..............so I dunno?

I had to look it up too. "Media Command" is the flash memory sockets. It appears he is right, the 628 has them, the 627 doesn't.
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