>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 124

When I turn off Deep image field off it does seem to stop. I was watching alien vs preditor, PS3 Blue Ray, HDMI. But the pictures kinda washes out, looks like the contrast is too high and the blacks turn to a lighter black or dark gray. Looks crappy.

I even notices the dimming when watching the Golf turnament Sunday on an HD Channel.

Has to be more to it than just the Deep Field Image. Didn't do it the first 4 weeks I had the set.

Hi Hyabusha

How did you manage to display 1080P with your PS3 on the 73927? I tried with my XA-2 HD DVD player linked to the HDMI-2 created as a PC device and the maximum rez was 1080i. I got a msg about "not recognizing as a valid device" but everything worked fine besides no 1080P (obviously what really matters).

Thanks

Sergio

Hi Raf

Thanks. Good to know I was not doing anything wrong. Maybe it's ime to start thinking about a new TV with real 1080P. I also need to replace my Pioneer 74 receiver and get one of those new HDMI 1.3 capable. My 73927 will be on ebay soon....

Sergio

According to this site the Toshiba does output 1080p I am considering purchasing one but ONLY if it outputs to my Y65 HDMI at 1080p.

HD DVD has been on the market for almost a year now, and the quality of the format's software and previous hardware has been thoroughly analyzed by this and other sources. So I'll skip the spiel about why High Definition is better than Standard DVD. It's sharper, clearer, more colorful, less artifacty, and so forth. This we know. Instead, let's talk about how the HD-XA2 differs from the previous generation of HD DVD players. To that end, in terms of general picture quality, the XA2 is every bit the equal of the HD-A1, which is to say that it produces some really terrific HD images. But at twice the price does it show a corresponding level of improvement? Yes and no. If you're hoping for a picture that's even sharper, more detailed, and more vibrant, then you'll probably be disappointed. In all honesty, it's about the same. Rather, the new player's primary improvements are in two areas: 1080p output and playback stability.

I am not even sure if "playback stability" would be in favor of the XA-2 since there is a lot of complains about disks that don't play on the XA-2 or need to be "washed" (isn't that ridiculous?). The real reason why I bought the XA-2 is the fact that this is a tremendous SD DVD player. I still watch much more SD DVDs than Blu-Ray or HD-DVDs and the XA-2 makes a SD DVD look very very close to highdef. The picture quality of a SD DVD played through the XA-2 is better than most Directv HD-LITE movies, IMHO.

Just to avoid being off-topic, although I can't make my 73927 work in 1080P with the XA-2, it produces an excellent picture in 1080i. After I replaced my Pioneer 79AVI DVD player by the XA-2 ,I had to recalibrate the TV. I had too much red and weak greens with the 79 and now the reds are back to factory settings.

Sergio

So the 73927 hdmi inputs do not have 1080p capacity?

Yes and no. Just one of the inputs, HDMI-2, can be used at 1080P but only if you configure a "PC" device on that input. The problem with a PC device is that we are not really linking a PC to the TV and the video settings (contrast,brihtness,color) are limited. The TV must also run on "bright" mode , which make the picture worse in my view.

that's depressing, i have a 62627, but don't have anything that outputs 1080p, but the manual doesn't give any limitations on whether i can use COMP 1-3 or HDMI 1-2

Hi guys,

Quick question for the experts here, is the WD-73827 HDCP compliant?

I hooked up a new VGX-XL3 HTCP and cannot watch blu-ray because I get a message saying my system is not HDCP compliant. I know the sony VGX-XL3 is!

Any settings on the TV?

Thanks.
Cheers!

yes, the 73827 supports HDCP, do you have any other devices that require HDCP so you check if it's your particular tv or the HTPC? like a HD STB from a cable co?
if you lost your uses guide check the mitsubishi website, but i'd bet that since the VGX-XL3 is closer to the bleeding edge, it may have HDCP problems (or you might need to tinker around with the order things are turned on/connected, just because something claims HDCP compliance doesn't mean it's bullet proof, my SA8300HDDVR from my cable co used to pop up with the HDCP message every once in a while and i would have to reboot it (or sometimes even unplug it for an hour)

All -

I have owned a Mits 52631 for about 4 months and love it. This morning, however, something strange happened and I haven't been able to find any information about it.

My wife turned on the TV in the morning. The TV was on for about 5-10 minutes with no problems. Then, a message appeared on the screen that said (from my wife's memory): "Attention! TV will shut off in a few seconds. Check to see if airways are blocked". Then, as it warned, the TV shut off.

I immediately thought about operating temperature but it wasn't unusually warm in the house and nothing wasn't placed by the air vents.

Has anyone seen anything like this? Other than this, the TV has operated just fine.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

I have the same TV and experience the same issues. Evidently its becoming pandemic across the Mits DLP lines. There's a long thread at cnet.com - link below. Call Mits immediately to get the problem in their books. Before you call, unplug your TV for 20 minutes, plug it in, wait 3 minutes or more, then do a system reset (button on front). See if the problem reoccurs (it will eventually). Then you can tell Mits you've done all the steps.

I bought my 52631 before Thanksgiving and am still stunned by the picture. My 'air flow' issue started in March. They sent a tech to 'tighten' the temperature sensor connector. This was good for a few weeks then it happened again. This time they ordered a new temp sensor which was installed last week. So far so good.

If you read the cnet thread, you'll see that some people have even gotten Mits to replace the entire light engine! If you don't have an extended warranty, see if you can get one.

I also started a thread here, but responses were few and you'd have to go back a while to find it. Feel free to PM me if you need to or have questions.

http://forums.cnet.com/5208-7596_102...443607#2443607

Hi I have a Mitsi 65 inch WD-65731 ...9 months old ...for the past few weeks it keeps showing message saying "TV is shutting down...check air flow" Air flow is not blocked at all and it shuts down ...few minutes later need to turn it back on and its fine...anyone else seen this? Thanks! k

favelado, check the two posts before yours. Check the cnet link in the previous post. This problem is cropping up on many of the Mits DLP models.

I would like to see the demo mode on my y65.

How do I enable it?

Favelado,

I believe I have come up with a fix for your Television! I also purchased a 65" 1080p Mitsubishi set 9 months ago yesterday. The other day i started getting that t.v. will shutdown in a few seconds message telling you to check the airflow. I called circuit city and they put me on the line with Mitsubishi to do some pretty lame troubleshooting. Afterwards they advised circuit city that they needed someone to come out and replace some sort of thermal airflow sensor. Well the "Clown" just left after merely looking @ the serial number on the back of the t.v. and saying that he'd order the sensor and get back in about 10 business days or so. I was a bit ticked ff because by trade I'm an Aircraft Technician for American Airlines and troubleshooting 101 says that you have to at least examine the probable bad part and it's connector looking for any abvious defects. This dude did none of that thus the nickname "Clown" given to him.
Anyways... After dude left. I sprang into action with my trusty phillips screw driver and #2 bit in hand more than willing to "void my warranty" (lol). On the lower right rear of your set you will see a panel secured in place with two phillips head screws. Before you open it make sure that your set is unplugged and hasn't been on for at least an hour so you don't hurt yourself. Then remove the screws to the panel. Try to turn the screws gently so you don't leave any tool marks. Inside the panel you will see a black box with 2 silver slotted fasteners securing it in place. This is your buld housing. You may be able to remove them with your fingers if not get a slotted screw driver and loosen them. Don't worry about them backing all the way out because they are captive screws which are designed to stay with the part that they secure. once you have them loose look to your right and you will see a handle that you can use to pull the buld housing out. Now GENTLY! GENTLY! DID I SAY GENTLY? Gently pull the housing straight back towards you. Try not to tilt it in any direction, just slide it straigh out. Once you have removed it from the televison position it in your hands just as it is installed in the t.v. The bulb lens should be facing to your left. On the right side of the bulb housing you will see a filter screen Covered with a thick layer of dust. Blow all of the dust away closing your eye's or wearing safety glasses for your protection. After all traces of dust have been removed go ahead and reinstall the unit into the television, secure the back panel and flip that baby on. And I'll bet you a copy of Command & Conquer for the XBOX 360 coming out next week that your message will be gone and not return. At least until that filter clogs up again in about another 9 months. Holler back at me and let me know if this worked for you. Well I'm off to play some ghost Recon On Xbox Live. If you have a 360 Look A Brotha' up. My Gamertag is "STAINLESS"

Trust me the "Clown" just saved you time and frustration. If you read back in the thread every mits dlp is doing the message problem. I called mitsu and told them what the problem was and needed to come fix the connection to the sensor, not replace the whole light engine like they had being doing to some peoples tv. Well, my "Clown" just blew on the filter, and left. Guess what?, not even ten days later same message starts again this time I wrote mitsu emails, called, left messages, and guess what they saw things my way, the part is in and they are putting it in tomorrow. Also I have only had my 65731 since Dec 28.

Oh believe me I let him write the serial number down and order the part so he can replace it for me just in case my solution wasn't a permanent fix. So my t.v. will get the part no matter what.

Removing your lamp and blowing off the dust on the screen does not void your warranty. It is actually a user function and explains it in the owners manual.

mine hasn't done it.

Someone over at cnet suggested that there was a series of sensors that were bad. Evidently the same thermal sensor is used in all the Mits DLP models. It would be interesting to check the build dates on these to see if there is any correlation. I klnow my Mits was manufactured in Aug 06 and purchased in Nov 06.

I must be insane: I ended up trading my Samsung HL-S4666W plus a little cash for an older Mits WD-52631 (about eight months old, supposedly) a couple of weeks ago. Honestly, though, I rather like it--once I got it out of torch mode, that is. Thus far, I only have three caveats:

- the fan is actually louder than the fan on my other Mits DLP set (a one-year-old WD-52327);

- the tuner overall isn't as good as the Sammy's (or it's far less forgiving of my cable source--Verizon FiOS--one of the two); SD channels seem to look overly sharpened/enhanced even with sharpness turned down and video noise turned off, and any HD cable channel I try to watch via the tuner breaks up constantly; and

- a strange hardware-specific issue where I abruptly stop getting sound from my Toshiba HD-XA1 HD DVD player (connected via HDMI), and it usually takes a player recycle to get it to work.

Having said all that, though: HD material looks gorgeous on this set...

The reason I bought that same TV was the HD picture. When I bought mine, Circuit City had it sitting next to the new Sony SXRD of about the same size. Both were hooked up to a BluRay showing some watch documentary. The picture on the Mits was definitely better than the Sony. Even now, people come over and are stunned at the picture. Some of my wife's friends came over the other night to pick her up to go to a birthday dinner. They almost didn't leave! I had on Planet Earth and they sat there mesmerized. I was so proud!

What are you picture settings?

I believe I read somewhere on this forum that the thermal shutdown problem is because at the manufacturing stage a wire is routed directly over the lamp housing; this wire goes to the thermal shutdown unit. DUH! The wire gets hot from the lamp and shuts down the unit. The fix is to simply move the wire away from the hot lamp housing. Not a biggie, and the tech should be able to do it in a couple minutes. Try this the next time some clown shows up!

The problem can be a bad sensor or a bad connection in the connector that sits very close to the lamp housing. The connections may not have been made well at the factory or may have developed somewhat higher resistance, which would be made worse by heat and thermal cycling. Moving the connector as far from the lamp as possible is a good idea, IMO, and this is what I suggested, but it is not something that came from Mitsubishi. It is just an obvious thing to do. It seems to have worked for me so far. The wire getting hot by itself would not likely cause the system to indicate a thermal problem.

It will!