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>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 156

post #4651 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

It sounds as it is a setup issue with your Laptop. Go into Display Properties and check the settings for the External video port. Is it VGA or DVI?

Thanks Video Bruce I will give it a try tonight.
post #4652 of 5405
I would like to offer some more info on bulb life and replacements. I just had the bulb go out in my 65731 for the second time in 20 months. I had just cleaned the screen about a month and a half ago. I have been good about cleaning the carriage screen every few months. It made no difference in my case. My set is on a glass TV stand, not near the wall, and gets excellent airflow.

I do have an extended warranty and will be getting a new bulb in a few days. I have decided to purchase a backup bulb for times when I am waiting for warranty replacements. I have seen River Valley Electronis on Ebay and was wondering if anyone can give a review of their experience with them. Their auction states that their bulbs are OEM Osram and they ship for free. It would take 2 days to get once shipped.

I also saw an earlier post about Ness Electronics. I called the Des Moines store and actually caught someone on Saturday. Kim informed me that he is a wholesaler and cannot sell the bulb directly to me. He just delivered a Mits replacement bulb to my area this past Wednesday, but the local TV store does not carry the 915P049010 as a normal stock item. If I ordered a bulb Monday he could have it to the local store Tuesday. I won't know what the price is until Monday so I may want to get the one from Ebay. Any stories or reviews would be appreciated.

On a side note, Kim was well aware of the issues Mits has with short bulb life. He told me that he is selling 4000 bulbs a year. He offered some solutions to help get a few more hours of life. First clean the carriage screen regularly. I told him that I was already doing this and it did not seem to matter. He then said that some of the shops he supplies bulbs to are actually removing the narrow screen from the carriage when they replace a bulb. They have seen longer bulb life and no apparent negative affects on picture quality or functionality.

The next suggestion was a UPS. The technicians that he deals with all believe that in the event of a loss of power, the cooling fan will not run. This appears to greatly reduce overall bulb life. He made it sound like any loss of the cooling fan will shorten the life of the bulb. A thunderstorm in July could mean your bulb loses hours off its life and prematurely fails in December.

By no means do I endorse or condone any of these measures. I am not a qualified repair technician. I am just putting this out there as FYI purposes.
post #4653 of 5405
Does anyone know if the Cable Card slot supports MPEG-4?
post #4654 of 5405
It's not the CC, it's the electronics within the tuner that does the work. A CC is just a padlock (of sorts).
post #4655 of 5405
So the question should be does the MITS 65831 play MPEG-4
post #4656 of 5405
What cable companies are using or have plans to use MPEG-4?

I would be very surprised if the set had MPEG-4 decoding. And actually, decoding is after the tuner. The tuner provides the transport stream only and the decoding is done after that.
post #4657 of 5405
MPEG-4 is used for satellite xmissions. Doesn't apply here.
post #4658 of 5405
I have the Mitsubishi 65731. I love it, but I have one issue.

I just purchased an acer triple core processor computer to use with my tv as a moniter. The grpahics card is a Nvidia 8200 with HDMI. I have the computer connected to the TV via the HDMI ports and named the HDMI port Computer.

Everything works fine and looks great, as long as I have the resolution in the computer set to 1076 x 1024 or lower, basically less than HD quality (the TV format shows SXGA). When I have the resolution set on the computer to 1080p resolution with the TV showing 1080p format, the picture looks great, but the screen will kind of "pop" or cut out every 15 seconds or so.

I've tried updating all of my drivers for my graphics card and computer, played around with all of the settings, and the only thing that seems to work is when I set the resolution to lower quality. I'm hoping that someone else has had and overcome this problem. Please help...
post #4659 of 5405
Just got a 65835 from my dad a week ago as a wedding gift. so far so good, it's the nicest set i've owned. still learning the ins & outs of it.. anyone know where i can pick up a matching base on the cheap?
post #4660 of 5405
I have the Mitsubishi 65731. I love it, but I have one issue.

I just purchased an acer triple core processor computer to use with my tv as a moniter. The grpahics card is a Nvidia 8200 with HDMI. I have the computer connected to the TV via the HDMI ports and named the HDMI port Computer.

Everything works fine and looks great, as long as I have the resolution in the computer set to 1076 x 1024 or lower, basically less than HD quality (the TV format shows SXGA). When I have the resolution set on the computer to 1080p resolution with the TV showing 1080p format, the picture looks great, but the screen will kind of "pop" or cut out every 15 seconds or so.

I've tried updating all of my drivers for my graphics card and computer, played around with all of the settings, and the only thing that seems to work is when I set the resolution to lower quality. I'm hoping that someone else has had and overcome this problem. Please help...
post #4661 of 5405
I have my 57731 hooked up through the DVI port and it works fine with my 8800GTS after adjusting for the overscan. I also previously had an onboard ATI card hooked up through DVI which worked fine as well. I am not sure why you are having HDMI problems but see if switching to use the DVI port might fix it.
post #4662 of 5405
Alex66; Try 1776x1000 (or something close to this), the set is picky about acepted resolutions and your choice is too low. Also, you don't have to repeat your post one after the orginal post.

ballacheez; Mits doesn't sell any, but there are plenty of stands available. I wouldn't buy something "on the cheap". Your 'bargan' won't be any if you come home and find the set on the floor face down.

BTW, welcome the the forums.
post #4663 of 5405
regarding the WD 73927...
I have been in and out of contact with Hyabusha (sp?) and he advises me that he is able to select and get the 1080p setting from the xbox 360 display settings. Is anyone else able as well???

Thanks!
post #4664 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDaddyo View Post

regarding the WD 73927...
I have been in and out of contact with Hyabusha (sp?) and he advises me that he is able to select and get the 1080p setting from the xbox 360 display settings. Is anyone else able as well???

Thanks!

Are you not able to do this? The only xbox that can output 1080p are the ones with HDMI output. Does yours have this? Games will most likely output 720p. Which is the best setting for them. What are you trying to watch thats 1080p?
post #4665 of 5405
Yes, I do have the xbox elite with the HDMI.
I don't know if you have xbox or not but, within the Display setting you are able to select resolutions, 480p, 720p, 1081i & 1080p
For my TV, 1080p is greyed out. Hyabusha said he has the same TV as me and IS able to select 1080p. I just found out today though that he was able to do it because he has a converter.
post #4666 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by schnurmac View Post

Are you not able to do this? The only xbox that can output 1080p are the ones with HDMI output. Does yours have this? Games will most likely output 720p. Which is the best setting for them. What are you trying to watch thats 1080p?

Actually any Xbox 360 will do 1080p over vga as well, not just the hdmi versions.
post #4667 of 5405
to save confusion, this is about the Mitsubishi WD 73927 television. Yes, the xbox has the 1080p setting, but not all TV's can accept it.
post #4668 of 5405
The 73927 accepts 1080P only if :

-The VGA input is used
-The HDMI2 input is used but the device is configured as a PC.

The "PC device" should be able to output 1080P and you can't adjust some settings as you can with any other device input.

Hyabusha was successful with his gear because he also uses a scaler between the players and the display. The 73927 views the scaler as a "PC" and all the adjustments can be done .

The only thing I could manage to display 1080P was the PS3 but the result was no better than the 1080i due the lack of some adjustments (I don't have a scaler).
post #4669 of 5405
Thread Starter 
The reason I have the scaler was because you cannot "force" 1080p on the 360's display option. So the scaler will "force" all incoming signals to 1080p to the HDMI-2 Input as "PC".
post #4670 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDaddyo View Post

to save confusion, this is about the Mitsubishi WD 73927 television. Yes, the xbox has the 1080p setting, but not all TV's can accept it.

I'm sure yours is 1080p set. Then you should have no problem. I don't have an Xbox. I have a PS3 I get 1080p. My cousin brings his Xbox over once in awile he doesn't have HDMI. I get up to 1080i over component cable. I have never seen an Xbox cable with VGA. We went looking for one with it and Hdmi for his one end had to have the giant Xbox connection on one end. Never found it available.
post #4671 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by ballacheez View Post

Just got a 65835 from my dad a week ago as a wedding gift. so far so good, it's the nicest set i've owned. still learning the ins & outs of it.. anyone know where i can pick up a matching base on the cheap?

Best Buy has a wide selection available... expect to pay ~ $ 250 & up.
post #4672 of 5405
Recently I had an odd failure with my 73". While watching one evening the entire left side of the screen was covered with an open-venetian-blind like artifact plus numerous random blinking pixels. Mitsubishi diagnosed this as a failed Light Engine.

I have a four extended warranty on the set and contacted the warranty service company since it was beyond Mitsubishi's original 1 year warranty. A1, my service company, told me that Mitsubishi has recently (early 2008) extended there original 1 year warranty to 3 years for Light Engine failures. However, A1 would still send there local service rep. out to confirm that the failure is due to the Light Engine.

The local service rep. was at my home in within 36 hours where he confirmed this. He contacted Mitsubishi the same day he diagnosed the problem and Mitsubishi had parts to him the following Monday. The total repair time from my calling A1 to having my set fixed was just 9 calendar days.

I am posting this for the benefit of all owners since it seems that Mitsubishi is making a genuine effort now to address this frequent failure with the 65xxx, 73827 & 73927 series of TV's built in late 2005 and thru 2006.
post #4673 of 5405
Hmmm... almost a month. I guess it's time to bump it up...

Does anybody know whether the "VGA to HDMI" cables being sold on eBay (like the one pictured below) are likely to work for connecting a laptop's VGA port to the "VGA" HDMI port on a 62625? The TV's manual suggests that "VGA" is supported, but Wikipedia's diagram for HDMI doesn't show any of the DVI-A/I analog pins mapped to HDMI pins (not even as a secondary use).

Put another way, is there something resembling a de-facto or official standard for mapping HD15 VGA pins to pins on a HDMI connector, and does the 62625 actually implement that standard for its own "VGA" input (via the second HDMI port)? Or did Mitsubishi come up with some completely proprietary way of doing it that requires a cable that can only be purchased from them to work?

post #4674 of 5405
Wow, Never seen one of those before. I thought that VGA was analog and HDMI was a digital signal
post #4675 of 5405
DVI-D is all-digital. DVI-A had a similar formfactor, but used 4 pins above & below the horizontal bar on one side to carry the analog signal. DVI-I has the pins for DVI-D, and also has the pins for DVI-A.

As far as I can tell, there's no official mapping for DVI-A pins to a HDMI connector, even as alternate signals (which would seem to be the most sensible way for it to be implemented... kind of like how most new cell phones can temporarily repurpose the USB clock and data lines and use them to carry analog stereo audio to a pair of headphones, avoiding the need for a new jack (I think the iPhone goes a step further, and sticks a LED within view of the USB port's interior cavity, so you can even connect SPDIF via the same physical micro-USB connector using a special Apple cable, but I could be wrong about that one).

For what it's worth, I bought the cable pictured in my post above, but it doesn't work, and I'm trying to figure out at this point whether it's a configuration issue with the laptop and/or my TV, or whether it's a fundamentally lost cause that physically can't work. I deleted the HD-DVD player from NetCommand, and replaced it with a "PC" connected to the same physical port, but when I select it I just get a black screen that says "PC" if I hit the info button on the remote.

Thought: does the TV support just about any reasonable vertical and horizontal resolution that a normal multisync monitor could handle (even if it did it badly), or does it LITERALLY support ONLY timings that would be valid for TV use (1080p60, 720p60, 480p60, etc)? If it ONLY works with a few SPECIFIC timings, and you feed it an invalid signal, will it at least tell you it sees an invalid signal? Or will it just stupidly sit there in silence, giving you no clue that it IS actually seeing a signal, but it's invalid (I've learned the hard way that this TV's designers don't seem to have been very fond of useful error messages... or error messages at all, for that matter).

Alternatively, does anybody happen to know whether the Intel 945GSE is one of the chipsets capable of outputting YPrPb to the RGB pins on the VGA connector, and if it does, whether it's a capability that needs extra hardware and explicit support from the manufacturer to work, or whether it's something that can be forcibly enabled, even if the OEM doesn't support it, by using the OEM driver instead of the "official" one, then adding/changing a registry key or using a program like Powerstrip? I know SOME new computers & laptops have the ability, so you can skip the active RGB->YPrPb converter and get away with using a cheap cable like the one below... but I can't find any info one way or another about the MSI Wind itself (it's not for HTPC use... it's to let me extend the desktop onto the TV when I'm using my laptop in the living room).

post #4676 of 5405
DVI? Im looking at an HDMI to VGA cable. How does that work? I know all about DVI, my 65832 has a DVI PC input (analog or digital). It looked fantastic @ 1920/1080 but the text was to small for my eyes and viewing distance. I send it a 1280/720 signal and it showed a small image centered on the screen. I hit the aspect button on the remote and the screen read PC 720p ZOOM. The pircture was stunning with razor sharp text. It has a 1/4" border around all the way around the screen, just enough to insure ZERO overscan.

Good luck with that cable, unless VGA can output a digital signal, or HDMI can carry analog or it has an A/D converter built in somewhere Im not sure how its gonna work...
post #4677 of 5405
There are three sets of pins on a DVI port:

* One set of pins for digital video up to some resolution like 1600x1200. These are the pins most people think of when they hear "DVI". A cable that has ONLY these pins is "DVI-D"

* One set of pins for analog RGB video. Basically, the same signals that would normally be fed to an analog RGB monitor from a HD15 "VGA" port. In theory, a cable with ONLY these pins would be "DVI-A". I'd be shocked if any significant number actually existed, because...

... a cable with BOTH the first (digital) and second (analog) sets of pins would be called "DVI-I". I've seen cables that supported ONLY "DVI-D", and I own a few DVI-I cables, but I've never seen a real DVI-A cable in my life ;-)

* The third set of pins was wedged into some available space between the first set, to add more lines to carry DVI at resolutions higher than 1600x1200. As I understand it, 1920x1080 out of a plain DVI-D or DVI-I cable will "kind of/sort of" work, but only with short cable that's absolutely pristine, under the most ideal circumstances possible. Apparently, the "short cable" restriction and flakiness wasn't seen as a big deal when DVI was used only for computer monitors, because you could probably fit everyone on earth with a monitor back then that was even CAPABLE of 1920x1440 via DVI in a large McDonalds. But when 1920x1080@60fps became mainstream, "almost/mostly" wasn't good enough anymore ;-) I have no idea what cables with THESE pins are called.

As I understand it, HDMI cables were literally designed to be equivalent signal-wise to a DVI cable with both sets of digital lines. According to Wikipedia's HDMI entry, every pin in a double digital DVI cable has a corresponding HDMI pin.

Where things get sticky is when you throw analog video into the equation. According to Wikipedia, none of the HDMI pins were officially designated for analog video, even as a secondary use. However, there's no engineering reason why it couldn't be done (vis-a-vis the way headphones get analog stereo via an overloaded/repurposed USB port buffered by a special switcher chip in higher-end cell phones), and something of that nature seems to be what, in fact, Mitsubishi did with the WD62625... it has two HDMI ports, one of which is allegedly "VGA". I've interpreted that as meaning "somehow, there's a way to feed it analog RGB via some kind of cable that maps the analog RGB signals to pins on the DVI plug" -- but I'm still trying to figure out where to actually GET one of those cables (assuming the one I already bought isn't the right one, and that Mitsubishi's marketing department didn't take some outrageously deceptive liberties with the definition of "VGA" that would somehow allow them to say it supports "VGA", yet not support analog rgb).
post #4678 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by LWAldridge View Post

Recently I had an odd failure with my 73". While watching one evening the entire left side of the screen was covered with an open-venetian-blind like artifact plus numerous random blinking pixels. Mitsubishi diagnosed this as a failed Light Engine.

I have a four extended warranty on the set and contacted the warranty service company since it was beyond Mitsubishi's original 1 year warranty. A1, my service company, told me that Mitsubishi has recently (early 2008) extended there original 1 year warranty to 3 years for Light Engine failures. However, A1 would still send there local service rep. out to confirm that the failure is due to the Light Engine.

The local service rep. was at my home in within 36 hours where he confirmed this. He contacted Mitsubishi the same day he diagnosed the problem and Mitsubishi had parts to him the following Monday. The total repair time from my calling A1 to having my set fixed was just 9 calendar days.

I am posting this for the benefit of all owners since it seems that Mitsubishi is making a genuine effort now to address this frequent failure with the 65xxx, 73827 & 73927 series of TV's built in late 2005 and thru 2006.

great info! my repair for the same thing is tomorrow and is covered under my own warranty as well. sadly, it will be about a 3 week turn around. I don't have the same issues that you described. mine is I have about a 1" shadow coming from the lower left edge of the screen to about 3/4 up. either way, he said light engine.
post #4679 of 5405
The 73927 accepts 1080P only if :

-The VGA input is used
-The HDMI2 input is used but the device is configured as a PC.

The "PC device" should be able to output 1080P and you can't adjust some settings as you can with any other device input.

Maybe this is where I've been confused. What I need to do is, on the TV menu, delete my xbox setting and then go back in and "pretend" I'm setting up another pc connection?
I already have my pc running to the VGA in back.
post #4680 of 5405
Well, I found bad news and good news.

The bad news is that apparently, Mitsubishi's marketing department DID in fact pervert the conventionally-understood meaning of "VGA compatible" to mean "we can sync to VGA timing (oh, by the way... we only support DVI-D -- HD15 analog RGB isn't supported)".

Grrrrr. It's things like this that make me wish I had the cash to launch a class action suit against them for deceptive advertising, and force them to give everyone who's ever bought a TV of theirs advertised as being "VGA compatible" (but only via DVI-D) a free VGA to HDMI box as punishment. I'd love to see them squirm in court when asked to show any evidence that any commonly-understood definition of "VGA Compatible" has ever been implicitly understood as excluding actual analog RGB without a prominent disclaimer to that effect.

The good news is that apparently, my laptop DOES, in fact, have one of the new video chipsets capable of using the R, G, and B pins on the HD15 port to output Y/Pr/Pb, or composite/S-video_luma/S-video_chroma instead (allowing the use of a completely passive hd15 to YPrPb or hd15 to composite+s-video cable).

The bad news is that nobody with a MSI Wind seems to have ever actually gotten that feature to work. It appears the biggest limiting factor is the fact that unless you live in Tokyo or Hong Kong, $5 passive adapter cables aren't likely to be available in local stores, and by the time you add in the shipping on such a cable bought via mail order, an active vga-to-whatever converter on eBay ends up costing only $20 more, so nobody really wants to gamble $20-35 on a passive cable with low odds of working instead of just buying the active adapter for $60, feeding the vicious cycle. :-(

Sigh. Since it appears my VGA to HDMI cable is likely to be completely useless in its current form anyway, maybe I'll try hacking it into a passive vga->component video cable by cutting off the HDMI port and soldering RCA connectors onto the R/G/B pins...

For the record, here's a pic of the kind of cable you'd use to connect a laptop with one of the newer chipsets to a TV via composite or s-video:
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