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>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 173

post #5161 of 5405
Quote:


What is the difference between the 65737 and the 65738

A search is your friend;
http://wd-65738.org/mitsubishi-wd-65737-hdtv

Wireless (for what?),
A USB & PC input (probably VGA which is old hat),
One additional HDMI.
Depending on price difference, probably not worth it unless you need the additional HDMI input. I would also guess some other menu related gimmicks which are locked out of the set down models. (not unusual)

CNet's review was not favorable;
http://reviews.cnet.com/projection-t...ml#reviewPage1

but for ludicrous reasons;
Quote:




Editors' note (March 4, 2010): The rating on this product has been lowered because of changes in the competitive marketplace, including the release of 2010 models. The review has not otherwise been modified. Click here for more information.

If the heyday of the gigantic-screen rear-projection HDTV is over, somebody needs to tell Mitsubishi. The company is the sole remaining proprietor pushing out 60-inch-plus TVs too thick to hang on the wall and too inexpensive to merit a cameo on MTV's "Cribs."

1. Pictures and paintings are hung on a wall, not a TV (or shouldn't be, at least large ones),
2. Anything having to do with the brain dead mentality of anything connected with MTV has absolutely NO merit AFAIC.

A more truthful review seems to be here;
http://www.practical-home-theater-gu...v-reviews.html
post #5162 of 5405
Jim Miller; your problem sounds similar to someone else that just posted in another Mits thread. Do a search.
post #5163 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by neocisco View Post
Will do. I have a busy week ahead of me but I'll do this ASAP. BTW, I know it's best to not handle the lamp with bare hands so what types of gloves would be best? Latex, rubber dishwashing gloves, I'm certainly open to suggestions.
Type of glove doesn't matter as long as they don't contain oils and they keep the natural skin oils from your hands from contacting the glass on the lamp. Cotton/plastic/rubber/etc.
post #5164 of 5405
Seems like I've been smitten by the BGLOD 20 days after my extended third party warranty expired. I'll make a few calls but I'm not expecting satisfaction.

I'm not keen on investing $800 on fixing this TV after only 6 years of use. I'll just keep it until unplugging/plugging no longer works then take it to the dump.

52" or so LED/LCD will be my next TV, brand TBD, but definitely not Mitsu.

jtm
post #5165 of 5405
BGLOD??
post #5166 of 5405
BGLOD=Blinking Green Light Of Death
post #5167 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by neocisco View Post

Will do. I have a busy week ahead of me but I'll do this ASAP. BTW, I know it's best to not handle the lamp with bare hands so what types of gloves would be best? Latex, rubber dishwashing gloves, I'm certainly open to suggestions.

BTW, I replaced a lamp last week, a Philips from my usual vendor. I was really surprised to find a 3/4"x1/4" little plastic label stuck on the back of the glass body of the lamp. That's just insane. I removed it and then had to use a bit of alcohol to remove the gummy residue. Watch for that.

Besides gloves, and lamps will often come with plastic gloves, I have also used clean cotton pillowcases over my forearms. I assume you are putting a lamp into a housing. If you bought a lamp + housing you don't have to worry about gloves.
post #5168 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Miller View Post

I'm not keen on investing $800 on fixing this TV after only 6 years of use.


jtm

is $800 normal??
post #5169 of 5405
from what i gather on the other threads. $$ to send out a tech. $$ to ship back guts for repair. $$ for repair and return shipping. $$ for tech to install.

grumble...

now researching new tvs.

jim
post #5170 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Lamp time. Record the hours (Menu, 2470, then exit when done) and date when you change it out for further reference.
Post your hours when you find out,

Lamp hours were 07597. High, low or average? I bought the TV open box so a lot of the hours were from being on display in the store.

BTW, it was an easy change. The lamp was already in it's own housing so it was just a matter of switching them out.

Thanks for the help from everyone who responded, it is much appreciated.
post #5171 of 5405
OK, I'm a little worried. After installing the new lamp, after about 10 minutes I started smelling what seems like electrical burning. The TV continued working fine but, understandably, I'm concerned. When I installed the lamp the top screw in the lamp housing wouldn't start to thread but the bottom one did just fine. I pulled on the housing handle and it was secure so I figured everything was OK and reattached the cover. Is it possible the smell is just a temporary side effect of a new lamp burning brighter than what the previous one had? I'm not fond of the idea of burning out my TV so any help would be great.
post #5172 of 5405
Quote:


is $800 normal??

You mean average? On the higher side. Apparently you haven't had anything repaired in home for some time. You also don't realize what the labor rate difference between China and here. One can't live a a few dollars a day.
Quote:


Lamp hours were 07597. High, low or average?

How old? 7600 hours is a healthy figure, nothing to be unhappy about.
Quote:


after about 10 minutes I started smelling what seems like electrical burning.

Normal. Ever notice what a new vehicle exhaust system smells like in the first couple of days?
post #5173 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

How old? 7600 hours is a healthy figure, nothing to be unhappy about.

Normal. Ever notice what a new vehicle exhaust system smells like in the first couple of days?

Almost 3.5 years in home plus time on display in-store as an open box.

Nope, I've never bought a new car, only used. I looked everything over and nothing seemed to be singed. I figured it being a new lamp was the cause but I didn't want to take this lightly. Thanks for your input.
post #5174 of 5405
The other week my 65827 suddenly "lost control of color." This is difficult to describe in words but here's my best shot - the colors were suddenly "washed out" or more accurately all very distorted. It looked someone had really cranked up effects on a photo in Photoshop, there were lots of purple shades, like through an infrared filter or something. The color was also flashing or shifting, almost like a color filter was being jiggled in front of the images.

As my bulb was due for replacement (it's the second, and I got the TV Dec 05) and I had one on hand I replaced the bulb. Picture back to perfect and I put it out of my mind. Then last night the behavior repeats. I powered down, unplugged and waited a few minutes. Turned it back on and pic was fine. Watched for another 20-30 min and behavior repeats. Left the TV on as I started surfing AVS (been following this thread since I got the TV) and other places for cause. About 10 -15 min later pic snapped back to normal and stayed that way for rest of night - about 70 min.

I've looked at descriptions of light engine failure, bad ballasts and everything else but nothing seems to match my issue. Before I scrap the TV has anyone seen behavior like this? If so any conclusions as to what it was? If it's a minor repair ok buy i can't see laying out $1000 on a repair for this "old" unit. Thanks.
KB
post #5175 of 5405
My Dad has a 73" Mits DLP I think it's model 73638, he had the bulb replaced, (6 months ago) and TV worked great. Recently he purchased the 3D box and glasses to convert this model to 3D but he could not get it to work. He even bought a new Yamaha receiver that could pass a 3D signal and has HDMI 1.4. I'm not sure he changed out the HDMI from his 1.3 to a 1.4 but nothing he did could make the 3D box work through the receiver or directly to the TV. He also has a new Sony 3D bluray player, no dice on the 3D. He called an authorized Mits repair guy to come over to give the 3D unit a try. The night before the repair guy comes over my Dad's TV worked fine. The following afternoon when the repair guy shows up he takes the TV remote and all of a sudden the dreaded BGLOD=Blinking Green Light Of Death!! Coincidence? My Father thinks so as he recalls the repair guy just aimed the remote at the TV and nothing. So he tells my Father the circut board was dead and he would need to replace that for $600. Long story short, guy comes back after a week replaces the board TV works but he can't get the 3D unit to work. Next morning Dad turns on the TV and again... BGLOD=Blinking Green Light Of Death!! the guy tells him the the HDMI connected to the new Yamaha receiver is reponsible for burning out the circut board and he suggests my father connect his HT system bypassing the HDMI connection to the Mits? My Dad has a system worth several thousand dollars and to not connect it to his receiver which is connected to an Outlaw audio 100W x 7 Amp. Can an HDMI connection blow a TV's circut board? Is thhis guy just robbing a senior of his hard earned pension & SS money? Any ideas suggestions would be welcomed, including anyone successfully connectiong the Mits 3D unit to this or a smiliar 72-73" Mits DLP, vintage 2007?
post #5176 of 5405
hey gentlemen,

happy new WD60638 owner here.

i have just one issue which is huge for me:

i am trying to connect xbox 360 with HDMI but it says invalid format. but when connected weith regular component cables it works fine?

any help would be appreciated!!

btw, $699.99 + tax was my cost!


what a deal!
post #5177 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by asadkhanvp View Post

hey gentlemen,

happy new WD60638 owner here.

i have just one issue which is huge for me:

i am trying to connect xbox 360 with HDMI but it says invalid format. but when connected weith regular component cables it works fine?

any help would be appreciated!!

btw, $699.99 + tax was my cost!

what a deal!

Try a different hdmi 1.3b compatible cable...
post #5178 of 5405
hello you seem intelligent and up to date on the mitsubishi 1080p dlp tv and i have a question why will my tv only shows in 480p any suggestions???
thanks
ronnie
email ronnieforrest@yahoo.com
post #5179 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnie forrest View Post

hello you seem intelligent and up to date on the mitsubishi 1080p dlp tv and i have a question why will my tv only shows in 480p any suggestions???
thanks
ronnie

If Your source is 480p, Then You're stuck there, The TV should adjust to whatever is around, If that is not It, then hit the menu or the video button and do some exploring.

Also unless You like Viagra email spam or whatever I wouldn't post an email address in the open again.
post #5180 of 5405
im getting a WD60638 and want to play ps3 games in 3d,and i get the starter kit will i need anything else?i keep reading about a software update will i need it or will it work out of the box?thanks
post #5181 of 5405
gentleman,

i fixed my problem.

it was not the tv, just the xbox settings.

if someone else encounters the invalid format issue when using xbox 360, simply:

connect the xbox 360 with hdmi to the tv

start the system without a game in the tray.

let the system load (wait 30 seconds, as you will not be able to see it load due to no picture)

after 30 seconds, hold the right trigger and the Y button together for some time.

pretty soon it will do its magic and your 1080p xbox 360 will function properly.

and let me tell you guys, the picture on the wd 60638 with 1080p is second to none, especially with xbox 360 and ps3!

enjoy guys!
post #5182 of 5405
Can anyone tell me if the bulb life of this model is dramatically different than say the 738 model ....So far on other sites ive read 2 reviews that say the 638 model goes through bulbs like crazy..

I do watch alot of tv. lets say on a "lazy day" more than 9 hours
post #5183 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by georgiabulldawg View Post

im getting a WD60638 and want to play ps3 games in 3d,and i get the starter kit will i need anything else?i keep reading about a software update will i need it or will it work out of the box?thanks

# You may need an adapter to convert the 3D format from on type of format to another type. There are several 3D signal formats. The 3D signal is the electronic information that is actually carried on the cable between your source device and your TV. Watch Get 3D video. While there are a lot of 3D signal formats, the most common will fall into one of three types:

1. Frame Packing - mostly sent by Blu-ray players and game consoles. This is a very high resolution signal that carries a lot of detail.
2. Side-by-Side - mostly sent by satellite receivers and cable boxes.
3. Top-Bottom - mostly sent by cable boxes and possibly by satellite receivers. This formate is also referred to as Over-Under.
4. While the Checkerboard 3D format can be used to send a 3D signal over the connecting cable, this is not expected to be a common format from most source devices. However, new select Panasonic Blu-ray players have a setting to convert the 3D signal to the Checkerboard format that is compatible with all Mitsubishi 3D Ready and 3D TVs.
5. For your Mitsubishi, when you need an adapter, you have two choices:
1. 3DA-1 - this contains the 3D Signal Adapter, AC Power Adapter, Remote Control with battery, one HDMI cable and one Synchronization interconnect cable for the 3D glasses. Additional items that are needed but not included with this product are Active Shutter 3D Glasses, an IR Emitter or RF Transmitter (if you the glasses you select are the IR or RF type) and an HDMI cable to connect between your source device and the 3D Signal Adapter.
2. 3DC-1000 - this is the 3D Starter Pack and it includes a 3D signal adapter, AC Power Adapter, Remote Control with battery, one HDMI cable, one 3D Glasses Synchronization Interconnect Cable, two Pairs of Active Shutter Glasses each with a battery, one IR emitter and a Blu-ray starter disc of select 3D video content.

I believe the 60638 needs the adapter. if you look on the website when you click on 3D it only shows the 7 series and 8 series for the download.
post #5184 of 5405
I have a WD-57733 manufactured in November 2007. Yesterday we started getting the BGLOD. Diagnostic Code is 66. Observations - turn the TV on and you get sound, but no picture. Walk around to the back and you can hear a fan power up and see an ignitor flashing about 6 times, but the bulb never fires. Fan powers down and it repeats the cycle. It will do this two or three times, then the TV shuts down. After you attempt to turn the TV on twice, the red light remains illuminated after that attempt.

Would I be correct to assume that the lamp is fried after 3 years? I have read the thousands of posts about bulging capacitors and all the other wonderful engineering marvels on these boxes, so I want to make sure I'm chasing the right problem...

Thanks in advance.
Mike
post #5185 of 5405
Quote:


Would I be correct to assume that the lamp is fried after 3 years?

Maybe, or a bad ballast. How many hours on the set? (You have kept track haven't you?)
post #5186 of 5405
I have a WD-62627 and I'm trying to figure out what's going on with it. The screen is flickering lightly, but it is noticeable. Imagine a flourescent light that is going bad, it's almost exactly like that, just not as 'strong'.

I just replaced my lamp for the 2nd time (on Lamp #3), but it was doing this before it went out. I figured it was just a sign that the lamp was about to go. I'm no longer under warranty with Mits or where I purchased it, but I remember calling the Warranty people about it but I could never get it to happen when they showed up.

Does anyone know what this might be? It's rather distracting.
post #5187 of 5405
[quote=
Originally Posted by JohnDaddyo
Is their a website that gives the codes to enter for the hidden menus on the Mits WD 73927? I have the numbers for the lamp usage but, I forget how I got it or what they mean![/QUOTE]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyabusha View Post
http://www.segaarcade.com/pdfs/hod4/...ice_Manual.pdf

TV Menu 2,4,7,0

Total time Is on the far bottom left, current time next to It.
Thanks alot Hyabusha for this
post #5188 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post
I believe they are always there since the tuners are always present and on.

That's the number one feature of these older sets. TWO RF INPUTS. Another stupid omission from all sets today.
thanks videobruce for all your posts in this thread

own a 62827 with TWO RF INPUTS.
was there ever a upgrade(s/w) to let you watch the atsc tuner in the pip ?

as i write noted no mention of pip on these newer models. do any have it ?
just looked thru the 73738 manual and no buttons on the remote for it
sure is handy on the weekends when theres 2 games on at the same time.

on another note checking the bulb life menu
24988 00255 06680 03512 03537

looks like 1 is total hours the rest ???
never looked before today at it.
my first last 18mo
2 10
3 14
4 14 did not die but was way dim

usage
15 hours a day for 57 months
24988 sounds about right
thanks
post #5189 of 5405
indecks;
If it isn't the lamp (I doubt that), or the ballast (I doubt that also, but I haven't seen this issue come up), then it may be the 'iris' depending how how fast the flicker is pumping.
Does it happen on all inputs?
How about when the menu is up, is it there also?
Does it happen as soon as it is powered up or after a period of time?
I could be internal signal related going into the DMD, a component breaking down.

madmadworld;
To answer your questions in the same order;
No, not that I'm aware of. It would be more a circuit change than just firmware I would think.
I believe most manufactures got away from PIP/POP due to cost and what they perceive of lack of interest.
I'm not familiar to the newer models service menu. Your set is on 15 hrs. a day??
post #5190 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

madmadworld;
To answer your questions in the same order;
No, not that I'm aware of. It would be more a circuit change than just firmware I would think.
I believe most manufactures got away from PIP/POP due to cost and what they perceive of lack of interest.
I'm not familiar to the newer models service menu. Your set is on 15 hrs. a day??
wish full thinking on the pip atsc

pip works well on a 62''
on my 18 years young Mit's 40'' it is novel at best lol
but kinda surpised it's not at least on top of the line sets.

sometimes it's over 15 hours a day. when i put it on the 30 min sleep mode and i fall asleep first (and that's 100% of the time) she's up longer than me

also note shopping tv's none have bulit in dvr's like my 62''. very nice and works like a charm.
well i said when i bought it $$$$ would have forever sure plan to still.
thanks bruce
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