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>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 174

post #5191 of 5405
That has to some kind of record.
post #5192 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

indecks;
If it isn't the lamp (I doubt that), or the ballast (I doubt that also, but I haven't seen this issue come up), then it may be the 'iris' depending how how fast the flicker is pumping.
Does it happen on all inputs?
How about when the menu is up, is it there also?
Does it happen as soon as it is powered up or after a period of time?
I could be internal signal related going into the DMD, a component breaking down.

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure what the ballast is. is it something I could check personally? I'm a user, not a repair man, just in case you were gonna suggest tearing it apart, heh.

As far as I can tell, yes it happens on all inputs and it happens randomly. Right after start up, after an hour or two, etc. Just randomly. I have to check to see if it happens when the menu is up, I think it does NOT, but I can't be sure. I just checked and it didn't look like it was happening with the menu up.

In fact I think I just found another issue. My wife is watching Netflix on the Xbox360. When I went to check to see if it flickered with the menu up, I noticed the movie she was watching was REALLY dark, but I thought nothing of it because it's a Mystery Science Theater movie, and some of them can be really dark because of their low quality. I changed inputs from Component (xbox360) to HDMI1 (cable), then came back to component. To my horror, I saw that the video on the Xbox was very bright and clear. It looked almost like the screen had been darkened when you pause a movie and it goes into screen saver mode, etc.

This is really troubling.
post #5193 of 5405
Not sure if this was posted anywhere else, but I have a WD-73727 and I just had the light engine replaced 18 months ago and after replacing the buld a month ago I noticed that the color seemed distorted. Especially the whites and blacks. They look blotchy like they are clipping. It does not seem to be getting worse, but it looks horrible if the scenes are bright or dark. Any help would be great! It doesnt help to turn the contrast nor brightness up or down min to max.

Any help is help!
Mark
post #5194 of 5405
indecks; There is a specific service menu to disable the iris (assuming this set has one). It's "press Menu then 2453". The 'iris' function is disabled only while in the service menu mode. When you exit, the iris is re-enabled.
Leave the screen up and see if the problem is still there on the last input you were on.

JDirty; can you post a screen shot?
post #5195 of 5405
After 2 trips to my local store, I convinced myself that I didnt care about the TV anymore and I was going to purchase the 82837. One condition was I would give fixing it one more shot. I took the whole thing apart all the way down to holding the color wheel in my hand. (glove) The first lens to the color wheel had dirt caked up on it, more on one half than the other. I also noticed the same on the Lamp. I removed the color wheel and it was filthy. I carefully cleaned the color wheel with warm water (just a drop or 2) and a super soft cloth. When I put the light engine and lamp housing back in I noticed alot of dust at the matching end of the housing as the lens and the lamp had. So I took the front of the TV of and air tunnel cover off and low and behold there was a quarter inch gap between the where the lamp was and where the lamp should be and it looked as if the housing wasnt seated right. When the light engine was replaced they changed the bulb and must have got it to seat better than I did. The gap was enough to let light out and dirt in. Wow what a difference it makes now. I must have removed and replaced that lamp 10 times and i never noticed it wasnt seating all the way. ugh I am a dumbass. Thanks for your help anyways man!
Mark
post #5196 of 5405
Since you were the 1st to dissemble all of this (AFAIK), you did take photos of each step of the process so others could benefit??
post #5197 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Since you were the 1st to dissemble all of this (AFAIK), you did take photos of each step of the process so others could benefit??

I have a friend that has fixed quite of few of these & has all sorts of pics
on 65,73,55, ect Light engines & color wheels out ect...
Completely taken apart , laid out on his floor. he has 4 in the room I was just in. I'll see if I can get him to post.

I'm planning on going 3D with my 73837 , anyone know what's best?
Sammy's glasses pack or Mitsubishi's / one is half price, is quality any
difference? All opinons welcome, Please!!!
post #5198 of 5405
For the 73837 you need the Mits adapter unless you plan on using one of the checkerboard Panasonic BD players as your only 3D source, and you also need an IR emitter if you are going to use IR glasses. The Samsung pack contains neither of these. The Samsung and Mitsubishi glasses themselves are absolutely identical.
post #5199 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjroddy View Post

For the 73837 you need the Mits adapter unless you plan on using one of the checkerboard Panasonic BD players as your only 3D source, and you also need an IR emitter if you are going to use IR glasses. The Samsung pack contains neither of these. The Samsung and Mitsubishi glasses themselves are absolutely identical.

I was planing on using playstation, streaming from my computer thru PS3 Server... Flawless up till this new 3D stuff.
Will it work, is it worth it for the impact?
My 1080p stuff allmost looks 3D, what do you think?
post #5200 of 5405
tenguru; The purpose of my question was if photos were available, to post them here so other would benefit. I wouldn't even think of dismantling something as complex as this without taking photos. Many photos I might add!

No one has replaced the color wheel here that I know of unlike the Sammy DLP's where a color wheel is available as a service part. AFAIK, they aren't available (at least on the older models).
post #5201 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by tenguru View Post

I was planing on using playstation, streaming from my computer thru PS3 Server... Flawless up till this new 3D stuff.
Will it work, is it worth it for the impact?
My 1080p stuff allmost looks 3D, what do you think?

For that set-up you will need the Mitsubishi adapter... worth it? In my opinion, probably not yet... there's just not enough 3d content out there yet: only reason I'm in already is that I bought a 65837 last September because it was the size I wanted at a price I was willing to pay. 3D was not a factor. Only afterwards I found out about the 3D starter pack giveaway, and that was pretty irresistible.
post #5202 of 5405
I'm looking at a WD-60C10 for $699. 65" is too big, and I plan to use it only to watch TV (DSH) and DVD ina somewhat bright room. After seeing a playoff game on my friend's DLP set, I am decidedly impressed with DLP picture quality, as I was years ago when I first saw it. I don't need a flat panel. I can't read all the posts here but I've seen nothing to indicate there is a better deal at this size/price level.
post #5203 of 5405
post #5204 of 5405
I own a C Series (Model WD-C657) Mitsubishi DLP. My Mother-in-Law is hard of hearing and we would like to plug-in a head set for her to listen while we continue listening over the TV's speakers.

The problem is that this model "senses" that you've plugged into the jack and will only turn on one or the other output. Does anyone know of a way to over-ride this?

If it was like most electronic devices that mechanically over-rides by pushing in the audio plug, I could "hot-wire" the jack. But this seems to be electronically controlled.

Thank you,

Simi Tom
post #5205 of 5405
Other than 'portable' devices, headphone jacks pretty much disappeared a decade ago. To use a headphone, you would need an external amp of some type. The only audio outputs should be line level.
post #5206 of 5405
Just replaced my old WD65733 with a new 73 inch. Was going to sell the old one to the neighbor for a few bucks and now it has the blinking light of death.

Without reviewing the 140+ pages in this thread, does anybody know the best way to get some satisfaction out of Mitsubishi on an out of warranty set?

This thing did not have many hours on it, and I don't know what the problem is (code 12, blinking timer light). The repair services tell me that it is likely going to cost me $500 for the damn thing, and I was only going to sell it for $400. If I knew what parts were still good I'd be better off parting it out on EBAY as the light engines go for above $350 each.

I thought I caught a post about Mitsu offering some customers free parts and customer pays for labor but can't find it. Any help greatly appreciated.

I loved the DLP set but would have thought twice about upgrading if I had known about the high failure rate. I sure hope the 738 series has a better set of electronics.
post #5207 of 5405
Quote:


if I had known about the high failure rate.

It's no higher than any other DLP. What makes you think it has a "high failure rate"? All things 'break' sooner or later.

Have you looked through this?;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1310024
post #5208 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post
It's no higher than any other DLP. What makes you think it has a "high failure rate"? All things 'break' sooner or later.

Have you looked through this?;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1310024
Thanks for the link I will check it out.

As far as the failure rate, someone quoted a 21% failure rate for Mitsu DLP's within three years (although I don't know where that comes from) but I have had things break before and usually you can find some help online and a couple people complain about a problem, but never have I seen the number of threads, complaints, problems for one product than when I started searching on this particular set. Not very scientific, but has to count for something.

Xbox 360 owners coined "Red Ring of Death" because of a rash of problems. I think the "green light of death" on the older sets is not a name that came from one or two bad sets.

I will have to look at the main board and see what the capacitors look like. Seems to be what most of the reading points to.
post #5209 of 5405
Quote:
but never have I seen the number of threads, complaints, problems for one product than when I started searching on this particular set.
Apparently you haven't searched for a Sony LCoS set.
Search for any specific item and you will see the problems. Most don't bother when the product works correctly. I'm not inferring that Mits is far better than any other manufacture, but AFAIC, it's at least average.
post #5210 of 5405
Me I've had My WD-57731 for about 5 years now and except for changing the lamp from time to time and noticing a hole in one corner of the case in the bottom rear from moving the TV once by My relatives, The 57" TV has never been bad to Me. I do wish that It used less power, But I have PCs that use more power than the TV and I built them Myself.
post #5211 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalz1 View Post

Just replaced my old WD65733 with a new 73 inch. Was going to sell the old one to the neighbor for a few bucks and now it has the blinking light of death.

Without reviewing the 140+ pages in this thread, does anybody know the best way to get some satisfaction out of Mitsubishi on an out of warranty set?

This thing did not have many hours on it, and I don't know what the problem is (code 12, blinking timer light). The repair services tell me that it is likely going to cost me $500 for the damn thing, and I was only going to sell it for $400. If I knew what parts were still good I'd be better off parting it out on EBAY as the light engines go for above $350 each.

I thought I caught a post about Mitsu offering some customers free parts and customer pays for labor but can't find it. Any help greatly appreciated.

I loved the DLP set but would have thought twice about upgrading if I had known about the high failure rate. I sure hope the 738 series has a better set of electronics.

I got luck and found a WD-73827 on craigs list for free(someone left it in the condo they vacated). When I got it home and plugged it in, I got the flashing power light problem. After a half hour long argument w/ customer support, I had them mail me the software to reset the TV and viola, It runs like a champ.

It might be the same issue, and its a free fix.
post #5212 of 5405
I do have a question. Has any one tried to replace the hard drive in a 728 or similar chasis?
post #5213 of 5405
Good question. I never saw anyone mention this since that wasn't a very popular model. No idea what file system was used.
post #5214 of 5405
The drives in the units are an AVHD with a Panasonic controller chip. I tried replacing it with an Indigita-based unit and no luck.
post #5215 of 5405
I wonder if a drive from an external AVHDD would work??
The RCA model for example. I have two.
post #5216 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I wonder if a drive from an external AVHDD would work??
The RCA model for example. I have two.

The RCA's are Indigita-based.
post #5217 of 5405
Ok, then one would assume Panasonic uses some other file system?
post #5218 of 5405
I have the 60738 model, and a PS3. I have not bought anything for it 3D related yet as I was saving up a few weeks for the kit. I just saw the update (12.07) now and it looks like I might not need everything in the kit anymore. So if I use my PS3 for 3D gaming and blu-ray movies, the only thing I need to buy now is just the dlp glasses? No adapter or emitter?

These are some that I saw another poster mention.....

Xpand 3D Shutter Glasses
Xpand X102 DLP-Link 3D Revolution Glasses - Blue
NXG Technology NX-3DG Active Shutter Type 3D Glasses

thanks for any help.
post #5219 of 5405
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Ok, then one would assume Panasonic uses some other file system?

The TV obviously will use an Indigita-based AVHDD (such as the RCA's) because they show up and are useable when connected via Firewire. If you could wire it appropriately (controller board and drive), it would probably also work internally, as it is just connected by Firewire as well.

The unit inside however is a Panasonic-based unit, and with a drive from the Indigita unit attached it would not address it. Not sure if it is a file system issue, a formatting issue using the same file system, or something else. All I know is that when I attached a 500GB drive that worked perfectly in an RCA unit, it would not work attached to the Panasonic-based control board.
post #5220 of 5405
No such luck that would of worked.
I was/am never a fan of a combo player/TV (or recorder/TV) other than portable DVD players. Especially a PC within a monitor which has to be the worst idea (other than a Laptop of course).
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