>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 179

SAP is off. Sound has been changed from sim surround to stereo to no avail. What does Guide/Format do?

A/V reset.

OK. I didn't do that, but I did use the A/V Reset option in the menus. Can't try the buttons right now, got to watch my Steelers.

Apologies in advance, given that the answer may already be in one of these many posts.

Mit 638 C10 series: I understand that there is a "trick" to get the system to display the bulb life (used and remaining) yet my user manual does not address this hiden fiture.

What series of remote buttons need I push to obtain the desired info?

Thanks in advance.

I forget the sequence but it's listed here just search for it. It will list the hours of use. It can't tell you the hours left on the bulb. The bulb dies when it dies.

I think it's Hit menu, 2470

I'm hoping someone can tell me if there is an internal battery that retains the Net Command settings if the TV were to lose power. Every time I lose power even for a few seconds my WD-5268 loses its Net Command settings. Normally I can go in and reset them. This time however I am unable to finish resetting all of the settings. Once I get to the review screen and press 'Next' the screen freezes and pressing any key or combination of keys on the remote does nothing. The same goes for the TV itself. Then the TV powers off by itself and the Timer light is blinking for about a minute. Once it stops it won't turn on again for about 10 minutes. Sometimes when you turn it on it just has a blue screen and none of the remote buttons or the buttons on the TV do anything and it then powers off again. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.
However, when I pressed "menu" then "2470 it brought up another menu for Information, Reset, Calabration and Test, and none of these revealed lamp life/usage.

The TV will never tell you remaining life in the lamp because there is no way to predict this. Lamps do not have a finite number of usable hours!! Some (a rare few) last only about 2,000 hours others of the exact same design last around 5,000 and still other of the same design (again a rare few) last over 10,000. The bell curve is extremely broad and there is nothing to tell the TV what remains of the current lamp.

In the early days, a TV would give a warning after a set amount of hours (I do not know the amount) but those models showed the number of hours used in the consumer menus and had a way to reset the hours when the lamp was replaced. Later models took the hours of use out of the consumer menus and list only the 2470 menu. Normally at the bottom. Current models it is only the total number of hours the TV has been used and does not track the current lamp (unless it is the original lamp).

Sorry I have the 52627 and that's the code for my lamp life

I got a hold of Mitsubishi customer service this afternoon when I got home from work and spoke to John and he walked me through initializing my set and now it works fine .

well my work around finally gave up, the TV is showing the same problems it did back in November. I tried to re-do the thermal compound on the Heatsink / fan combo I had in it, and then tried another heatsink fan combo and put the mits fan in it too and no luck looks like the 934C152004 board is bad at this point. I seen it for $125 on ebay but am leery since it is used and I may end up having other problems pop up on this set

if anyone needs parts I am going to keep tinkering around with it for a while, I may part it out if someone wants some bulbs cheap, or needs a color wheel or etc. I thought about possibly trying to reflow the chip but not sure I would have luck with that if that is even what it is (possible cold solder joints on the chip).

Well I lost power again (twice). The first time I was able to reset all the Net Command settings and it worked fine. I lost power the second time and tried to reset all the settings and it didn't work. I turned it off and back on and it required it again. I tried it again and it shut off after setting them. I was able to power it back up and do the Menu 123 trick to initialize it and it did and shut down and now won't power back up at all. I unplugged and plugged it several times and still won't power up. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jerry

I had a similar problem with my 57831. Every time it lost power, it lost all user settings. It turned out to be an EEPROM that was bad and once it was replaced the problem was solved.

Thanks for the reply. Did you replace the EEPROM yourself? If so where did you get it?

Jerry

What was the cost of the repair? You are the first person to reply with the same problem. I was beginning to think I was the only one with this problem.

Thanks - Jerry
Edited by Cujok - 7/11/12 at 11:29am

I had it repaired under warranty, so no cost. This particular company takes all repairs back to their shop.

Welp, I haven't had much luck in troubleshooting this set with my limited tools

Just curious still if anyone else had seen the same problems I had and if so what was the fix? I really hate to have to throw this set away

The problems I was having are a few pages back. I get distortion on the left half of the screen, and only and exactly the entire left half. Lets say I have a analog cable signal goign to it on a channel that isnt there so snow appears, the left half is green colored. If I play a movie I get lots of green and purple smearing on the left half only of the screen.

no caps have shown bad as of yet, tried some freeze spray to cool some stuff down to see if it was heat related. Don't have an ocilioscope handy to look where it is jacked up.

Hi, folks, I have a WD62927 about 6 years old. It was working last night when my wife was watching it but, of course, this AM my kids went to turn it on and it made a clicking sound and had no video. We can get audio no problem though. The sound only occurs when turning on the system and sounds almost like a fan blade hitting something or like a relay popping on and off very rapidly. It will reoccur about a minute later and keep reoccurring several times. Then the whole unit will shut down entirely. I replaced the bulb in the unit about 4 years ago, could it be the bulb again? The last time the bulb died, it did it very slowly, getting dimmer and dimmer over a few weeks. The brightness on this one was fine last night while we watched the UCLA/Stanford game. I reset the unit from the front panel hoping it would fix the problem but no joy there. Any ideas? Maybe time for a new engine? Or a new TV entirely?

Ok, I have a WD-57731 TV that's also 6 years old, so welcome to the club, I see You already tried the reset button, dang it's either a new lamp or repair, unless someone else can suggest something else. Good luck.
Edited by JokerCPoC - 12/1/12 at 12:31pm

Ok, pulled the lamp housing and the lamp is totally busted with bits of glass floating around inside. Ordered a new lamp 2 day and we'll see what happens. This lamp (osram pvip 132-150) lasted about 3.5 years which doesn't seem to be bad lifewise. Can't remember who I ordered it from (pureland?) but they told me to remove the external shround over the bulb which I did. Interestingly, the lamp exploded externally on the farside of the bulb (opposite from the mesh air filter). Maybe it just temp cycled the glass to death? The internal portion of the bulb, the filament shroud and base is blasted apart so the only glass portion left is at the tip of the filament and the externally damaged portion is like a mooncrater with a small crack and hole at the base where the reflector mirror has been punctured. The other thing that's bad is that the external fascia plastic grill which covers the housing enclosure that you service the housing through is partially melted! Have to see what to do about that, anyone ever see that before!?
Edited by boomer400 - 12/3/12 at 11:52am

You can get housing & bulb original for &69-79 from many. Ebay ect

my Mitsubishi WD-62827 comes on fine but shuts off after 5- 10 min.then the front red light blinks.
and won't come back on till it's unplugged. hear the fan going.
thanks for reading

I had the same problem. Mine turned out to be a small switch on the lamp cover on the rear of the unit. As the unit heated up, the cover would move just enough so that the switch would indicate that the lamp cover was off. The solution? Put a small piece of double sided or thick tape over the little tab that engages the switch.

put a piece of Velcro on it still does it.
thanks alot
that would have been great.

Unplug the ste for a minute, then plug it back in, turn it on using the power button on the TV, holding it down till the blue light flashes.
It will then turn on & stay on.
The service manual says a connection is loose, I forget J-3 or 4, something like that.
My set makes settleing noises like a house expanding & contracting, & this may make those connections stay connected.
The set will stay on now for weeks. (I tested it) I was too lazy to take off back & do what service manual suggested.
I just do the restart/reset every once in a while.

get no blue light where should this light be ?
also the manual you sent is not for my set WD-62827, it's for newer models.
thanks for all your help

did a lamp reset and the lamp light came back right away after it shut down. and turned back on.
picture not dim when working,looks like it's at half life.
put in another lamp and it does the same thing (just shuts down)
Edited by madmadworld - 1/2/13 at 5:08pm

the repair guy came last week got a code of the light engine fan. he came back today installed the fan and now it's the light engine.
it's $700 more to replace it.(only $75 into it now)
any ideas ?
thanks for reading

Start shopping?

anyone know of a good re-builder of these light engines ?
found these guys...... know about them ?
http://www.moduslinkptstvboards.com/repairandreturn.aspx

thanks for reading