Ok, here we go.
Once upon a time, recently..., I stumbled upon a garage that was being left unused. I was bored, with nothing to do
I heard a rumor that maybe 45,000 people might wander into it soon, so being rather extroverted, I decided to go "Exibitionist" and throw up a 140" version of Light Fusion.
A happy camper I know who recently procured a 122" LF w/MMud-SM and a JVC HX2U D-ILA w/500 lumens was so very nice as to allow me to utilize that PJ to project an image.
Why would I use such a low lumen PJ for a location that had white walls, garage windows on the double wide door, and a light Grey floor? Am I stewpid or sumpthin'? And I'll have to set it up 21' feet away from the screen, thereby reducing those 500 lumens to approx. 200-250? I must be CRAZY!!!!
Naw. I'm being 'crafty'. It seems that somewhere else close by in the neighborhood, there are 10 other people who have built extensive Home Theaters, ranging from 25K to 35K, and all of 'em stickin' to "under 100" in dark environs to assure optimum viewability.
Me? I got a Garage. In the attached House is a actual "Family Room" Theater w/60" DLP over a Fireplace, (...how it go there is a wonder... :rolleyes: ) but it's located right inside the Front Door, so I'm supposed that the oiwner of the home decided it would have been improper to have it running when people just wandered in. So apparently, he just abandoned the garage to whatever I could temporarily make it into.
So I got my Toys together:
Ingersoll Rand 720 HVLP Spray gun
Husky 32 gal. 5.5 HP Compressor
1-- 122" x 69" Plexi mirror (140" diagonal 4" short of 12' !)
.....and something very special.
A Brand New version of MMud.
Base Mix 1:1:1 MMud using all the required components. NO substitutions. No altering of amounts recomended.
.....and then the wierdness started.
After having read here on AVS of attempts by others to use "Clears" to acheive gain, all the while with my having focused on inproving viewing in "moderate" Ambient light, I ran across some promising Ambient light results by one "pb_Maxxx" that got me ta thinnin'
"What if...." the use of such "Clears" combined with the MMud-SE varient could produce both the "Fusion Glow' as well as maintain or improve Contrast without Crushing whites?
The trouble with using too much Behr SM in the MMud-SE mix (...over 3 Oz per 3 Quart mix..) is that the resulting darkening of the Top Coat restricts it's use to PJs that have not just adaquate light output, but to those having "Laser-like" projection beams, lest the 'off the screen' brilliance LF is so noted for be unduly attenuated.
pb_Maxxx's particular mix utilized a different Silver Metallic, a "Radiant" variety with a very much lighter hue of Grey in the base.
......as well as a magical ingrediant that while mentioned on AVS before, had never had it's use amount to anything spectacular, just somewhat promising.
So I wrote to pb_Maxxx, and he graciously consented to collaborate and work to combine what IMO is the best of both worlds.
So without further ado:
You take 1 Quart MMud 1:1:1 Mix
--- consisting of the following "NON-NEGOTIBLE" ingrediants ----
1 qt. Behr UPW Flat Exterior
1 qt. Behr Deep Base Flat Exterior
1 qt. Behr White Opal Pearlescent "Premimum Plus with Style"
16 Oz Distilled Water
Total cost of above is approx. $40.00
To that quart of MMud you add:
1 additional quart of UPW Flat
16 Oz. 'more' of Distilled water
16 Oz of MinWax Acrylic Polyurethene :Satin Finish: (...the magical stuff...) -$14.95 -
32 Oz* of Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver #02603
(the latter comes in 8 Oz. Bottles @ 3.99 per at Michael's stores everywhere. )
*...and you read me rightly. a FULL QUART's worth of the new SM. That should tell everybody how much Silver there is, but without all the "Grey" pigmentation in the Behr S.M. I was reluctant to try a full 32 Oz so I opted for 24 Oz. instead, and all the coming posted images resulted from the weaker variety. Had I but only known.......@^*(*^$#@^(!!!!! :mad: I would have used another 8 Oz.
I shall NOT make such an ommision again, I assure you!
All ingrediants, when mixed together, produce a very much thinner MMud mix than ever before. This resulted in an extreamly fine and wet spray, and also resulted in what at first seemed a disaster! Using my normal method of spraying, and the same approximate speed and distance accross and from the Mirror's surface, I at first was delighted at the amount of coverage I was receiving. On I went, merrily squirting to my heart's contentment. Down from the top I went, row to row. I reached the bottom, stepped backwards for a overview.
There were THREE, mirror wide (10' !!!) lines of runs cascading down the screen !
Desperate, I stripped off my white Tshirt, and wiped away the bulk of it. I rinsed the shirt out, wrung it as much as I could (....the garage had a bathroom w/Sink...Thank you, Jesus!) and then wiped the area again, and repeated this at least 5-6 times, until I had the area of the mirror where the runs were completely restored to clarity.
Now all I had to do was to repaint the cleaned area, and try to blend into a distintly obvious line of paint that stretched across the screen from one side to the other at approx 1/4 of the way down from the top. Never had I attempted anything so remotely as drastic a 'repair'. And get this....I had on 2 remaining days before perhaps someone would wander in and see the fruits of my labors.
But the new mix made it easy!!!!
I increased the speed (not the distance) I moved acrossed the mirror by 4 fold, to the effect I was 'thickly dusting' the surface. I let that "DRY" for 2 hours, then repeated that step about 5 times, trying to keep from overlapping the existing paint all the while. Once I acheived a parity of coating, I let the screen dry for 10 hours, then gently dry sanded (Large fine grit sponge ) the bottom 3/4s to knock down the coverage a tad bit, then I did likewise across the union of the new and old coating.
I then went over the entire screen with a coat applied so rapidly that the entire 140" diagonal Monster got coated in 5-6 minutes! I let that dry for 2 hours, then spot applied across the dividing line. Once dry, it was completely gone. Completely!
So I had my RS pb_MMMax LF Screen complete.
And whaddya know what?
..............dis is what.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...lightDarla.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...inthelight.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...mbientshot.jpg
.and these results, in the worst example possible of over 600 watts of Lighting.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...omuchlight.jpg
As in many such cases, the performance was/is better than the camera can capture because of the higher degree of room lighting than what is coming from the screen. Next post will show the differences.