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Official 2005 Sony KDSR-50/60XBR1 SXRD Owner's Thread - Page 790

post #23671 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by enyouartist View Post

I called the shop and told them the job is easy and they're charging me too much. Now they are saying that they fixed it already and that I have to pay them or else they are keeping the tv. I don't know what to do now.

Whatever you do keep it cordial with them. TV repair shops can get just as nasty as snubbed car mechanics. It's true that them repairing the set without your go-ahead was a dirty tactic, but man is it common.

Despite you knowing that this was an easy job, what you were charged is considered fair in the industry (parts + $150-$200 labor is typical). If I were in your position, I'd cough up the $200. Yes the TV is worth it especially if the picture quality is still great.

Now you know to research any problem thoroughly before even calling a shop, let alone allowing them to take possession of your TV.
post #23672 of 23983
You're right. My sentiments exactly. I figure that if i just demanded the tv back, they may be tempted to damage it. Thank you for your expertise and helpfulness. I really appreciate it. Lesson learned I guess. I will pay the $200, and hope that the optical block last another year. If that goes, I'm definitely getting rid of it. Thanks again!
post #23673 of 23983
By the way, do you live in NJ?
post #23674 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by enyouartist View Post

Thank you for your expertise and helpfulness. I really appreciate it. Lesson learned I guess. I will pay the $200, and hope that the optical block last another year. If that goes, I'm definitely getting rid of it. Thanks again!

It's my pleasure, glad to help. Check your PM Box.

Hopefully your optical block will keep going strong for years to come (stranger things have happened in this world ), but don't get your hopes too high.

If you really want to baby the TV, always run the lamp at reduced power saving mode and set high alttude to on.

The primary death knell of the OB is accumulated UV damage to the blue SXRD panel and polarizer. By running the lamp in reduced mode, approx 20% less UVA/B&C light waves are emitted. High altitude mode just ups the RPMs of the fans, keeping things cooler inside (esp the lamp).

The added benefit is that your lamp will have a longer lifespan. You maybe able to squeeze out 8.5-10K hours vs the typical 6-8K hours running 120W (standard power mode).
post #23675 of 23983
I could kick myself for not thinking of this until a few days ago. There are a wide assortment of very efficient glass UV filters available. They can be found in varying thicknesses and diameters intended for an array of uses (mostly astronomy and photography).

The great thing is, that you can hand-pick what wavelengths of UV to high energy blue you want blocked. Plenty of decent 90%+ efficienty filters are easily affordable ($20-$50 range).

There should be just enough room within the XL-5100 assembly to wedge one between the UHP and enclosure.

I'm going to do just that within the next few weeks. I'll also pull the ballast in order to conduct some external tests on just how effective this solution is.
post #23676 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by enyouartist View Post

I called the shop and told them the job is easy and they're charging me too much. Now they are saying that they fixed it already and that I have to pay them or else they are keeping the tv. I don't know what to do now.

I see the response that KewlK had, and if you want the smoothest result, yes pay. However, I would not personally settle for this. If they advertise free estimates (and you have proof of this) and you did not pre-approve the work, you have a legal "leg" to stand on. I do not like getting pushed around (must be the "Nepoleon complex" as I am only 5"6" tall) and would not agree to pay. I would show up and demand the TV on the spot - if they give grief about the part being repaird, have them remove it on the spot and give you the old one back. Maybe then, you could negotiate a reduced payment. It is obvious my approach is more forceful and requires the personality to match...

Just my 2 cents worth. Maybe I will see you on Judge Judy
post #23677 of 23983
Decided to leap over my UV filter idea and go for the gold.

LED tech has finally evolved enough to make this concept possible, and work well.

Going to convert an XL-5100 lamp cage to a 50,000 hr+ LED array.

Before anyone doubts or freaks, no worries, I thought of everything:

Required luminosity, acceptable color temp, sufficient heat dissipation, suitable voltage driver, proper reflector + collimation lens, component spacing and placement. The most difficult task will be to fool the TV into sensing that the ballast and UHP are still present, but I'll figure it out.

It will take up to a month for most of the parts to arrive (they are mostly from China, of course). Then as time permits it will be done.

Benefits:

-no more lamp changes
-instant illumination, no more waiting for lamp warm-up
-absolutely no damaging UV or useless high energy blue/violet emitted whatsoever
-fast power cycling and power outages far less risky
-much more power efficient
-much cooler operating temp (max 50C vs UHP 90C+)
-50,000-100,000 hr sevice life
-same level of luminosity as UHP
-_drumroll please_ *VERY LIKELY* no further degradation of the blue polarizer and panel.
(ahem, no more green, yellow, blue, purple, pink or magenta blobs/hazes to dread creeping up)

...And all for the price of one lousy replacement lamp...
post #23678 of 23983
Wow...this sounds interesting! Please keep us posted on your progress!
post #23679 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schwa View Post

Wow...this sounds interesting! Please keep us posted on your progress!

+1

...Sounds fantastic......Hope he can get it to work!
post #23680 of 23983
If you can I will buy one for my old 70 XBR2!!!!
post #23681 of 23983
I found the service manual that was purchased years ago. No need to offer it to me anymore.

Please no PMs, my inbox is maxed and would rather not be hassled with having to keep organizing it.

If you have any comments or questions, just post directly to this thread.
post #23682 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by Micro View Post

If you can I will buy one for my old 70 XBR2!!!!

The XBR2 models and Qualia 006 operate with 180 and 200 watt UHPs respectively. Lumens output required for them is almost twice as much as what's needed to properly illuminate the XBR1/A2000/A2020/A3000.

Now it is possible, but with current LED tech, much more difficult to cool.

An XBR2 LED array would require a massive heatsink. The XL-5300 lamp caddy would have to be heavily modified to accommodate it.
post #23683 of 23983
I should state that what will be attempted is a proof of concept experiment. Kind of a show & tell...just for kicks.

I have no intentions of marketing any DIY LED conversion kits...sorry.

As we all know too well, RPTV SXRD/LCoS is dead. Whatever little interest is left will quickly dwindle. RPTV DLP is in its death throws as well.

I just don't have the financial backing to pull off something like that, even small scale.

Even if I did, it just wouldn't be worth the ROI risk.
post #23684 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

I should state that what will be attempted is a proof of concept experiment. Kind of a show & tell...just for kicks.

I have no intentions of marketing any DIY LED conversion kits...sorry.

As we all know too well, RPTV SXRD/LCoS is dead. Whatever little interest is left will quickly dwindle. RPTV DLP is in its death throws as well.

I just don't have the financial backing to pull off something like that, even small scale.

Even if I did, it just wouldn't be worth the ROI risk.

Well understood.....But if you manage to pull this off; Will you post some extensive guidance so that we may follow in your footsteps?

Thanks Much,
post #23685 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccrider2 View Post

Well understood.....But if you manage to pull this off; Will you post some extensive guidance so that we may follow in your footsteps?

Thanks Much,

Yes Chris, I'm considering it.

I have to admit though, if I were to start seeing my little project pop up on eBay...I'd actually be pretty PO'ed. It is a patent worthy idea regardless of its lack of profitability in the current market place.

However, perhaps I'm totallly wrong about lack of potential interest in this. There is still a sizeable user base of LCoS/DLP owners at this time (although more and more kick their sets to the curb everyday). ...And think of all the FVP enthusiasts as well.

Well, back to the technical side of things. I would love to design it so that no internal modification to the TV is required at all (PnP). There is a major problem with that: start voltage is 5000 volts AC Only after that initial jolt do you get some AC voltage+current which could be harnessed and converted to useful DC. Maybe some crafty additional circuitry could take care of this.

Unfortunately it's looking more like I'll have to either disable the lamp ballast completely, opting for a simulated false arc active signal to trick the TV. Other possibilities would be to hack the ballast into sending the active arc signal while not completely powered up, or hard modding things on the receiving end to achieve the same result.
post #23686 of 23983
KewlK,
may the farce...... uh, I mean force be with you!
post #23687 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Yes Chris, I'm considering it.

I have to admit though, if I were to start seeing my little project pop up on eBay...I'd actually be pretty PO'ed. It is a patent worthy idea regardless of its lack of profitability in the current market place.

However, perhaps I'm totallly wrong about lack of potential interest in this. There is still a sizeable user base of LCoS/DLP owners at this time (although more and more kick their sets to the curb everyday). ...And think of all the FVP enthusiasts as well.

Well, back to the technical side of things. I would love to design it so that no internal modification to the TV is required at all (PnP). There is a major problem with that: start voltage is 5000 volts AC Only after that initial jolt do you get some AC voltage+current which could be harnessed and converted to useful DC. Maybe some crafty additional circuitry could take care of this.

Unfortunately it's looking more like I'll have to either disable the lamp ballast completely, opting for a simulated false arc active signal to trick the TV. Other possibilities would be to hack the ballast into sending the active arc signal while not completely powered up, or hard modding things on the receiving end to achieve the same result.

Sell it, or give it away.....still a good idea if reliable, and enables a good OB to run forever.

I've seen a few Engineers 'jerry-rig' things in my time spent as an Industrial Electrician. These things always seem to work better when OLD and NEW are completely separated, with 'handshakes' designed between as an interface. Trying to modify the OLD to make it work with the NEW usually results in an unexpected issues.

As I sit, I'm just waiting for the slightly green tint (not really noticeable yet) to get to the unbearable level then it's 'out to the barn' with the rest of the junk. I can't see putting much more than $400 in this thing when 1500 will put me in a new TV. So, I need a solution before my block goes kaput (might be too close for comfort now). As long as this Thread is, I'd guess there are many with unused TV's setting, who knows where, that might want to try this. Remember, this POS TV was once the 'thing to buy', and still has an excellent picture and sound. The only issue would be getting they're attention....as they've probably moved away from this Thread.

Either way, I wish you good endeavores.........
post #23688 of 23983
Happy Thanksgiving Chris. Before I head off to join the rest of the family, I want to respond.

I too realize the potential retrofit issues of the new with the old. The idea is to minimize the interface complexity as much as possible and to stay completely within electrical specs, with safety first and foremost. There will be no short-cuts or crossing fingers and hoping for the best. It will be a solid, dependable design.

Yes, my main goal in doing this is to allow the optical block to last indefinitely. UHP lamps are extremely difficult to properly tame, especially within a polarized optical system. The energy potential of polarized UV light waves is even greater. It is almost impossible to completely block all UV from a UHP. The stray UV and deep blue/violet wavelengths mercilessly bombard the blue SXRD chip, causing accumulated damage over time.

I am in the same exact boat as you, with slight uniformity issues. Yes, the TV is still worth salvaging regardless. There are OB repair services for under $300.
post #23689 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffloydsky View Post

I am new to this forum , so forgive me if I am adding redundant information. I contacted Sony regarding my 55" KDF55XS955 due to a bad optical block (just like everybody else) on 11/8/11. Being a little late to the party, I only recently discovered the issue. I was offered the following options:

KDL46EX500 for $710 plus local sales tax
KDL55EX500 for $870 plus local sales tax

To call this a small increase from what I have noticed other people were offered prior to the expiration of the program is being politically correct. I have responded to them trying to negotiate significantly lower options and will post if I have any success.

Hi, welcome to the forum (or what's left of it after all the fallout).

Just wanted to say thanks for posting the info. Curious if you had any success talking the pencil pushers down a bit?

I have recently been informed of the current offers for the KDS-R50/60XBR1:

KDL-46EX500 $500
KDL-55EX500 $700

Ummm....yeah, that's a $400-$500 price hike from just last month.

What I find most hilarious about these offers is that Sony actually believes them to be generous.

The EX500 models are last year's lower-middle to budget range LCD lineup.

Regardless of understandable product price depreciation over the years, the namesake of this thread is XBR...Sony's "elite" lineup.

We dug deep into our pockets back in '06 and purchased XBRs. We wanted the best Sony was offering at the time (well, OK there was also the $$$$ Q006).

We put up with a flawed technology for years, inconvenient repair after repair, patiently hoping that Sony would eventually get their crap together.

Since when would it be acceptable to offer a brand new KIA as a "generous" replacement for an older pricey exotic car?? ..& on top of that insult, dare to ask for more mula as collateral along with waiving your right to sue the company in the future...are you kidding me!!!???

OK...not the greatest analogy, but my point is obvious. Corporate greed never ceases to amaze me.
post #23690 of 23983
i found one of the 2 fans was not working 120mm. i replaced it 8.99 on newegg.com. i installed it air out insteda air in, make sure air is blowing in . ^^ fixed
post #23691 of 23983
k computer 120mm dosnt werk not powerfull enough ^^;
post #23692 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by v0dka360 View Post

k computer 120mm dosnt werk not powerfull enough ^^;

http://www.cwc-group.com/sff21c.html
post #23693 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by v0dka360 View Post

i installed it air out insteda air in, make sure air is blowing in . ^^ fixed

Make sure the fan is blowing out (air out), not in. If you have it blow inward, sure it will cool the lamp, but drastically raise internal ambient temp. All that heat would get trapped inside instead of evacuating it out the back!
post #23694 of 23983
I recently did a quick calibration touch-up (ignoring the very slight yellow haze). Very alarmed to find that both gamma and contrast performance has slowly yet steadily deteriorated substantially over the past two years.

This fourth OB was a solid 1.8 when first installed. I have verified that the lamp is not to blame for the issue. Unable to bring up gamma level to much more than 1.45 without sacrificing too much brightness. No matter what calibration tactics I wrestle with, restoring the image "pop" effect has been mostly unsuccessful. Focus, convergence, and geometry are absolutely perfect. It's such a shame.

THEN, I discovered these two threads and my suspicions were confirmed:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1168031

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1172164

Now I must find myself a pristine OB, then never use a UHP bulb on it again. All of this quirky image degradation is due almost entirely to accumulated UV damage.
post #23695 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Earth to SteveM4963. Do you ever check your PM box?

Sorry Earth (KewlK). Main PC's been down with a virus!
post #23696 of 23983
I've lurked here off and on for opinions on various topics, but I'm coming way late to the party, as my KDS-50A2000 I bought back in August 2006 is just now getting a greenish tint - most noticeably when watching B&W films. I guess my set hasn't been on quite as much as everyone else's - the original lamp was just replaced late last year. At any rate, I'm not too happy to see that Sony's pulling back on the replacement program. I've always had Sony televisions, and I'm still using a CRT from 1987 in one of the bedrooms. I certainly thought my XBR would last more than 5 years. I doubt I'll even bother to call them about a replacement - I think this is my last Sony product.
post #23697 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveM4963 View Post

Sorry Earth (KewlK). Main PC's been down with a virus!

Wow, sorry to hear that. Check your PM.
post #23698 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by lph1 View Post

I've lurked here off and on for opinions on various topics, but I'm coming way late to the party, as my KDS-50A2000 I bought back in August 2006 is just now getting a greenish tint - most noticeably when watching B&W films. I guess my set hasn't been on quite as much as everyone else's - the original lamp was just replaced late last year. At any rate, I'm not too happy to see that Sony's pulling back on the replacement program. I've always had Sony televisions, and I'm still using a CRT from 1987 in one of the bedrooms. I certainly thought my XBR would last more than 5 years. I doubt I'll even bother to call them about a replacement - I think this is my last Sony product.

I feel your pain. Sony has been my favorite electronics brand since, oh, about seven years old. ..Literally used to blow my saved up allowances and b-day gifts on subsequent versions of walk-mans and ever improving headphones.

I have very fond memories of begging my mom to buy me a cool little Sony portable B&W TV/radio at Sears way back when. My grandmother owned at least six Beta VCRs back in the day, several Trinitrons and a couple Sony Laser Disc players. To me Sony was the peak of electronics perfection, every other brand seemed undesirable and even low class.

So many Sony products were purchased over the years, I am practically swimming in them. The majority of stuff from the 80's and early to mid 90's still works flawlessly to this day. That said, just about everything from the late 90's on is either flaky or just plain unreliable refuse.

I'm permanently done with them now also. Short of continuing to purchase Blu-ray discs (a necessary evil), there will be absolutely no more Sony widgets purchased by this big spender. My confidence in them has completely withered, and that warm 'n fuzzy "It's a Sony!" feeling is forever lost.
post #23699 of 23983
+1
post #23700 of 23983
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccrider2 View Post

+1

Thanks Chris. FYI I now have most of the parts needed to tackle the LED project. Still waiting on one of the AC to DC converter boards.

Despite my disappointment with the TV, it's still worth keeping around as a back-up. I don't see myself getting rid of it anytime soon, especially if the LED experiment is successful.

To tell you the truth I'm just a stone's throw away from buying a new DLP. It's a shame that the metrosexual thin-is-in craze is killing that market. Mitsubishi is the only way to go now and that's fine with me.
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