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Official 2005 Sony KDSR-50/60XBR1 SXRD Owner's Thread - Page 793

post #23761 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_M14 View Post

Has anyone tried to use a UV filter on the original light? The glass UV photographic filters are inexpensive and may be worth a try to get more life out of the OB?

Hi Paul, this was my first idea. I abandoned it after extensive research of over a dozen popular filters. I became aware that none of the commercially available astronomical or photographic UV filters are very effective at blocking substantial UVA, B, or C.

Even those that claim ~98% efficiency are BS. Many of them don't actually block any UV wavelengths at all !

It's essentially an industry wide scam that professional astronomers and photographers are aware of. UV filters that will actually do the job properly are very expensive.

Another issue is that even if most of the UV is filtered, the remainder that slips into a polarized light system (aka LCoS/SXRD) is still extremely damaging. When light is polarized, its energy potential increases throughout the entire spectrum (but especially towards blue and shorter wavelengths). Even a small amount of stray polarized UV is very energetic and will cause accumulated damage.

Quote:


KewlK have you got anywhere with the LED project?

I was considering releasing a parts list for those of you who want to carry on the torch. I barely have the time to tie my shoe laces lately due to overwhelming family responsibilities at this time.

This is also compounded by the fact that my SXRD is elevated on a palette, partially buried in the basement. It all started when the washing machine went...don't ask.

Finally, the LED conversion will not be practical for your average Joe. Even if I got around to posting perfect step by step instructions, the risk for user error will be high.

Also a thorough recalibration will be a must. Although I was able to perfectly match the exact lumen output of our specific UHP in 120w mode, light temperature (although close) is not spot-on.
post #23762 of 23981
While watching ESPN with the DRC mode on Cinemotion the information scroll on the bottom of the screen is jerky while it is smooth with the DRC mode on Mode 1 or 2. Has anyone else had this? I have the 60" xbr1.
post #23763 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

.....Another issue is that even if most of the UV is filtered, the remainder that slips into a polarized light system (aka LCoS/SXRD) is still extremely damaging. When light is polarized, its energy potential increases throughout the entire spectrum (but especially towards blue and shorter wavelengths). Even a small amount of stray polarized UV is very energetic and will cause accumulated damage........

I just read about cataracts and UV.
Does the plastic front screen block UV?
I'm in front of this beast 15 hrs a day.
My eyes are getting worse and I'm wondering if Sony is to blame.

Anyone else out there with an SXRD and cataracts?
post #23764 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by cinquemano View Post

While watching ESPN with the DRC mode on Cinemotion the information scroll on the bottom of the screen is jerky while it is smooth with the DRC mode on Mode 1 or 2. Has anyone else had this? I have the 60" xbr1.

Yes, I remember that happening occasionally. What cable/sat STB or DVR model are you using? ESPN broadcasts natively in 720p. I presume that you have your STB set to automatically convert all resolutions to 1080i (CineMotion is rightly disabled for progressive signals). The STB's internal 720p->1080i conversion process is what's causing the issue.

CineMotion is getting tricked into applying 3:2 pulldown to what should be processed as standard 60fps video. There are a few ways to deal with the issue and you already discovered one of them. BTW, Mode 1 is inferior to Mode 2. Mode 2 deinterlacing performance is much better.

Use _one_ of the following tactics:
-Temporarily toggle DRC to Mode 2
-Set your STB to output all resolutions natively. Leave DRC set to CineMotion to automatically handle 480i/1080i content.
-See if there is an option for automatic film (pulldown) detection within the STB's option menu. If so, enable it, and continue to output at 1080i. Leave DRC at Mode 2
post #23765 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccrider2 View Post

I just read about cataracts and UV.
Does the plastic front screen block UV?
I'm in front of this beast 15 hrs a day.
My eyes are getting worse and I'm wondering if Sony is to blame.

Anyone else out there with an SXRD and cataracts?

Chris this was an on again/off again personal concern I had kept to myself.

I don't have the right test equipment to verify or disprove the possible issue.

The outer screen is an acrylic polymer fresnel/lenticular double layer. Basically the same material that plexiglass is made of. Unfortunately most acrylics only block about 60% UV A&B.

Despite that, think of all the multi-coated components that the light must pass through prior to projection onto the backside of the screen. These would include the LCD substrate layers of the SXRD chips themselves, initial UV filter, polarizer, beam splitters, dichroic mirrors/polarizing filters and compound projection lens.

I speculate that the blue polarizing filter (along with the SXRD chip within the blue light path) would absorb just about all of the stray UV, acting as sacrificial buffers.

My eyes are still fine and I used the SXRD additionally as a PC monitor for years.
post #23766 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccrider2 View Post

I just read about cataracts and UV.
Does the plastic front screen block UV?
I'm in front of this beast 15 hrs a day.
My eyes are getting worse and I'm wondering if Sony is to blame.

Anyone else out there with an SXRD and cataracts?

Yeah, I already had cataract surgery and I have an SXRD that used to be my main TV. It is now relegated to the bedroom for occasional duty. My wife also had cataract surgery.

Let me state that we never spent over 5-6 hours a day watching TV and part of that, we would be doing something else, like reading.

Also, we are both in our mid-70's, so I really doubt Sony had anything to do with our cataracts.

Seems to me you spend too much time in front of the TV...15 hours a day! You need to either get polarized glasses or get a life :-) just kidding!
post #23767 of 23981
TSM finally got the light engines for the KDS55A2000 back in stock, so I ordered one immediately. I remember seeing one rather detailed guide with pictures how to change it, anyone happened to bookmark that and can easily paste it here?

*realized that I posted this in the wrong thread. Moving along to the A2000 one.
post #23768 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Yes, I remember that happening occasionally. What cable/sat STB or DVR model are you using? ESPN broadcasts natively in 720p. I presume that you have your STB set to automatically convert all resolutions to 1080i (CineMotion is rightly disabled for progressive signals). The STB's internal 720p->1080i conversion process is what's causing the issue.

CineMotion is getting tricked into applying 3:2 pulldown to what should be processed as standard 60fps video. There are a few ways to deal with the issue and you already discovered one of them. BTW, Mode 1 is inferior to Mode 2. Mode 2 deinterlacing performance is much better.

Use _one_ of the following tactics:
-Temporarily toggle DRC to Mode 2
-Set your STB to output all resolutions natively. Leave DRC set to CineMotion to automatically handle 480i/1080i content.
-See if there is an option for automatic film (pulldown) detection within the STB's option menu. If so, enable it, and continue to output at 1080i. Leave DRC at Mode 2


Thanks Kewlk
I am using a Directv HR22-100 HD DVR. I will try the options you listed.
Kevin
post #23769 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by KewlK View Post

Chris this was an on again/off again personal concern I had kept to myself.

I don't have the right test equipment to verify or disprove the possible issue.

The outer screen is an acrylic polymer fresnel/lenticular double layer. Basically the same material that plexiglass is made of. Unfortunately most acrylics only block about 60% UV A&B.

Despite that, think of all the multi-coated components that the light must pass through prior to projection onto the backside of the screen. These would include the LCD substrate layers of the SXRD chips themselves, initial UV filter, polarizer, beam splitters, dichroic mirrors/polarizing filters and compound projection lens.

I speculate that the blue polarizing filter (along with the SXRD chip within the blue light path) would absorb just about all of the stray UV, acting as sacrificial buffers.

My eyes are still fine and I used the SXRD additionally as a PC monitor for years.

Thanks, that eases some concern.
Besides regular TV watching I'm about 8 ft in front of this beast most of the day as I also use it as a computer monitor. Guess my 62 yr old eyes are just getting a bit old.
post #23770 of 23981
OK ... so the lamp went out, he bought another but the housing was slightly off so it would not light the lamp.

He tried to remove the chassis to the service position which tore the ribbon to the optical bloc.

I swapped the lamp from the new housing that doesn't work to his old housing that does which lit the lamp, but no picture because of the torn ribbon.

I bought a new ribbon and replaced it and now when we fire up a video source, on any input ... doesn't matter, the picture starts as a vertical bar on the left then it switches to a fuzzy picture, then to a blue picture, then to the actual picture for a second or two then it goes back to the vertical bar.

menu just wipes out the picture all together.
If we switch to picture in picture, the same video source stays up longer.


Any thoughts?
Wrong lamp?
Other bad cables?
post #23771 of 23981
Greetings fellow KDS-R50/R60XBR1 owners. I have had my KDS-R60XBR1 since October 11, 2005. My original lamp lasted Approx 5 years 7 months and 10 days from when I first got the TV. After that lamp died, I ordered a replacement lamp from a dealer on Amazon.com for $106 but unfortunately when I received it I discovered it wasn't an original OEM lamp made by Phillips or whoever else makes them for Sony. So naturally I wasn't holding my breath for it to last as long as the original. I was right and unfortunately the replacement lamp just died on me today after just only 8 months or use.

So, I want to get the genuine replacement lamp. What is the best source for these? I see Sony has them for $250 (ouch). I see a dealer on Amazon that has original Phillips made lamps. Here is the link...

http://www.amazon.com/Philips-Lamp-H...8686432&sr=1-2

Anywhere else someone can recommend?
post #23772 of 23981
For the real Sony replacement lamp, they're $199.95 with free shipping from B&H, a dealer that is above reproach, and is a Sony dealer so they don't sell third-party fakes like Amazon does.

B&H Photo Video
post #23773 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by kucharsk View Post

For the real Sony replacement lamp, they're $199.95 with free shipping from B&H, a dealer that is above reproach, and is a Sony dealer so they don't sell third-party fakes like Amazon does.

B&H Photo Video

I have purchased camera gear from B&H Photo before, I didn't even think to check there for a lamp for my TV. Just ordered one from them and with the free UPS ground shipping it should be here Friday. Thanks!
post #23774 of 23981
I can't figure out where this piece goes.
MY OB was bad, I took apart the TV per Adrian's photos on page 702 (Thanks!), but somewhere along the line, this piece appeared. I think it was around the time when I was removing the lamp or ballast. Now I've reassembled the TV, but without this piece, and the unit won't work. I get the 3 blinking red lights. Everything seems to be connected tightly, except for this missing piece. Can anyone help?
Attachment 240568
LL
post #23775 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by DadOfTwins View Post

I can't figure out where this piece goes.
MY OB was bad, I took apart the TV per Adrian's photos on page 702 (Thanks!), but somewhere along the line, this piece appeared. I think it was around the time when I was removing the lamp or ballast. Now I've reassembled the TV, but without this piece, and the unit won't work. I get the 3 blinking red lights. Everything seems to be connected tightly, except for this missing piece. Can anyone help?
Attachment 240568

Do you have the service manual? If not, shoot me a private message and I can send it to you. I gave the service manual a quick look and couldn't locate that wire, but I might have just overlooked it. Unfortunately the resolution in the service manual PDF makes it hard to see the details of the different parts.
post #23776 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by DadOfTwins View Post

I can't figure out where this piece goes.
MY OB was bad, I took apart the TV per Adrian's photos on page 702 (Thanks!), but somewhere along the line, this piece appeared. I think it was around the time when I was removing the lamp or ballast. Now I've reassembled the TV, but without this piece, and the unit won't work. I get the 3 blinking red lights. Everything seems to be connected tightly, except for this missing piece. Can anyone help?
Attachment 240568

I wouldn't really call it a part. It's what Sony calls a 'Lead tie', it's a thing you put under a screw and then you use the blue or black part as a twist tie to organize wires. There are usually one of them on each of the four ballast screws, and other assembly screws. Don't worry about it.

Three red on an R-XBR1 is a lamp cover error. There is an interlock on the lamp hole door so that you can't run the tv without it in place or fully in place. If the cover isn't on, put it on. If it is on, take it off and figure out why the part of the cover that pushes on the microswitch to tell the tv that it's on, isn't doing so.
post #23777 of 23981
I've double-checked the lamp and lamp cover, and now it is flashing nine times.
post #23778 of 23981
According to the Service Manual, 9x Flashing Red is:

Panel error When there is not ack from the temperature sensor on the S1, S2 and C board or IIC line connector (CN2303: ASU board, CN7956: DSU board, CN6901: C board)is not seated securely. it is monitored by DE-micro

Can anybody translate this into English?
post #23779 of 23981
I finally got my KDS-60R2000 (Australian model of the XBR1) open and yoinked the OB out. I'm glad I didn't go ahead and order that polariser from TriState. Everything on this set is different compared to all the info out there.

The LCDs look like this: http://www.allprotvparts.com/product...d_product=3926

I undid the blue one initially and checked out what I think was the polariser.. Looked fine. http://i.imgur.com/31a30.jpg

I then detached the green and looked at that polariser and it was completely clear. The red & blue have a tint when you look at them at certain angles but not the green. I'm guessing this is why the picture on my set is like this...

http://i.imgur.com/k7DS8.jpg

So I switched the polarisers on the green & blue to test. Now I can't get the TV back together. The lamp holder assembly is so irritating - specifically sliding the power thing back in underneath.
post #23780 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by genxor View Post

I finally got my KDS-60R2000 (Australian model of the XBR1) open and yoinked the OB out. I'm glad I didn't go ahead and order that polariser from TriState. Everything on this set is different compared to all the info out there.

The LCDs look like this: http://www.allprotvparts.com/product...d_product=3926

I undid the blue one initially and checked out what I think was the polariser.. Looked fine. http://i.imgur.com/31a30.jpg

I then detached the green and looked at that polariser and it was completely clear. The red & blue have a tint when you look at them at certain angles but not the green. I'm guessing this is why the picture on my set is like this...

http://i.imgur.com/k7DS8.jpg

So I switched the polarisers on the green & blue to test. Now I can't get the TV back together. The lamp holder assembly is so irritating - specifically sliding the power thing back in underneath.

What is for sale on the tristate website are 3-LCD panels and input polarizers, your tv is an SXRD LCOS.

The appearance of the input polarizers varies because there's more there than a simple polarization filter. The input polarizers in the green path tend to look that way. When input polarizers are damaged there tends to be an obvious burned area in the center in a 16x9 frame. I've never seen a Sony input polarizer in the green path or the red path with any damage. See Linke's site for examples of what bad input polarizers look like:

http://sites.google.com/site/sonylcd...tical-block-pa

You should never remove an input polarizer if it doesn't need replacement. They are adjusted in the factory, notice the slotted holes that allow for a few degrees of rotation. If you lose that adjustment you will lose good blacks.
post #23781 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by DadOfTwins View Post

According to the Service Manual, 9x Flashing Red is:

Panel error When there is not ack from the temperature sensor on the S1, S2 and C board or IIC line connector (CN2303: ASU board, CN7956: DSU board, CN6901: C board)is not seated securely. it is monitored by DE-micro

Can anybody translate this into English?

That error tends to be a connection error, likely caused by a misconnected cable between the boards you have listed. You can figure out which boards those are and then which cables those are, but that's not much different than simply pulling it apart to the stage you were at previously and putting it back together again being sure to not miss a connector, or miss fully mating a connector.

If you don't look very closely at the connectors it's also possible to mate them with one end turned around 180deg.
post #23782 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckF. View Post

What is for sale on the tristate website are 3-LCD panels and input polarizers, your tv is an SXRD LCOS.

The appearance of the input polarizers varies because there's more there than a simple polarization filter. The input polarizers in the green path tend to look that way. When input polarizers are damaged there tends to be an obvious burned area in the center in a 16x9 frame. I've never seen a Sony input polarizer in the green path or the red path with any damage. See Linke's site for examples of what bad input polarizers look like:

http://sites.google.com/site/sonylcd...tical-block-pa

You should never remove an input polarizer if it doesn't need replacement. They are adjusted in the factory, notice the slotted holes that allow for a few degrees of rotation. If you lose that adjustment you will lose good blacks.

Thanks Chuck. I compared against that site when I got it out and was a little worried because I can't see anything similar to the pics on the site. It looks absolutely flawless so I'm not sure where to go with it now. People using polarising film in this thread fixed their Panasonics with similar symptoms but all the pics in that thread show "burnt out" polarisers as well so I'm not sure it will do much good on mine, unless there is damage not visible to the naked eye.

Failing that I suppose its time to track down a replacement LCOS.
post #23783 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by genxor View Post

Thanks Chuck. I compared against that site when I got it out and was a little worried because I can't see anything similar to the pics on the site. It looks absolutely flawless so I'm not sure where to go with it now. People using polarising film in this thread fixed their Panasonics with similar symptoms but all the pics in that thread show "burnt out" polarisers as well so I'm not sure it will do much good on mine, unless there is damage not visible to the naked eye.

Failing that I suppose its time to track down a replacement LCOS.

What do you mean by " It looks absolutely flawless"?

That link is to a Panasonic thread. Panasonic only made 3-LCD's. You need to stay away from 3-LCD threads, because SXRD is nothing like 3-LCD. You don't have a polarizer problem.

We've never come to a clear consensus here as to what causes the greenout problem on an SXRD, and Sony hasn't exactly been forthcoming. It's not a degenerative problem, on the SXRD's this problem happens suddenly. That's very different from typical polarizer and LCD panel problems on 3-LCD, which start out trivial and get worse over a period of many months, and you can easily see the damage to the parts.

I tend to think that it is a fracture of some of the layered, glued-together prisms in the optical X-prism, but that's just my theory. Other posters have simply taken them apart and put them back together and found that they worked again, which makes no sense unless the green path LCD panel wasn't plugged in properly. Some have claimed that replacing the BLUE-path LCD panel fixes the greenout problem, which also makes no sense.

I'm told that Tristate has begun rebuilding SXRD LE's, so they must have figured it out.
post #23784 of 23981
..and here I was thinking it would be an easy fix. Hah.

What I meant by "flawless" was there was no burn marks(?) or imperfections as shown in the pictures on that site, but since its a different technology the problem must lie elsewhere, as you said.

I found a place selling the small LCD(?) LCOS(?) units for $50 each and another selling a whole OB for about $130 shipped to Australia. I think I'll give it all a blast of compressed air then put it all back together to see how it goes. Failing that I suppose I'll order the OB.

FWIW the set has about 11.5k hours on it and the lamp has about 1100hrs. Tristate are charging $299 for a repair or $379 for a replacement of the whole LE. If I had the money to get that done I probably would.

Just found someone giving away a set locally with a blue blob problem. Might go pick that up so I have some spare parts. Just a hassle borrowing a truck to go get it.

edit: Put it all back together. Now I have bad convergence as well as the green/yellow. About a quarter of the screen is duller than it should be too. Wish this thing wasn't such a pain to get undone, makes fixing the convergence a task. Took me a good 90mins to put everything back in its place. I mean, not that there's a point in fixing convergence at the moment.
post #23785 of 23981
I still love my trusty XBR1. I still wish there was a 75" XBR3 (damned the LCD for taking the name).

Eyeballing the 75" Laserview the last couple years but until I just recently got the 4 blinking red lights and did the DIY (in another thread), couldn't justify taking serious steps towards it.

KewlK, your LED project sounded amazing. Any progress or did you give it up?
post #23786 of 23981
Just ripped my tv apart, not so bad if you ask me, ordered the part and now waiting for it so I can put it back on
post #23787 of 23981
Thanks Chuck.
I've taken the thing apart (yet again!), checked all the connections. I am now getting sound, but no picture. The lamp appears to be working -- If I take off the back cover, I can see that the lamp is on. Also, If I turn off all the lights in the room, I can see a faint glow on the set. But I can't get a picture, can't even get the menu to appear. I don't have any blinking red lights, just the steady green light. I've taken it apart again, and double-checked all the connections, still no picture.

Just to recap, all this is for my R50XBR1, after having the OB fixed by Tri-State.
post #23788 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by DadOfTwins View Post

Thanks Chuck.
I've taken the thing apart (yet again!), checked all the connections. I am now getting sound, but no picture. The lamp appears to be working -- If I take off the back cover, I can see that the lamp is on. Also, If I turn off all the lights in the room, I can see a faint glow on the set. But I can't get a picture, can't even get the menu to appear. I don't have any blinking red lights, just the steady green light. I've taken it apart again, and double-checked all the connections, still no picture.

Just to recap, all this is for my R50XBR1, after having the OB fixed by Tri-State.

The fact that the symptoms have changed this time, from the last time you put it together makes me think you are still missing something.

Are there any cable assemblies that you removed both ends of and set aside somewhere? When you have the modules out have you made a list of all cables that there are to connect, and checked them off as you reassemble? Have you examined all the cables and where they mate and understand how the locks work?

On some of these sets there are two harnesses made of very tiny blue wires with connectors that are very tricky to mate and can be reversed. I can't remember if the XBR1 has these.

You said that this LE was rebuilt by Tristate, what were the TV symptoms that led you to send it to Tristate?
post #23789 of 23981
Quote:
Originally Posted by UxiSXRD View Post

I still love my trusty XBR1. I still wish there was a 75" XBR3 (damned the LCD for taking the name).

Eyeballing the 75" Laserview the last couple years but until I just recently got the 4 blinking red lights and did the DIY (in another thread), couldn't justify taking serious steps towards it.

KewlK, your LED project sounded amazing. Any progress or did you give it up?

Hi Uxi, it's been awhile. No, I didn't give it up.

I know exactly how to implement the design after thorough studying of the schematics. Just don't have the need, will, or time to proceed..the project is simply on ice for now.

My SXRD has been in storage for months, have it all wrapped up and tucked away on a plywood shelf. It went down two days after finding a Sammy DLP HL61A750 ('08 LED model_no color wheel_3D Ready).

You know how it goes, new toys, new prerogatives. I've upgraded this Sammy's power supply and improved its cooling efficiency. Now, it is finally a TV built to last.

Very impressed with it after some tweaks and fine tuning within the SM. No longer see RBE anymore (the brain eventually learns to compensate).

Still waiting on a Mitsu 3DC-1000 checkerboard 3D converter. DLPs dominate at 3D. No blurring nor crosstalk problems like LCDs and plasmas suffer from.

The LEDs in the Sammy sequentially pulse at approx 2.9kHz which is equal to a blazing fast color wheel at 48X. The Mitsu LaserVue has completely eliminated RBE by pulsing the lasers at 10kHz (that is equivalent to a theoretical 166X color wheel). Keep in mind that wobulation is a non-issue, as it does not detract from picture fidelity whatsoever. All 1:1 pixel tests will pass with flying colors...pun intended.

Wobulation has not been shown to "overwork" the DMD either. Rated life is 100,000 hours, and a cinch to replace if a failure were to occur regardless.

Sure, there's no reason to ditch a functioning SXRD. They are still fine displays (the ones with decent color uniformity that is). It's sad to see where the market has gone in regards to RPTV. Personally, I'm still not impressed with current LCD "advancements". LCD pixels in motion are still a blurry, dithered mess to my eyes. However, there is some very impressive display tech close on the horizon.
post #23790 of 23981
Definitely been awhile. Turning into a CSR thread had to check out for awhile, though really haven't been posting or even lurking that much anymore. Going through the thread I saw your project and thought it had great potential. Ah if only Sony would have stayed with it. LED SXRD RP sounds like it could have been a nice price niche, if not also a factor in the XBR enthusiast line.

Agree wholeheartedly. I have a 52" LCD in my bedroom. It does appear to pop more than my XBR1, but I love the blacks and... "theatrical" quality to the XBR1. It just seesm to have "shrunk" in the years of ownership. The form factor itself has no intrinsic appeal to me, though.
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