The Official Stewart Film Screen thread. - Page 43

Very Good advice....

hmmm.....that's interesting advice.
I've never heard people suggest going with image width and height over diagonal when speaking of sizes. I've heard people use those dims to calculate seating distance and a few other things but not when referring to images.

In the years that i've been doing this, i've only had people use the image width over diagonal when working with native 2.35 screens.

Not saying that you are wrong or right, just that i've never heard it said like that before.

Either way.....good advice on the image size!! If I were designing his room or recommending things, i would go a little bigger than 82" diag.

Benito

Hi,

I know you recommended the Epson over the Panny projector but if I stay with the Panny (as this is my current choice) will the Panny give me just as good a display on the 82 as it will on the 92 ST130 G3. Don't you have to have very high end projectors as the screen gets bigger diagonally? Should I be purchasing a 2.35:1 screen or a 16:9 screen when using the Panny? This is a dedicated HT room but there will be regular TV viewing as well.

What HDMI cable should be used with the Panny as far as protocol/standard? I assume HDMI 1.3? How many HDMI cables should be ran back from the projector to my Preamp/Anthem D2V?

Are there any 3D projectors available yet worth looking at? I don't have any experience with screen/projector so please bear with the excess questions.

Not sure if I'm the best person to help since my theater is still under construction. I am waiting on a Studiotech 130 G3 120" and a Panny 4000. Went back and forth between this and the Epson 8700 for more than a month. While I preferred the Epson in most ways, I picked the Panny for the motorized zoom and memory presets. I will be mounting the projector on the ceiling and this was a major difference between 2 projectors that are very similar in may ways. Probably would have gone with the Epson if I was not mounting it on the ceiling. I did a great deal of research and came to the conclusion that this projector would work well with the ST 130 but as I said I don't have it yet so I hope I was right. I went 2.4 because I really wanted the CinemaScope effect. At 120" the screen will still allow for a pretty big picture when viewing sports, etc in 16:9. If your screen is 82" and you go 2.4 you may. not be happy with the size of a 16:9 image. It really depends upon your taste and what type of content you will be watching most. As for the cables, I always have extra when I am running through walls, ceilings. I put a few CAT6 cables up there as well. You never know...

Thanks for the response. I'm not sure I really understand the difference between a 16:9 and a 2.35:1 screen other than I guess the latter doesn't show the black bars since it is tailor made for cinemascope? What about regular TV viewing, would it be the opposite in that a 16:9 will display high def & SD TV content better as oppose to a 2.35:1. I'm thinking of the 92 inch ST130 G3 as oppose to the 82 inch.

What about the Sony VPL-VWPRO1 vs the Panny 4000 in terms of brightness, size and performance; in particular, with the ST130 G3 screen.

16:9 gives you an aspect ratio of 1.78. A 1.78 screen is 1.78" wide per 1" of height and a 2.4 screen is 2.4" wide per 1" of height. I found that most (not all) of the newer movies I like are CinemaScope 2.4 aspect. I went with a 2.4 screen so these movies would fill the screen as large as possible. A 2.4 aspect screen that is 120" wide would be 50" high. When watch a movie it will fill this screen. When I watch TV (HD 16:9) which would be 1.78 aspect I will be limited by the height if my screen. The picture will still be 50" high but it will only be 89" wide (50 x 1.78). The screen is still 120" wide so there will be 15.5" black bars on either side of the image. Whichever aspect screen you choose you will have some "dead space" when watching content which is in a different aspect. What I liked about the Panny 4000 is that you can zoom and focus when you switch from one source to another with the remote rather than adjusting the projector directly. It even let's you save settings so you can have one for 2.4 and one for 1.78. This way you just press a button and the projector will adjust for the content you are watching. As best I can tell it was the only projector in this price range with this feature. I don't have any knowledge of the Sony you mention

to be honest....i don't think there's much of a comparison between the Pro1 and the Panny 4000. The Pro1 is an all around better projector. But it should be for the difference in price.
Sony just had a price increase on the Pro1 so if you can find it for the old price, i'd jump on it.

Benito

Okay, the biggest I can go with is 92 inches and I will be using the Panny 4000. The room is painted a dark chocolate Benjamin Moore French Press color with the ceiling being a ligther Coastal Path tan/beige. The ligthing is controlled but some light will get in from the basement windows during the day. The projector will be about 14 feet from the screen.

Is the StudioTek 130 G3 still the one to go with?

Paint the ceiling darker, invest in blackout curtains, and the 130 will be perfect.

Nah, I can't make that compromise. Just won't be allowed plus it would literally look like a cave. In light of this, is the StuioTek 130 still the one or go with a Gray or Fire hawk screen?

Here's my experience with the ST130G3. When I first got my projector, a JVC RS40, my HT room was all painted dark brown with dark carpet etc... Perfect colors (short of black) for a HT. The room has 3 faily large windows with 2" wood blinds. Until I installed blackout curtains a fews days after, the room was NOT usable during the day.

My own experience.

Highly recommend the Firehawk material over anything else.

The Studiotek would be great but as zbroke mentioned, you would really need to get that room as dark as possible.

We are authorized Stewart dealers so if you are interested in pricing, feel free to contact us!

Benito

Thanks guys. I think I will opt for the Firehawk G3 then as that seems like the screen based on the fact that I don't want to be devoid of light everytime I sit to watch a TV or a movie.

Anybody have any experience here with the Firehawk G3 and the Panny 4000?

Buddy of mine has the Firehawk G3 material but with the Panny 3000. Looked pretty good in his living room.

Any specific questions?

Benito

Just wanted to make sure my dealer was recommending the Firehawke and not the Grayhawke. Would the Grayhawke work also? What's their difference?

Get samples. I find the Firehawk material to not have the gain claimed for many installs. In most ceiling mount situations the StudioTek 130 will be much brighter..

I understand what you mean and then I'd recommend you dont compromise by getting the studiotek. The nice gain and lambertian surface will just mean you wash our your image in a room with ambient light and a bright ceiling.

At the size you are talking about, assuming a ceiling mounted projector, the firehawk gain should be fine.

Samples are useful but can be hard to use objectively.


+1

Hi Guys
I am looking for a 135" elctric screen (LuxusA) if anybody knows where I can find the best deal
Thanks

Have you tried us yet?
Feel free to contact us, we can help!

Benito

I went back and forth as well. Just put up a Studiotech AT 127" with the panny 4000 ceiling mounted. I have 2 rows of seats 12' & 18' away. Each row has 2 high hats with 120 watt bulbs on dimmers. Watch the Yankee game with lights on ~50% and the image was amazing. I could have had the lights on brighter if I chose.
I'm very happy with my choice over the FH or BD given my set up. No windows, light control. My only hesitation on the ST was the ability to keep some light on when watching sports etc. In my current set up it is no problem at all

I would definitely recommend working with Benito. Great price, even better service

I agree with this statement. Lighting on dimmers, as long as it doesn't project directly on the screen is ok (to a certain degree). Daylight however is a killer.

I'm not sure if this has already been asked, but I'm curious if a Firehawk g3 will be compatible with any of jvc's newer 3d projectors. I saw someone comment it wouldn't be an issue with the ST130 and although I won't be changing out pj for awhile, I really don't want to replace the screen material.

Stewart is coming out with a high gain screen that would be better in 3d.

http://www.stewartfilmscreen.com/res...sidential.html

They recently came out with the new 5D material which is geared for 2D and also passive 3D.
If you are worried if the Studiotek 130 will work with 3D, you are ok. If you are asking about a new skin for your existing frame, you can look into the Firehawk LS material....better for 3D than the Firehawk G3.

Benito

I have lived happily with my Firehawk 92" Horizonal Electrimask (maybe G2) for 5 years until I move to my new house with bigger room W15' x D22' x H9.5'. The screen seems to be too small and I plan to replace it with 110" size. My current projector is JVC RS-20. I built RPG diffusor on the Front wall for 2-channel optimization, so I cannot use fixed/on-wall screen. The room tone color is in dark Grey both wall and ceiling. Only 1 window which has the double curtain to control the light.

This is my 1st time to change the screen, so I don't have much experience on it and looking for the right screen:
- I can't live without electrimask for 2.35:1 movie
- I plan to replace my projector with JVC RS-60 or new gen next year.
- I may sometimes watch 3-D movies after changing the projector.
- Should I stay with Firehawk model like G3 or change to StudioTek130 G3 or any other screen models?

Many thanks for any suggestion.

Will your speaker placement require you to do microperf?
With that room, i guess it all comes down to how much light you can eliminate from coming through that window. If you can get most or all of it, definitely go with a Studiotek 130. If a lot of light is coming through, go with the Firehawk G3.

Benito

My Maxx2 is placed on the side and around 3' in front of the screen. I am quite concerned about sound set up and my current speaker placement would allow 110" max but not sure if microperf is required or not.

The double curtain could eliminate over 95% of the light (just small glimpse underneath the curtain).

Just notice the new Silver 5D model good for both 2D and 3D.
Would that be an interesting choice if I watch 3D sometimes?

I would suggest you get some samples. Me personally, i would recommend the Studiotek 130 for your application but without personally being there, it's hard to make a firm recommendation.

The Silver 5D material is amazing if you are doing standard 2D and passive 3D. So it really depends on what type of 3D you will be using.

Benito