I have not posted in quite some time and never in this thread that I can remember. I have a snapper/ fixed frame FireHawk G3, made in 2007. I had it rolled up for a year and recently put it back up. It had some terrible impressions/wrinkles in the screen from being rolled up in the original packaging for too long. When I rolled it up and stored it, I had used all the original packing material and rolled it up as close to original packing as possible.
Well, it has been 2 weeks and about 99% of the "impressions" from MY bad roll-up (LOL!) have gone away! How freaking cool is that? Stewart screens are awesome. I might take a blow dryer to the backside of it eventually to get that last 1% but the longer I leave it up, the more I won't need to use that blow dryer! Edited by Stan-Lee - 6/9/13 at 9:52pm
There is a method to why we do that. The BRIC control system is fully flexible. So you can program any setting into any preset. With the 11 button control and or hand held IR remote, you have six addressable preset locations. They do not necessarily need to correspond to the labeling on either the wall mounted control or the remote. For instance you can set the masking at 1.78 and store that location on the 1.33 or 2.35 or the 1.78 address. You also have the red button which is "home". Pressing home, sends the masks off stage to the stored position. That's your 2.40. So then when you go to 2.35, if you do so without zooming, you'll have the masks in a very small bit on the screen. Then you go on through the other presets, down to 1.33.
We set it up so that you are not wasting a pre-set on the fully open condition, which is set by the home button. You can put anything you want into any preset.
We could change the art work on the 11 button control and remote, but it's expensive and 99 percent of the customers use the factory supplied switch and remote for setup initially on the first day, then they go into serial integration pages via Crestron, Control 4, AMX, ELAN take your pick.
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thanks for the reply, my installer is having trouble with the top left corner being not square, so thats is why i wasn't sure what 2.4 was, zero masking? a bit of masking? etc. If the screen is going to be all the way open for 2.4, then either he is doing something wrong, or there is a defect. As all the way open, in the top left there is a defect.
I have the same "problem", and have seen it with a few screens.. It's not that the screen isn't square (this you can easily verify with a .. square) , the problem is that it's VERY hard to get the screen surface and the projector lens perfectly parallel. I've managed to get it quite close, and I assume this is why most screens include the black border to account for some minor level of overshoot. In residential construction there hardly is anything square and level all throughout, so you're starting from a fairly difficult position, and to top it off, there are tools to measure pitch/yaw, but nothing to perfectly measure rotation.
I don't think I've ever seen a completely perfect installation, though you can and should get pretty darn close if you spend the time.
A fundamental thing to check is lens shift utilization. Depending on the quality of the lens, if shift exceeds a certain point, you can see something that looks like a geometric shriveling of one or both corners of the image. Looking forward to the images. Thank you for purchasing Stewart Filmscreen products!
I've got the opportunity of buying a 2nd hand studiotek 130 g3 screen for about half the rrp. I'm just wondering if there is anything I should be concerned about buying a 2nd hand had studiotek? It is less than a year old. Am I likely to have any issues with it? The original owner has taken good care of it. I'm thinking in terms of tension etc.
I've always been careful to the point of paranoia about getting anything on my Stewart ST-130 screen.
Today a tiny little bug landed on two spots a couple inches apart on the screen. When I shooed the bug off the screen it seemed to have left two tiny little brown spots, probably the size of a very small grain of rice at most. I knew I probably would never notice them from my viewing seat, but just knowing the screen had been sullied bugged me.
I looked at the cleaning instructions for my screen. First I tried a super soft bristled brush on those spots (a camera lens brush) which didn't budge them. Then I heavily diluted a drop of dishwashing liquid in a clean bowl and using a Q-tip (to get the least possible amount of liquid on the screen) I dabbed each spot and the brown spots immediately want away. I dabbed the screen very carefully to dry.
But then when I moved back from the screen the area I just cleaned now looked like a slightly darkened smudge. Oh no!!! I thought maybe it just wasn't dry yet (and I put, like, microscopic amount of water/detergent for those spots). But an hour later they are still there, and I can see that damned dark spot - about the size of a silver dollar - on bright material. Looking closely at the dark area it is totally invisible and nothing seems amiss with the optical coating. It's only when I move my head back to about 3 feet (and beyond, to my viewing distance) that the dark bit suddenly becomes visible, from any angle). I'm so frustrated.
What do you think I've done to the screen and is there any advice on fixing it? Of course now I'm terrified at the idea of attempting any more cleaning. Given the care I took it's hard to imagine I could have scuffed or damaged the optical coating (I barely touched the screen with the Q-tip, no pressure at all).
Your dealer should be able to go to Stewart with your issue and help you resolve it. I work with Stewart on my customers behalf. While it would be easier for me to point the customer directly to Stewart, they really expect the dealers to be handling the issues in the field and reporting up when there's a problem.
If any small dust or something similar gets on the screen, I use a small piece of masking tape to quickly dab at the screen and pull it off. I actually roll the tape in a small diameter - enough for my finger to slip thru it. This works or me so far. Never had a bug smudge.
I was fortunate enough to get a steal of a deal on a pre-owned ST130 Electrimask screen about 2-months ago. Unfortunately, while being shipped it was butchered by Fed-Ex. The frame and components were intact but the black VELUX material that covers the frame borders and masking panels was a total disaster; looked like it had been dragged behind a car.
Thankfully, Mark Robertson and Hideki Okamoto from Stewart were able to supply me with brand new replacement VELUX material and I was able to reupholster the screen. After a bit of a hassle with Fed-Ex they honored my insurance claim and so began the task of bringing the screen back to its original glory. To achieve a factory finish took an incredible amount of time and patience but the results were worth the effort. Thanks again to Mark and especially Hideki; testament to the legendary Stewart customer service.
I'm really impressed with the new Neve 1.1 gain material - it's smack dab between SnoMatte ( unity gain - need a black velvet pit ) and StudioTek 130 G3. Super smooth, uniform and no surface texture. Very neutral.
Neutral screen surfaces that don't add artifacts to the picture is my Mantra ! I have come to hate screen artifacts, myself.