The Official Stewart Film Screen thread. - Page 7

Although not a newbie in many areas when I clicked over into the projector/screen forums I am in the deep end treading water!

I have decided on the IN76 for my projector.

It will be ceiling mounted between 10' -11' feet away from the screen. I think this is the recommended throw distance for this projector.

My viewing distance is 10' feet. I would like a 92" screen

It will be in my basement where light can be controlled but I would like my recessed lighting on in areas as people gather around the bar and I can have sports on the screen.

After reading this thread I think the FireHawk G2 might be the screen for such an area but I hope you can't see the screen through the source like one person pointed out.

Also, it was mentioned with the studio tek? (I think) that when the person stood up the screen got brighter? I would prefer consistency from center to left and right. My off center viewing is small. In other words I have a sectional that does not extend to far past center. However, off center viewing would be great for people standing by the bar or hanging out around the room.

Please recommend a screen for this application.

Thanks!

What size image are you specifying? Where is the bar lighting in relationship to the screen, and can all the other zones be extinguished? Firehawk is definitely a candidate but so could Grayhawk RS, but that would be tougher to light. The Grayhawk is a bit better at disappering. The use of Studiotek would be unlikely to succeed in conjunction with the bar lighting.

The idea of the gain changing a lot when a viewer stands, would be a phenomenon of a really short throw setup, with a lot of vertical shift, and sounds like a common scenario which applies to retro-reflective fabrics a bit more than angular reflective fabrics.

My preference is in general to favor the longer throw option within your room constraints, as this will normalize various angles, reducing hot spot artifacts and widening the available viewing cone for all 2nd choice seating locations in the room.

Thanks for considering Stewart Filmscreen!

I'm planning on getting a new Luxus Deluxe screen for my theatre.

Source is a Mitsubishi HC3 (1300 lumens) ceiling mounted 13' from the front wall.

I'm sitting almost directly under the projector.

The room is 16 ft wide and 18 ft front to back, 8ft ceilings.

Some ambient light from a hallway during the day. I can make it pitch black if I close the door.

I'd like a 1.78:1 format screen but don't know what material is best suited for my configuration. Also what size would work best? I'm thinking 100", is 110" too big?

Thanks,
Vernon

For what it's worth, I'm sitting 14'5" away with a 123" Firehawk and couldn't be happier! I'm using an Infocus IN76 and it is perfectly suited to the Firehawk's 1.25 gain material. Still best to watch during the evening hours and control the light though - but that's obvious. G'luck!

Does anyone know how well a Stewart Videomatte 200 MicroPerf screen would work with the Ruby? I'm interested in a higher gain THX screen.
Pro's/Con's?

I've got a Ruby in house right now. There is no moire at any size. I plan to test the lumen output over the range of the zoom lens, this week and see what sort of impact various throw distances will have. Ultramatte 200 is an excellent screen. I would recommend generally that longer throws work better with it, for minimization of hot-spot problems. One must also control ambient lighting to a higher degree in comparison with Firehawk.

Ultramatte 200 is an excellent screen. I would recommend generally that longer throws work better with it, for minimization of hot-spot problems. One must also control ambient lighting to a higher degree in comparison with Firehawk.[/quote]

Mark,

I was refering to the Videomatte 200 but since you mentioned it, what is the difference between the Videomatte 200 and the Ultramatte 200?

Also since the viewing cone is close to the Firehawk G2 (26deg. vs 24deg.) wouldn't these white screens reject ambient light much better than a Studiotek 130? I know gray rejects better than white but doesn't the viewing cone also help this?

I would like not to have a gray screen if possible since I like colors better on a white screen. But my room does have light colored walls.

The UM-200 and Videomatte are pretty similar in gain, but UM-200 is available in larger sizes. Videomatte, years ago had a gain factor of 2.2 but we lowered the gain as projectors improved.

As far as relative performance in ambient light, the higher gain fabrics will get you brighter rendition at the top of the dynamic range, so yes to a degree, the dark areas of image content are relatively darker. The difference is no where near the difference when a neutral density gray screen is used.

Remember that in ambient light, the cumulative light falling on the screen surface, from openings, or from cross reflected projection light, is the color black as you will see it, for all intents and purposes. Look at the screen as the projector warms up or in a fade to black, that is your system "black".

In high ambient light it will be a white color or muted non reflective white. Then we add collimated projected light above that level, to whatever level the output of the projector allows, of course multiplied by the relative gain factor. With a bright projector, you can get some dynamic range from "black"(actually dull white) to white, (brilliantly illuminated screen surface). But with a gray screen you get way blacker from the bottom of the range, and if the material is engineered to respond to collimated projected light, and is less responsive to light coming from less perpendicular angles, then black is much deeper.

The trade off is at the top of the dynamic range. It is possible to overhaul the gray tint of a screen with projected light power and get a calibrated white field. People argue this to death. It is done. A sample pasted on a whiter wall is not indicative of the performance of the screen, since cross reflection from the base material is still washing everything out. And granted you must have a more powerful projector to light a Grayhawk RS, than what is needed for a given foot Lambert performace level with a white screen. But if proper set-up is followed, an accurate picture is obtainable with either.

Firehawk is pretty good at rendering a believable white and providing blacks where other fabrics just cannot. It not as textbook white field accurate, but it makes projectors with reduced black level performance look much better, and salvages many rooms which otherwise wash out to unacceptable degrees. Images are believable and that is why people create Home Theatres.

Naturally it would be wonderful if all viewing environments were black floored, had black ceilings and walls, and so forth. It would also be nice if digital engines could acutally render a black field where IRE=0 was pitch black, few to none can. Gray screens help with both of these issues.

Thanks Mark,

Hows your testing of the Ruby coming along?

I've decided to buy a Ruby projector, mainly because of the RBE on DLP. My room dimensions are 21L x17Wx9H and is dedicated to home theater. I will be sitting 15-18 feet from the screen. I can control the light in the room and make it so I can't see my hand in front of my face, though I will not always view in complete darkness. I'm considering a Stewart Firehawk G2 deluxe screen wall, but I can't decide on the screen size. I've narrowed it down to 123" or 135" 16:9. Given the Ruby projector and given the room dimensions, which size should I go with? The projector will be ceiling mounted.



Bruce

Are you having risers built? I would not suggest any higher then the 123, 110 might even be more prefereable. Besides the feeling of being to close to a screen that could be to large you also want to consider by the screen size how high off the floor the screen will be mounted. The larger the screen the lower the front of the screen will be towards the floor making it harder for say a second row to see the whole screen.

Thanks for the reply.

I will not add risers, the room will have the appearance of a comfy family room as opposed to a theater (beanbags, couch, etc). How high off the floor the screen is mounted is important in that I want my center channel to be correctly positioned with the two main speakers which will be relatively tall( Vienna Acoustics Strauss). What is minimum/optimal distance from the ceiling to the top the screen?

Hey Mark (or anyone else).

I am setting up a new system in my basement.

Projector will be an Epson Pro 800 with a 92" diagonal 16:9 motorized Firehawk.

The situation I am concerned with is the heighth of the screen.

My ceiling will be just over 7'.

However I was wondering about recessing the screen into the ceiling. If I recess it about 6-8 inches, I will have actual viewing screen 6-8 inches from the ceiling and about 28 inches from the floor.

The ceiling now is constructed of 12" joists, so there is plenty of room above to mount.

This will give me room for my built in LCR below the screen.

Is this doable, or am I missing something?

You are not "locked in" to any specific amount of black-drop, when you order a Stewart Screen, so adding (or subtracting) a bit of drop to suit your situation, is as easy as asking your dealer.

Hi Mark,

I purchased a Studiotek 123" and a Ruby projector today. If I've read everything in this forum correctly, in a light controlled room, the Studiotek screen is a "better" option, correct? My room dimensions are printed above.

My other choice was a Firehawk G2, but I was worried about colors not beng as saturated as they should with a grey screen. It seems that the high contrast ratio of the Ruby should produce much more satisfying black levels than did past projectors. This should create less of a need for a darker Grey screen in a light controlled room(?)

Also, given the many comments concerning the drop off of Ansi Lumens with a $1,000 400W Zenon bulb, I was concerned that not having a bright enough screen would be problematic after 400hrs with the Ruby and I wouldn't see as much picture detail in shadows.

Lastly, I have not seen the Ruby paired with a Firehawk, but I did see the Ruby with a Studiotek. The room was light controlled, but I though the picture was fine even with the light's in the room dimmed as opposed to pitch black.

Any additional opinions Mark? This is my first projector system and I want to be sure I'm heading in the right direction

Can anyone here give me some insights about how the different Stewart screen materials compare regarding sharpness and color punch. I will go with a Stewart Screenwall Deluxe and was thinking about Studiotek 130 vs. Ultramatte 150. Projector: The upcoming 1080p Optoma H81. 10 feet wide. Room completely light controlled with black walls/ceiling. I appreciate Studioteks color accuracy and "sharpness"/well defined details above all BUT I was asking myself how e.g. the Ultramatte 150 would compare - other than the slightly higher gain - when it comes specifically to "sharpness" and color fidelity/color punch? I would take more vibrant colors over absolute accuracy!

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Most reviews I've read recommend 100" or less for best image with the least noticeable artifacts. I've seen the Ruby on a 110" Studiotech in a light controlled room and found the brightness to be satisfactory but as the lamp ages it might start looking dim. IMHO 123" is to big and will produce a dim image on a 1.3 gain Studiotech.

Do you think the ultramatte is a better choice or is there another high quality, positive gain screen that supports a ceiling mounted Ruby? I think the High Power does not like ceiling mounted projectors.

I had the vendor put the screen and ruby order on hold until I figure out which screen is best.

If you can't lower the projector enough to make the High Power work (assuming you don't mind the narrow viewing cone) maybe the Ultramatte 200 would be best for that size screen. Some like the Silver Star, I don't.
Maybe you should consider a 3 chip DLP like the Infocus 333 or 777 (higher light output) for such a large screen.
I would reduce the size of the screen for the Ruby, you choose.

Hi,

I was going to buy the Da-Lite screen for the price, but have changed my mind and want a Stewart Filmscreen. I need some advice though. Here is my setup, my room final dimensions are 13' w x 18.6' L. I want a large screen, thinking of going for a 115" to 120" diagonal 16x9 screen. My projector is the Panasonic AE900u. My seating distance will be 12' from the screen for the first row and about 16' for the second row with a 10" riser. I plan on putting my PJ on the back wall with it just about even with the top of the screen so that would put the lens close to the 16.5-17' throw spot. My room will be light controlled, building it right now!

Most of the veiwing will be done in total darkness, but on occasion I will have a single can light that will be on just above the seating area (get togethers). What screen do you guys think will work best with this setup the Studiotek 130 or the Firehawk? Also, What about the PJ picture at that distance with a 115" or 120" diagonal screen? I want it to be bright and project a great image. One of my main reasons for going for the larger screen is because I have over 600 DVD's and half are 1.78/1.85 and the other half are 2.35/2.40 size. YES, I have gone through each one and checked. When I show the the 2.35 movies on a smaller screen it will be to small and lose that theater feel for me. Anyway, looking forward to your input.


Randy

Hi Randy, the Firehawk is an awesome screen but expensive. I have a Firehawk and its great. My room is 14x20 with a 110" screen.

You didnt mention how high your ceiling is. One of the things you should calculate into your screen size is from the top to the bottom of the screen. You may find out that with say a 120" that it might stretch to close to your floor depending on how high your mounting it. Having it to low to the floor might make it troublesome for your second row to view the bottom of the screen.

Randy,
I recently went down the same road...testing ST 130 with a Panny 900. Distances are very similar; throw 16', viewing 14'. I explored several screen sizes examining luminance, luminance uniformity, and resolution. It is a CH 2.35 system. Here is what I found.

With a CH system you have 20% more brightness. The numbers following are with a CH system. At that throw distance you will hit about 15 FL at center on low lamp. You will be able to go to about a 100" wide screen before going below 12 FL in low lamp. You might be able to hit 12 FL on high lamp on a 110" screen. ST 130 looks really good because of that little bit of gain...but at the throw distance, and sitting distance you are planning, with a screen wider than about 90" you will have some lack of uniformity. It will not be particularly noticable to the casual eye on a 100 IRE full field, but you can certainly measure it. As I remember, it was down about 30% at the edges on a 115" screen. On dark scenes you may notice you are losing shadow detail near the edges due to this. Is that a deal-breaker? I wouldn't think so, but at least you know what to expect with your Panny. BTW, all the above is a solid screen, not Microperf.

With regards to resolution, the Panny still looked quite good at those sizes with HD-DVD CH 2.35, but not as good as 1080p is going to look.

It seems the only risk you will have is getting the screen too big for the Panny to reach the proper luminance for a large screen in a large room. The ST 130 gain will help you with that. I personally would not choose Firehawk in that room and projector, due to the gray which will eat up too much light. If you're gonna spend a fair amount of money with Stewart, it seems logical to carefully consider giving it the best chance. If you are planning to upgrade to a higher lumen1080 machine down the road, going 110"+ might be worth it. You could limp by for while with a picture that was a little under illuminated.

Does the Firehawk also come in 119" or only 123"? I will be needing a 119" screen for my IF-7205.

There was a real good deal in the for sale section here yesterday on a firehawk 100"

Any size you want, up to a certain limit before it starts having seams.

Thanks for the info, nathan. Yeah i think the Firehawk would be the best option for my 7205 although i have now around 1300 hours on the lamp but it's still plenty bright even in the low lamp mode and my white living room. I think the screen that comes closest to the FH is the Da-Lite HCCV, IMO, but it cannot produce the level of detail in dark scenes like the FH nor the low blacks like it. For the price you still cant beat the HCCV, though.

Room: 17' w x 20' deep
Ceiling: 9'
Projector: Optoma H81
Screen: Stewart Horizontal Electriscreen Electrimask (110 Diag) - G2
Viewing Distance: 15' back
Viewing Height (AFF): 45
Projector Throw: 14'-6
Project Offset Calc: Alpha = 27% translates into 14

- What is an "acceptable" viewing pitch other than horizontal -- 3-5 degrees?
- Any real pitfalls of ordering excessive blackdrop >14"
- Like clean borders but is horizontal masking a ferrari?

I am building and want to install my media room myself. All I am sure of is that I want a 123" firehawk motorised perforated screen. 16:9. My room is 15ft x 18ft and have a large french door directly oppose the screen with a tall window to the left. Firehawk because I have read a lot about it on your forum.

Viewing position I anticipate will be about 12ft from screen. I am leaning towards a 3chip projector - Runco, Infocus or Sim2. I am torn between the cost of the 3chip and the picture quality. For a room of this size do I really need a 3chip DLP to get fantastic picture? Which ones would you recommend?
bolly

bolly: Others more knowledgeable than I can give you more detainled advice, but there are at least 2 things that I can mention. First, you will need a very BRIGHT pj, e.g., like the Mits wd-2000, or one of the 3-chip dlps', like the SIM C3X, or Inf 777. And second, you should be sure that the distance from the lens of the pj to the screen is at least 1.6 X SW (SW = screen width), to prevent hot-spotting with the Firehawk. You should have a great pic!

Thanks for the info millerwill. Is there a projector that is cheaper and would do a good job at giving very good picture?


I was hoping more people will contribute to my question.