The official Screen Research thread. - Page 4

Austin,

Go with the CP 2.

John,

I never used CP1 so I must of read something wrong!!! I now have the flu but getting over it. Seems like everyone I talked to from CES had it also.......Conspiracy therories!!!!

Larry

Larry, I think the flu virus was sent in a bulk email to all Screen Research dealers by a competing screen company just prior to the CES in an attempt to keep us home.

The CP2 is also ISF certified. The CP1 is not, unless I am mistaken (and I don't see how they would certify a screen with push).

My flu came from my kid. Not France. ;>)

Mark H - you are correct. Any calibrator worth their salt can make CP1 look spectacular. You merely scrub off a few lumens in the process.

Good viewing and listening.

I really like the performance of the Clearpix 2 fabric. We have sold and installed a couple of roll down and an equal amount of fixed versions. Video and audio performance are both unquestionably state of the art.
In the last couple of days we installed a 123" diagonal roll down. During the same period we installed 2 flip down plasma lift, a center channel lift and a projector lift. All three of us involved were very frustrated with the Screen Research design for setting limits. Some derogatory comments about French design were discussed Of the three different brands it was the only one that had a push on push off adjustment control. If we did not have access to the main power switch we could have easily damaged the screen. Although the manual does not mention it the when you release the 12volt trigger it waits 10 seconds before rolling up. On the initial turn on we were expecting (like the other lifts and brands we were using) that it would immediately go back up. It just kept heading south. It bumped into a ledge,but no damage was done before we cut power. Afterwards we had to really be careful on setting the limits to avoid damage. The push on push off does not seem to make sense especially compared to the other brands like Stewart,Inca and Auton.
In addition in both of our roll down orders the screen cabinet has been dented. Shipping from such a long distance may be an issue
We are not deterred from continuing to order these highperforming designs. I am just hoping some improvement can be made for easier set up.Thanks

My first 2.35:1 SR screen arrived damaged too. It left the factory in France on a Friday and took TEN days to make it across the channel to the UK and into London. It turns out the delivery company (not SR themselves) had it bouncing around on the back of a van for nearly a week. When it arrived at my dealers they advised me to reject the screen. Even though it wasn't their fault SR in France ran off a new one immediately which I had within days and I've just assembled it. It's stunning. The SR rep told me his company had tried umpteen different delivery companies in the UK and have yet to find a really reliable one.

One thing you guys will find out is that both St. John(US distributor for Screen Research) and Screen Research are both outstanding companies to deal with . They go that extra mile and beyond for their customers and dealers.

As far as damaged boxes I have speaker companies and electronic companies that I deal with and it seems that both VMPS and Cary Audio stuff has superficial damage to the outer box, whenever I see the boxes whether it's Bax global or UPS ground, Fed Ex etc. I will say that Bax Global is a pleasure to do business with and they will call you to arrange a time and call from their last job to make sure you are around and usually they are very good with Audio/video gear and really care about what they are doing!!!

I am just glad that most of whom I deal with double box their stuff. The companies are not pleased either when they have to take back something and send out another piece either.....

Just my two cents,

Larry

Anyone know what the lead time would be for a 120" Wide 2.35:1 CP2 with black backing?

Estimate 4 weeks, although you can ask and pay to get the order expedited.

My newly ordered 15' wide 2.35:1 scope with 4-way masking is 8-12 weeks delivery in the UK...

Mark

Mark, I think that makes you the second guy with 4 way masking on a 2.35:1 screen. You aren't planning on lighting that up with a CRT, are you?

No, My Barco 12" CRT is retiring and I will be auditioning digital projectors for the new cinema.

The 4-way masking not only allows me to frame ratios wider than 2.35:1 it will allow me to optimize the size of the screen (down to about 11' wide 2.35:1) for a given projector's light output should it be necessary.

Cheers,

Mark

One thing that gets me nervous when I look at the Screen Research installation procedures is the pi-grip for getting the screen on the fixed frame. It seems overly complicated, so for those who have assembled fixed frames, how much time should one expect to complete the job (first time) and what are the commone mistakes that someone could make in assembling the product.

--SimpleTheater

I insisted that Screen Research send somebody to install the screen...

Mark

We started constructing the screen about noon and were hanging it up by 2pm - and that included 30 mins or more for lunch. The instructions are in colour and easy to follow. Assembly is a piece of cake. The screen even comes with a dust sheet to build it on, a wooden mallet (should you need it) and a very cute trimming blade. Mind you, this is for the fixed version without masks....

Simple theater,

The fixed frames are rather easy to install yourself and the pigrip makes it easier. Any contractor or person with basic skills like putting together a frame can be of help but it is rather easy to do. Your dealer should be able to get you pdf's and be of help for you as well.

As someone asked about lead times:

Fixed frames-3-4 weeks

Electric screens -4-6 weeks

Masking systems- 6-8 weeks

These are all safe bets....

Larry

Ok.. So I am still undecided on what width of a 2.35:1 J-frame screen to go with. I have my procenium roughed in to use a 110" wide screen, but could rework it too support up to a 130"(although my distance ratio would be a bit aggressive).

Interesting enough the 16:9 screens are cheaper than the 2.35:1 screens(at least for j-frame). Here are a couple things I am debating:

getting a 110"-130" 2.35:1 j-frame and I can allways add in a 'matting' with my htiq system thus not making me make a decision.
getting a 100"-130" 16:9 j-frame (saving money) and just reframing or matting it.

My first impressions of this to myself.... (cheap a$$, but what does it matter if I save money and it looks the same?)

thoughts?

Austin

I'm doing 16:9, not because its cheaper, but because I plan a significant amount of viewing to be HDTV - which is 16:9 (1.78:1). If you are NOT planning on watching much TV, then I'd recommend going 2.35:1.

--SimpleTheater

I'm in the process of framing out a home theater room and I trying to decide where to place the center and front speakers. I'm thinking of putting them behind the screen and I've reasearched the clearpix2 but cant seem to find prices or where to purcharse.Can anyone tell me who to call? I'm planning on purchasing a Benq pe8720 with a screen size of 92" my room is small, about 12' x 13'. Is 92" too big or small for a sitting distance of 13'??? thanks!

HI BernieBee,

If you would like to draw up your room and pdf it to me I will be more then happy to help you. Even though you can use different ways to figure distance if you can get an sheet and a pj(even for a loaner) and put up an image this is the easiest way to see if the image will be to large or small. Some like it larger and some smaller so personal taste does enter into this equation. .

Also it depends on what size speakers you are trying to accomadate. I personally like just the center speaker behind the screen and the two right and left in an acoustic enclosure on the sides so you can aim your speakers for better imaging and soundstage.

What is your ceiling height also???

Larry

I just reread your post.....where are you planning on sitting???? If at 13 ft you will be against your back wall which is the worst place you can be in your theater......you will have very poor sound and get no surround informations that will be diffuse.

This is a very small room and a 80 inches wide screen might serve you better. I personally sit at 13 ft for a 100 wide screen and this is perfect for me but my room is 15.5 ft wide by 21 feet long.

You want to be around 1/2 to 2/3 back from your screen distance to be comfortable. Some will say 1.5 or 1.6 times your screen size....

Hope this helps.

Larry

From what I have read the CP2 is my top choice for a screen; however, here is my delima. I am putting in a projector setup in a non-dedicated theater room. Motorized or manual pulldown are the only options. I don't really want to spend the money on the CP2 as this is setup that will only be used for 2 years or so as I will most likely be building a new house with a dedicated HT.

Is CP1 a viable option and is it considerably less that CP2? How does CP1 or CP2 handle ambient light as this is not a dedicated theater and could be subject to it at times. Screen size will be in the 90 to 100 inch range. Also considering 2.35:1 but may start out basic with 16:9 as this will be my first projector.

The other option in in-ceiling F/C/R speakers for HT (Boston VRI 595's or Theil Powerpoint 1.2's) with a standard screen. Guess I am just looking for someone to push me in the right direction.

Thanks

The motorized screen uses the CP2 which is stiff enough not to need tensioning. The CP1 cannot be used as a motorized screen.

Like everything else in HT, you can sell your screen and move up when the time comes, or simply take it with you, as it is not difficult to transport.

I just have a problem selling anything for 30% of what I paid for it thus I'll just have more useless outdated equipment in the closet.

Any ideas on how CP2 performs in low ambient light. I was thinking I might want a little higher gain screen.

Yes, I share you sentiment (who doesn't), but then again, I would take my screen with me as my new theater would most likely need the same type of screen.

As for the gain, I would not suggest this or any other screen unless you do proper calculation to determine what you need. It is slightly less brighter than an typcial neutral gain screen, except that it has a certain "characteristic" that I appreciate. How bright is your projector?

I plan to go to a fixed screen in the future so taking it with me is not a real consideration.

I have not decided on the projector as the screen seems to be my biggest obstical. Was looking at the Optoma HD78DC3 or HD72 which I have not been able to see in person, one of the new lower end RUNCO 720P units, the new Yamaha LPX-830 ? once my dealer gets one in for me to look at as I was considering the LPX-510, or the Sony HS-51A. My thought is to pic the projector that works best with the screen. Fan noise will also be a factor for me as little things like that drive me nuts.

spann-man,

Best thing to do is determine what size screen you want then get a projector bright enough for that, or choose a screen size based on the projector you will use. It's kind of hard to give any recommendation here, but I prefer a slightly brighter projector with my SR screen because there is a benefit to the weave material in that instance. I would like it even if I did not need the acoustic transparency.

Span-man,

You need to decide what type of look and feel of a theater you want. I am not a big fan of in ceiling speakers for home theater. They are hard to aim at your listening positions and hard to get a good impact for movies. Triad tends to due a good job at this for inwall though....

As far as type of screen.......If you are going to buy a screen now and then plan on not keeping it that is your choice. If there is anyway you can do a fixed screen now then you would not have to sell it in the future and might be the wiser choice.....it is sad and funny to me how many people buy and sell their screen a couple years later to get a SR Screen but you should not have a problem sellling it if needed but I would try to avoid the whole situation to begin .

With Sr the brighter the pj the better but it works with all types of pj's. Many have Infocuses 4805 all the way through the Infocus 777 and are very happy. Some have the Sim 500ht and others have Canons and Dwins etc etc and all seems very happy.

Get your ft. lamberts in the 12-16 range and you will be happy.

Larry

Can anyone explain why a 2.35:1 J Frame more expensive than a 16:9 J-Frame at the same width? Is there a reason why I wouldn't just order the 16:9 version and frame it as a 2.35:1?

thx,
Austin

If the width of the screen is the same, then the frame has to be larger to accomodate the larger height of the 16:9 screen. I don't understand your second question as that would cost you more money - you just said that the 16:9 costs more.

--SimpleTheater

I meant to say the 2.35:1 screen is more expensive than the 16:9..... I will edit the post.