The official Elite screen thread. - Page 38

Yes mine does thay as well but not as bad. Mine started after 8-10 uses but has not gottem worse. Did you ever find out what ot was?

I would like to know as well. I need a replacement screen due to tear, and they do not make my existing screen anymore- m2500 with 2.1 gain. The hp is great, but not so for ceiling mounts

depending on how "adventuresome" you want to get, you could try inserting sheets of paper in the roller. Basically, you cause the screen to unroll as far it can with the limit screws (careful here), then take some "pieces of say print paper" (ie. 8X11 or smaller depending on how much room you have on the top border), insert/wedge them in along the roller/"take up wraps" of the screen, you then roll up the screen, put your "stop limits" back and deploy again. The paper will take up a "fraction" more of the screen in the middle (that's where you stick them mostly) and might help with the dreaded "V" waves which are usually caused by roller sag among other things.

I got a sample of the starbrite and their other lower gain screens. The starbrite was interesting. The sample was too small to say anything definite one way or the other. It does have a distinct look to it, a certain sheen. I had it side by side with the High Power 2.4, and it's noticeably brighter then the HP. Almost blinding during white screens. Viewing angle is not too bad but again, I had a small sample. There is no black backing on it, it's very thin - stretchy. I wish I could see a full screen with it.

They were very quick to get me samples though, and nice to deal with.

I am not quite sure I understand. Yes I have the dreaded V waves. My screen has been down since day 1 I have only once rolled it back up, is this something that happens all the time on these bigger models? I also thought of tying some string on the bottom pole on both sides and stretching it a bit that way making it tighter, I noticed when I pull that way it makes them go away. I would have to use a nail on the wall or something to tie them to. Do you think this might work?

What budwich is saying is the roller is sagging (not straight any more.)
So you mark the top of your screen where it just sticks out of the case when extended to the normal spot with some tape, then adjust the stop setting so it extends as far as it can go.
Next cut some paper that will fit within the distance between the roller and your tape (so it is not to big). insert the paper in the center area of the screen between the screen and roller and roll up the the screen. Reset the stop and extend the screen.
The thickness of the paper will cause the center of the the screen to be up higher than the edges which may help the waves. Add and remove paper to adjust.

I have never done this, but that is what I understand his post to say.

Will a 12.6v source fry out the board on the elete screens trigger input. Its rated for 5-12v. 12.6v .1amp is what the projector outputs... I would not think the extra .6v would be an issue?

the Elite 92" manual pull down has generally favorable reviews> its only about ~$100. would it go well with an Epson 6100? its gonna be more of a temporary screen so i dont really wanna spend a lot of money.

It's $100. You don't get much choice at that price point. Anything in that price range is going to be just about the same, matte white pvc on a cheap roller made in china. It will be fine for a starter screen.

Bought a 92" Silver Frame SILVERFRAME92HG1 from an outfit called Tech For Less.

I'm not sure how they came to have this unit as it looks like it was the only one they had, but I got it for $170 with free delivery. It was perfect when I took it out of the box.

Took some effort to put together, but now it looks perfect on my wall. Couldn't be happier.

Congrads Jason on your new screen. I love my Elite! And for those looking and wondering about 3D, I had saved for 4 years and just purchased the JVC RS-50 projector and the 3D looks absolutely brilliant. I have their Maxwhite 1.1 gain 150" screen, and it is stunning, and the screen only cost me 275.00.

The problem with the bigger screens is they start to get slight waves in them, from the upper corner to the mid center bottom, sometimes shaped like a V. Mine has it and you can see it whenever there is white. Not prominent but it is there. I am trying to find a way to tie the bottom pole to something on each side to pull on it which would get rid of it. Anyone else have this problem? Mine is 3 years old. I was given some advice in earlier posts here and 2 people tried to explain it, but I just don't understand what they are saying.

From airscapes...
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So you mark the top of your screen where it just sticks out of the case when extended to the normal spot with some tape, then adjust the stop setting so it extends as far as it can go.
Next cut some paper that will fit within the distance between the roller and your tape (so it is not to big). insert the paper in the center area of the screen between the screen and roller and roll up the the screen. Reset the stop and extend the screen.
The thickness of the paper will cause the center of the the screen to be up higher than the edges which may help the waves. Add and remove paper to adjust.

I have never done this, but that is what I understand his post to say.
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I've never done this either, but plan to in the next day or so as I have the same issues.

The only sure fire way to get rid of waves is to switch to a fixed frame screen. Been there, had waves, now I'm a happy camper!

Sometimes fixed frames isn't an option. I know in my house the only room big enough for a decent projector is my family room or master bedroom (no basements in Houston). So I mounted the screen above the entertainment center and it drops down infront of our TV. Having a fixed frame that I would have to put up and take down, not to mention store somewhere isn't an option. I purchased a 5 year warranty on my screen though, still hope the above solution works. Keep us updated.

I added half a sheet of 8.5x11" paper to the roller and it seemed to help the waves. I'll mess with it somemore this week. I added it to the middle of the screen, I may add a second, but put them evenly across the top, instead of right in the middle.

Just received a VMAX100 for Xmas and I can't figure out if I need an optional bracket for ceiling installation. The instructions are POOR. Presumably if I can use the included bracket or buy another one I'll have to hit studs on either side right? So what if the case doesn't match up? Presumably it won't unless I get VERY lucky.

Thanks for the help.

miatame, I have the same screen that you mentioned that my son got me for Christmas. He didn't do his homework though. I needed a screen with about 17" of drop, which he never thought of. Looks like I'll be angling the projector up a bit. I previously had a DIY blackout cloth screen which was suspended by two hooks screwed into the ceiling rafters. Of course these don't line up with the ends of the new screen so I was thinking of buying a 10' piece of 1"x2" poplar or pine which I'll paint white to match the ceiling. I can measure the distance between the mounting tabs at the edges of the screen and then install some appropriate hardware to the 1x2 at those measurements and then secure it to the rafters. The new screen will then have hooks at the correct locations. Not an elegant solution but it beats having to move the projector.

Can you not return the screen for the one with the proper drop????

Yeah I guess I'm not a big fan of wood planks along the ceiling. I wish the brackets were adjustable along the length of the casing. Are there any other options?

Got the screen up last night. Basically what I thought it would be like...lots of talking with my buddy about the best way to mount it, lots of time gaining access to the ceiling through the attic, lots of time finding the stud and then 5 minutes to actually screw the screen into the ceiling. It looks GREAT though. I got "lucky" and had studs running parallel with the screen so I didn't have to use the 1"x6" plank I bought. It would have looked funny.

Please keep in mind this is right after the install so the furniture is all over the place and cr@p everywhere. This is not how the room will look when it's done! Oh and keep in mind that's a 40" LCD TV....100" screens are huge! haha I love it!

Screen up:


Screen down:

My thoughts so far are that the screen material is stinky (it smells like plastic so bad! haha) but very good quality. Slapped my Epson Pro 800 on a table, hooked up my bluray player and played the lobby scene in Matrix. No adjustments, just fired it at the new screen, and it looked pretty awesome.

The IR remote is horrible. It doesn't work half the time, I need to figure out why.

The motor is slow, and while it is smooth there is a clicking sound every foot or so when it rolls up or down. Disconcerting but we'll see.

Overall for $350 shipped it is a great deal. I'll get some quality shots up when the theater room is done and painted.

One thing, what do you guys do with the power cord? It is so not elegant hanging down and the cord is only about 5 feet so how do they expect you to plug it in? It is assumed you will have an outlet on the ceiling?

can some one enlighten me on the quality of my screen?

I have a Silver Frame series with cinewhite I purchased 2 years ago in 120". this was my first screen in my first theater. Impulse buy on Ebay.

I have heard good things about the Elunevision Reference screen. I hrard everyone raving about the SMOOTH surface.

I have a completely light controlled room with flat black walls..

Is this an upgrade for me or should I be happy with what I have? I am just looking for a change and or doing research on my current equipment. I am also hearing my screen is pretty decent for what I paid for it. I recently got my HT done in my new house and was just looking to do some tweaking, I just dont like the actual silver frame itself. I like the black velvet frame on the Elunevision. Plus the smooth screen.

Thank you all.

Well, I have to say that I've been pretty happy with my 100" Elite CineTension2 so far. We went with this set up because my boys (8 & 10) still watch a lot of Nick and Disney channels and I didn't want them running up the hours on the PJ on that crap. The white furniture was somewhat expensive and only a few years old, so we rearranged it. It does through off some light, but it's not distracting to me and the people we've had over so far.

My only problem with the screen has been trying to figure out how to get the 12v trigger to work. The manual says red is +12v and green is 0v, but I'm not sure what is what from the Epson 8350. So, if anyone has any insight on that, it would be appreciated.

Screen Up


Screen Down

Haha, Like your setup. We think alike.





Can't help you on the 12v trigger setup. I used my Harmony 900 to control the screen. If you have a Harmony it's in their library of devices. Or if you have a remote that can learn IR commands that'll work too.

I have a Harmony 900 as well and found the screen in the home appliance device section. After setting it up, it won't control it. Were there any special tricks that you remember?

Yeah. For some reason none of my buttons were programmed correctly off the bat to make the screen go up and down. Second, since it's considered a home appliance the software doens't realize it needs to be down/up like a TV needs to be on/off when viewing something. Not sure how familiar you are with the software so I'll go over both.

1st, programming the buttons with the correct actions in case you ever just wanna use the screen by itself.

Devices>Home Appliance Settings>



Customize Buttons



These are the buttons I chose to use, but it's really all up to works best for you.




2nd, telling the software to drop and raise the screen when using the projector.

So under activites, click on settings>



Review the settings for this Activity>



Yes, but I want to add more control of options and devices for this Activity



You then want to Add "Elite Screens Home Appliance" to the Devices in Use list. In the picture I already have it added.



Skip through the next two screens as I'm guessing these settings are already setup. Now you want to add an action for the "Elite Screen Home Appliance" and choose the direction down for the Start Action and direction up for Leave Action.



You'll have to go through each activity that uses the projecter and set this up. Kinda a pain but what can you do? Hope this helps you out.

Thanks for the screenshots. I confirmed that I had it set up like that, but when I try to raise or lower the screen, the radio icon at the top of the 900's display doesn't come on at all like it does for any other device.

Damn, I'm such an idiot. You know what, this did happen to me too. Can't believe I didn't remember. Mine didn't know the IR commands. How Logitech has this device listed, but no IR commands is dumb I think. Your gonna have to teach it the IR commands. You'll need to hook up the remote to your computer via the USB cable. Then open the software up and go to Devices. There should be a "Learn IR" option. From there it's pretty self explanatory. Basically you pick the action/command you want it to learn, then push the button on the original remote while pointing it at the bottom of the Logitech remote. I had to really mess around with it before it picked up the IR signal. I ended up taking the battery cover off the 900 because it seemed it was getting the signal through it's window. Maybe it was scratched up or something. Let me know if this fixes it or you need more help. Not at home so can't post screenshots of what I mean. But will be home later tonight. Good Luck. Oh and make sure you use the IR remote that came with the screen and not the Radio one.

Hi all.

I am considering an Elite Cinetension to go with my new Epson 8350.

However, where I plan to mount this is on a sloped ceiling (about 45 degrees.) For anyone that has installed this screen, do you know if it is possible to mount the screen on a slope?

Thanks!

The mount is made for a flat wall or ceiling. Won't work on a sloped ceiling. If your pretty handy around the house, you could just do a little custom fabrication. Get some wood and cut some right triangles. Mount those to the studs in the ceiling and then you got yourself a flat surface to screw the mounts into.