The official Elite screen thread. - Page 14

My situation is what it is. Due to false advertising and poor information, I am stuck with dealing with a purchase that was unsatisfactory.

What should a president of a company with interest in Customer service do? How about answer their phone calls, apologize, come up with some ideas other than crediting a few bucks or sending the screen back AND MOST IMPORTANTLY REMOVE INFORMATION ON THE COMPANY WEBSITE AND MATERIALS THAT WRONGLY STATE THAT THEIR BEST AND MOST EXPENSIVE SCREEN HAS SOFT BLACK VINYL BACKING.

that's all....

and for me, well I'm not expecting anything since I tried my best to get the actions I've listed before even posting on this forum.

I purchased the 120" manual from TD.
I am having issues getting the screen back into the case, but i was wondering if there was a way that i could remove the stops and simply put a hook in the position i want the screen. this way it is always under tension where i want it height wise, and when i am done, i unhook it and it will always go back up.

otherwise i will have an issue with this screen as i havent actually been able to get it back up a single time

Dave

^ So is the screen from Tiger direct any good? is this the one you are talking about? Its so cheap compared to other ones, i was thinking about getting it, is it to good to be true?
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...662&CatId=2444

a few posts back a couple people have asked about replacing their material in their EZFrame, I have a 120" EZFrame with the 1.1 white screen, Elite gave me a quote of $250 to replace that with the 1.8 Powergain material...I still havent pulled the trigger on that yet but will soon

Falcon,
so far it looks very good with complete light control with my acer ph530. i am new to projectors, but it is great so far. i am having a problem with the retraction of the screen, but there are no waves or screen issues. measurements are pretty on the mark, it was definitely the cheapest i found after shipping. i am planning on doing a theater thread sometime this week, i can try to get some screen shots.

Dave

120" is way too big for ph530's 370 lumens, especially if the screen is 1.0 gain.

is 120" a good size for a epson home cinema 1080p?

Yeah, it doesnt quite pop, but it does look very good. if/when i do my HT thread, you will see that since my ceiling slopes up at the back, my only option was to wall mount 17' back. i couldnt get the pj to shrink enough for 100".
my main factor was price. we are building a house in 3 months and she didnt want me to do anything else, but i sold my 46" rp crt for $300 and bought the pj, screen and hdmi cable for $800, a net of $500. for $500 out of pocket, this setup is amazing.
i even played xbox with a buddy yesterday and it was fine with the light on.

Dave

i also payed around 800$ for the pj+screen (also a ph530), but my screen is 84" 1.0 gain and it does pop and i'm pretty satisfied with the setup till 1080p gets better and cheaper.


one tip i can give you is don't use the zoom at maximum setting, seems like it makes the image less sharp

I emailed Elite and got a *very* detailed response to this question. They said that they don't currently offer the ezFrame series with the Powergain 1.8 screen material (for fixed frame only available in the Silverframe series), but it can be ordered separately. Part# ZR92GH-M and retail is $249. That is for a 92" screen. I'm guessing you'd just replace the 92 portion of the part number with the inch size desired to get a different size. Considering ezFrame screens sell for well below retail price, I'm gonna venture to guess that the screen material could be bought for substantially less than $249 as well. They advised that when I'm ready to buy to give them my phone number and they'll have their top reseller give me a call. Anyway, kudos to Elite for their timely and detailed response. I haven't received an email that detailed from a vendor or manufacturer in quite some time.

I was looking at UCH Elite gray screen also for the 7210. Did you go with it yet? What type gray?

After inadvertently crushing a couple of moths in my 106 inch GW screen, and finding that the screen cannot be cleaned without damage (to say nothing of the lousy customer support at GW), I decided to buy an inexpensive, manual, 120 inch Eite screen. I wish I had bought one earlier. Here's why:

- I have a Sony Pearl PJ. I was concerned about brightness on on no-gain screen. However, the Elite gives a significantly brighter image than the GW, even w/o gain. Any loss of contrast seems to be insignificant in a light-controlled environment. And the colors look more accurate than with the GW.

- The image is considerably sharper than the image on the GW. I never experienced the "looking through a window" effect with the GW. The smooth surface of the Elite enables the experience of maximum sharpness at 1080p.

- Wider viewing angle than GW

- Better ripple control. I had big ripples in the GW. The Elite also had some significant ripples, but the base bar of the screen extends about an inch beyond the edge of the screen itself. I hung a weight on each side--the ripples disappeared. After 2 days of using the weights, I removed them and the ripples did not return.

-Better build quality. The Elite just seems to be better built--heavier materials for the screen and case.

I'm very pleased with this product--it's worth considering if you have a tight budget and good ambient light control.

Brian

Brian

which Elite screen model did you get? Was it a silvergrey or white?

Tradewinds--

I got the white screen. I think this is the only available option for the manual 120.

Brian

I also asked elite about purchasing PowerGain for my EZFrame..they gave me the same price quote $250, for my 120" screen, the retailer that I bought the screen from did not offer the material

I am about to pull the trigger on this purchase, I think it may be the icing on the cake for my setup:
Sanyo Z2000
Panny BD30 BD Player
Tosh XA2 HH_DVD

I just bought a AX200U, and will be using screen in a reasonably bright room most of the time, it is my understanding that a higher grain like the Elite Powergrain is good for my situation correct?

I worry through because the AX200U is suppose to be very bright, and if I do decide to watch tv at night with all the lights down, am I going to get a wash out look?

I am looking at this Elite, and the Da-lite Cosmopolitan Electrol. The only 2 screens in my price range because I need a motor. Any suggestions?

My Elite pulldown 120" screen (1.0 gain) with a Acer PH-530
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=951151
washes out with light, but still viewable, great in the dark.

Dave

If you have significant ambient light, I would recommend going with the HC fabric from Elite or the HCCV fabric from Da-Lite. Both are gray fabrics that will increase your black level so the screen won't look washed out.

Your PJ is plenty bright, so you don't need the additional gain. What you need is something to help out with black level.

How do you get rid of the waves? Is there something that can be purchased, or should I just be looking for a better screen? Same problem with my 106"

Hi there,
I have a grandview 84" fixed white screen, paired with a pt-ax100u.
I sit at 2.5 meters from the screen, in a really small ALL WHITE room (ceiling, furniture, walls). In dark scenes everything is ok...but as the scene become bright...picture washes out. My guess is that the white room is reflecting so much light, that is just like turning on some ambient light.
My question is: would a Elite Gray screen solve (or improve) the problem? I'm also planning to reduce the size to around 70" inches.
Thanks!

In general, a gray fabric will help your screen keep from getting washed out if you have some ambient light. It will increase your black level and contrast. There are limits of course, but it will help.

You will lose some color vibrancy compared to watching a white screen with no ambient light, but this trade off would probably be worth it in your situation.

Not much you can do with your existing screen.

The waves are caused by the roller flexing slightly inside the case. The roller flexes because it has to span a 7'-plus distance. Because of this flex, the material can't hang straight down, and you get V-shaped waves.

Getting a tab-tensioned screen will fix the problem.

Well, I finished the room a few weeks ago, and never posted the rev. 2 pics. So, here you go!


TV

Screen descending

Screen fully deployed

I have a 100" Elite manual MaxWhite with Mitsubishi HC1500 ceiling mounted 13-1/2 feet from screen. Sitting 12 feet from screen. On bright scenes, there is what seems like a thin layer of glass over the picture. It looks like the texture of the screen material. When I stand on the sofa and look down at the screen, it disappears but the picture looks a bit dull compared to the sitting position. Could it be because my projector is ceiling mounted and ceiling is white?

I, too, had this problem upon installing my manual 92" screen. I found that if you pull the screen down until just past the next stop, then sort of "help" it back up into the case (almost as if it were a retractable window shade that used to be so popular until blinds became cheap) it goes up without a hitch. Just don't get too aggressive with it. After you do it a few times, it'll be a piece of cake! HTH.

Freddy,
I like the hidden screen extension from the ceiling. Doesn't appear that you have a screen, and then, Ta Dah! There it is. Very cool.

I like that you dressed things up with the soffit - nice touch. Looks great!

It's not actualy a soffit- it's a false front. Basically, I got a 14' 1 x 10, and cut it to size. I mounted the cutoffs on the inside of the sidewalls, and used that as a brace. I hit a few spots under the false front along the front edge with little blocks to keep it tight to the ceiling. Then I primed it and painted it the color of the walls.

I had recessed lights in the ceiling. They are small high intensity halogens controlled by remote. The spread of the light cones was perfect- no shadows. That, and the size of the screen vs. the width of the room made a full soffit kind of pointless. I would have still need to leave the majority of the soffit open to be able to access the screen.

I had NO room for error. The 9.25" true width of the 1 x 10 was perfect for my entertainment base and center channel speaker. It left just enough border to make the screen uniform when fully extended, without dropping behind the center channel. Didn't have to move the projector at all, other than adjust the throw height, which took 15 seconds.

Most importantly- it got the wife approval factor when finished! That can never be discounted.

The ONLY problem I have is the IR code for the Elite screen. I use an MX-700 remote, and while it learned the drop and stop functions of the screen just fine, it can't seem to learn the Elite "up" command. What a pain. I have macros that dim the lights, drop the screen, power the projector. But the macro to "shut down" does everything BUT retract the screen.

NO idea why it's an issue, this remote has been flawless for 4 years. It's been driving me nuts. I have put it on hold while I wait for the new Samsung BDP-5000 universal player, however. And the monoprice 4 x 2 HDMI switch. As those need remote codes programmed, I figured I'd just wait the month until I had them and do it all in one shot.

We watch more TV on the plasma than movies on the screen, so it's not a huge deal. But it's very annoying.

AVS recommends the dalite hi power screen. You can get it from AVS for an unbeatable price. Contact marc@avsforum.com and he will get back to you same day. I also have this projector but I don't know if I want a fixed frame screen which gives better performance or not.

Sorry for not posting earlier; I've been very busy during the last few weeks. So, after I received the black masking tape from Findtape.com and tried it on the screen, it just didn't look right. It was very visible with the light on and it kinda shined a little bit during playback.

So, I went and did a crazy thing: I decided to paint the 1.6 inches I needed to mask in order to make my screen a perfect 16:9 screen. My screen came measuring 42 x 72, about 1.6 taller. Instead of painting the top of the screen, I decided the bottom was going to be easier and less noticeable; and it was.

I bought two big rulers (50 each) and another 90 degrees ruler. I also bought a very light pencil and draw a straight line about 1.6 off the bottom edge of the screen. Finally, I bought a 1 paint roller and some black vinyl Winsor & Newton paint.

The results:

Perfection, it's like my screen came faultless from the manufacturer. The paint dried in about 20 minutes and right away hanged my screen again on the Elite L brackets. Amazingly, the Relikan paint matches the black from the screen and you can't even notice the difference. So, for $495 shipped, I got one heck of a deal. If some of you guys with the same problem decides to paint yours, please feel welcome to send me an email or PM for advice.

Advice: Remember to buy some masking tape and mask it well at the edges and on top of the new line.

Enjoy some pics.

Best,