The Fly-In Construction has finally started! - Page 2

The riser is 8 inches and I did use the riser height calculator (great piece of work BTW) and it said I needed at least 7inches. I can go higher if I need to...I will look at my calculations one more time to make sure they are correct. "measure twice cut once, right!"

Drew

Bud, thanks for asking but unfortunately I have not progressed too much further. I have been very busy at work and now with the holidays who knows. I have finished all the framing though to include the soffits. I need to upload the pictures. I am now starting the plumbing/electrical and HVAC. I hope to have all the electrical done by Jan 1 with the plumbing and HVAC shortly after that. If I don't talk to you sooner have a good xmas and happy new year.

Drew

Happy New Year Everyone...

I finally got around to starting the electrical work. Yes I am tackling the entire job myself. Of course since I pulled a permit I won't fear to much about burning down the house once it passes inspection of course... I also rely on a neighbor who is an electrician.

This is where I am at. I added a 100amp subpanel in the basement. Of course the panel is rated for 100 amps with 12 slots. I am only bringing in 60 amps from the main panel. So since I am feeding the entire basement plus a dedicated circuit for my garage this is what I have planned:

1 20 Amp circuit for HT projector
1 20 Amp circuit for HT equipment
1 15 Amp circuit for HT lights
1 20 Amp circuit for the garage (Power tools are great!)
1 15 Amp AFCI circuit for the workout/bedroom
1 15 Amp circuit for the hall lights, equipment room light, storage room lights, 3 outlets
1 15 Amp circuit for game room lights
1 20 Amp GFCI circuit for bathroom
1 20 Amp circuit for bar, 4 outlets

Does this all sound about right? Is having 3 dedicated circuits for the HT overkill? I have read through the forums at length about this very topic and the opinions vary greatly. Since I have the space it is not a big deal, I am just looking for some general guidance on what others in similar situations have done.

So far I have installed the subpanel brought in the power and created the garage circuit and the hallway light/outlet circuit. So I am just beginning this adventure. After this is will be the plumbing and then the HVAC.

Drew

I am well on my way to being 50% complete on all of my wiring. It really is amazing how easy electrical is once you figure out the basics. Not only is it easy to figure out doing it yourself saves a bundle. I now have the following:

60 Amp subpanel
15 Amp circuit for hallway/Equipment Room/Storage room lights and 4 outlets
15 Amp circuit for Game Room lights and outlets
15 Amp circuit for Bar Area lights and outlets
20 Amp GFCI for the Bathroom
20 Amp AFCI for the Workout/Bedroom
20 Amp circuit for the PJ in the Home theater
20 Amp circuit for the HT equipment
15 Amp circuit for HT lights

The only areas left to wire are the HT and the Bathroom. I would like to have all the electrical done by Feb, but we will see. It is finally nice to see some more progress, as well as not working in the dark...

I am now down to finishing the rough-in of the bathroom and the workout room. Should be finished in a week or so. I may wait on the bathroom until I finish the HVAC. I figured out I have a small problem with routing the HVAC lines. Not much space to work with and installing can lights/etc does not make it any larger. Oh well, roughing in the wiring was actually fun aside from the cut up hands, and the many trips to Home Depot to buy more boxes, cable, etc.

A bit of advice to those doing the electrical rough-in themselves: Buy more than what you think you need and return what you don't use. I used 600 feet of 14/2, 250 feet of 12/2, 80 feet of 14/3 NM cable. I used 11 adjustable Carlton boxes in the HT and 18 Single boxes, 2 double boxes, 2 triple boxes and 1 quad box. I have 28 can lights and 4 wall sconces. Of course this is all for a 1400 square foot basement.

This part was enjoyable but will be glad when it is down so I can move on to the plumbing rough-in and HVAC, and finally drywall. I will post some pictures this weekend of my progress.

Drew

Took me a little longer than I thought but the electrical is now 100% done. Now it is on to the plumbing and HVAC. That should go fairly quickly as there is not too much to do with that. So then I can get an inspection on finally onto drywall.

After following all the excitement on Sandman's thread I too have decided to go with a 2.35:1 screen and will more than likely use his Phifer Sheerweave 4000 when he decides to sell it! I am going to go with a constant height 2.35:1 (110.4"x47") screen. I am still deciding on projectors but am leaning towards the Panasonic AE900. I am also looking at the Panamorph 752 lens.

Also I decided to redo the soffit so I spent some time ripping down what I had already done (DIY fun) and will tackle the new soffit very soon. I will also post some pics this weekend. Of course electrical pics are not as exciting as drywall.

Drew

Took me a little longer than I thought but the electrical is now 100% done. Now it is on to the plumbing and HVAC. That should go fairly quickly as there is not too much to do with that. So then I can get an inspection on finally onto drywall.

After following all the excitement on Sandman's thread I too have decided to go with a 2.35:1 screen and will more than likely use his Phifer Sheerweave 4000 when he decides to sell it! I am going to go with a constant height 2.35:1 (110.4"x47") screen. I am still deciding on projectors but am leaning towards the Panasonic AE900. I am also looking at the Panamorph 752 lens.

Also I decided to redo the soffit so I spent some time ripping down what I had already done (DIY fun) and will tackle the new soffit very soon. I will also post some pics this weekend. Of course electrical pics are not as exciting as drywall.

Drew

Hey Bud, to answer your question....yes. I will be putting in bass traps along the side soffits. I am also going to be extending the front and rear soffits from 12" to 24". That way I will have room under the front soffit to put in a screen wall and proscenium. The 24" rear soffit will allow me to put the projector inside the soffit as you were initially planning on doing.

As for the bass traps along the sides my plan is to put in soundboard from HD on the top portion of the soffit, followed by Owens Corning 703, Cotton Batting and another layer of 703 all covered by GOM.

Drew

As prommised here are some pics of my progress....

New Propeller for above the bar!


The Game Room


The Bar


The new subpannel


The home theater entrance


HT side wall were the equipment will be


HT front wall


HT rear wall


HT equipment room


Drew

In my HT is my main water shutoff for the house. You can see it in this picture:


My question is other than just putting in a small panel to access it, is there any other way/better way to get to it without disrupting the final look of the theater?

Drew

The water cutoff is in the back left corner of the theater as your looking at the rear wall. I framed a wall around the whole area. If you look at the plans below you will see a hollow area where the second row riser is located. That space is where the main shutoff valve is.



Drew

Dave, thanks for the info, that hidden rack access panel may do the trick. I was thinking of something along those lines but now I have an idea to borrow! Thanks.

Drew

Scott, right you are. The white wire is for an external meter reader in front of the house. Good eyes BTW. Yes as I am sure you are aware living in Colorado we either deal with mold or shifting soil so I have a mold mitigation fan. It works well as I have control of the humidity setting which I keep around 20%. So the fan does run often. However my fan is not tremendously loud. I would say that in sones it is about 2.5 So by throwing in some insulation and drywall-panel in front of it I think I can cut down the noise factor.

I know when I am in the theater now I can hear it but it is more of a low rumble than anything else. I will have a problem as obviously the noise factor from the fan under the floor will always be present. There is nothing I can do about that I am afraid. Although I could hook the power to the fan up to the graphic eye and kill it when a movie plays.

Drew

Thanks guys, I have decided to redo the framing around the main water shutdoff in the HT so I can do a hidden panel a little easier. So I will need to rewire the electrical box and change out some of the framing but no biggie. Should be able to do it easily this weekend.

I will also be getting my drywall in the next few weeks, thanks to Uncle Sam! So I need to finish the hvac and plumbing and get my inspection. I jut want to buy the drywall before the price goes up again.

As for the foosball table, I need all the advantage I can get to win!

Drew