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PLV-Z4 Tweak Thread - Page 9

post #241 of 1081
Smarty - not sure why it didn't work for you - I was able to download the original file that ROne posted above.

Thanks ROne! I've used your Creative Cinema settings on two dvd players now with great success (both are Sony megachangers - one connected via HDMI the other via Component). Keep tweaking this wonderful machine's brains out!
post #242 of 1081
Hey ROne, Great doc. I'll be using this weekend on my 2.35:1, 147". Hopefully I will be able to get some pics posted over on the 2.35;1 CIH forum.

Any recommendations on Dynamic setting or related other than the Service Menu iris adjustments?
post #243 of 1081
I have copies of old post form the Z2 forum and will post the Z2 info as soon as I track it down. It is likely that the names for the adjustments are the same.
post #244 of 1081
Here is the important bits:

Yesterday 04:21 PM

Rick Guynn
Advanced Member
Registered: May 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 577
In the factory not service menu:
7,8,9 - R,G,B Horizontal position
15,16,17 - R,G,B Vertical position.
RG
Again, make aure you record the original values prior to changing anything.

I will try to post the whole PDF some how.

Thanks Gary
post #245 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolCanuck View Post

Smarty - not sure why it didn't work for you - I was able to download the original file that ROne posted above.

Thanks ROne! I've used your Creative Cinema settings on two dvd players now with great success (both are Sony megachangers - one connected via HDMI the other via Component). Keep tweaking this wonderful machine's brains out!

I had asked earlier and not heard back. I'll be running my DVD player through an iScan HD+ then to the Z4 via HDMI. Even though the DVD connection to the iScan is component can I expect reasonable results with ROne's DVI/HDMI settings?
post #246 of 1081
Thread Starter 
Jay - providing you set both to PC levels and your iSCAN passes through the signal (which you can check with calibration disc) then you should be good to go.

I would be interested to know what happens.
post #247 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROne View Post

Jay - providing you set both to PC levels and your iSCAN passes through the signal (which you can check with calibration disc) then you should be good to go.

I would be interested to know what happens.

I would not have thought to set to PC levels - thanks for the tip. I'm going to get an interim cal done today with Avia and I'll load your latest Living and Creative settings. Install was yesterday so I'm pretty stoked, although I'm not "launching" it to the family until Christmas day. Santa kicked ass this year.
post #248 of 1081
I should be getting my Z4 wed of next week so I will get into the service menu and see if the RGB pixel adjustments are the same. Does anyone have a PDF of the service manual?
post #249 of 1081
Thread Starter 
I think utility posted a link to it ..

http://www.sanyo.co.uk/Web%20Publish...ors/PLV-Z4.pdf

I couldn't hyperlink it for some reason, but there you go.
post #250 of 1081
ROne,

I am using Oppo dvd wth dvi to hdmi cable.

Your settings give very good picture but tinted to yellow.

I assume that your PC corrects somehow for this.

From my days with my previous pj, I learned that one could get rid of yellow bu increasing the blue output, so I have increased the Blue setting from your -8 to 0. This helps a little.

Could you recommend other changes that could get rid of the yellow push.

Shelly
post #251 of 1081
Thread Starter 
Shelly, this is a common confusion.

First do not adjust blue to get rid of yellow push, the RGB settings are there to tune the colour mix of white. White that hopefully is defined at D65 ( a type of white used in the transfer process) - by mixing the RGB, offsets, Gains etc.

The Yellow Push or for that matter Red Push is a product of the saturation being all messed up in the LIVING settings, this must be adjusted with the colour management feature.

Reset the RGB settings to my initial numbers.

Then load up colour management and follow the instructions in my tweaks DOC published a few posts earlier.

ROne.
post #252 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROne View Post

Shelly, this is a common confusion.

First do not adjust blue to get rid of yellow push, the RGB settings are there to tune the colour mix of white. White that hopefully is defined at D65 ( a type of white used in the transfer process) - by mixing the RGB, offsets, Gains etc.

The Yellow Push or for that matter Red Push is a product of the saturation being all messed up in the LIVING settings, this must be adjusted with the colour management feature.

Reset the RGB settings to my initial numbers.

Then load up colour management and follow the instructions in my tweaks DOC published a few posts earlier.

ROne.

Thanks ROne.

I guess that I had been playing with changing and saving settings so much that I decided to wipe the slate clean and start over again.

So I restored your original (and CKL's) settings as well as one (User 4) I had made myself based on Living also.

I also erased all of the color management settings I had done for each of the User 1,2,3,4. Plan to do the color management again once it gets dark tonight.

One further question that I will probably explore tonight.

Do the User settings that I entered with the hdmi input (my dvd) also carry over to the component input (my HD cable) or do I have to enter the numbers again for the different inputs?

Shelly
post #253 of 1081
Thread Starter 
thinking about it shelly. i think dvdr had the same problem with his oppo and my settings. i am sure we concluded that it was the relation of hdmi pc levels being passed correctly to the z4 and the contrast position. if the contrast was set to high which may occur with the wrong hdmi setting then the greyscale will turn yellowish. this is not push from bad saturation though. scan back thru the posts to see our discussion.
post #254 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by shelly View Post

So I restored your original (and CKL's) settings as well as one (User 4) I had made myself based on Living also.

I forgot about CKL's. Will have to try that. Set CC to ROne's settings yesterday with the iScan at DVI PC levels. Blacks definitely better then with DVI Video levels but presumably that would balance itself if calibrated using the different settings. In retrospect I don't think I set the Z4's input to PC so there may be an imbalance there. Ran out of time to input Living and run an Avia cal for comparison. I found the CC setting to look OK but I wasn't particularly blown away. I found the blacks to be more murky gray which disappointed me. But somewhat expected as calibration numbers can't be simply transfered between systems with the same results. At least it's a good starting point.

Screen door is definitely visible at 11' from an 87" wide, 100" diagonal HCCV screen. Gone in the second row at 17'. It's not a huge issue in the front row, merely a slight veil, but there nevertheless. Projector Central's report that 1.3x is all that is required for video is generous. But the projector is nice and tight to the ceiling with shift to spare, which was a big thing for me.
post #255 of 1081
I've seen a few references to CKL's tweak settings and haven't seemed to find them in this thread. Must be tired. Can someone reference the location for me or cut and paste?
post #256 of 1081
I found dvdr's Oppo settings based on Living and very close to ROne's. Looks great with the Oppo now. Also I adhered exactly to ROne's Living and CC settings and did not find yellow push this evening.

Sometimes it's best to wipe the slate clean and to enter the settings anew. The mistake I may have made was to not start with the default Living or default Creative Cinema each time I set up a custom User setting.

Also, I find that CKL's settings are washed out with blacks much more gray than with ROne's or dvdr's settings.

Shelly
post #257 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Mitchosky View Post

I've seen a few references to CKL's tweak settings and haven't seemed to find them in this thread. Must be tired. Can someone reference the location for me or cut and paste?

Hi,
the initial settings CKL suggested were as follows:

I copied them from the following website:
http://www.avbuzz.com/audio-video/20...o-z4/index.htm

Settings based on Creative Cinema Mode

Brightness +3
Contrast -3
Color +4
Tint 0
Gamma +1 (he set it to +1 to have a bit more detail in the shadows)
Color temp. Mid
Red 0
Green 0
Blue 0
Gain R -5
Gain G -9
Gain B +3
Offset R -15
Offset G +15
Offset B -2
Gamma R +5
Gamma G -5
Gamma B -3
Lamp Iris Auto
Auto black Stretch, Contrast enhacement and Transient improvement all of
post #258 of 1081
Thanks, dvdr.
post #259 of 1081
The settings worked great ROne. Thank You. I think the colors were a bit on the red side but still much better than default. I will tweak to my taste later. I went the Living setting which was brighter than CC for my 147" 2.35:1 screen.

One thing as others have noticed, is the HDMI L1 vs L2. The difference for me was night and day. I was watching a dark scene in Lord of the Rings 1. Black detail was pretty bad until I switched to L2. I was watching the part where Gandalf is looking up the origins of the ring near the beginning and he's in what I guess is an old library which is a good dark shadow filled scene. And switching from L1 to L2 at that point was really shocking. Black blobs turned into detailed areas with black and dark gray. Some have mentioned they feel it washes the picture out but that is not the case. The effect is from turning what started out as very dark blobs to grayscaled parts of the image. The image isn't quite as dark since there isn't as much full black. Colors however aren't changed just the darker parts of an image. Most on here have looked at the HDMI levels but if you haven't you need to.
post #260 of 1081
Thread Starter 
Do remember guys that on LIVING you have to tweak the saturation via colour management by selecting one or two of the awkward colours.

On CREATIVE CINEMA I've not found a need to do this.

I think built into LIVING preset there is an artificial boost on some parts of the saturation colour spectrum.

Oh and all my calibrations are HDMI L2 - Pc Levels.
post #261 of 1081
Thread Starter 
I am working on a new set of LIVING values that push a better contrast while just veering off from D65 right at the top, I think it's worth the compromise.

The z4 tweaks doc has been updated with minor additions to iris settings and presets, also got rid of a few typos.

Let me know if anything wants changing.
post #262 of 1081
Thanks ROne,
I was able to get the manual but I don't have a Z2 manual to cross reference the names too. I was only provided with the #'s to change in the factory menu. I suppose I could look at my current Z2 tonight and see if the menus are labeled but a Service manual for the Z2 would be better. Anybody got one?
post #263 of 1081
Hello guys. I 've been following this thread for the past two weeks. Congratulations for the great work to all contributors and especially R1 .

I am a proud owner of a Z4 - Oppo combination. Unfortunately didn't have much time for testing.So far I 've watched 4 movies in CC mode.

Yesterday I tried ROne's settings in L1 mode after compensating for Contrast and Brightness using DVE. I liked the highlights of living and the midtones and shadows of CC.

Today I used L2 and there was no need to change brightness and contrast (DVE patterns were OK). Even though they were OK I sensed that there was a lack of information in the dark areas of living. So I boosted brightness a bit and the result was quite impressive . Can't wait to test it with my next movie. However in CC mode I feel now that there is a veil on the image.

So here are my questions:
Is it OK to raise brightness even though patterns were OK?
How do you oppo owners setup the player for Z4?

P.S. Keep up the good work!
post #264 of 1081
Thread Starter 
Ellessar - all my settings are based around L2 HDMI (which the Oppo must be set for - speak to DVDR?).

Yes you can shift contrast and brightness but it will move away from my calibration points of D65 - but find a happy compromise.

It's true that CC does look like a veil of mist over it - that is the extra contrast of the LIVING preset in action.
post #265 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROne View Post

I am working on a new set of LIVING values that push a better contrast while just veering off from D65 right at the top, I think it's worth the compromise.

The z4 tweaks doc has been updated with minor additions to iris settings and presets, also got rid of a few typos.

Let me know if anything wants changing.

Thanks. I'll have to try that. I felt that the previous Living setting was a little too contrasty. Lots of punch to the image but not as natural as Creative Cinema. Image is still more digital looking then I would like but I'll get around to playing a bit. I'm hugely appreciative of the work you're doing here as just a raw Avia calibration looks pretty dismal compared to your CC and Living concoctions. Not having the proper tools to go beyond that would create a lot of frustration. I would still like to see better black levels, however. Will have to toy around with the iris settings.

A couple of points of clarification if you would: 1) Which color temperature preset do you choose, and 2) when you refer to LOW lamp mode I presume you mean ECO?
post #266 of 1081
Based on ROne's Living settings:

I have found two ways to increase the shadow detail.

One is to raise the Brightness from the -3 to 0.

The other is to leave Brightness at -3 and change the Gamma from -1 to 0. This is still a shade deeper blacks than the first method.

Which of the two ways has the least affect on other parameters like the D6500, or are they each suitable ways to increase shadow detail?

Thanks.

Shelly
post #267 of 1081
my Z4 with R0ne 'living' settings.

fixed-mounted screen, 1.1 gain (upgrading to 1.3), 100"D
thrown from 17' feet

http://cubedcompanies.com/-old-/celio/z41.jpg
http://cubedcompanies.com/-old-/celio/z42.jpg
post #268 of 1081
Quote:
Originally Posted by cubedcompanies View Post

my Z4 with R0ne 'living' settings.

fixed-mounted screen, 1.1 gain (upgrading to 1.3), 100"D
thrown from 17' feet

http://www.cubedcompanies.com/-old-/z41.jpg
http://www.cubedcompanies.com/-old-/z42.jpg

Thanks for taking the time to post some Z4 screen shots, which can help others decide on this pj's merits.

However, animation will look great with all of the new projectors. I know that when I was making my decision, I welcomed screenshots showing flesh tones and shadow detail in dark scenes.

Do yoou have any more?

Thanks.

Shelly
post #269 of 1081
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Mitchosky View Post


A couple of points of clarification if you would: 1) Which color temperature preset do you choose, and 2) when you refer to LOW lamp mode I presume you mean ECO?

I start with a picture preset i.e LIVING and take the inherent (does it default to LOW1 I can't remember) colour temp and tune it using the spyder2pro.

It doesn't really matter what starting colour temp you use as opposed to where you end up - this is not the case for the presets where the starting point must be drawn from the defaults in the menu.

Yes I mean ECO when I say low.
post #270 of 1081
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shelly View Post

Based on ROne's Living settings:

I have found two ways to increase the shadow detail.

One is to raise the Brightness from the -3 to 0.

The other is to leave Brightness at -3 and change the Gamma from -1 to 0. This is still a shade deeper blacks than the first method.

Which of the two ways has the least affect on other parameters like the D6500, or are they each suitable ways to increase shadow detail?

Thanks.

Shelly


That would have to be measured I would guess that moving the brightness is most likely to alter the colour balance - certainly from my experience.

They are two different settings though, brightness effectively altering the level of black, gamma altering (simulating) the distribution of dark to bright portions across the picture level.

Gamma will alter shadow detail but not lift the absolute black-level.

I've not had any problems with shadow detail with the LIVING settings but I only calibrate and use my projector in total darkness which would imply they are only suitable for that situation.

Like I say, I'm going to do another run with the LIVING, also don't forget the CC settings in the tweak doc are bang up to date and offer a better level of shadow detail than LIVING.
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