PLV-Z4 Tweak Thread - Page 26

On my system, with a matte white screen, I actually increased the brightness a little. For me, these have been the best settings by far. I agree that there's a little too much red on some broadcast sources, but not all. I haven't modified them with color management, and may give that a try. I've used ROne's and the late great CLK's settings and I seem to get the most three dimensional picture with eagles4. I'd urge folks to give them a shot and see what works on each individual system.

Definately I'd urge everyone to try all settings that work well for someone. You never know what might look good for you. With Eagles4's settings, they just didn't look good for football last night. I'll try to do it from scratch again tonight and then try to tweak it. Even with color management tweaks, it looked only fair compared to my previous settings. Maybe it'll look better tonight to me! Again, I don't know why it didn't look good.

I will say again, that people should try my Dynamic settings that I posted a while back. I have yet to see settings that gave as much detail or depth. They were done by a pro & I think they look excellent. The only issue is the dynamic iris but for outdoor applications, it's not an issue (ie football) and it looks unbelievable. The only tweak you might want to make is that it looks just a tad blue without color management.

I'm currently using eagles4 settings and am pretty happy. What is the best way to tone down the slightly blooming whites without disturbing the rest of the picture? Black and colors are good, it's just the whites that are a little troublesome.

I found the same problem with this setup over HDMI. In studying the reverse grey ramps on Video essential with this setup the result was very unevn blotchy and the last two white sections are way too bright

I will take cappras advice and try the color management to turn down the white but would appreciate the sttings you have previously posted Dweezilz if you please. I would like to try them out.

.

Here is the response from Ultralink cables on directionality.

" There are indicators on the VCV
cable because, when the copper is being pulled off the solid roll the is a
strain on the crystals in side. In order for the signal to get from
point A to point B with the less resistance we always have our cables
marked in the direction that the copper is pulled. Its like cutting
wood, when you cut with the grain it is easier, against the grain there
becomes resistance."

Hi,

I have connected my Z4 with HDMI to my Philips 5960 DVD Player. I used the tweaks described in this thread. The image is more than perfect. Now I have connected my Xbox to the Z4 with a vesa cable (I use the X2VGA adapter) . I use Xbox Media Center and display 720P. The image is nothing near to the DVD image, it's actually bad. Has someone encountered the same problem, or must I use component instead? Maybe someone has settings for VESA or component which can be shared here. I hope to get the image right. Strange thing is that the image on an Infocus X3 is much better?!

Hope to get some help...

Thanks!

ewok, my guess is the adapter is the culprit and might be doing something timing-wise to the signal that the Z4 doesn't like. Do you see any change if you force XBMC to 480? How does the MS dashboard (which outputs 480p) look?

With the 'official' MS component adapter the Z4 is so accurate you can clearly see differences in video stability between different Xbox versions and the decoder chips they use if you get close to the screen. The earlier xboxes produce a more solid image than the later ones...

Hi,

It seems that I did not set the dip switches in a correct way. Now have real vesa output (instead of composite....), but the image is still not sharp. This is obviously due to the low resolution divx movies. Maybe someone can share his/her settings with me, so I can try to get the image as good as possible.

I am going to try component as well, as I ordered a component adapter...

I have been using the various settings from members but have not been satisified. I have a Samsung 850 connected through HDMI. No matter what setting I use I either get the full black on the test disc of three black bars or crushed whites in the reverse gray ramps test. I get one or the other , not both which is what I am trying to achieve.

The Samsung manual has 4 settings for the HDMI;
RGB normal
RGB enhanced
Y P,..something something 4:4:4
Y P,..something something 4:4:2
It also has a brightness setting from 1 to 5

I have tried all these settings with the brightness between 1-3 I get the smooth gray scale but the third black bar is missing. At the 4-5 setting all three black bars are present but the gray scale is crushed for the last 3 or 4 white sections.

Question does anyone know the proper setting for the player?
Has anyone achieved the full spectrum in HDMI? I have done so with component on my other player. Finally it was mentioned that the whites could be reduced with the color management tool on the Z4. I have found that only colors are affected with this tool, black and white are not colors and are not adjustable. A exclaimation mark comes up on the screen if I try to adjust the white or black sections. Has anyone found a way around this?

I think that the essence of the color management tool is that you are making changes to the color decoder. These changes deal with different hues of color, while pure white is just that, thus doesn't fall under the color management tool. If you are getting too much 'blooming' etc...that is not a color issue, but a constrast and brightness issue so you'll need to make the fix elsewhere.

.

How is this accomplished as the color management tool only works for color not black or white i have found.

Sometimes white is displayed as not a true white. There can be slight blue or red highlights. You can put the colour management crosshairs on these highlights and tone them down a bit.

I just received my SpyderTv Pro and the first thing it requests you do before
you start your calibration is to disable your iris in your projector. I am confused
on how I do this. I see the auto, close, open option for Lamp iris and for lens iris
I see the settings 0 to -60.

Could someone who uses the Spyder calibration advise me how they disabled their iris so they could perform their calibrations.

I suspect their may not be a way to do this and most picked creative or living modes since uses less iris function.

I apprecitate any help to my questions and when done my calibrations will post
my results.

Thanks,
David

To clarify my post, I was only referring to pure white, not when it's blueish or reddish white. I thought his issue was blooming, which is not a huge or color issue and can't be corrected with the color management tool. Maybe it was someone else with the blooming issue.

As for inconsistent white, with LCD's, white can be a bit blue on one side and red on the other...there is mention of this in the service manual and it needs to be fixed via software from Sanyo. If what we are talking about is purposeful close to white but with some red or blue in it, then that is not true white and depending on how the Z4 'sees' that particular color, color management should be able to adjust it. I have found however that most whites are not adjustable in that tool. I'm sure it'll vary depending on how far from pure white it is.

The only time I really noticed the reddish white was when I was watching a football game thru component and using an older Sylvania HD tuner. No problem with my DVD player (HD-1)
I do have a question concerning the colour manangment. When changing the colours, am I making changes to adjust for the colour decoder on that particular piece of equipment?

I posted a similar question back in June and someone responded that if I set the IRIS to Open that it wouldn't go dim. I tried that at the time and it did not work. It was the last game so I didn't worry about it until now. I use the LIVING setting and the HDMI input. Any other suggestions, or did I miss something? Thanks.

You are making direct changes to the Z4's color decoder.

Whew! 26 pages later.

My Z4 arrives later this week.

Some good tips and LOTS of overwhelming info!

Cut and pasted some settings to try.

Going to be using component for the first little bit until I get my Oppo 971.

Did anyone ever get a true discrete on/off for their Pronto. I clipped the
2 in the thread but just checking.

Stupid questions to follow shortly. ;-)

I have now begun to notice the same on selected viewing material. It does not seem to happen with DVD but regular t.v. is very noticable the brightening and dimming of the picture. This occurs no matter what setting I am in, ( living, creative, etc.) I would have to assume it has something to do with the auto iris function. Further back in this thread was a way to defeat the action of the auto iris. I would think it a good idea to set a memory for t.v. with the auto iris defeated. When I get time I will attempt it although it is not all that bothersome. It may be more programming specific.

Hello Z4 owners:

I've never taken much stock in people's settings. It never worked for me when I had the Z1. However with the advent of HDMI I have played around with everyone's settings here in this thread.

It's amazing to me what I've discovered. I own AVIA and have always thought it was the best way to get my picture looking the best it can be. What I've discovered with the Z4 and HDMI however is really got me scratching my head.

I own an DA-LITE HCCV screen with Sanyo Z4 hooked directly to a Toshiba HD-A1.

When use AVIA I get way oversaturated results. I've used AVIA hundreds of times and I know I'm using it correctly.

So this lead me to play around with settings posted here in this thread. I must say I'm FINALLY happy after months of tweaking. I can't believe that the settings posted by 'eagles4' is the best picture I've ever seen in my setup. Although lacking just a bit in shadow detail I get one heck of an image that just 'pops out at you'. Keep in mind this is only for DVD and HD-DVD. I don't use it for anything else except an occasional xbox360 game.

Putting eagles4 settings in and then running AVIA to see how far the two are off just makes me dumbfounded. How can his settings look so good on my screen as compared to an oversaturated AVIA calibration?

Just thought I would share my experience.

THANK YOU EAGLES4..!!!

cappra sent his Z4 in to me to get his perfectly tuned (and provide for a calibration review for the rest). Just wanted to comment for the rest of you that the ColorManagement tool is not a color decoder adjustment (rather it is a color replacement - AKA Crayola!)- but it can be used as one if you find color/tint is not getting you dialed in.

Basically what happens is when you pick a color you can finetune all the colors near that color and the dark and light shades of those colors. So if you pick red than it will do all shades of red from white to black and all hues between orange and crimson. If you pick colors away from RGBCMY then it is more of a replace "that" color function. So stick to RGBCMY colors and use it with your RGB filters and the color decoder test patterns in AVIA etc. for use with those filters.

While it can be used to fix colored white highlites - those are caused by other problems - not the color decoder. So you fix a wrong bluish white - but you also change a correct pastel blue. Use it for fixing your Red pushed video. (sunburnt faces, lipstick lips). You may find you need to modify an Orange and Crimson to get it to function more like a color decoder adjustment - which would fix ALL Red push issues - but then there is no test pattern for those.

I have verified it's behavior using AVIA PRO and DisplayMate which have some extensive color gamut patterns.

Can you link to Eagle's settings? I have not been thrilled with my Z4 from day 1 and it is mostly due to the dynamic iris. What a joke that is. But I am willing to try anything I can to get an improved image.

Greg

Can you repost your settings? I gave up trying to get a really good picture out of my Z4 but am now motivated to try again.

Greg

Can anyone using a Toshiba HD-A1 post their settings, I'd like to compare

Here you go:

Start with Creative Cinema!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by eagles4
[... snip ...]

DVI/HDMI Settings:
Brightness -9
Contrast +7
Color +5
Tint 0
Sharpness 0
R +10
G 0
B -5
Gain R +3
Gain G 0
Gain B +11
Offset R +6
Offset G -1
Offset B -12
L1
Gamma 0
Lens Iris -25

[... snip ...]

I want to comment further on eagles settings. The picture is fantastic. However I wasn't happy with the shadow details lost in the dark screens.

I changed to L2 in the HDMI settins and then backed off the brightness (about -5) to where I felt I was getting good blacks and getting more details in the dark scenes. Also moved the lens iris to -40 so the iris doesn't keep flickering. The picture won't 'pop' as much but its a tradeoff I can live with.

Greg -

put the iris to -40. this helped me out a lot. this should stop the adjusting of the iris so much.

Dweezilz-

yes, please repost. I searched this thread and didn't see your actual post. Are you just using Rone's dynamic settings?

Kami -

I'm using HD-A1 with eagles settings.

As far as I can recall, ROne didn't do one based on Dynamic, only Creative Cinema and Living. This one is based on Dynamic and it's very nice for outdoor events and sports. It's also great for bright HD shows. Keep in mind that it has the lamp on max just so you realize it's not in it's life-span maximization mode! You'll also need to do the tweaks ROne posted for controlling the auto iris as it's pretty noticable in Dynamic mode. You won't really see it during sports and live presentations anyway which is where this setting really shines. You also might want to tone down blue if it's too cold for you. I have yet to see more detail in a picture than I do with this setting.

Use DYNAMIC as base for Componant but works nicely with HDMI L1 with a few adjustments:
B= 0
C= -4
C. Sat = +5
TINT = 0
Color Temp = MID OR HI (personal pref)
R = -10
G = 0
B = +5
SH = 0
Lamp Cont = Normal (full)
Gamma = +1
Lense Iris = -40
Lamp Iris = Auto
Turn off all artificial enhancements in adv. menu
everything not mentioned should be default
Needs color management to personal preferences
Might need to decrease offset blue and/or blue a bit (again personal pref)

I tried Eagles settings last night again. They look great as far as color goes...the best I've seen without color management tweaking. They weren't as bright as my other settings (ROne's Living setup or my Dynamic) though but the tradeoff for color might be worth it for certain shows. I think the lack of brightness for me is because of differences in screen material. I'm using a DaLite HCCV so it won't be nearly as bright as a high power white. The advantage of HCCV however is much better black levels and brighter picture with some ambient lighting on so I'll take that (for those times when company is over and we are eating in the theater). Thanks to Eagles4 for a nice alternative! Definately nice when more brightness isn't required.

Let me know what you guys think about those Dynamic settings I posted. They aren't perfect and I don't use it for everyting, but for certain programming they are very strong I think.

I use Eagle's settings as well, but not those for contrast & brightness -- those really need to be set for your particular room/screen. Also, I do not use any color and tint and adjustments on the HDMI input, as color decoding is being done by the source.