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RS-MMMaxx questions - Page 6

post #151 of 540
DO NOT sand the SM unless absolutely necessary because you have developed considerable texture.

I haven't read if your spraying or rolling, but I'll assume your rolling, or you would not be considering sanding.

Sanding SM dulls its reflectivity. You may not be looking for extra gain, but the loss of reflectivity equates to a less emphatic "Contrast enhancing" effect. No texture to be concerned about should be apparent if your using a Trim Roller, and applying the SM with a light touch and in modest amounts as far as loading the roller goes.

Only the second Top Coat should ever be considered as likely to need any sanding, and then, only just enough to create a slick, smooth, featureless appearence.

Between the RS-MaxxxMud Top Coat and the SM Base Coat, you should get some spectacular Black levels out of that 240K. Move the PJ as close as the focal length will allow and still give you the image size you desire. Also, reduce the Zoom to the same effect. Don't worry about Brightness, but if you do get a touch of sheen (hotspotting, then that's when you want to lightly sand the Top Coat.

With ANY coating, be sure that you have allowed it to dry "THROUGHLY" before you attempt any sanding, lest you gouge or "ball up" the finish instead of smooth it out.

Maybe Bcortez will swap ya that can of SS for some Homebrew? :P

But instead, if you can find something smooth yet tossable to paint some of the SS onto, you can do a comparison shot or two.
post #152 of 540
BTW, when you apply the Top Coat, you should do so knowing the following.....,

A. The first coat will not, should not cover the SM completely.

B. Each additional coat (hopefully only one more...) should be applied lightly, with emphasis on going over any roller marks.

C. If the Top Coat is as thin as the recipe calls for, it should offer you very little in the way of either Texture or roller marks.

D. The final objective is to just barely cover the SM to the point where your Top Coat looks evenly hued. You do not want it to be very thick at all.
post #153 of 540
ok- good tips- thanks.

I did lightly sand the SM after two coats, but I do have enough for a third. So you are saying that I may only need two thin coats of the MM top coat.... Will get those on sometime today.
post #154 of 540
If after the 2nd coat, you must strain hard to be able to see any vestige of the SM underneath, your most likely already there. The Lumens you posses can punch through the top coat under such circumstances. Ideally, the Top Coat will have enough reflectivity to return an excellent image, but the light that does absorb into the Top Coat should be darkened, or rather, the entire image across the surface is darkened by the undercoat. The nice thing is, if you err by having too little of the Top Coat on, you can always apply another coat. Too much, and you might as well of just painted it on top of something white.

It is the same with a Mirror, only a little tougher. But the best thing is that the RS_MaxxxMud does cover much better than the old white MMud, and it's silvery hue lends to matching up with the SM underneath more quickly.

Let us all know how it turns out.
post #155 of 540
Just to see, I turned on the PJ after the Delta SM was on- man, was that ugly.

True to other posts, the first top coat of RS-MM didn't look too hot. after about 1.5 hours of dry time I put on the second and it looks exponentially better. I'll let it cure tonight and check it out tomorrow.
post #156 of 540
OK- first impression was ESPN HD- the Peach Bowl. The line markers seemed to have a "MM" tint to them. Looked at some other HD programming that I was familiar with. Overall programming seemed a bit darker. Will probably have to redo AVIA.

Then I looked at a few movies. I had just watched the Untouchables last week so that was fresh in my mind. That looked better, with better blacks and overall better skin tones.

During one of the anti-piracy screens, and also with the default screen of my DVD player, I expanded the aspect to force the picture off the painted area onto the wall, which I was projecting on before. In this case I noticed the white level on the MM screen was clearly "whiter" (truer would probably be a beter word) than the eggshell wall.

I was afraid that I had too much top coat on, but I may not if the whites on the football game were showing up darker. I have good viewing area, no change from side to side or up/down. No hotspotting.

From what I read elsewhere, it takes a good week or more to cure and let that Poylcrylic stuff work it's way out, so we'll see. My son has our dig camera right now, so I won't have shots until next week.
post #157 of 540
Thanks- will try another thin coat tomorrow.
post #158 of 540
Oh fer Geesus Sayke!

From what was written, I can find nothing that needs fixin' at present.

If there is no hot spotting, you like your Whites, and you have increased Black levels, WAIT FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS!!!!

A thicker Top Coat will only work to reduce or even erase what benefit the SM is lending. Your blacks will only be as good as the RRS_MaxxxMud alone can deliver.

Ya gotta 'mermember, Ya can awllways add, butcha gets too much up dere 'n yer stuck wit whatcha gots frum dat time furward.

Happy New Year!
post #159 of 540
Hey MM,

Is this the Behr paint used in the mix?



Should the can say Deep Base on it somewhere? I need product numbers big time.
And do I thin the Ultra Pure White Gloss for the initial coat... with water?

The acrylic mirror is begging to be sprayed.
post #160 of 540
Thanks PB. So I spray the Ultra Pure White No. 1050 on first, and that gets diluted with the distilled water right? If yes, how much water to paint?
post #161 of 540
Kridian,

if i understand you correctly... you will be spraying an acrylic mirror.
if this is the case, then you must be confusing yourself with another application technique.
because with a mirror... you will not be spraying the upw. instead, it is an ingredient within the mix.
post #162 of 540
Where can I find instructions for a mirror application then?

The only paint I've purchased so far is the Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver & Pearl.

Thanks
post #163 of 540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kridian View Post

Where can I find instructions for a mirror application then?

The only paint I've purchased so far is the Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver & Pearl.

Thanks

Ya could'a gone a lookin' in da Bottoms.

Sit's awl ways a gud thin when a body takes a step back 'n asks afore squirtin'. Ya reallys wanna get the mix down partikularly currekly, and thens coat the mirror jus rightly so.

I's seen ya's post last night, an wanna responded, but ah's was dirt dog tired afta havin' been fightin' witta cantankrus Cieling mount PJ applikayshun fer 12 hours runnin', 'n den drivin' da 'pick me up' home fer 1-1/2 hours. I feels mytee puny purty easalee dese days.

I's wer mytee glads ta see PB_ step up 'n halts yer missdyrectid entenshuns.
He's gooder'n ary Angel. (quote: Loweezy Smith :Unquote)

Step aside, you illiterate Ghost Writer!

Below is a 2.75 quart formula. Plenty to allow a few practice passes on a test board as your getting used to the thinness of the RS_MaxxxMud.

Your ingredients;

16 oz. Behr Ultra Pure White Flat Exterior (HD)
16 oz. Behr Deep Base Flat Exterior (HD)
2 (8oz) bottles - Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver #02603 (Michaels)
2 (8oz) bottle - Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601 (Michaels)
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic Satin Finish (HD)
8 oz. Distilled Water

For a furst, er...first coat, you want to just dust the mirror lightly, passing across the mirror at about 2 feet per second and at 10" away. Overlap the top edge by 1/2, and likewise each subsequent row. At the bottom, you then go back to the top and repeat, just as quickly and as thinly, then STOP and let that coating dry. You should still see what appears to be a heavy application of window frosting that still allows the mirror to be plainly obvious. This then is your "primer" coat.

Returning to the mirror, you now repeat the previous application method, only reduce your speed to 1 foot per second. DO NOT go over this coat until dry.

You should only need 2 coats at 1 foot per second.

Should you need clarification, please post for such before you continue.

MMan
post #164 of 540
Copy that.

will... proceed... with.... caution.
post #165 of 540
rm-rf,

Quote:
Originally Posted by rm-rf View Post

...Here is what I have used so far
2 cans of the krylon bright silver metallic sprayed onto a 49x87 pice of 9.95 thrifty tile board.

You said earlier that krylon bright silver metallic shines like chrome. Thus, it is more reflective (mirror-like) than the thrifty white tile board and may provide more of a light-fusion effect, right? And where can I find the krylon bright silver metallic?
Quote:


After that dried I sprayed on 2 cans of Kylon Krystal clear waited till dry then scotchbrighted the whole thing till i had a uniform finish on whole screen.

And the Kylon Krystal clear, where can I find this?
Quote:


The mix I am using
1 qt Behr flat white
1 qt Behr flat base
1 qt Behr Pearl
2 of the smallest cans of Minwax satin polycrylic I think they were 5 oz each.
16 oz of distilled water. Found the mix to be pretty darn thick added this after I got home.

Only 2 more coats of paint to go

[With my arms tightly folded, watching the clock...tick..tock..tick..tock]...how did it come out?
TH
post #166 of 540
The Krylon paints can be found at most craft stores as well as Kmarts.

The Mixx went on well it took a few more coats than 3 till I was happy with the coverage over the silver. This may have been due to the minwax I added to the mix. After it cured for 3 days I wet sanded the whole screen till i could just start to see the smallest hint of the silver through the mix. I did not recoat after wetsanding.

My projector should be back in working order by this friday or monday. Im waiting for the big brown truck to show up If the screen works as nice as it looks I'll be a happy camper
post #167 of 540
wow... all that work and no PJ to give it a go...

admit it... you're bitin' your nails waitin' for the brown truck to show up!

i see you went with a MMudd topcoat/SM basecoat.

we'll be waiting to hear from ya.
post #168 of 540
I've started painting my screen finally. Put the coats of pearl/sm mix on back of the plexiglass. I've put two coats of the regular formula of RS_MMMaxx on the front so far. What I'm wondering is if there is a way to tell if I need another coat of paint or not without putting the projector on it. I'm painting in my garage, and my pj is in the basement, and i'm too lazy to cart the screen all the way down if I don't have to. Thanks for the help

brian
post #169 of 540
i'm not sure how to explain making that visual judment...

however, i definitely recommend you putting a third coat of pearl/sm on the backside before completing the screen with a thin third coat of maxxmudd on the frontside.

it's important that the backside be as opaque as possible.

we want the PJ light to penetrate the topcoat... but as little as possible (or not at all) of the basecoat.
post #170 of 540
Thanks maxxx

Got three coats on the backside now, but it still allowed light to pass through. I'll put another coat or two on the back to be sure. I do think it needs a third coat on the front as well, just wasn't sure if a fourth was ever necessary.

brian
post #171 of 540
OK-

Painted the rest of the theater Wilmington Tan after taping up the screen. This gave me the opportunity to let the screen cure so I wasn't watching it several times a day to see if it was changing.

To recap I had a base of 2 UPW coats, then 3 Delta SM coats, then two thin coats of RS/MM (see post #184). No sanding needed, no touchups, no nothing.

The day after the RS/MM went on the screen had a silver tint, not much noticeable improvement. After a week of curing, what an improvement! Bright whites, good black levels...

If you are thinking about doing this, I recommend going forward! I really enjoy the improvement without paying for a mfg screen.

Thanks to PB and MM for the help.
post #172 of 540
Maxxx-a-mum enjoyment to you & yours!

A 5 coater eh?

Shoot us some shots asap.

Please, that is.
post #173 of 540
Welp watched my first movie on my screen. Freaking Awsome. Blacks are black whites are white, colors are vivid looks as good as or even better than some high end bigscreen TVs I've seen. I even have my projector in light saving Econo mode 940 Lumens. Its only a sharp xr-1s, nothing high end. Look back at my previous posts in this thread for the mix I used and details. With the mix I made it took a lot of coats, I think due to addition of the minwax but all the work was well worth it. Thanks to everyone who posted the info on the forums that I drew from for my mix and screen.
post #174 of 540
HAH Comcast has The 5th Element in HD in the On Demand section for free. Hah I had to watch it in HD just due to all the screenshots from it in all the projector forums
post #175 of 540
Well, did it measure up to our efforts?
post #176 of 540
Wow! Congrats rm-rf!

I might have to go HD soon!

Hey MM, what solvent do you use to clean out your spray gun (Ingersoll Rand)?
post #177 of 540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kridian View Post

Wow! Congrats rm-rf!

I might have to go HD soon!

Hey MM, what solvent do you use to clean out your spray gun (Ingersoll Rand)?

One of the most caustic and dangerous substances known to man.

Warm Tap Water at the greatest pressure I can get without taking a bath.

I disassemble it entirely, (Fluid Knob-Spring- Air Atomizer Cap - Nozzle & Needle) and rinse backwards through the threaded opening for the nozzle. AFTER a good rinsing, I use the little brush provided to scrub out the throat of threaded Cup receptical.

Of course, I rinse through the Nozzle and use the brush to clean out the inside, a toothpick in necessary to route out any paint that hangs up in the needle opening on the nozzle, rinse through and scrub off the Air Atomizer, wipe off the needle.

I let it all dry throughly before I re-assemble everything.

In a perfect world, all of the above should be done, and just as soon as possible after your done sending paint through the gun. Between coats as well. It all water based paint, but any untoward delay can effectively clog up the little air ports on the Atomizer, reduce the flow around the needle, and help develop a "skin" of paint inside the needle chamber that later can flake off during painting and clog up your flow.

Now I've often had to clean up outside, using a garden hose, or even the spigot only. I've jammed the end of a High pressure Hose nozzle against the front threaded hole and let it purge the gun like crazy. Also I've done likewise with the Atomizer and nozzle, watching the little streams that shoot out. Usually I get quite a soaking during such cleaning, but the pressure I get to use make getting the gun throughly clean well worth it.

NEVER depress the trigger while rinsing water through the gun or you can get water down inside the Regulator and it will then surge and sputter all the time, requiring a new Regulator.

Solvents are NOT required with water based paints, and can actually shorten the needle's air gasket's life. Also, re-assembling the gun before it is dry can lead to the build up of a waxy coating inside the paint chamber around the needle. Ya gotta dig that out laboriously with a toothpick then.

A little story.

The first time I ever tried a HVLP, I was quirting Goo on a SM undercoat. I then used paint solvent in the "cleaned Paint Cup" and ran some through it firing down into a bucket. What a mess, and it labeled me a pretty silly guy to my associate, who somehow had bothered to read the instructions that stated to rinse water based paint out with water..

That was almost 4 years ago, and still I'm catching flack from him.

Just treat the HVLP like a tool that will perform best if everytime you use it, it is "as new', and clean accordingly. Judge you time factor well, and don't procrastinate at all as far as cleaning it out after use. NEVER set it close to a heat source before cleaning or the paint outside and inside will dry out quicker that you can imagine due to the conductivity of heat through the Gun's metal construction.

I've had my particular 270 for two years, and it's seen it's way through approx (censored) LF screens for (censored) Customers. I've replaced a broken Regulator, but other than that, by keeping it clean, it has always performed exactly as I needed it to.

I'll close by saying that when spraying with the HVLP method, any paint intended for use as a screen surface, thinning the paint until it flows freely is paramount as to if you will get good results, and a smooth finish. You have to move quicker, and apply less each time, but the evenness of coverage, the ability of the paint to flow together at transition point overlaps, and the ease of clean up afterwards all contribute to a pleasurable and nowadays, quite simple and trouble-free experience.

Keep it Clean.
Thin is In.
post #178 of 540
Thanks for the detailed cleaning info! Warm tap water--of course!

So I take it you use the regulator that came with the gun? Didn't your compressor come with a regulator?

Do you have your water/air filter installed close to the gun? Sorry if this is off-topic.
post #179 of 540
I didn't have the most steady hand and we don't have a tripod. As a side note, I was in Best Buy and they had the superbit 5th element for 9.99, the regular version was 14.99, so I picked one up for grins.

These are shots that I have seen elsewhere.

Ruby Rod, the Diva and Leeloo
LL
LL
LL
post #180 of 540
Here's Darla....
LL
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