RS-MMMaxx questions - Page 7

This may be hard to tell, from left to right.. Left is the wall color, middle stripe is bare wall (where I taped to do the screen outline) and right is the RS/MM

Great Stuff!

But don't post any more "Screen Shot" images as attachments.

A rule was laid down (...it's also posted at the head of the DIY Forum...) to "PLEASE DO NOT POST SCREENSHOTS".

Bandwidth and Storage issues are the root supposedly, because of course, we all get excited about good results and want to share.

But you have to do it via a Web Server or Photo Site via hot links.

I'm sure we'll have no repurcussion here as you about the only person in decades that has done the "Dirty Deed".

Post all the shots of your Screen, or as many shots that are "Comparisons" like your last attachment, but as for Eye Candy, get it uploaded via links from someone else's server's storage bin.

We'as po people herin',

Just for everyone's information: I used white tileboard, and I liked it with my AE900U (in a controlled light room) but it did hotspot like crazy. I used the RS-MMMaxx-LL mix, and am very pleased!! It is awesome on tileboard. 3 coats, did not sand. Great, true colors, blacks and whites very good. Just wanted to pass along my thanks and to let everyone else know this is a killer combination in my opinion.

Yes it did, but I have since replaced it when it's glass facing got cracked.

I place my Water/Rust filter at the outlet of the compressor, opting to put as dry a air supply into the hose as possible to prevent condensation. One could "Two stage" it by putting it between a longer hose from a compressor and a shorter one to the Gun, but I don't see the need.

But the use of a GOOD water filter is vital. No little 4" tall x 1- 1/2" diameter job will suffice. It has to be a decent one to remove any real amount of water.

Thanks Thomas!

And your also Welcome!

But if you want to be really apprecitive, take some shots of your screen w/& without an image, and post then up under a new thread. That way, more can read and appreciate what you yourself have discovered.

Not a requirement, or even an expectation, but something we like to see happen as a consideration whenever possible. Certainly, posting your findings, if not any images, in a new thread at least can help others make a decision that they too can benifit from..

How's Cincy? I have to pass through there twice next week in route to NY and then back across to LA. Being a Indy native, Cincy seems like my side yard.

As this is the questions thread, I figure I may as well ask a question . I have a spare mirror sitting around the house and I was thinking of trying a LF screen. My main problem at the moment is I live knowhere near a Michaels and I'm having a hard time finding the Metalic Silver and Pearl paints. Are there any alternatives? I live in Southern Ontarion (Niagara Region) if there's anybody that could help it would be great. I hope to get the screen started as soon as I could get the right mix together.

Dude wetsand it a lil

Hmm a lil observation.
A friend and I both got sharp XR-1s projectors at the same time.
He purchased a used commercial roll down screen.
I of course did my own Mixx screen.

We were talking on the phone last night and he commented about the rainbow effect he was seeing from his projector. I told him I have not seen any hint of rainbow effect on mine. I told him to bring his projector over to my house and I would see if it was his projector settings or something. We plugged it in and could not see any rainbow effect on my screen at all. So then we took my projector over to his house and sure enough I could see hints of the rainbow effect on his commercial screen.

His screen is larger than mine and it also looks like a high gain screen I could not find a brand name on it. It has that real fine graining to it that looks like itty bitty particles of glass like the screens did back when I was in high school. (I can almost remember those days )

I am wondering if screen gain or something else related to screens has a bearing on the dlp rainbow effect or is it just the larger screen size, my screen is a 16:9 100" diagonal his has to be at least 140" diagonal.

To sum things up I gave him the 1/2 gallon of my screen mix I had left over and he is going to duplicate my screen. I told him I will bring popcorn over to sit and watch him wetsand it HAH.

I'm getting ready to start a RS-MMMax on MDF, was going to use UPW glossy as base until I read about results using Delta MS. We'll I only picked up enough Delta for the prescribed RS-MMMax, but I've got plenty of Behr MS. Is the Behr MS considered inferior to the Delta at this point for base coat?

Here's current plan. All sprayed.

1/2 inch or 3/4 inch MDF.
2 coats UPW glossy
2 coats Behr SM
2 thin coats RS-MMMax.

Thanks!

winxxniw,

what projector are you working with? and what are your viewing conditions?

also, shoot me a PM. i'll give you a couple of suggestions that might save you some time and headache. basically, it has to do with the behr sm and the upw glossy. i got a couple thoughts/pointers you might consider for those two. then follow that up with a couple coats of rs-maxxmudd and hopefully you'll be beaming with pride at your new screen.

-maxx

EzRush, the Delta paints can be found at about any craft store, as well as Wal Mart. There are also plenty of online vendors, just search on "delta paint".

I just recieved and setup my Dell 2300MP PJ Last night. Again no noticable DLP rainbow effect on my screen. Going to take it over and try it on the commercial screen as well.

I just finished painting a test mirror with the regular mix and put it up on my BOC screen and well it blends right in and looks the exact same.
Couple quick questions
Could I have put to much paint on?
I rolled it onto the mirror instead of sprayed
Is it strange that it looks the exact same, also could it be because it's very small about 1'x1'.

Projector used is an AE700. I would just like to get some questions answered before I go on to Paint the big mirror.

Thnx

unfortunately a 1x1 test screen won't give you much to look at especially in a controlled environment. with a ae700 your gonna get a gain of about .09-1.0 gain which is nearly the same as the BO. the white levels of the two will be near identical. however, the black levels should be slightly increased. this is more noticeable on a larger scale test screen and also with a full screen in front of you.

also with a mirror two things tend to happen. too thick and the mirror plays too little of a role. too thin and the mirror plays too much of role. in the second scenerio... because of the transparency of the mix, the mirror wants to be the 'lead actor' instead of the topcoat. as it cures and bonds tighter, the topcoat pushes the mirror into a more 'supporting role' it's better to have it too thin at first... because you can always add much easier than to sand down and start over...

Hey MM, why am I getting this spattering from the mix? I had the pressure up to 40lbs, then turned it up more but didn't really help. Here's some pics.



Materials


The Paint up close


I used your suggested dosage:
16 oz. Behr Ultra Pure White Flat Exterior (HD)
16 oz. Behr Deep Base Flat Exterior (HD)
2-(8oz) bottles - Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver #02603 (Michaels)
2-(8oz) bottle - Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601 (Michaels)
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic Satin Finish (HD)
8 oz. Distilled Water

Oh, and do you use that little filter that fits in between the cup and the top of the gun?

Hey MMan, why have you recommended biglyle's formula? Is it because it's better than the proportions you or pb_maxxx previously espoused? It appears this would explain why you've recommended it to Kridian by PM instead of in the public forum.

That's not any formula that BigLyle ever posted. That's another iteration of RS_MMaxxxMudd.

Sorry all. I thought I got it from one of biglye's posts, and I don't recall pb_maxxx or MMan ever posting it. Sure would be helpful to have these formulas all posted in one thread. I used this mix with Kilz2 white primer instead of UPW and it looks good rolled over my 2 mil mylar test panel. Thanks psennett.

Gun spitting paint.

Check valve not operating properly. Clean or replace valve assembly.


1. Material too thick
2. Wrong needle/nozzle assembly
3. Cup seal leaking
4. Loose packing
5. Material not properly mixed or improperly filtered

Hope this helps.

I hope that I just need to add more water.

Waiting for the MM confirmation.

Splattering can occur because of the use of too small a nozzle tip with too thick a paint mix, or because you do not have the male threadded interior nozzle tightened to the body of the Gun's face.

Check the latter, then the former. Thinning will alleviate the former.

NO.

Lose it, and strain your paint with a $.99 1 gallon sock Strainer.
I did not read this post first, so that little ditty goes up to number one on the list of probable causes.

Hi MississippiMan. Sorry for the late response. After completing my screen, I cut way back on reading this forum--no need anymore. Not sure if that's good or bad!

Cincy is good! Hope you have a safe trip through.

I will do my best to post screen shots-have tried twice unsuccessfully to post several shots in the screen shot forum. Not sure what I am doing wrong.

Thanks again, Tom

MM,

Today I watered down the mix a lot more and finally sprayed the last coat of the mirror with RS-MMMaxx.

Tonight I tested it with my 4805 and the first thing I noticed was that all text against a colored background was hazey. Actually you can see this effect in any high contrast image, but I guess it's the light 'blooming' underneath the paint layer.

I realize that I still need to give the screen some time to cure but if I see the same results after a couple of days, should I spray on another coat?

Thanks.

That would be the conventional wisdom. Hazy text means there is too much infused light behind the painted surface. Since your paint is now thinned, applu another coating. Don't be worried about applying too much, just go at it in a manner you do not have any drips or runs. One coat, then get away and wait until it's dry, then test again.

The MinWax adultrated paint takes more than a few short hours to cure to somethin akin to hardness however, and if your not applying heat like I often do, or waiting a full 24 hours+ before testing, you might be getting a result that is not indicative of what it will look like in 2-3 days.

If your patience is well practiced, waiting for that amount of time and doing another test mught just result in a pefectly done Light Fusion, for it is the balance between thickness, and light returned that produces the "Glow" without haze. If on the other hand, after such a wait, a haze on text is still apparent, you cannot do wrong by applying another even coating.

always good a hear another success story...
and another N2 filter is no longer needed resulting in a sharper picture...
good stuff.


above quote was from the Best DIY Screen for the Infocus 4805 used in a Very Dark Room thread.

Now the last part of that quote, THAT's something.

Now the last part of that quote, THAT's something.

Back in December '05 I read a thread that I can no longer find where it was stated by MississippiMan that silver metallic paint can darken an image whether it's in the base coat or in the top coat. I don't recall whether it was stated that it is best to have the darkening in the base coat or in the top coat.

Does anyone remember such recommendations. However, it seems to me that if a darker coat is the topcoat, the screen will appear darker in ambient light indicating it will have better ambient light rejecting properties and more visible black levels. Thus, while the screen appears dark, the lighter basecoat below will amplify the whites only by the projector's beam.

Was this actually said, or am I totally irrelevant.

TH

The accepted rule is a Lighter Base coat, and a Darker Top coat for best CR enhancement. But Darker Base Coats under Lighter Top Coats can work too, but usually have the effect of reducing overall screen luminance.

Usually.



Not at all. It is the darker Top Coat concept that 'overlays' the entire Ambient Light idea. But what happens when that Top Coat accepts the PJ's light is the real story. Dark Grays can certainly assist viewing a projected image in moderate ambient light (if you have enough lumens) but the resulting loss of color vibrancy and 'pure' whites makes it unacceptable to most current enthusiasts.

But innovation and desire has several different folks on this Forum attacking the problem of achieving Ambient Light performance without adversely affecting other aspects of the image. And quite varied are the different approaches being taken. Soon, a few will shake out to be the best course for one to follow, and that would be the most likely time for you to make your decision.

Who knows though....., by then, the Voodoo practicioneers of the Black Flame sect might have some other bizarre magic in store for the unsuspecting AVS'er to consider.

Who knows indeed???!!!!!