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RS-MMMaxx questions - Page 8

post #211 of 540
bringing this back up, can't let it fall down!

Anyway I'm about to paint my screen. I have both 3/16" nap rollers, and 1/4" dense foam rollers. Which one would you guys recommend I use for both the UPW base coats and the RS top coats? I'm painting directly on flat-painted drywall.
post #212 of 540
Okay tell me if I'm doing right. I just mixed up a batch of basecoat and RS-MMMaxx. This will be for a ~75" screen in a 10' x 10.5 ft. room. Projector is a 4805.

as suggested by PB I made a base mix of:

1 qt. UPW gloss
1/2 qt. Minwax polycrylic gloss
1/4 qt. water

Then in post #133 PB listed a 2-qt. version of the regular mix, which is what I made:

16 oz. Behr Ultra Pure White Flat (HD)
08 oz. Behr Deep Base Flat Exterior (HD)
16 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver #02603 (Michaels)
12 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601 (Michaels)
12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic Satin Finish (HD)
06 oz. Distilled or Tap Water

Sound good? Just wanting to make sure I get this right (I sure hope so, I've already mixed it! ) since this thread gets pretty confusing with all the different types and sizes of mixes that have been listed so far.

Also with respect to sanding, how long should I wait between coats? It seems like in order to sand, I would need to wait several hours or overnight between the coats that I intend to sand. Or maybe if I use those foam rollers I might not have to sand. Thoughts?
post #213 of 540
Quote:
Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94 View Post

Okay tell me if I'm doing right. I just mixed up a batch of basecoat and RS-MMMaxx. This will be for a ~75" screen in a 10' x 10.5 ft. room. Projector is a 4805.

as suggested by PB I made a base mix of:

1 qt. UPW gloss
1/2 qt. Minwax polycrylic gloss
1/4 qt. water

Then in post #133 PB listed a 2-qt. version of the regular mix, which is what I made:

16 oz. Behr Ultra Pure White Flat (HD)
08 oz. Behr Deep Base Flat Exterior (HD)
16 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver #02603 (Michaels)
12 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601 (Michaels)
12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic Satin Finish (HD)
06 oz. Distilled or Tap Water

Sound good? Just wanting to make sure I get this right (I sure hope so, I've already mixed it! ) since this thread gets pretty confusing with all the different types and sizes of mixes that have been listed so far.

Also with respect to sanding, how long should I wait between coats? It seems like in order to sand, I would need to wait several hours or overnight between the coats that I intend to sand. Or maybe if I use those foam rollers I might not have to sand. Thoughts?

Check out the "Rolling with Foam" thread for tips on rolling.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ht=foam+roller
post #214 of 540
PatrickGSR94,

that sounds good to me. however, given that you are using a 4805... if you have it... i'd consider adding another 4oz of the white pearl to the mix. this will insure that you won't be losing anything with respect to white levels... especially if you intend to do most of your viewing in a controlled setting.

also, don't be afraid of the water. my recommendation of 6oz is definitely on the low end... so don't be afraid to use as much as 8oz-10oz... just remember that thin is in.

with respect to sanding...

sand after the 2nd coat of basecoat (before your first topcoat of maxxmudd)

if and only after your 2nd coat of maxxmudd you want a very smooth final finish then lightly hand sand your 2nd coat with a 3M fine finish sanding sponge. if you lightly hand sand... you only need to wait a couple of hours to do so.

best of luck.
post #215 of 540
thanks for the suggestions, I'll just drop the rest of the bottle of pearl in there, maybe add a bit more water and get it shaken again.

I was hoping to get started on this tonight, but there just aren't enough hours in the day. I have GOT to get it going tomorrow night, though. I'm trying to have everything ready for my Super Bowl party on Sunday.
post #216 of 540
It's better to actively stir the thinner mixes than shake.

The "squirrell cage" mixing introduces less air bubbles and that's a good thing if your rolling. Otherwise, straining the paint after shaking will also serve to eliminate bubbles.
post #217 of 540
well I took it to Lowe's last night and I don't know what kind of machine they have, but it looked like it might actually spin the can around, with the can situated at an angle, rather than actually shaking it. I'm not sure, though.

When I got home I looked in the RS mix and it looked like there was dark flecks floating on top. Normal?
post #218 of 540
I don't know what the squirell cage thing is, is that a mixing technique, or a machine?

Should I just dump in the rest of the pearl and mix (stir) it by hand?
post #219 of 540
RS_MaxxMud will seperate a bit after sitting for a while, but re-mixes easily with the suggested mixing tool.
post #220 of 540
Quote:
Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94 View Post

I don't know what the squirell cage thing is, is that a mixing technique, or a machine?

I thought everybody knew about that.

It's a small "Drill powered" Mixing tool available at Home Depot that looks like a Squirrell / Hamster exercise wheel.
post #221 of 540
hmm i haven't seen one like that.

My dad has one that's like 2 rectangular hoops coming off of a shaft, and another one, which is what professionals use when mixing mortar and grout and stuff, that looks like a big mixer beater like you use in the kitchen.

So this squirell cage thing will mix paint in a 1-gallon gan w/o splattering and slinging it out everywhere?
post #222 of 540
Quote:
Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94 View Post

hmm i haven't seen one like that.

My dad has one that's like 2 rectangular hoops coming off of a shaft, and another one, which is what professionals use when mixing mortar and grout and stuff, that looks like a big mixer beater like you use in the kitchen.

So this squirell cage thing will mix paint in a 1-gallon gan w/o splattering and slinging it out everywhere?

Here is a link to one. . You can get this or something like it at all major home stores.
post #223 of 540
Okay I just picked up that exact one in the link from HD, the one that separates for use in quart-size cans. It definitely looks like a winner, I'll never have to take paint to a store to get it mixed again.

However when I use it, it looks like it's putting a ton of tiny air bubbles in the paint. Am I doing something wrong? I'm pretty sure I followed the directions on the package....

Anyway I just re-mixed and rolled on the first coat of the UPW basecoat... we'll see how it comes out.
post #224 of 540
Okay I got the 2nd coat of RS-MMMaxx on a little over an hour ago, and just got done lightly sanding with a 320-grit sponge and then wiping it down. The roller marks look pretty bad right now. Do you all think the 3rd coat will clear that up?
post #225 of 540
I rolled on the 3rd Top Coat around 10:30 last night, and it looked like it was pretty even at the time. However this morning around 7 I could still see faint roller marks. Will it even out over the next few days, or should I roll on a 4th coat? Suggestions?
post #226 of 540
you're almost there. this mix is certainly thin and transparent enough that in your case, a 4th coat sounds like it's needed to get the desired finish.
post #227 of 540
alright I'll do that tonight. I just hope I can get it to look decent before people come over Sunday.

I'm having a bit of a difficult time knowing how much paint to load on the roller, and how much to roll out on my scrap hardboard so that I can roll on the wall without having to press too hard so it won't leave roller marks.
post #228 of 540
PatrickGSR94,

load a fair amount of paint on the roller and make sure it's even spread by using the paint pan's roller board.

once i've determined the roller is loaded evenly... i go straight from the roller pan to the screen or wall... i don't roll it on the extra hardboard first. don't worry about getting a really thin coat... because simply, unless you have a very good rolling technique... a very thin coat is much harder to keep from getting roller marks then an evenly covered medium coat. i work evenly from left to right... and once you've finished on the right side... do not dryroll back over the what you just completed on the left. the extra drying time afforded by the medium coat and by not dry rolling... will allow the wetness of the mix, time, and gravity to help elminate roller marks.
post #229 of 540
So you roll up and down, going from right to left? That is how I've done all the coats so far.

Would it make any difference if I rolled from side to side, starting at the top and going to the bottom?
post #230 of 540
Yeah, the screen is far wider than tall so you'll be fading out and in paint more often. Give yourself a break and go vertical for the first coat, and slightly cross wise when needed to blend in vertical roller marks
post #231 of 540
PatrickGSR94 once your screen fully dries you will really appreciate this mix...if you are using a N2 filter on your 4805...remove it, as I found it is no longer needed...your PQ will really POP with a sharper image and screaming colors...I only have 2 coats on mine.

Question: I have a some paint left over, how long does this mix last in a covered plastic container?
post #232 of 540
Yeah I ended up putting a 4th coat on mine, but my mix is pretty thin. It looks really great now. I just got done making a frame (border) for the screen using 1x4 strips wrapped in black fleece.

For your leftover mix I would get an actual paint can from the hardware store to keep it in. It will separate, but just get one of those squirrel cage mixers for about $6. I got one and it is awesome for reconstituting liquids that have separated or just need to be stirred up.
post #233 of 540
Quote:
Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94 View Post

Yeah I ended up putting a 4th coat on mine, but my mix is pretty thin. It looks really great now. I just got done making a frame (border) for the screen using 1x4 strips wrapped in black fleece.

For your leftover mix I would get an actual paint can from the hardware store to keep it in. It will separate, but just get one of those squirrel cage mixers for about $6. I got one and it is awesome for reconstituting liquids that have separated or just need to be stirred up.

I was thinking about diluting the leftover mix with some distilled water and giving my screen a very light 3rd coat, problem is the mix is about 2-3 months old...and yes I have a squirrel cage mixer, it is a great tool. Maybe I should just keep it at 2 coats...I hate to ruin a good thing.
post #234 of 540
Well, I had people over at my house last night, and we watched a little of the Incredibles as a demonstration of the theater room. On bright scenes I could still see some faint roller marks on one side of the screen

I guess a thin 5th coat is the only answer, short of sanding everything off and starting over from scratch?
post #235 of 540
if the marks are faint... they may well fade as the paint cures and with time. give us an update in about week or so...
post #236 of 540
hmmm okay will do... when I noticed the roller marks I was sitting on the floor over towards the right side, looking up at the screen, and the roller marks were on the right side of the screen. Last night I had Back to the Future on as I was adjusting my projector's aim and position, and then watched it for a bit at normal seating position, a little more towards the left of the screen actually, and didn't notice any roller marks really... but then again I wasn't paying that close attention.

Also I think some of the scenes in the Incredibles have brighter whites than most of the scenes in BTTF so I'm sure that makes a difference.
post #237 of 540
PM and MM

I am ready to make the plunge. in some of the latest posts you both seem to have a slight variance of the mixture

PM Version
16 oz. Behr Ultra Pure White Flat (HD)
08 oz. Behr Deep Base Flat Exterior (HD)
16 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver #02603 (Michaels)
12 oz. Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601 (Michaels)
12 oz. Minwax Polycrylic Satin Finish (HD)
06 oz. Distilled or Tap Water

MM Verison
16 oz. Behr Ultra Pure White Flat Exterior (HD)
16 oz. Behr Deep Base Flat Exterior (HD)
16oz Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver #02603 (Michaels)
16oz Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601 (Michaels)
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic Satin Finish (HD)
8 oz. Distilled Water

Which do I use?

I will be using about a 1000 lumens DLP projector in a light controlled room (no windows dark floor dark walls, etc.) I have the do-able board that I will be painting.

So what mix do I use?

Thanks!
post #238 of 540
dpdixon,

mm and i have made several different suggestions to folks depending on their PJ and room conditions with respect to ambient light.

the version you'll want to use the LL version which uses a little bit more of the pearl and slightly less of the silver metallic. i've also very recently begun to cut down my use of the deep base as well...which has too much of flattening effect. the result is an ever so slight amount of gain.
post #239 of 540
I concur.

One of the main differences in our mixing ratios lie in the fact that I also make bigger mixes, and do larger screens. Inasmuch, I usually mix in a little extra Silver to keep things poppin' around the edges. However, I learn from doing, watching, and reading, and no small amount of hobbknobbing with the PB_'ster

PB_'s stated ratios are indeed best for a lower lumen PJ, especially a DLP, whose image never shines as bright "per lumen expended" as LCDs.

There has been a rush toward the use of LCDs now that many, if not most all of the issues that have plagued such PJs have been addressed.

In just 1 more week, I'll have a Sony Ruby shooting onto a 110" Black Flame "Super Lite" in San Diego for a recent "off Forum" aquaintence. A recent conversation with another AVS Ruby owner who tried his PJ out on a BFLF "Lite" in Cally-forn-Ia last month clued me into what would be necessary to adjust a mix for that great PJ, that unfortunately has only 800 lumens.

That owner mentioned above now is using a Silver Star to get his desired "Kick" and "Whiter whites" than he saw occur on a screen made up for a Sony HS-51. His results are something I'm shooting for to match up against his current screen, in a good natured way akin to the old "CMRA vs MMan" rivalry. His evenhanded way of viewing the differences means I/we all can count on a honest evaluationas to how far toward matching screen output via 800 lumens, compared against a Silver Star's performance, a DIY application can go.

Stay tuned.
post #240 of 540
I got everything for the RS_MAXX mix and noticed that I should wait 40 to 45 min between coats. Would I be any worse off doing one coat tonight, one tomorrow and one the next night??
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