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RS-MMMaxx questions - Page 11

post #301 of 540
Props to everyone on this thread. This is where I got most of my information from. The mix is awesome.
post #302 of 540
It's been five months since I first read of the mix and finally I got some time to attempt this screen. As I'm writing this the second coat is drying. It will be interesting to compare with the Goo screen that I aready have up.
I'm painting it in the Ht and can easily see the color(grey) hue is very close to the Goo screen, but as I said, it is only the second coat.
post #303 of 540
The Goo screen has the benefit of having a semi-translucent Top Coat. That should not make that much of a difference though, but if you decide to try one over the RS-MaxxMudd screen, THAT might ramp up your brightness levels considerably more.

Or you might find it wholly redundant to consider. Either way, I'm sure your headed for a long spell in front of your new screen.
post #304 of 540
I've put three coats throughout the day onto a Duratherm board. I probably should've waited a little longer to put the third coat on. Is it unheard of to apply four coats?
It didn't seem to me that the third coat did the coverage that it should have.
As is, the brightness, sharpness, and color is phenomenal. The Goo screen does have better blacks, but otherwise the other elements of the picture suffer. Funny thing is when I first got the Goo I was impressed with the picture, except for the roller marks that never quite dissapeard. In fact, that was the reason for making another screen. There is the perceived black level that works quite well with the Rs screen which is a good trade off.
There is a small problem though. Slight, VERY slight roller marks still show and there are small pinpoints of what looks like the durotherm showing through. I will wait another 24 hours to put a fourth layer on unless anyone has a better suggestion.
Btw, I plan to make the RS screen the keeper and do away with the Goo screen, OR should I experiment, and paint a layer of the Rs over the Goo screen? I think this is what you (MM) were alluding too, was it not?
post #305 of 540
KLAATUWI,

definitely put on a 4th coat when using the durotherm. i get the same coverage issue when rolling the durotherm as you do. it's the only substrate of the bunch that does that. the roller marks are a result of the thinness/tranlucency of the paint and should dissappear with a 4th coat.

also, with the 4th coat your black levels will be much improved.

the real improvements to rs-mmmaxx came after black flame was introduced and sorta got lost in the shuffle. the best thing about it is... it's SOOO simple to make a mix of. that is... if your willing to make a trip to two stores instead of one.
post #306 of 540
Thank you in advance, pb.
btw, Are we the only ones that stay up at all hours of the night reading this forum?
post #307 of 540
you'd be surprised how many folks are here at night. it's the only time i have a moment to myself...

...that and the fact that... it's the only time my so-called high speed 'comcast' internet has been up in the past 3 days!!!
post #308 of 540
You guys should update the front page with a few lines describing how to spray the mix to a mirror.
post #309 of 540
i've updated the rs-mmmaxx mixes... the LL has been taylored for less cost and less waste. it now also has the delta pale metallic gold as a component.

the first page now has all sorts of tips, info, and techniques for the application of the rs-mmmaxx mixes... including spraying and rolling. it's similiar to the first page of the black flame thread.

have fun.
post #310 of 540
pbmaxx,

I noticed on the regular rsmaxxmud formula you decreased the UPW and increased the gold a bit. Can you comment on those changes and what we could expect to see? Also, what does the gold do apart from the silver and pearl?
post #311 of 540
kengm,

the decrease in upw gives the mix some added gain. along with the increase in the ratio metallics... a slight amount of pale gold is increased to offset any possible resulting blue push. the pale gold also does a fine job of enhancing skin tones with little to no compromise on the rest of the color scale... which is a positive.

the changes to the rs-mmmaxx mixes here, also mirror those of black flame.
post #312 of 540
I started a thread recently asking how to improve my black levels.

I have the Kilz2 painted on Drywall.

So should I just go with the LL version of the RS-MMMmaxx? Any modifications? My ceiling is white and probably the sole culprit of causing my blacks to appear more of a dark gray. My ceiling is also very close to the top of my screen.

Otherwise the room is pretty dark. The walls are a darker bluish-gray shade. I'd rather keep them as is. My room is also light controlled otherwise...

If I use the mix will painting or adding felt/dark material to part of the ceiling be as important?

Also, how will changing the screen compare to a cheap ND2 filter? Obviously, both serve somewhat different purposes, but for me, improving black levels is the number 1 goal.

Thanks.
post #313 of 540
fujiyama,

i believe both mixes will help to improve your black levels over your current kilz screen. with a 4805, whether you go with the standard mix or LL really depends on your own personal tastes. the regular version will give you the better black levels. the LL version has a look and feel that's very similiar to a white screen.
with improving black levels as your number 1 goal... i'd go with the regular version.

both versions will darken your bars on 2.35 movies slightly with the regular version being darker than the LL... making them less annoying... but certainly will not make them black as your velvet border.

my question with regard to the velvet frame was to 1Time. i deferred it to him because i believe he will have a better idea for you...of whether it would work or not. especially since you'd like to keep your room pretty much as is.

if it's any consolation... the top of my own screen is just 8 inches down from the ceiling which is also white.

the ND2 filter from my experience in working with others... is that everyone i've worked with (and there are a few in this thread alone)... has decided they like it much better without the filter because it crushed the color vividness. but that'll be up to you to decide.
post #314 of 540
Come with me and let's review what has been used at the Dodge Bijou: first was off white wall, and then the PPlastic, then upw, then Gliddens folkstone, Then a host of different paints including the Goo, which was up for the longest time, and then a Nd filter

I now have done a rs-maxxmudd LL on Durotherm and am very happy with it.
When I compared the image from the Goo to the Rs, The Goo looked kinda Dingy.

I have noticed also that I am not fiddling with the colors and such with the remote anymore.

To Fujiyama: Try this mix. It will be a definate improvement! You may want to paint the ceiling one shade lighter than the walls. There is no law anywhere that states ceilings must be white. Color is good!
post #315 of 540
Hey PB, how does this LL version compare to BF superlight? What are the differences between the two visually? Which do you recommend for a panny 700?
post #316 of 540
RodK,

the rs-ll version has more of a white screen look and feel to it. without anything being projected... the screen color is a very, very light grey... and if you didn't have a reference white to compare the color to... you'd never know it wasn't a white screen. the exception is when it's projected on to... the rs-ll has more vivid colors, better contrast, better black levels, and if your pj has decent lumens... better white levels as well.

the black flame superlite just enhances everything i stated above. if rs-ll can do it well, the superlite can do it better. visually it has less off a 'white front projection screen feel' to it. the screen begins to get lost, leaving you with a more cinematic experience.
post #317 of 540
how would you rate each, from 1 to 10 for my application. is there that much difference in the superlight to offset the added cost and time?

my panny is at 19' projecting a 106" screen but this will change once my new house is built.
post #318 of 540
RobK,

...not sure what your requirements are with respect to ambient light... but in controlled lighting the differences are fairly subtle. i'm a fan of better black levels (though i do pay quite a bit of attention to white levels and skin tones as well) so i tend to gravitate towards the superlite even in a more controlled setting. the rs-LL is too light for me and has more of a white screen feel to it (by that i mean the overall image has sorta a ghosted feel to it and lacks as much color vividness).

in terms of cost... the superlite when using a similiar substrate... costs approx $10 more than the rs-LL. ...so my personal rating would be.... bf-sl=9 , rs-mm=8, rs-LL=7.5

with a panni 700 at your size & distance. i would opt for a superlite (- 1 oz of colorant)
post #319 of 540
well, i have just finished a second coat on my boc screen. waiting for the second coat to dry is like.... watching paint dry. oh, wait.... i AM watching paint dry. lol. but, i would like to express a kind word toward mississippi man for the help he has given me over the phone, and pb for pm's. they really went out of the way to help a fellow diy-a-holic out. i am awaiting a return call from a plastic supply house here in cleveland for a price on vinyl. that will most likely be my final screen. but this one hopefully will do me good until that time comes. ( this way i have a spare until i finish the vinyl one. i have some interesting plans on the construction of the frame. i will see if i can duplicate my experience working in a picture frame shop for the frame. will keep you all posted.) until then....impatiently awaiting.....mot
post #320 of 540
ok, the screen looks good. i finally got to test it out today. had some minor calibrating to do d/t the darker image compared to the painted, and unpainted boc. - i will have to find avia this weekend. next step. lol - this IS a diy-a-holic group - see - we do everything in STEPS !!!. lol
anyhow, the only problem i see is that now i happen to see sde when b4 there was none. any ideas? please don't tell me i have to put on another coat. it is a real p.i.a. to mask off the border. next screen i am doing that part separate. oh well, live and learn. but, xbl ghost recon ss does look pretty sweet. even though the boc looked good also. hmmmm, maybe i have not been addicted long enuff. maybe the search will progress over time. will we ever be happy?......thanks, mot
post #321 of 540
How far away are you sitting? If I remember right you have a Z4 right? I sit about 14-16 feet away and don't notice it at all. In fact, after painting on a top coat of RSmaxxmud the SDE effect seemed to lessen. Are you noticing it mainly on whites or something else?
post #322 of 540
yup, a z4. i am sitting about 14' away. the same distance as before. i notice it mostly on my games. mainly on the night maps w/ the nite vision on. the brite green seems to enhance it. it seems to be getting a hair better, maybe the curing, maybe i am getting used to it. thing is, i never saw it b4. hmmmm. oh well, all-in-all, the scree looks better than the 2 previous ones. small steps. first, boc. second, bombadil grey, w/ poly, now the rsmm. oh - different cloths for each, so i did not layer. thanks...mot
post #323 of 540
If it bothers you enough you may want to try de focusing it a bit and see if that's more to your liking (sorry, got off topic a little bit).
post #324 of 540
ok thanks. back to the topic i guess, even though this kinda does pertain to it.
post #325 of 540
Quote:
Originally Posted by motmayhem View Post

ok thanks. back to the topic i guess, even though this kinda does pertain to it.


Yuck. Defocusing is like "KYS" (...kissing your Sister...) A wholly unsatisfying and socially unacceptable way to getcher "Ya ya's " out.

Your SDE will decrease as time goes on with the Screen's cure. Your not using a Mirror's "Gap' or a thick translucent surface, you have only a thin vinyl surface with a thin coat of paint. And because it has Silver in it, it's gonna be leaning toward showing you detail that has escaped you in the past. You might want to try an additional Top Coat of Matte Poly-heavy RS-MaxxMudd. Every layer will work to decrease SDE, and since we give not one hoot about the underlying surface, building up a thicker coating....very slowly and precisely mind you...will hep reduce the tendency of the RS-MaxxMudd to highlight the SDE grid in lighter subject areas.
post #326 of 540
yeah, as i stated a couple replies earlier, it does seem to be disappearing, which i thought might d/t the curing. if i did decide to topcoat - yuck. more pia masking. lol. - what is the ratio?

also - thanks again for all the mono-et-mono on the phone. i really appreciated it. all the info was a help. hope all went well, and is going well. take care maurice, and thanks again.....mot
post #327 of 540
Thanks! And your most welcome. I'm always busy it seems, but never so much so that I cannot stop to help an AVS'er at the expense of someone else waiting for my time.

Just ask my Wife.

Off to Europe and the UK this AM on "business". I'm gonna knock some heads silly in London, Amsterdam, and Stockholm. Or get knocked. Either way, I'll be having fun.
post #328 of 540
enjoy amsterdam for me.
post #329 of 540
Excuse my ignorance, but I am a bit confused.

For the latest mix, there isnt a base coat correct? All paints are mixed into one big can right? The line between the top and the 2 bottom ingredients are confusing me.
post #330 of 540
yeah, one mix. the 2 mixes are dependant upon your pj, or light i believe. there are others that can clarify this, but you mix it all in one can. either the top or the bottom.
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