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RS-MMMaxx questions - Page 13

post #361 of 540
thx. So it mainly aids in getting a good application?
post #362 of 540
To PB Maxxx

I searched for some previous posts, but I guess older than a few months are deleted? My old posts involved a screen for a 4805. I'm just now getting around to doing a screen. I think you had sugested a blend between maxxx LL and the regular version. I can't remember though. It seems like the regular version may be the prefered one for 4805's now?

How does BF super lite compare with regular rsmaxx? Is one of them easier to roll, or get better results from rolling? I'm going to try making some tomorrow.

-controlled lighting, but with white ceiling and carpet, some walls whitish. Bravo D1 pixel mapped tuned to Bob Williams specs. ND2, on bright white HD board (it's actualy a little light grey compared to typing paper)- I don't think it should make to much of a differencs.
Probably going to ditch the ND with the new screen. Hopefully I can still get a couple thousand hour of brightness without a gain screen.

Main goals :

-Good blacks, but skin tones just as important. It seems like skin tones look a little sickly sometimes, so not to grey or dark. brighter healthy skin tones basically.
-good colors, and 3D- the window effect.
-help in reduction of screen door without reducing sharpness.

I would try RS LL, but you say it may look a little washed out. Don't want to be too dark though.

Open to suggestion.


I'll post some pics too when I'm done
post #363 of 540
What are the ambient light rejection qualities of the hybrid mix that you have recommended for gprro1? I too have the 4805. I have a reasonable amount of light control though I do not want to spend the entire football (American thank you!) season in the dark. My ceiling mount is in the mail and I can't (but will) wait to paint.

And just for good measure, is this the "regular rs-mm mix" of which you speak?


Keeping track of formulas is very difficult.

One last question. Why the basecoat mix instead of simply Kilz? Or do you recommend Kilz? Like I said, it's hard keeping track of these formulas.
post #364 of 540

for the 4805... and if football american style is what you seek with a of couple friends and some brews without playing kissing buddies in the dark... then i'd recommend the same mix for you as gprro1.

you can find the undated mix on the front page of thread...


therefore just subtract 2 oz of the silver metallic and add 2oz of the upw...

with respect to kilz... you are certainly welcome to use it. i use upw as a generic term because others may use a different brand than behr's upw.
post #365 of 540
Thanks, off to HD. I'll take some screen shots after it cures a little.
post #366 of 540
One more quick Q before starting. Go with 4 oz of the pale gold or drop to 3 or 2 oz maybe with the highbrid? I feel like desert and sunset lit scenes look too yellowish orange sometimes. But, I also find myself pushing my red controls up a little to compensate on some skin tones.


my home depot only had 1/4 in. rollers....?
post #367 of 540

the 1/4" roller should work just fine. just work the paint quickly while it wet and not when it's tacky. a single coat should take you less than 10 minutes to do.

also, you welcome to use just 3 oz of pale gold... but it SO pale that i don't think it's something you'll visually notice.
post #368 of 540

One last question and I think that I will be ready.

When wet sanding between coats, what is your recommended method? Do you recommend small circles, vertical strokes as the paint was rolled, horizontal across the grain or angled?

Thanks muchly
post #369 of 540

the only sanding that should be required is a smooth basecoat before starting in on the rs-maxxmudd topcoat.

and also for a smoother finish... right before the final coat of topcoat.

i'd recommend light pressure using medium sweeping strokes in a diagonal fashion from one top corner to the opposite bottom corner. you just want to take off the rogue peaks of the previous coats so that the new coat will have a better chance of filling in the valleys... hence the end result is smoother finish.
post #370 of 540
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post


the only sanding that should be required is a smooth basecoat before starting in on the rs-maxxmudd topcoat.

and also for a smoother finish... right before the final coat of topcoat.

i'd recommend light pressure using medium sweeping strokes in a diagonal fashion from one top corner to the opposite bottom corner. you just want to take off the rogue peaks of the previous coats so that the new coat will have a better chance of filling in the valleys... hence the end result is smoother finish.

Thank you pb_maxxx. I've had my 4805 for one week now. My ceiling mount arrives today. PJ hanging and tape to applied to wall tonight. Off to HD and Michaels to spend more money and this weekend I paint. You can imagine my excitement!
post #371 of 540
first 2 coats done, I may need a new roller, this one is leaving tons of texture and bubbles. I'm going to do a light sand then another coat, sand, final coat. We'll see.
post #372 of 540
as a quick tip for minimizing bubbles...

most of you will likely be using a new roller... ... and new rollers tend to be full of air bubbles. it takes some time before the roller is saturated with paint and the bubbles are forced out from the pressure of the rolling.

i you must then rinse your new roller in warm water before starting your screen project.

however, if you have the time, it's a good idea to roll several passes on a spare board and then saturate your roller with paint and leave it in a plastic bag overnight. then roll off the excess paint before starting in on your screen.
post #373 of 540
cool, good to know. I'm going to do this coat in a while after lightly sanding the second coat.
so it will be like a 2.5 coat. Let the roller sit in a bag overnight, finish tomorrow. I'm going to load it up and roll a spare board a little too. Thanks again.
post #374 of 540

I'm sure you never tire of us newbies bugging you incessantly. Yeah right!

Your topcoat mixture measures a little over 1/2 gallon (70 oz.) when done. This is sufficient for 3 coats on a 113" diagonal screen? And you call for a 1:1:1 mix for the base. The base is 2 coats is it not? Therefore we should shoot for roughly 1/2 gallon of the basecoat mix. Correct?

Project was postponed by an unscheduled visit to the monster-in-law last night (and Nightmares & Dreamscapes on TNT - slightly disappointing BTW). Tonight I start for sure.
post #375 of 540

whether you are spraying or rollin'... 70oz. is plenty for 3 coats on a 113" diagonal.

for your basecoat it's easiest to mix 1 quart of upw, with 1/2 quart of minwax satin (the other half you'll use for the topcoat), and 1/2 quart of water... that'll give you 2 quarts for basecoat mix which is plenty for 2 coats on your 113" diagonal.
post #376 of 540

The more I read, the more questions there are. Sorry.

I read references to the basecoat being UPW gloss. The second post of this thread doesn't mention this. Is the UPW for the base gloss and the UPW for the topcoat flat? And what of the Minwax? Gloss or satin?
post #377 of 540
within basecoat mix... the upw is gloss.

within the topcoat mix... the upw is flat.

purchase 1 quart of minwax polycrylic satin.
1/2 of it will be used in the basecoat mix & the other 1/2 will be used in the topcoat mix.
post #378 of 540
well, for me at least, rolling sucks! I can't get a smooth surface. Whats the best cheap spayer?

I watched some movie clips last night after the third coat dried a few hours. very bright without ND2. Colors and skin tones look great. Still have screen door, and small detail I think is being affected be the pebble texture. something like a silk screen would be awsome for screens. Set the hight at 1-2 mm, pour some paint, pull the slide and get a pefectly smooth paint coat. I'd try, but my screen isn't perfectly flat, almost.
post #379 of 540
Initial thoughts on hybrid rsmaxxx, maybe call it the Mid Lumen version?

i'm using a 4805 and the standard mix, but - 2oz of the siver, and + 2 oz of upw. It's really bright. the 4805 could probably use the standard version pretty easily. The screen is still curing and has some texture I'd like to get rid of, there is also a little hot sheen to it. I'll wait a couple more days to see if the sheen disapears. In all, looks very good. better than the graywolf I had. Not as much gain. I'm actualy shooting around 75+ inch diagonal on a 98 inch bright white board with the ND2 and its awsome. I need to sand again and try spraying to get perfectly smooth surface.

Thanks to PB for helping and sharing the formula.

Oh yeah, I'm shooting 75 inch because my seating is too close to go bigge with the 4805. It allows me to still use the ND2 also, Exelent blacks.. I have blown it up to 92 inch and watched from my kitchen. without the ND it's really bright and punchy.
post #380 of 540

thanks for sharing your a fair/unbiased assessment.

and as you know by now, gain and visual quality are two different animals.

as the lumens of todays projectors continues to increase... i've been considering backing down 2 oz of polycrylic on each of the rs-mmmaxx formulas.

you'll appreciate the brightness once you get a bigger area, can increase your screen to full size, and can move you seating back.
post #381 of 540

i am having a hard time finding the Delta pearl finish. Micheals is always sold out and wal-mart and joa-anns do not carry that color. Can you recomend a substitute?

Thanks for all the great work.
post #382 of 540
you can substitute it with folk art's white pearl.

if you can not find folk art's white pearl at the places you mentioned... then shoot me a pm and i'll recommend something else offline... just to keep the ingredient list on this thread nice and simple.
post #383 of 540
Whats up,

how many coats is too many coats? I have 5 i think, with a couple decent sandings. I had a sprayer screw up yesterday, and need to do a couple more coats. Will it affect performance? Too many layers = ghosting of the image? I had to sand alot after though, so I probably stipped at least 1 coat I hope.

Also, after 4-5 days, before the spraying screw up, I still have some mild hotspotting. I was reading about mixing equal parts mixture with new mix minus the poly. Should I go ahead and try?

post #384 of 540
Thread Starter 
Hello all,

Wow, I haven't been around in 6 months and my old thread is going strong...

I'm still using the stuff in the beginning of this thread somewhere, and still quite happy...
post #385 of 540

don't worry... unless you are using an acrylic mirror or a pure silver metallic basecoat to deepen your black levels... 2 more coats will have very little effect on your overall image.

also, eliminate/use about 2-4oz less polycrylic in your mix to eliminate the minor hotspotting.

i'm going to make a couple of small changes to the mix and basecoat suggestions today.



yep, look what you started!? glad to have you back.
post #386 of 540
I posted a couple screen shots in my gallery, a little blurry due to night mode. The only way I could get a decent pic. It's also slightly brighter than in person, and maybe a tad more vivid. still looks pretty good in person. Rolling for me is a nightmare, I may try to pay a auto body shop to spray it real quick. I see some distortion of detail in small details while panning images.
post #387 of 540
Many have gone that route with success. Just caution them that it's better to dust than to ladle the paint on because it's almost as thin as a Clear Coat when properly mixed.
post #388 of 540

i'm going to make a couple of small changes to the mix and basecoat suggestions today.


Have you made your changes and could you please discuss them?
post #389 of 540
Go to the first page. The dated posting is waiting.
post #390 of 540
Thanks MM. I have checked the first page and if I'm not mistaken the recipe states that it was "Last Update(d) - July 18th, 2006". Pb_maxxx's post above was dated 7/24. I'm also interested in the reason for the changes as well as the expected benefit.
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