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Just what's inside a 'G' series JVC D-ILA? - Page 5

post #121 of 144
Thread Starter 
Sorry, I have no idea what that would mean. If I remember correctly this does not have a CC slot, correct?
The symtom sounds as it might be a bad ballast.
post #122 of 144
ok this is what i got on my lamp hours in my service menu top line is this T000 000 now the bottom line is 028 05 00011100 so what is my lamp hours now my math is saying i got close to 3,709.60 so someone please do the math and tell me please
post #123 of 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenchadg View Post

ok this is what i got on my lamp hours in my service menu top line is this T000 000 now the bottom line is 028 05 00011100 so what is my lamp hours now my math is saying i got close to 3,709.60 so someone please do the math and tell me please

Not sure what Model Number you have, but look at the front of this thread and the instructions indicate the registers are "D070 and D071" not "T". The registry shows the same count in three different forms. First group is decimal, the second group is hexidecimal and the last group is decimal number notation. Look for lamp time2.jpg for explanation.
post #124 of 144
When checking hours...

Ok - so I too came up with T#'s... such as:

Line 1:
T001 +00
255FF 1111 1111

Line 2:
T002 011
255FF 1111 1111

I assume I pulled the wrong data!?
Thoughts?
post #125 of 144
How do I "Remove speaker grill" on JVC HD52G786 RPTV?
post #126 of 144
Thread Starter 
That should be covered in the SM. You do have the service manual don't you?
post #127 of 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

That should be covered in the SM. You do have the service manual don't you?

I'm sorry to say I do not. I have looked at the various exploded diagrams on this thread
but nothing shows how the center of the speaker grill is attached. I removed the "A" screws which seems to free the ends but the center is still solidly attached. Don't want to break it but simply want to clean soot off the mirror caused by a furnace heat exchanger failure.
post #128 of 144
Thread Starter 
If dirt/dust got in there, I must of coated a lot more than just the mirror.
Bezels are usually 'snapped in', but there is no guarantee of this.

Invest in the manual!
post #129 of 144
Snapped off speaker grill, by sliding down. Removed remaining bezel screws and cleaned the mirror, projection lens and the fresnel (smooth side). Removed lots of soot. Kept cleaning until cloth came off clean. Wow! She looks so good I think I'll keep her for a while longer. It has always had a fabulous picture. Great blacks and realistic color (with High def sources). The HDMI input only works for an evening and night after a reset. The TV is backed to a north facing window and a sunny day kills the HDMI input, by 9:00 AM. There may in fact be a photo sensor that kills it. Will investigate further and report success, if I achieve it.
post #130 of 144
Thread Starter 
Quote:


a sunny day kills the HDMI input, by 9:00 AM.

Light might affect optical, but not HDMI unless it is a thermal issue.
post #131 of 144
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Light might affect optical, but not HDMI unless it is a thermal issue.

I have read a post on the newer 1080P model where a gentleman from Alberta Canada gave a detailed explanation for "blocking the light sensor" that kills the HDMI input. I agree with him that putting a "doomsday device" like that into the design was ridiculous. It further aggravates me that I have lived with this problem for YEARS without help from the factory service personnel or JVC corporate whom I pleaded with for help during the warrantee period. It died three days after the then new TV went into service. It took seven months to get serviced. They came out and swapped the Digital module (two trips) which fixed it for a few months. Some dust may have settled into a ventilation port which reflects enough light to cause the current problem. Obviously, the replaced digital module still works, when it isn't being shut down erroneously.
I have installed a dark curtain between the back of the TV and the window behind it, and voila, The HDMI input continues to function during a sunny day without experiencing the vampire effect.
post #132 of 144
Thread Starter 
This light sensor does exactly what as is located where?
post #133 of 144
Go back to posts #26 and #27, where it is mentioned. In the thread "what's inside a JVC 1080D-ILA?" I found the in-depth post regarding the location of the offending photo-diode and a procedure for blocking its function, in one of these newer models. The author mentioned that the TV would be OK, as designed, in a dark basement. He was having problem with ambient light leakage shutting down his HDMI port(s) too.
post #134 of 144
Thread Starter 
Oh, you mean the one I commented on seven years ago??
I remember that now. (I never owned the set).

I guess I should of read my own thread. Reminds me of all the one time posters that never looked through my repair 'sticky' at the top of the page and never come back to see if anyone replied to their post.
post #135 of 144
Yeah, that one. Many thanks to you, and all of the enthusiasts that take the time to post their experiences from the "field". There is a HUGE fountain of information here. I wonder how many of these sets wound up in a land-fill somewhere because of these little idiosyncrasies. It helped sell new TVs, but some folks would remain angry at the manufacturer (JVC) for abandoning the customer after the sale. I know I am!
Not a good business practice, to be sure. As I have stated, my TV has been suffering from problems since the third day of operation, starting in December of 2005. Nothing in the instruction manual. The manufacturer's robotic telephone help line routed me to a hang up on most occasions, unless I wanted to buy a lamp assembly.
post #136 of 144
Thread Starter 
It's too bad LCoS failed (which includes Sony's version), it was a far better setup than DLP with those damn color wheels.
post #137 of 144
I am curious that you would say LCOS failed. LCOS technology is used in the light engine found in many of the top rated FRONT projectors on the market, from Sony and JVC. Rear projectors are indeed out of fashion. They are bulky and full of air which is still expensive to ship. BTW, the bulky RPTV cabinet allowed for decent quality sound which was very well implemented in the JVC G series. Now, few people seem to care much about the sound. I rarely switch to my external surround sound system, except for movies with big audio F/X. Now, my wife and I will descend to the dedicated home theater with its 120 inch screen and high end 5.1 sound system to match, for that experience. Word to the wise: Big is beautiful. Really big is more beautiful.
post #138 of 144
Thread Starter 
Quote:


I am curious that you would say LCOS failed. LCOS technology is used in the light engine found in many of the top rated FRONT projectors on the market, from Sony and JVC.

It failed for both Sony & JVC in RPTV which is what we were talking about. Both Sony & JVC had enormous problems, fut for different reasons.
I don't know about FP since I have no interest in that (or room).
post #139 of 144
Oh I think JVC was FAR more successful with LCoS than Sony. What enormous problems did JVC have?

Heck, my biggest regret was not catching it when the 70" model was discontinued- I'd have bought one.
post #140 of 144
Thread Starter 
Hello stranger.

Surely can't argue there since Sony lost their shirt on their "green glob" problem, but JVC lost out also with their CA problem.
post #141 of 144
CA problem? I don't recall. Across all models?
post #142 of 144
Thread Starter 
Chromatic aberration was terrible with the earlier models. It gradually got better. I couldn't believe what some of them looked like in stores. One would think it was a CRT RPTV with typical lousy convergence.
post #143 of 144
HDMI input no longer displays green screen / no sound during the day (vampire effect), requiring a service menu reset to work in the evening / night. Opened back of my unit and found the photo-transistor. It is located on a PC board behind the upper right corner (facing the back) of the input jack panel. It is supported by a black plastic wedge and faces the right end of the main chassis. Simply covered it with black electrical tape and tested by shining a powerful flashlight directly at it. HDMI input continued to work. Hooray. Thanks to all that posted tips to this great site. Thanks for NOTHING, JVC. Seven years to fix.
post #144 of 144
Thread Starter 
If that was the only problem, you still won.

(When was the solution posted here?? )
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