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RX-D702B Unofficial Owners Thread - Page 28

post #811 of 821
oh bummer...hope to see this still going...I have an RX 301 that still serves me well for the basic non hdmi AVR. It is not heavily used so it hasn't burned out or anything. But am curious to see if there any 702 left out there.
post #812 of 821
I have KEF iQ3's hooked up to this receiver, and recently I blew (and replaced) one of the woofers.

Is there any way to set crossovers to block out low frequencies from going to the iQ3's?
post #813 of 821
Hey Natchie... I just picked up a D702B from a seller on Ebay. Folks are funny though, because I see the units go for a variety of prices.

They seem to be moving at about $200-250, but the problem is that they aren't imperfect, and they've often been handed from one user to another in trade, and then put up for auction. You're likely to be getting a unit from a secondary or tertiary seller. My own unit was from (at least) a second owner. However, the seller was a JVC enthusiast and he vouched for features to be working. My unit was missing the front input door, but I may actually have found the parts to it.

If you get one be sure to read some of the tips for keeping it cooler. So far, so good for mine. I plan to be using it to play back decoded DTS HD master via LPCM from an HTPC. I'll be dead in the water if I want to go to 3D, but I don't really care about that just yet; I've a component system that's all JVC (save the television). The compulink system has been awesome, up until now.

My RX-8000VBKJ had text compu-link and syncro compu-link jacks. I use a TD-W354 cassette deck and although it indicates it has syncro-III, I previously connected it to the RX-8000VBKJ's text compu-link jacks for interface. While the RX-8000VBKJ remote could make a tape start/stop/record/rewind, it did not have a dedicated remote power button. The RX-D702B won't talk to the cassette deck at all so I'm trying to track down an aftermarket remote.
post #814 of 821
One user long-ago complained they had a problem with hightened sharpness. For anyone still interested, I have the opposite problem depending on settings. I don't yet have all 7 channels hooked up, and the naturalization (7.1) feature may play a role in shifting dedicated sounds depending on Dolby/DTS/ETC. As the equalization levels all relate to Hz frequencies outside the standard speaking voice range (center channel) it seems to me it wouldn't do much to try and adjust sharp tonality there, you're pretty much stuck with center tone, center level, and the various DSP modes, particularly the DLIIx modes (MOVIE/MUSIC) in the setting menu. Also, be sure to have the right CC CONVERTER mode set to "2" when receiving a digitally-compressed signal (Dolby Digital or DTS) although CC CONVERTER (when set to "1") is more a useful tool for noise reduction when listening to analog signals.
post #815 of 821
Quote:
Originally Posted by Runner1 View Post

Actually, fan pushes the air out thru a heat sink tunnel, this helps to cool down those "over heated" electronic components only when temperature is high. The fan does not blow air to other components if there are not inside this tunnel; definitely it needs another fan and there is a space for it.
I think I know one reason why some RX-D702B have heat issue problems and others don't. After removing the cover I noticed that there is a see-thru thin plastic shield glue internally to the cover, this shield covers the ventilation holes from the right side, next to the power button. I don't know exactly why JVC tekies decided to do this other than to protect anyone sticking a wire thru the holes and getting electrocuted by the capacitors (there are some next to this ventilation).
I went to the Local electronic store, the display D702B models (I believe older 702Bs) don't have this shield. So I decided to remove this plastic shield since is just internally glued to the cover; the temperature went about 6 degrees cooler, that's an improvement.

P.S. Anyone thinking of playing with internal components, capacitors hold lots of volts, even if recently unplug; They CAN BE FATAL!, use insulated gloves if not an expert.

I took runner1's advice and removed my plastic shield. I just received an older, but fully-functional unit. For those who still have this unit, perhaps someone might voice a theory for the plastic shield. Did any capacitors blow up in the past, warranting this protection? Of course... it seems paradoxical to avoid an overheating blast by... adding an element that increases heat. Was this an element added to increase the chance of equipment failure... and a subsequent need for repair? Was this an element to prevent dust bust up, and shorting/overheating?

I've now removed my own shield, and plan to service my unit every 3-6 months with compressed air, but if anyone has any plausible theories I'd love to hear them. Just using the unit this afternoon, I don't necessarily notice that much heat coming directly from the capacitor area, so I view the front-left vents as an extra venting options for the other heat-generating elements.
post #816 of 821
On a quick note: it's plausible that JVC originally designed the unit for it's svelt size, and then were cited for the safety issue. I've a new little girl, and I'll need to make sure the unit (currently close to the ground) is inaccessible.
post #817 of 821
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfermming View Post

I took runner1's advice and removed my plastic shield. I just received an older, but fully-functional unit. For those who still have this unit, perhaps someone might voice a theory for the plastic shield. Did any capacitors blow up in the past, warranting this protection? Of course... it seems paradoxical to avoid an overheating blast by... adding an element that increases heat. Was this an element added to increase change of equipment failure... and need for repair? Was this an element to prevent dust bust up, and shorting/overheating?

I've now removed my own, and plan to service my unit every 3-6 months with compressed air, but if anyone has any plausible theories I'd love to hear them.

One more quick note for removing the cover: in addition to the four copper phillips-head screws you'll need to remove in the back (PH#1), and four black metal phillips-head screws securing the sides (PH#1), one needs a tamper-proof torx-drive bit (T-10H) to remove a single back-securing screw. A tamperproof torx bit has a hole in the center; the screw is designed to make it too inconvenient to remove when your standard set of tools doesn't include a tamper-proof torx bit; this kind of tom foolery drives me nuts.
post #818 of 821
Just when I was finally able to join the party. I just picked up a 702B on e bay for $100, but its missing the remote. Does anyone have a spare remote ? I took a calculated gamble & found a remote for the 301 and its almost identical to the one for the 702, I figured Id give it a shot & prey that it would work.
post #819 of 821
I bought a RX-D301 a long time ago, and one of the flaws is that the USB wireless transmitter knocks out the wifi in laptops. JVC recommends replacing it with the USB wireless stick from the 702. Except they no longer sell it, and I can't find one anywhere. Is anybody interested in selling theirs?
post #820 of 821
Hello,

I found this thread googling and was pleasantly surprised there is a whole 702B thread/community here. I was going to retire my 702B but maybe there is hope if anyone of the experts here can give me some ideas on how to solve my new problem.

I am happy with the 702B for the past few years but I have a new requirement to drive another pair of speakers in an adjacent room, what is the easiest (and most economical) way to do this. I was hoping the 702B have a audio out so I can connect it to another simple amplifier but it doesn't seem to have that feature, all I can think of is to use the digtial out but I am not sure if it will work...I do prefer to drive all of my speakers simultaneously (7.1 plus another pair)

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

If I couldn't make this work, I think I am going to have to spring for a new receiver...presently looking at a Denon AVR-1913
post #821 of 821
I've enjoyed my 702 for nearly six years now with no issues, however, I recently moved and I think something got jarred loose in the receiver.

I have a 40 ft. high-speed HDMI cable connect the receiver from the HDMI Monitor Out port to a projector television. For six years it worked well with two projectors, but something must have happened between my old place and my new place. It no longer outputs through the HDMI Monitor Out. I tried shorter cables and then the long cable and short cable with a JVC television and no luck. I switched the video output to component and that works. I don't think a setting got changed, so I'm wondering if a wire may have disconnected on the inside.

Anyone have any other ideas of what may have happened? Thanks!
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