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MASTER BURN-IN/BREAK-IN THREAD: ALL POSTS HERE ONLY! - Page 97  

post #2881 of 2990
Yes, all these are covered in the "few things" you missed.

You can use the dvd whenever you want, you are not too late.

You can run it when you are not watching tv and keep your set on for 100+ hrs straight if you'd like. No need to turn the contrast down - turn it to where you would normally watch tv.
post #2882 of 2990
Thanks, I guess it's easy to miss a "few things" in nearly 3000 posts
post #2883 of 2990
for the actual break-in? Would it not be better to set all colors to the same level so once you have broken-in the plasma your colors will still be the same relative difference to each other and the settings will still apply?

If say you turn up the reds and turn down green and then break it in, the green will age less and red will age more and hence the settings will be off again?

So, break-in via the downloaded break-in DVD on AVSForum with all settings set to 50 and the colors reset or break-in the plasma with the ideal settings already in place?
post #2884 of 2990
Yeah, setting all to 50 would be ok. It's better to calibrate it properly with DVE or AVI etc. to the level you will have it at when the break in is over.

But using 50 is fine as most of the settings will end up reasonably close to the 50% settings on most sets anyway (i.e. rare to end up at more than +/- 10 from the midway points in my experience).
post #2885 of 2990
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmaul1114 View Post

It's better to calibrate it properly with DVE or AVI etc. to the level you will have it at when the break in is over.

but why?
If say you turn up the reds and turn down green and then break it in, the green will age less and red will age more and hence the settings will be off again because now the green will be even stronger.
post #2886 of 2990
Ok, go with that theory. But after break it in you intend to adjust or calibrate, then continue to watch forever with the reds up and the greens down....what's the difference?

The settings won't be off much and the subpixels will always be aging - and I guarantee that each subpixel will not be aging at the same rate as all other subpixels.

However, I would just wait 'till after break in. I also would not say it is "better" to calibrate first - there isn't any research that determines that would be "better".

Remember, the reason for break in is to speed the aging process of the pixels to help resist IR. If one color (subpixel) takes longer to age, it shouldn't be an issue of any significance.
post #2887 of 2990
Quote:
Originally Posted by HT-Naimee View Post

but why?
If say you turn up the reds and turn down green and then break it in, the green will age less and red will age more and hence the settings will be off again because now the green will be even stronger.

Well then leave the color alone, and just calibrate the contrast and brightness to the proper levels.
post #2888 of 2990
After the break-in period, do you have to recalibrate or will the settings remain the same as before the break-in?

I know the recommended settings for the set I am about to purchase. I just want to make sure that breaking it in is done properly and I will be able to use the calibrated settings needed for this TV.
Should breaking it in the "wrong way" result in a new calibration being needed then I am in trouble.
post #2889 of 2990
The settings will remain the same, but that doesn't mean the image will look the same. As I said, if you plan to calibrate with a disk I'd do it after break in. Use the recommended settings during break in - or you can calibrate it with a disk, but you may want to re-check it after the break in period.

There is no wrong way here - try not to stress it. Want to know the truth - you don't even need to break it in - it's only a precaution and most who do break in do so to have peace of mind.
post #2890 of 2990
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kr8z1 View Post

The settings will remain the same, but that doesn't mean the image will look the same. As I said, if you plan to calibrate with a disk I'd do it after break in. Use the recommended settings during break in - or you can calibrate it with a disk, but you may want to re-check it after the break in period.

With recommended settings you mean the calibrated ones. So use the recommended/Calibrated settings from e.g. CNET to meet D65 etc. and use these same settings during and after break-in. Hence, set it once and leave it at the correct settings. Maybe check after a few hundred hours with the naked eye whether one setting or another is way off. Correct?
post #2891 of 2990
Yep, that'll be just fine.
post #2892 of 2990
Hello.

I am from Europe and I need your help for the Break-In DVD. I just burned it on a DVD. The DVD has runtime of approx. 44Min. Now I read in that forum that the DVD will run hours! Have I made a mistake? How do I burn it, that the runtime will be 24 hours?

I have a Samsung PS50Q91, this have to be in USA the HP-5064!

I have a problem with green shadows! That green shadows are from gray to black. For example in the movie Men in Black 2 Timecode approx.21Min in the Diner who Will Smith is sitting there with a woman. In the womens face zou will see verz good that green shadows of the right side of the face.

Is that normal?
post #2893 of 2990
Is that normal?
post #2894 of 2990
I will give aou an Link for an Picture...
post #2895 of 2990
I need 5 post to give here in that forum a link
post #2896 of 2990
the last nonsense post
post #2897 of 2990
please look at that link to show my problem

http://img145.imageshack.us/my.php?i...img2004mh0.jpg
post #2898 of 2990
Quote:
Originally Posted by renlopez View Post

Be careful running the break-in DVD unattended. If your DVD player gets stuck on an all red screen for several hours, it would not be a good thing.


that's not the worst though..

just make a turquoise (255 blue, and 255 green) slide for your tele.

Then just guesstimate how long the red was on for... you can do with with any colour.



i'd consider whomever that happened to lucky...at least it wasn't a menu screen or something...
post #2899 of 2990
Quote:
Originally Posted by piti123 View Post

please look at that link to show my problem

http://img145.imageshack.us/my.php?i...img2004mh0.jpg

check your contrast and brightness...its weird. Its almost as if your blacks are too black. Is this the only dvd it does it on? Does it do this with any other material?

I really hate (this might be your case) how some dvd's (or any medium) is mastered out of spec...just horrible

What kind of dvd player are you feeding...does it do this on all sources?

-jl
post #2900 of 2990
@ jlcool,

thank you for answering.

It is at every DVD film, my dvd player is a Samsung HD-870 na my Picture settings are:

Kontrast: 69
Brightness: 48-52
Colour: cold1

optimal contrast: low
black level: off
post #2901 of 2990
According to Panny and Sammy breaking in plasma's is no longer necessary. Thoughts on this?
post #2902 of 2990
Hello again.

One more question.

What are the differences about the "burn In" with DVDs, TV, etc. and the "Break In DVD"???

Why it is better to "burn In" the plasma with the "Break In DVD"?

And what are the best piscture settings for the "Break In DVD"?
Kontrast: 45, Brightness: 45... under 50%? Or should I take my favourite pisture settings contrast 69; Brightness52 for the "Break In DVD"
post #2903 of 2990
I'm in the market for a new set (seriously considering a 50" Panasonic plasma; haven't decided between 720p or 1080p, but that's for another thread).

A lot of the discussion on this thread has been the phenomenon of burn in related to watching SD programming in a 4:3 mode on a 16:9 display (resulting in side bars). The "smart" stretch modes on most sets don't bother me, so I don't think that will be an issue. I would, however, get worked about having to watch 2.35:1 DVDs in something other than the intended aspect ratio. I assume that watching 2:35 programming on a 16:9 display could have the same burn in issue as with the 4:3 programming (just that the bars are at the top and bottom instead of the sides)?

Even if I watched one 2.35:1 DVD every day (which is unlikely...probably one or two per week), would it even be an issue on a properly calibrated and broken-in plasma?

Thanks.
post #2904 of 2990
Quote:
Originally Posted by cvinyard View Post

I'm in the market for a new set (seriously considering a 50" Panasonic plasma; haven't decided between 720p or 1080p, but that's for another thread).

A lot of the discussion on this thread has been the phenomenon of burn in related to watching SD programming in a 4:3 mode on a 16:9 display (resulting in side bars). The "smart" stretch modes on most sets don't bother me, so I don't think that will be an issue. I would, however, get worked about having to watch 2.35:1 DVDs in something other than the intended aspect ratio. I assume that watching 2:35 programming on a 16:9 display could have the same burn in issue as with the 4:3 programming (just that the bars are at the top and bottom instead of the sides)?

Even if I watched one 2.35:1 DVD every day (which is unlikely...probably one or two per week), would it even be an issue on a properly calibrated and broken-in plasma?

Thanks.

With the viewing habits you have, You won't have any problem. Maybe a little IR until the panel has been fully broke in.
post #2905 of 2990
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6SpeedTA95 View Post

According to Panny and Sammy breaking in plasma's is no longer necessary. Thoughts on this?

old habits die hard.
post #2906 of 2990
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtydan View Post

With the viewing habits you have, You won't have any problem. Maybe a little IR until the panel has been fully broke in.

I was about to ask the same thing. How much would I have to watch either 4:3 programming or 2.35:1 DVDs for it to burn in. I definitely want to watch DVDs in their OAR and I would prefer not to stretch 4:3 stuff but I guess I could get used to it if I have to.
post #2907 of 2990
Quote:
Originally Posted by jskrap View Post

I was about to ask the same thing. How much would I have to watch either 4:3 programming or 2.35:1 DVDs for it to burn in. I definitely want to watch DVDs in their OAR and I would prefer not to stretch 4:3 stuff but I guess I could get used to it if I have to.

All you need to do is vary what you watch so your screen does not have black bars all the time. I don't know how long it would take to get burn in, but what is happening when bars are on the screen is the black area has no pixels activated, so that area has like new pixels, the area in the middle gets use and the pixels age, so when you fill the screen with picture you will see a more vivid picture in ares where black bars were.
post #2908 of 2990
Quote:
Originally Posted by jskrap View Post

I was about to ask the same thing. How much would I have to watch either 4:3 programming or 2.35:1 DVDs for it to burn in. I definitely want to watch DVDs in their OAR and I would prefer not to stretch 4:3 stuff but I guess I could get used to it if I have to.

Does your TV have the option of using gray bars instead of black ones? If it does, using that should help fend off the burn-in. I'm not sure if the gray bars will display on the top and bottom for 2.35:1 DVDs, but it should definitely display on the left and right for 4:3 content.
post #2909 of 2990
about to start breaking in my new samsung FPT5084

simple question needs a very simple answer:

should I use a low, high, or normal contrast when burning in?

The first page of this thread says use a half contrast/brightness setting, but it was made years ago, and in newer threads I've seen people suggest using a slightly higher than normal (normal for viewing) setting for break in.

What's the scoop on NEW plasmas? High, low, mid, whatever?

Any other settings I should use/know about, this is my first plasma.
post #2910 of 2990
FYI...I just tried the Break-in DVD on my new Samsung BD-P1200 BlueRay player and it would not move from chapter to chapter. Once the blueray player reached the 59th second of any minute it would stop. I had to re-plugin my $70 DVD player to get it to play correctly.
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