or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread. - Page 41

post #1201 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by mboy View Post

So should I leave my Hi def cable box in 1080i or send a 720p signal to my 4805 when watching HD?

That is different since the source is interlaced if 1080i - it is best to leave it native - if the source was 1080i let the projector scale it to 480p. If it was 720p ditto. But sometimes you do not have the choice. I prefer 720P because vertical resolution scales better - you may like 1080i because it has more horizontal color resolution.

But stick to 480i for SD channels - the SP4805 is much better than your cable box at deinterlacing - and you do not want to upconvert with a bad scaler only to downconvert. This does mean you need the latest firmware to autosync as you channel surf.
post #1202 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian I Am View Post

Some words on the refresh rate issue from Bob Williams, ( I think we can agree the definitive authority on the subject)

Thanks for that info.

I'm having a little trouble understanding what an "x" and the "total color refresh rate" means though.

At 72Hz, 3x is 6480rpm so 1x = 2160rpm.
At 60Hz, 4x is 7200rpm so 1x = 3600rpm.

???
post #1203 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by X View Post

I'm having a little trouble understanding what an "x" and the "total color refresh rate" means though.

1x = 30 per frame.
At 72Hz: 6480/72 = 90 per frame = 3x
At 60Hz: 7200/60 = 120 per frame = 4x
post #1204 of 8120
Ok, I think I'm getting it.

At 48Hz it's 5760/48 = 120 per frame = 4x. However I thought the 4805 had a 6x color wheel. Am I wrong about that or is it that speed at some very low refresh rate?

Is the faster the RPM the better for reducing rainbows?
post #1205 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by dustman52 View Post

I'm having a strange problem with my 4805 (or maybe my cable box-motorola 6412). I thought I would ask some experts . I have it hooked up with a DVI-D cable to my Infocus 4805. It works fine until I watch a DVD (by switching inputs to the component selection) which I have hooked up with the component cables. If I watch the movie for a long time (we'll say about an hour) when I switch back over to the 6412 and the DVI connection the picture comes up for only about a second them goes blank. This only happens if I don't use the DVI connection for a considerable amount of time. If I just switch back and forth within a couple of minutes I do not have the problem. I've tried powering off the 6412, but that doesn't work. If I switch to component (the DVD player) I still have a picture. The only way to resolve this issue I have found is powering down the 4805 and powering it back up (which uses up extra bulb life). Any ideas on how I can resolve this situation? It sucks watching a DVD and not being able to watch TV again without burning up bulb hours. Thanks in advance.

I am in the same boat, Dust. Except I can't restore my DVI connection at all. I have tired unplugging the Motorola STB, then the 4805, then powering them up in any order and I still have the same problem. I was curious if you bought the DVI to M1 adaptor that InFocus sells as an accessory, or if you are using an aftermarket cable with a built-in adaptor like me.
When I enter the Moto Menu before powering it up, it doesn't even recognize the DVI input any longer

Suggestions anyone, please?
post #1206 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by X View Post

I thought the 4805 had a 6x color wheel....Is the faster the RPM the better for reducing rainbows?

The SP4805 is spec'd as 4x. Yes, the faster speeds reduce RBE.
post #1207 of 8120
Thanks.

I'll try out 1280x720p @ 60Hz tonight. Then if motion isn't smooth I'll give 72Hz a try.
post #1208 of 8120
Anyone using a IR repeater with the 4805? If so, which one and were did you get it. I got a Harmony 880 remote for Christmas and would like to control the PJ with it, but the PJ is to my back when facing the equipment rack.
post #1209 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ja Phule View Post

However, if your pc is sending out studio levels (when using VMR9) then you want to use the 58/28.5 gains/offsets. Using video overlay will be using pc levels.

Which begs the question: why would anyone want to use overlay? Or better yet, who still uses overlay?
post #1210 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealgeno View Post

Which begs the question: why would anyone want to use overlay? Or better yet, who still uses overlay?

Anyone using HTPC with the free Nero player, WMP-10, PowerDVD, or someone that thinks almost $100 for Theater Tek is just bit much?

-W
post #1211 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luis Gabriel Gerena View Post

Yes indeed! My pc is my HTPC, my gaming pc, my music creation pc...you name it.
On the 854x480 topic....as Jason said, dont worry too much about it...it is more of a "YES I DID IT!" thing than a "WOW LOOK AT THE DIFFERENCE!". Yes you get a few extra pixels but clarity is still the same I think even though I think it looks a bit sharper at 854 but that is more than likely, the power of placebo working on me.

For ffdshow users, here are my settings:

Here are my FFDSHOW settings in the order they are setup:

Crop : TOP 56 Borrom 56 (depends on the dvd ratio)
Avysinth : ColorMatrix() this is complex as it involves other stuff installation.
Sharpen : asharp, High Quality checked, unsharp masking threshold .52 and the other two parameters at 0.
Warpsharp : chroma mode NONE, blur mode high quality 3 pass, DEPTH= 64 , Threshold= .99, Blur = 0
RESIZE : Mutiply by 4, No aspect correction checked, Lanczos = 2, luma sharpen = .91, chroma sharpen = 0

As you can see I dont use noise reducers because they ALWAYS, no matter how little, make you lose some detail and thats something I cant afford at 9' wide.

Resize by 4 is pretty demanding on CPU so depending on your system you may have to change that and then compensate by lowering sharpness too.

Here are my PCs specs:
thlon64 3400 Newcastle LBAZC 0451 @ 2778MHZ | Scythe Ninja w Delta 120mm FFB1212VHE 152CFM! | DFI LP NF3 250GB Bios Tmod 6/23 | 2x512MB OCZ PC4000 Gold VX 252 FSB @ 2-2-2-7 | X-Navigator Case | OCZ Powerstream 520W | X-Fi Fatal1ty | BFG 6800GT 415/1100 | 200GB Seagate 7200 | 40 GB Western Digital 7200 | 80GB Samsung 7200 | 3D Glasses | BenQ 1625 Lightscribe |Super Talent Active Ram Cooler |Logitech MX518| Ratzpad GS|Sennheiser HD 212 Pro

Hope that helps you. Some of the settings are probable not doing much but since it was looking so good I decided not to mess with it anymore.
Regards

Hey Luis, which version of ffdshow are you using?




I just got my 4805 from BB, and I'm building a screen, Monkey_Man's PJ mount, etc... The first night I got it, I took it over to my friend's house. He has an AE700, and I was interested in seeing how this little PJ stacked up against his HD PJ. We had some initial difficulty finding a way to get it projecting on his screen correctly, but once we did, I was quite impressed. We played a bit of PGR3 on my 4805 and then switched over to his AE700. We then put some movies in.

Both looked good, but I thought it was a pretty close PQ-wise with the usual advantages of both apparent. It basically came down to rez vs. black level and contrast. I chose to keep the 4805 because I simply didn't see enough difference in PQ between the two to justify paying a restocking fee and then paying $200-$300 more for the AE700. Besides, he was impressed as well. We BOTH lamented losing out on the Black Friday deal though.

In fairness, his bulb has almost a 1000 hrs on it so that may have hurt the comparision a bit. I did calibrate his PJ with DVE recently though, so who knows.
post #1212 of 8120
BTW, I put the PJ in it's approximate final mounting spot and then measured the projected image for my screen dimensions.

No zoom.

I'm measuring ~48 x 84.5". The Infocus calculator says 48 x 85.333". What gives?

Could it be the curvature, or irregularity of my plaster walls skewing my measurements slightly?
post #1213 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by mobius View Post

I'm measuring ~48 x 84.5". The Infocus calculator says 48 x 85.333"

What are you measuring? A displayed image from a computer/STB/DVD or the white/blue 'blank' screen obtained when pressing the "BLANK" button on the remote?

The 'blank' screen is the full active display area. Depending on your source and connection, a projected image may be smaller, ie. have unused columns of pixels on the sides.

A DVI digital source can use the entire display area, dependent on your choice of resolution, ie. an 848x480 HTPC source has 3 columns of dark pixels on each side. A 1080i DVI connection from a Moto STB uses the entire screen.

Is your display area square?? Measure both diagonals - they must be the same. If the projector is not properly aligned to the screen, the display will not be square.
post #1214 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

What are you measuring? A displayed image from a computer/STB/DVD or the white/blue 'blank' screen obtained when pressing the "BLANK" button on the remote?

The 'blank' screen is the full active display area. Depending on your source and connection, a projected image may be smaller, ie. have unused columns of pixels on the sides.

A DVI digital source can use the entire display area, dependent on your choice of resolution, ie. an 848x480 HTPC source has 3 columns of dark pixels on each side. A 1080i DVI connection from a Moto STB uses the entire screen.

Is your display area square?? Measure both diagonals - they must be the same. If the projector is not properly aligned to the screen, the display will not be square.


I'm measuring the white blank screen. I don't have any sources hooked up yet. As for the squareness, yeah, it's not square. The bottom of the image is more narrow than the top. I just jake-legged the PJ setup so I could get a feel for my mounting options.

I guess the best advice would be to go with Infocus' screen calculator then huh?
Maybe if I'd started on permanently mounting the PJ first I wouldn't be having these questions.
post #1215 of 8120
And for the record zoom isn't "bad", in fact you need to use a little zoom to leave room for adjustments later.
post #1216 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by gprro1 View Post

Should the 4805 make any noise at all when it turned off (hard power switch is flipped off)? Mine is making a very faint electrical buzz noise. You almost can't hear it from a couple feet away. Up close it is loudest near where the plug comes into the projector.

What are our lenses made of also? Plastic? I cleaned mine with some camera lens cleaner fluid, and thought it was clean, but a couple hours later I noticed a cloudy film on it while watching a movie.

Do you have the 4805 connected to a UPS by any chance? If so, then take it off the UPS. Otherwise, I'd try plugging it into a different outlet and see if the noise continues.
post #1217 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay DeMatarese View Post

I am in the same boat, Dust. Except I can't restore my DVI connection at all. I have tired unplugging the Motorola STB, then the 4805, then powering them up in any order and I still have the same problem. I was curious if you bought the DVI to M1 adaptor that InFocus sells as an accessory, or if you are using an aftermarket cable with a built-in adaptor like me.
When I enter the Moto Menu before powering it up, it doesn't even recognize the DVI input any longer

Suggestions anyone, please?

I bought my adapter from monoprice.com. One guy on the HDTV Recorders & Players forum said this:

I have a similar issue with DVI out of my computer to HDMI into my Sony HDTV. It's an issue with the video display card in the computer.

Until I change the card, un-plugging it from the TV and re-plugging it brings back the picture.


If I remember correctly I tried unplugging it from the 4805 and it didn't fix the problem. I have such a better picture with the DVI I would hate to have to go back to a component connection. One of the experts here has to have the solution
post #1218 of 8120
I just ordered a refurb projector from infocus, and now they sent me an email saying the M1 to component video adapter is backordered. I can't use the thing with my dvd player (a philips dvp642)until I get one of these.

Can anyone point me towards an alternate source for the adapter?


Thanks!
post #1219 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_f View Post

I just ordered a refurb projector from infocus, and now they sent me an email saying the M1 to component video adapter is backordered. I can't use the thing with my dvd player (a philips dvp642)until I get one of these.

Can anyone point me towards an alternate source for the adapter?


Thanks!

Why not just use the component input that is already on the 4805? If you have more than one component devices, use a component switch. You can get them as cheap as $25.

Besides, you do not want to use the m1 to component with the philips, the philips deinterlacer is pretty crappy compared to the faroudja used by the 4805. Send 480i from the philips using the 4805's component input. Using the m1 to component adapter means you must use 480p from your dvd player as the 4805 does not correctly process 480i via the m1 input.
post #1220 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay DeMatarese View Post

I am in the same boat, Dust. Except I can't restore my DVI connection at all. I have tired unplugging the Motorola STB, then the 4805, then powering them up in any order and I still have the same problem. I was curious if you bought the DVI to M1 adaptor that InFocus sells as an accessory, or if you are using an aftermarket cable with a built-in adaptor like me.
When I enter the Moto Menu before powering it up, it doesn't even recognize the DVI input any longer

Suggestions anyone, please?


I had similar problems, But I was hooking up a DVD player with HDMI/DVI cable to M1 adapter.

I have my cable TV coming in via component.

I went throught three DVD players that did the same blank screen thing (and length of time in between like DUST mentions.) I figured it was the HDCP of the players, and that was shutting down the signal as soon as a DVD started. My other theory was that any "p" (progressive scan) modes of the DVD player caused the handshake to misfire.

I called Infocus about this too, and they were not really any help. They thought it was my DVI run length (which is 25ft), but that is incorrect, since it works fine with my Bravo. Upgrade to latests firmware did not help either.

I ended up getting a Bravo D2 that has a real DVI output. I have had no problems since.

Do the cable/dish set top boxes have HDCP?


Good luck!
post #1221 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ja Phule View Post

Why not just use the component input that is already on the 4805? If you have more than one component devices, use a component switch. You can get them as cheap as $25.

Besides, you do not want to use the m1 to component with the philips, the philips deinterlacer is pretty crappy compared to the faroudja used by the 4805. Send 480i from the philips using the 4805's component input. Using the m1 to component adapter means you must use 480p from your dvd player as the 4805 does not correctly process 480i via the m1 input.

I agree. I picked up a DVP642 (awesome recommendation by you AVS guys!!!) last month and use the component inputs (sending 480i). It works great! I still need to calibrate with DVE/Avia but I am definitely impressed with the component connection. I expected much worse since I was previously using the DVI connection from my PC when watching DVDs.

On a different note, I also recently added a Comcast (Motorola) HD converter to my arsenal (connected via component too) and I couldn't believe how great the scaling quality (1080i source) was. I didn't think it was going to look as good as it did. I mainly watch ESPN HD / sporting events. The 55" Sony LCD HDTV I was planning on getting is slowly working it's way down the list now. I can't believe how much value I got for $850 ($700 for projector + $150 for DA Lite HCMW screen). The projector was initially slated to be a weekend warrior. It has since become a daily.
post #1222 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clams Canino View Post

Anyone using HTPC with the free Nero player, WMP-10, PowerDVD, or someone that thinks almost $100 for Theater Tek is just bit much?

-W

So I didn't convert you, heh? How about Zoomplayer with the dscaler codecs, or maybe ZP with the NVidia codecs?
post #1223 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by krasmuzik View Post

Go with 720P since the XBOX is a true progressive source. You will compromise your vertical source resolution with 1080i whenever there is high contrast motion - which is what video games are! 720P downsamples better to 480P being an even ratio anyways.

So, I should stick with 720p, even if a game supports true 1080i? I'm basically wondering if the extra detail simply won't be apparent due to the conversion.

I'd rather have a smooth picture than have to worry about scaling and interlacing.

If a source can support both 720p and 1080i, which will look better when scaled on the 4805?
post #1224 of 8120
So far I am batting .1000 on my questions thru the Forum!

My newest question is regarding painting my "screen" on the front wall for the 4805.
All of the walls in my HT room are white, so I will be painting all of the walls and cieling a darker color.
Do I have to go to a black, or does paiting it a darker color work just as well (say a dark blue)?
Also, should the walls be painted with flat or glossy paint?
That may be the dumbest ? of all time, but I'd rather not ass-u-me.

Final question regarding painting the screen.
I've looked thru the DIY Screen section a bunch, and haven't found the concrete information I am looking for!
What is the best color/formula to paint the screen section.
I'd rather not go with the good, and go the DIY route!

Thanks in advance again from the super-noob.
post #1225 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenM3 View Post


Do the cable/dish set top boxes have HDCP?


Yes, they do. Indeed, that's how the whole thing started.
I was doing fine with my DVI from cable box to 4805 with a DVI cable that I bought on eBay that has the m1 connection at the other end. But then that dang "The HD Content Protection of your Display Device Has Been Compromised" message began appearing on the menu screen of the set top box. Since then I've received NO signal thru the DVI cable, presumably because the box "got suspicious" and disabled it.
...Maybe its my frustration talking or Motorola's set top boxes aren't ready for it, but it seems to me that the whole HDCP scheme still is not ready for prime time yet. At least from a user-friendly connectivity standpoint.
Has anyone had any luck leaving the STB and PJ unplugged, say overnight, before trying to re-establish their DVI handshake?
post #1226 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay DeMatarese View Post

Yes, they do. Indeed, that's how the whole thing started.
I was doing fine with my DVI from cable box to 4805 with a DVI cable that I bought on eBay that has the m1 connection at the other end. But then that dang "The HD Content Protection of your Display Device Has Been Compromised" message began appearing on the menu screen of the set top box. Since then I've received NO signal thru the DVI cable, presumably because the box "got suspicious" and disabled it.
...Maybe its my frustration talking or Motorola's set top boxes aren't ready for it, but it seems to me that the whole HDCP scheme still is not ready for prime time yet. At least from a user-friendly connectivity standpoint.
Has anyone had any luck leaving the STB and PJ unplugged, say overnight, before trying to re-establish their DVI handshake?


I'd get on the phone with Motorolla.....the bastards!

add Toshiba and Samsung HDMI players to the "might work on Tuesday night" list too!

Good luck

DenM3
post #1227 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by FishPoker View Post

So far I am batting .1000 on my questions thru the Forum!


Do I have to go to a black, or does paiting it a darker color work just as well (say a dark blue)?
Also, should the walls be painted with flat or glossy paint?
.

I just did my room in a deep red, sort of a burgundy. (Behr "Roasted Pepper" to be exact! ) I used a step above flat, ...flat enamel. Ceiling is light, light yellow, sort of an egg nog color with a wall mounted screen. I don't think you need to go too far to the Dark Side!
I think there's a thread for screen construction that can help with your other issue. Screen-Goo is one product.
Good Luck!
post #1228 of 8120
hmmm, I guess I didn't do enough research. I wasn't aware that there was already component video inputs on the projector. I thought it just had the M1 port and everything had to go through that hence the different converters they suggested when I ordered it. So I should be fine with just the projector, three rca cables, and my dvd player.
post #1229 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by FishPoker View Post

What is the best color/formula to paint the screen section.
I'd rather not go with the good, and go the DIY route!

Thanks in advance again from the super-noob.

I used the Behr Silver Screen paint on a piece of primed sheet rock and it came out fine. The picture looked very close to the PQ I'm getting from my 106" graywolf
post #1230 of 8120
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_f View Post

hmmm, I guess I didn't do enough research. I wasn't aware that there was already component video inputs on the projector. I thought it just had the M1 port and everything had to go through that hence the different converters they suggested when I ordered it. So I should be fine with just the projector, three rca cables, and my dvd player.

I thought that may have been the case. The older Infocus 4800 (aka Infocus X1) did not have component inputs and needed the svideo to component or vga to component adapter. I'm hoping you got the 4805 and not the 4800.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread.