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The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread. - Page 22

post #631 of 8116
Hey, thanks cavu! Heh, could I possibly look like any more of a tourist? I am a LONG time lurker but have gleamed so much useful information from this board. I had tried to avoid registering as I would only spend even more time here! Thanks again!
post #632 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by James W. Johnson View Post

I just now got my DVI output from my Comcast HD/DVR box to my 4805. Wow, HD looks even better, I cannot believe its even better than component.

Cool, eh?!

Quote:
Originally Posted by James W. Johnson View Post

But what is up with the HD image not filing up the 16:9 panel on the 4805, HD is great but I am not digging the bars and smaller image I now have with HD material.

Assuming you are using the DVI or HDMI output of a Moto DCT6412 DVR, a 16:9 HD image does fill the entire display area (as defined by the 'blank' screen button).

Obviously, a full 4:3 HD image does not and has bars on the sides. You have different 4:3 options using the 4:3 override settings on the DVR - try them!

If your results differ, make sure the following settings are correct:

SP4805:
  • Aspect Ratio: Native
  • RGB Gains (3): 58
  • RGB Offsets (3): 28.5

DCT6412:
  • TV Type: 16:9
  • DVI/YPbPr Output: 1080i
  • 4:3 Override: OFF

(The RGB settings set the projector BTB and WTW to the 'studio' levels output by the DVR.)

If you have ongoing problems, I suggest you post to the Official Comcast 6412 w/ iGuide Discussion forum.
post #633 of 8116
SP4805:
Aspect Ratio: Native
RGB Gains (3): 58
RGB Offsets (3): 28.5

DCT6412:
TV Type: 16:9
DVI/YPbPr Output: 1080i
4:3 Override: OFF
>>>>>>>

Done.


Ah perfect, geez..ive had this box for nearly a year and never used the DVI until just now. I forgot all about that set-up menu.

thanks CAVU, its working perfectly now
post #634 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clams Canino View Post

Just a remider to some of the newbies that if you wanna go the HTPC route to get that pixel-mapped 480p stuff going you don't need much.

I'm fairly picky.... but not OCD picky like some... And I'm VERY happy with my little "retired computer dedicated to HTPC" project. For those that bought the 4805 because of a tight budget, there is a way to do a "tight budget HTPC" too.
The ability to store and manipulate movies is well worth it. -W

To elaborate more on my Budget HTPC post from page 19:

The HTPC forum here on AVS has a sticky thread with links to all kinds of great freeware and utilities. Including DVDShrink 3.2 - check it out!

Start with a clean formatted hard disk. Partition it so that the C: drive is about 9gigs - that will handle your windows install and all software. Make the second partion your D: drive and use that to store all your movies. (one big advantage to doing this is that if something gets really hosed- like Windows -you can format the C: drive and re-install , without losing anything you stored. Ugrade the fresh install with DirectX9c and WMP 10 right off.

Disable the recycle bin on the D: drive, your average movie may not fit it anyway. If you add a second hard disk it's E: , format it as one big drive - no recycle bin.
Your average "main movie" on a DVD is 3.5-6.5 gigs. If you let DVDShrink rip the main movie and compress it (the long way) you can get all your single disk titles to 3.5 - 4.5 gig per movie with minimal quality loss on the bigger ones. I never compress a movie smaller than 4.5 gig. This means for every 100g of hard drive space you can store about 25 movies. Hard disk movies are fast access and easy to manipulate.

If you slam a pair of 250 gig drives in the machine, and subtract 10gig for the OS partition, and 10gig for your CD's ripped to MP3 music collection and you'll have 480 gigs left for movies. Allowing you to store about 120 4g movies on the HTPC.

If you have a good 10/100 network you can store movies (and music) on other boxes and play them right over the network. I have about .75 terrabyte of total network storage.

The Nvidia 77.77 XP drivers have an 848x480 setting built in. Easy place to start. More advanced users can use the free utility "Powerstrip" to change display settings on the fly. Low HP machines outta use the "single display" setting in the Nvidia drivers.... so it don't have to work to make 2 screens at once. I use the Nvidia 5700 card - and don't reccomend using much less of a card.

There are many "gamer" utilities that allow you to shut down unneeded services in Windows XP to allow more horsepower to be used for gaming demands. Weaker machines (<500mhz) benifit a bit from doing this for HTPC too.

The SB Audigy 2zs has direct digital out and a THX optimizer of it's own, I selected it for that reason. But even a cheap SB Live 5.0 will get you going.

For player software: Even WMP10 will play a DVD - or a DVD ripped to disk. If you buy a Sony DVD burner (check out how cheap the old DRU700 series drives are going!) they come with the Nero suite. Nero alows you to burn directly from within DVDshrink 3.2 and the suite has a decent little DVD player included. Other Sony drives come with Power DVD - another decent little player. If you wanna actually buy a player - most here use Theater Tek.

Ebay is a great source for slightly used drives, cards, and parts - as well as good liscenced software. I've never had a real problem in over 400 transactions. The budget HTPC builder is wise to get parts that were "last years big news".

I usually start my tests on the little monitor on the VGA port at 800x600 and then at 1024x768. If you can get the box to play OK there - it won't have any trouble when doing 848x480 over the DVI output for your SP4805.

Star Wars episode IV "A New Hope" has everyhting you need to set up a quick and dirty HTPC and get pretty darn close to spot-on. Use the THX optimiser (change the settings in your software player, not the 4805) and then play the 1st 5 minutes of the movie. During those 1st five minutes you get to see a very video demading scene when that Star Destroyer forces every pixel to move at once. You get great white scenes in the little ship, you get a great dark scene when Leia is feeding the message to R2, you can use Vader to see your blacks, and you can use the side lights and R2's lights to get a good feel for color saturation. If you hear Darth Vader say "You are a part of the Rebel Alliance and a traitor - take her away!" you went TOO FAR and got sucked into watching the movie. Get back to work!

-W
post #635 of 8116
I'll note that I've been building my own PC's for over 20 years and have become a bit of a "brand snob". I use only Intel CPU's and chipsets, Award Bios, Western Digital hard drives, Sony CD / DVD drives, Creative Sound Blaster audio cards, and Nvidia video cards. My networks are all Linksys (Cisco).

You can use other stuff... but I've never EVER had a problem with the above components and the drivers they come with - new or used. Ever.

-W
post #636 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clams Canino View Post

To elaborate more on my Budget HTPC post from page 19:

The HTPC forum here on AVS has a sticky thread with links to all kinds of great freeware and utilities. Including DVDShrink 3.2 - check it out!

Start with a clean formatted hard disk. Partition it so that the C: drive is about 9gigs - that will handle your windows install and all software. Make the second partion your D: drive and use that to store all your movies. (one big advantage to doing this is that if something gets really hosed- like Windows -you can format the C: drive and re-install , without losing anything you stored. Ugrade the fresh install with DirectX9c and WMP 10 right off.

Disable the recycle bin on the D: drive, your average movie may not fit it anyway. If you add a second hard disk it's E: , format it as one big drive - no recycle bin.
Your average "main movie" on a DVD is 3.5-6.5 gigs. If you let DVDShrink rip the main movie and compress it (the long way) you can get all your single disk titles to 3.5 - 4.5 gig per movie with minimal quality loss on the bigger ones. I never compress a movie smaller than 4.5 gig. This means for every 100g of hard drive space you can store about 25 movies. Hard disk movies are fast access and easy to manipulate.

If you slam a pair of 250 gig drives in the machine, and subtract 10gig for the OS partition, and 10gig for your CD's ripped to MP3 music collection and you'll have 480 gigs left for movies. Allowing you to store about 120 4g movies on the HTPC.

If you have a good 10/100 network you can store movies (and music) on other boxes and play them right over the network. I have about .75 terrabyte of total network storage.

The Nvidia 77.77 XP drivers have an 848x480 setting built in. Easy place to start. More advanced users can use the free utility "Powerstrip" to change display settings on the fly. Low HP machines outta use the "single display" setting in the Nvidia drivers.... so it don't have to work to make 2 screens at once. I use the Nvidia 5700 card - and don't reccomend using much less of a card.

There are many "gamer" utilities that allow you to shut down unneeded services in Windows XP to allow more horsepower to be used for gaming demands. Weaker machines (<500mhz) benifit a bit from doing this for HTPC too.

The SB Audigy 2zs has direct digital out and a THX optimizer of it's own, I selected it for that reason. But even a cheap SB Live 5.0 will get you going.

For player software: Even WMP10 will play a DVD - or a DVD ripped to disk. If you buy a Sony DVD burner (check out how cheap the old DRU700 series drives are going!) they come with the Nero suite. Nero alows you to burn directly from within DVDshrink 3.2 and the suite has a decent little DVD player included. Other Sony drives come with Power DVD - another decent little player. If you wanna actually buy a player - most here use Theater Tek.

Ebay is a great source for slightly used drives, cards, and parts - as well as good liscenced software. I've never had a real problem in over 400 transactions. The budget HTPC builder is wise to get parts that were "last years big news".

Star Wars episode IV "A New Hope" has everyhting you need to set up a quick and dirty HTPC and get pretty darn close to spot-on. Use the THX optimiser (change the settings in your software player, not the 4805) and then play the 1st 5 minutes of the movie. During those 1st five minutes you get to see a very video demading scene when that Star Destroyer forces every pixel to move at once. You get great white scenes in the little ship, you get a great dark scene when Leia is feeding the message to R2, you can use Vader to see your blacks, and you can use the side lights and R2's lights to get a good feel for color saturation. If you hear Darth Vader say "You are a part of the Rebel Alliance and a traitor - take her away!" you went TOO FAR and got sucked into watching the movie. Get back to work!

-W

I will delve into this after the Holidays.

Like I said I want one for control of all my CONCERT DVDS and this sounds like the way to go...Thank-U for the info.

HH
post #637 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerHarley View Post

I will delve into this after the Holidays.

Like I said I want one for control of all my CONCERT DVDS and this sounds like the way to go...Thank-U for the info.

HH

If you become an "advanced user" of DVDShrink 3.2 , you can even pull parts out of a DVD and re-author your own mixes. I'm not quite there yet.... The best I can do is add trailers to a movie, or combine a 2 disk movie into 1.

-W
post #638 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clams Canino View Post

If you become an "advanced user" of DVDShrink 3.2 , you can even pull parts out of a DVD and re-author your own mixes. I'm not quite there yet.... The best I can do is add trailers to a movie, or combine a 2 disk movie into 1.

-W

I made a DEMO DVD from scenes from movies to show off my system using Shrink...It was`a`lot of work because I know I did it the long way but it is nice to have something to show to your friends

HH
post #639 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerHarley View Post

I made a DEMO DVD from scenes from movies to show off my system using Shrink...It was`a`lot of work because I know I did it the long way but it is nice to have something to show to your friends

HH

Where's my copy?
post #640 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clams Canino View Post

To elaborate more on my Budget HTPC post from page 19:

The HTPC forum here on AVS has a sticky thread with links to all kinds of great freeware and utilities. Including DVDShrink 3.2 - check it out!

Start with a clean formatted hard disk. Partition it so that the C: drive is about 9gigs - that will handle your windows install and all software. Make the second partion your D: drive and use that to store all your movies. (one big advantage to doing this is that if something gets really hosed- like Windows -you can format the C: drive and re-install , without losing anything you stored. Ugrade the fresh install with DirectX9c and WMP 10 right off.

Disable the recycle bin on the D: drive, your average movie may not fit it anyway. If you add a second hard disk it's E: , format it as one big drive - no recycle bin.
Your average "main movie" on a DVD is 3.5-6.5 gigs. If you let DVDShrink rip the main movie and compress it (the long way) you can get all your single disk titles to 3.5 - 4.5 gig per movie with minimal quality loss on the bigger ones. I never compress a movie smaller than 4.5 gig. This means for every 100g of hard drive space you can store about 25 movies. Hard disk movies are fast access and easy to manipulate.

If you slam a pair of 250 gig drives in the machine, and subtract 10gig for the OS partition, and 10gig for your CD's ripped to MP3 music collection and you'll have 480 gigs left for movies. Allowing you to store about 120 4g movies on the HTPC.

If you have a good 10/100 network you can store movies (and music) on other boxes and play them right over the network. I have about .75 terrabyte of total network storage.

The Nvidia 77.77 XP drivers have an 848x480 setting built in. Easy place to start. More advanced users can use the free utility "Powerstrip" to change display settings on the fly. Low HP machines outta use the "single display" setting in the Nvidia drivers.... so it don't have to work to make 2 screens at once. I use the Nvidia 5700 card - and don't reccomend using much less of a card.

There are many "gamer" utilities that allow you to shut down unneeded services in Windows XP to allow more horsepower to be used for gaming demands. Weaker machines (<500mhz) benifit a bit from doing this for HTPC too.

The SB Audigy 2zs has direct digital out and a THX optimizer of it's own, I selected it for that reason. But even a cheap SB Live 5.0 will get you going.

For player software: Even WMP10 will play a DVD - or a DVD ripped to disk. If you buy a Sony DVD burner (check out how cheap the old DRU700 series drives are going!) they come with the Nero suite. Nero alows you to burn directly from within DVDshrink 3.2 and the suite has a decent little DVD player included. Other Sony drives come with Power DVD - another decent little player. If you wanna actually buy a player - most here use Theater Tek.

Ebay is a great source for slightly used drives, cards, and parts - as well as good liscenced software. I've never had a real problem in over 400 transactions. The budget HTPC builder is wise to get parts that were "last years big news".

I usually start my tests on the little monitor on the VGA port at 800x600 and then at 1024x768. If you can get the box to play OK there - it won't have any trouble when doing 848x480 over the DVI output for your SP4805.

Star Wars episode IV "A New Hope" has everyhting you need to set up a quick and dirty HTPC and get pretty darn close to spot-on. Use the THX optimiser (change the settings in your software player, not the 4805) and then play the 1st 5 minutes of the movie. During those 1st five minutes you get to see a very video demading scene when that Star Destroyer forces every pixel to move at once. You get great white scenes in the little ship, you get a great dark scene when Leia is feeding the message to R2, you can use Vader to see your blacks, and you can use the side lights and R2's lights to get a good feel for color saturation. If you hear Darth Vader say "You are a part of the Rebel Alliance and a traitor - take her away!" you went TOO FAR and got sucked into watching the movie. Get back to work!

-W

Really nice post. Thx.

I am thinking of doing this as well. Debating between the Oppo DVD or getting a HTPC.
post #641 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by therealgeno View Post

Bookhouseboy

First of all, don't use PC gamma - it actually messes your colors rather than giving them a boost.

Second, not sure about the Xbox 360. We discovered that unless your Xbox was modded to play DVDs @ 480p, calibrating the Xbox was useless for games because it only plays dvds @ 480i.

Thanks.

So, should I just use Movie Gamma?
post #642 of 8116
I recommend using whatever looks best to your own eyes. That IS the ultimate picture.
post #643 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder696969 View Post

Where's my copy?

Go to this THREAD for links and info for a copy of what they have going on.

HH
post #644 of 8116
While it is hard to argue against "whatever looks best to your own eyes is the ultimate picture" it should be noted that many people are acclimated to TVs from stores that haven't been calibrated, have the contrast set too high as well as brightness and "sharpness", and are no where near color correct. There is much to be said for using the proper gamma and calibrating the pj and giving yourself a couple weeks to "retrain" your eye as it were. Of course that means you'll be calibrating every TV set in the house or just not watching them ;-)

Peace,

Geo
post #645 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder696969 View Post

I recommend using whatever looks best to your own eyes. That IS the ultimate picture.

There is a real reason NOT to use PC gamma - it messes up the greyscale. Check it out next time - the colors get messed up.

But as far as CRT to BR2, you pick. I think Film looks best to me, and for that occasional poorly mastered DVD that appears too dark, notching it up to video gamma really helps.
post #646 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clams Canino View Post

The SB Audigy 2zs has direct digital out and a THX optimizer of it's own, I selected it for that reason. But even a cheap SB Live 5.0 will get you going.

Great post clams. I'm going through the HTPC creation process right now for my 4805 and wanted to point out one thing regarding audio cards to people who, like me:

1) have an A/V receiver that does not have individual analog RCA inputs for 5.1 DD

AND

2) want to get DD 5.1 sound on PC games as well through the same system you use for DVDs.

If you match that above criteria, Creative Labs can't help you because their cards do not support Dolby Digital Live. If you hook up your PC to your A/V receiver via a single digital TOSLink optical or RCA cable using a SB card you will only get stereo for PC game sound. There are (as far as I know) only three cards that will turn PC game EAX surround into DD 5.1 that you can output directly into the digital connection of your existing HT DD A/V receiver:

Bluegears X-Mystique 7.1 Sound Card
TurtleBeach Montego 7.1 Dolby Digital Live Surround Sound Card

and another one from Terratec whose name escapes me.

Hope this makes sense,

Dan
post #647 of 8116
I got my 4805 a few days back and have been spending all available time playing with it and setting it up and reading the 4805 threads. I've had a Samsung DLP HLP5063W for over a year, so it ends up being sort of a "reference".

I'd like to know if there's anyone in the San Jose area (I live in Fremont, work in Sunnyvale) who has a "good" setup with the 4805, and would be willing to do a small demo of their setup. Could you PM me? I'd like to get an idea of what's possible with the 4805.

Right now, I have the 4805 ceiling mounted, about 14 ft from the screen. I'm testing out the 92" Graywolf right now. I'm quite happy with the detail and contrast. I've used AVIA for contrast and brightness adjustment(don't have the blue filter now to do color adjustments), which end up exactly at the factory settings!

I hope there's more improvement/variations possible in color saturation and "pop" from this with proper setup and choice of screen. The colors are closer(but not quite) to the "cinema" setting of my DLP and so is quite good with detail in dark scenes etc. But the colors seem a bit dull. HD is fed over componet, and DVDs from HTPC over VGA. I've fed my RPTV similarly.

The Graywolf is retro-reflective, so I expect some gain loss with ceiling mount, but it's not supposed to not change the image in any other way, right? I do notice that if I stand up and view it from near the projector the colors seem more vibrant (is it just the brightness?)

I haven't seen any other installations with other setups, so I hope if I look at some other "good" setups I know what to shoot for.

Others who have actually had/compared this with DLP RPTVs, how should I set my expectations? I've read people here talk of 4805 as a 92" plasma, is that the right realistic standard?
post #648 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by foobart View Post

Samsung DLP HLP5063W ... Others who have actually had/compared this with DLP RPTV

As it happens, I took my Moto 6412 DVR over to my buddy's last night to see how good my HDTV recordings looked on his Samsung 5063 compared to my 480p projector!

Using the DVI port, in "Cinema" mode on the Samsung:
  • colours were significantly oversaturated
  • the contrast was too high causing a lot of white flare
  • Sharpness was set too high, and
  • I could not get the blacks fully black.

Reducing many of the settings on the Samsung to "50" improved things a lot. For instance, we had to reduce the "colour" a lot so that we could distinguish facial pores and wrinkles.

It appeared to me that the 5063 doesn't have "real" colour temperature or gamma controls - it just alters the colour, tint, brightness and contrast to create an "effect".

The "standard" and other settings were waaayyy too blue!

I was impressed that there was NO SDE on the Samsung (I don't know how they accomplish that).

I brought the DVR home and immediately hooked it up to the SP4805 again and was very pleased with the PQ compared to the Samsung.

PS. I don't know why but the Samsung also suffered from significant pincushion.
post #649 of 8116
could someone suggest a good budget dvd player that does a good 480i signal through component? i'd like to spend $75 or less. i know of the old panny rp91, rp82 etc. but i cannot find them online much. i'd like to get something now, and i can always sell it if i find a rp91 or whatever for a reasonable price. i'm considering the sony DVPNS50P/S. btw: i also NEED coaxial digital 5.1 output, as my onkyo reciever has only toslink and coaxial, and my xbox360 shall occupy the toslink.
post #650 of 8116
Quote:


If you match that above criteria, Creative Labs can't help you because their cards do not support Dolby Digital Live.

I'm not totally following that Dan. Does this new card not meet your critiria? I'm putting one in my system just for some fun and some RnD tommorow....

X Fi Extreme
post #651 of 8116
Cavu,

thanks for your reply. I hope others respond to my original mail and help me get a better idea of the differences.

I and most HLP5063 owners have sharpness turned down to below 10. Also, with almost any high contrast setting, the AVIA needle pulses are clearly visible, and there don't seem to be any blurring of the gray blocks in the pattern (I'm not a real calibration junkie, so pardon any imprecise terminology..) so is there no white flare??

It's clear that you noticed differences. Now, lets say if we want to have a similar "oversaturation" of colors (make reality more vibrant??:-)). Do you think we can get similar picture from the 4805 with tweaking? How can we do it? I'd be very interested . What I know is, the Samsung DLP seems to be capable of making real saturated colors, to very accurate color representation (based on the avsforum 5063 folks who had ISF calibrations done) similar to what you and others have in mind. How can I get the 4805 to (over?)saturate colors if I sometimes want it to..?

I'd like others to read and respond to my original mail and not take this down this 1 track only..
post #652 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by foobart View Post

It's clear that you noticed differences. Now, lets say if we want to have a similar "oversaturation" of colors (make reality more vibrant??). Do you think we can get similar picture from the 4805 with tweaking?

Frankly, I don't know.

I am using DVI digital sources and the SP4805 defeats the colour and tint controls for that input. My RGB Gains and Offsets are preset to calibrated studio digital levels and I don't mess with them.

I take that to mean that the SP4805 is displaying the colour tone and saturation present in the source signal, no more, no less.

I imagine that, if you wish to create artificially saturated colour, you will have to use an analog input.

Edit: I hooked up an S-Video cable and was able to produce the oversaturated colours I saw on the Samsung by running the SP4805 colour control up to about 90.
post #653 of 8116
foobart

Are you using 6500K color temp? What DVD player are you using - that HTPC in your sig? If so, what software DVD player are you using?

Is color weak for DVDs only, or HD as well? And you say you have tweaked sat/hue via Avia or DVE?

FWIW, especially on HD, when people come over, the first thing they mention is the color, then they can't believe how clear and sharp the picture is, especially on a 92" screen!
post #654 of 8116
Fellas, finally!! I have before me a BFG 6600 GT OC, courtesy of the WAF and a brand new motherboard on its way in the mail, again courtesy of the WAF (early Christmas presents).

All I need now is to buy a new case, probably this one.
post #655 of 8116
All right gang, I'm about to clean my filters for the first time. After I pull out the lamp housing do I hvae to use one of those portable vaccuum cleaners to suck the dust out? I don't have one - I only have a regular old vaccuum cleaner (but it has some connectors on it). Would those work?
post #656 of 8116
therealgeno,

I use media player classic on my htpc. I'm talking of both HD and DVD/HTPC ,mainly in comparison with my DLP RPTV. Which is why I'm particularly interested in how people who've compared/own RPTV/ plasma feel. Sometimes people's opinion needs to be considered in context because anyone who's coming from an experience with old SD displays would find any HD/ED displays mind-blowing. Now we're talking about comparisons among good displays... This is what I'm trying to figure out.

The golden standard would be how your neighborhood movie theater picture looks. then there are all these PJs, RPs etc.. How do these compare?

To my not so trained eye, the 4805 picture(my current setup) seems to look like an unbleached fabric, compared to the 5063 which looks like a bleached, saturated fabric. Maybe the bleached look is the "wrong" look, but more vibrant?

Edit: I'm using 6500 temp, tried the others, but werent better obviously. Used video/film gamma
post #657 of 8116
Geno I have another version of that case and I think you will be happy with it. Only pain is the cover mounting screws are on the bottom, and not the back like most cases. It's so so on the quite scale because of the two small fans, but if you go with a quite cpu cooler you will be good.

Foobart, what resoultion is the 4805 reporting using that player? I could never get anything but 800x600 out of the Windows players no matter what resoulution I set the video cards to.
post #658 of 8116
Quote:


mainly in comparison with my DLP RPTV. Which is why I'm particularly interested in how people who've compared/own RPTV/ plasma feel. Sometimes people's opinion needs to be considered in context because anyone who's coming from an experience with old SD displays would find any HD/ED displays mind-blowing.

Foobart I have a plasma at work (and at home for awhile until I bored with the small size) and RPTV CRT HD upstairs and the 4805 in HD is amazing. Period. I have never had anyone with a HD display at home not walk in and see the image and have their jaw drop. I dont have any friends with Runcos, but even if I did, when you consider the set up is 1/10th or less the price...its money well spent.

Now that I think about it, I don't have any friends. Period. I need to get out more.
post #659 of 8116
Quote:
Originally Posted by foobart View Post

Cavu,

thanks for your reply. I hope others respond to my original mail and help me get a better idea of the differences.

I and most HLP5063 owners have sharpness turned down to below 10. Also, with almost any high contrast setting, the AVIA needle pulses are clearly visible, and there don't seem to be any blurring of the gray blocks in the pattern (I'm not a real calibration junkie, so pardon any imprecise terminology..) so is there no white flare??

It's clear that you noticed differences. Now, lets say if we want to have a similar "oversaturation" of colors (make reality more vibrant??:-)). Do you think we can get similar picture from the 4805 with tweaking? How can we do it? I'd be very interested . What I know is, the Samsung DLP seems to be capable of making real saturated colors, to very accurate color representation (based on the avsforum 5063 folks who had ISF calibrations done) similar to what you and others have in mind. How can I get the 4805 to (over?)saturate colors if I sometimes want it to..?

I'd like others to read and respond to my original mail and not take this down this 1 track only..


The Samsung is one of the few DLP that use colors more intense than the HD standards allow. While at first this is attractive - you soon realize what unreality it causes - because pink becomes red and so on. Those who get their sets ISFd have the controls to dial it to perfect SD/HD standard and the picture looks much more realistic - which does mean less cartoony and vivid. Samsung gets the award for the worst out of the box but the best after ISF. Generally colors are defined by the color wheel - only Sharp and NEC come to mind as those that allowed editing of the primary colors. So you are stuck with your Infocus colors - but if you have not had your Samsung ISF'd - the Infocus is more accurate. In fact the SP4805 is even more accurate than the SP7205 - as it has a more intense red that is not accurate. You would be happier with the H31 - as it leans to more vivid colors at the expense of accuracy....
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Hey Kras...if it was your money...what hamburger would buy today?
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Projectors - Under $3,000 USD MSRP › The 2nd Official Infocus 4805 Thread.