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The Official Untreated Do-able Only Thread

post #1 of 1167
12/14/05 at 12:46pm
Thread Starter 
Are you the type of person that wants a no-hassle, permanent, and easy maintenance screen for a low price? Not interested in painting and sanding? Well then, this is the one. I introduce you to Do-able board!

Skyman and myself have decided that it is time for the Do-able folks to have a thread of their own. Especially since melamine isn't exactly Do-able.

Do-able board can be found at most Home Depot (HD) stores in central and western U.S. Sorry East Coast.

Here is the tag for the board along with the proper SKU number. Remember, if it doesn't match, it's not Do-able.



If you have the board at your local HD, have the nice folks that work there cut it to the proper dimensions.

For a 100 inch diagonal screen you are going to want to have 49" by 87".
Even though the tag says 4x8 feet, it's really 49" by 97".

The board does not need to be painted or treated. Just hang on the wall and start projecting.


The weight of the board on sheetrock is no problem. I have it hanging on my wall using the four mirror brackets with four screws.

As for the issue of hotspotting; both, Skyman and myself, have the do-able board, and as of right now, have never experienced hotspotting. The board almost absorbs the high contrasting light leaving a beautiful picture in it's wake.



Please ask as many questions as you would like!

I will post some links to my photos and Skyman will post some links also and to other references to this wonderous board.
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post #2 of 1167
12/14/05 at 12:48pm
Excellent Rahl!

Folks,
Here's what you want:
1/4" X 49" X 97" Do-able white vinyl panel mfg by Do-able Products and sold at HD. UPC(DP #) 718793630365, SKU(HD #) 174278, model # 63036.

As I have always said, if you have a dedicated room(light control), can live with a 100" dia.(16:9 AR, 49" X 87", even wider if you go 2.35:1) or smaller, don't need a perf screen, don't want to spend/waste a sh!t load of time frame building, stretching, stapling, gluing to stiff backing, mixing, rolling, spraying, etc and don't want to spend $ on the many versions of the latest ingredient mix(I did this 2 years ago and found it to be quite the PITA!) and the substrate to be painted(poly-wall, board or stretched fabric over frame), then Do-able is for you! Hell, HD will cut it for you right there!

I've helped set up 3 HTs with this panel. All are very happy with their screens. I hand-picked each board myself as you need to go through the entire stack to make sure they are mark/scratch free. None of them have reported any hotspotting, glare or reflectivity viewable.
Do-able Products, CA (used to be Davidson Plywood), as any reputable company, wouldn't allow this type of inconsistency to ever leave their mfg plant.
Are there similar boards in the same area that ppl could easily mistake for Do-able? Sure, easy mistake to make...
If your HD doesn't have this SKU and model numbered product then don't buy something "similar" and think you're buying Do-able. Simple as that.

And no, you don't need to paint it.

Bottom line: It is the easiest, quickest and cheapest diy screen option with amazing PQ to boot. The H&E (Hang & Enjoy) solution.

Info, specs and data from Garry (Prof55):

The graph shows the gain of Doable vs Dalite Matte White and Stewart StudioTek 130, from straight on to 60 degrees off axis. Doable compares favorably to both; its slight sheen is responsible for the above unity gain. Gain is 1.13.

The RGB color is 229/223/233. This is very close to true white, as close as virtually any commercial screen. The slight excess in blue should cause no problems.

The surface texture is light enough that I doubt it is visible unless one is very close to the screen on bright panning shots, and is very similar to commercial screen textures.

Thanks Garry!

Great write up by KillRob here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8786225

Also, KillRob has used Goo Gone as a cleaner for Do-able and received very good results.

Now for the downside: [u]Do-able is NOT available east or south of the CO borders]

Just added 3 more states to the list. Unfortunately, in the wrong direction, west. Do-able is available in only 12 states: AK, AZ, CA, CO, HI, ID, MT, NV, OR, UT, WA & WY. Below you'll find the actual HD store locations where we've purchased our do-able white vinyl panels.

Rahl: HD Great Falls, MT
Skyman00: HD Longmont, Boulder, Superior & Evergreen (El Rancho Rd), CO.
SovKnight: HD Midvale, UT. found this stuff all over Salt Lake City.
homer1963: HD Riverdale, UT 84405 & Ogden, UT. 84401.
MaximAvs: HD Aurora, CO.
robertmeldrum: HD Edmunds, WA. north of Seattle.
thrash64: HD Olympia WA.
fugueness: HD Berkeley, CA.
Devedander: HD in zip 95492
redcorvette_85: HD Bothell, WA.
Jizzay1: HD Colma, CA.
jeepster360: HD Lewiston, ID.
mbonikow: HD Mt Vernon, WA.
Allen: HD SF Bay Area
bobpdx: HD Portland, OR.
pierceoscar: HD La Mirada, CA & Whittier, CA.
fasi22mob: HD Spokane, WA.
Xavarri: HD Salt Lake, UT.
phisch: HD Westminister, Broomfield, CO. 88031
diycomment: HD Sacramento, CA.
BlackFire: HD SF Bay Area - South Bay near the Great Mall in Milpitas/ East Palo Alto, CA.
stjohnh: HD Palo Alto, CA.
jw2431: HD (408) 492-9600 2435 Lafayette St. Santa Clara, CA.
bahsura: HD #615 435 W Katella Ave Orange, CA. 92867 (714)538-9600.
SiC FoX: HD South Jordan, UT. Salt Lake City 90th South and Redwood.
typh92: HD Spokane, WA. near Liberty Lake.
pcrx: HD Tacoma, Bonney Lake & Puyallup, WA.
amtctt: HD Scottsdale, AZ.
rikdin: HD Santa Barbara, CA.
jomari: HD San Jose, CA.
nolig: HD 16800 Roscoe Blvd Van Nuys, CA 91406 (818)780-5448
jgriffin: HD Redmond, WA. (East of Seattle)
icer: HD Henderson, NV. So. Nevada, the East Charleston HD (Charelston and Lamb) and the Eastern HD (by Super WM--on Eastern)
sakamadison: HD Bozeman, MT.
mebedaman: Las Vegas, NV Pecos HD (I believe this was the "Eastern" HD.
amisam: HD Bothell, WA.
chesterdad: HD Foster City, CA.
JustinJDog: HD Provo, UT.
ravencr: HD Severence, CO.
kenf729 :Portland, OR Hillsboro (tv highway) HD
watsonusn: HD Aurora, CO.
frankie_v: HD Portland, OR.
saurav: HD Portland, OR.
roelm415: HD Stockton, CA
Axia: HD Van Nuys Location, Roscoe and Balboa (Los Angeles)
Castle Rock, CO


There is hope for those that want Do-able available east of the Rockies; see below: -j
____________________________________________________________ _____
Help get Do-able into all US HD stores. SKU# 174278. Contact your local HD management first, then call HD HQ:1-800-553-3199 (7), make a product request and provide your store's #.
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post #3 of 1167
12/14/05 at 12:51pm
Thread Starter 
Here is the link to my photos of this board.

Pictures were taken with a Kodak Easyshare 3.1 megapixel camera.

The screenshots seem a little dark and don't pick up all of the details.
For instance, on Spidey's costume, you can see the intricate brick design on the suit and the picture of the spider biting Peter Parker's hand, you can see the individual hairs on the spider's legs.

All pictures were taken from 15 feet back with the camera zoomed in to get a full shot of just the screen.

The projector is an InFocus 4805 mounted upside down on top of shelf 15 feet back from the screen wall.

Do-able Screenshots and screen setup
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post #4 of 1167
12/14/05 at 12:52pm
Thread Starter 
This is how I did my hanging and framing of the Do-able.

Stay tuned for how Skyman mounted and framed his!!

For the screen hanging, I used the mirror brackets that are an inch wide.
Make sure you get the ones that hold a 1/4 inch board or mirror.
Here is a picture.


I painted my brackets white to blend in with the screen.

Screw the bottom ones into the wall at the same heigth. Make sure they cannot move.

Screw the top ones in at the top but make sure they aren't tight. They need to be able to slide up and down.

Take the board (screen) and place it into the bottom brackets.

Push the top of the screen back towards the wall and slide the top brackets up so that the board can go under them. Then slide the brackets down so that they hold the board against the wall and you are done with hanging the screen.

Just make sure you measure everything twice before screwing the brackets into the wall.

Now for the frame.

Since I don't have a table saw, I used a jigsaw to cut the frame pieces flat so no 45 degree angle.

They are 1x3s.

I cut them at 55 inches for the sides and 87 inches for the top and bottom to form a perfect square frame.

I painted them black with just some flat black paint. Flat black is pretty much the same all around so I don't think that different brands will be much different.

I screwed them directly to the wall around the screen, flush up against the screen board.

The screen weighs less than what a piece of mirror wieghs so it will be no problem on your sheet rock. Just get some 1 inch screws for the mirror bracks and some 1 1/2 inch screws for the frame.

You could use 1 1/2 inch finishing nails for the frame so you don't see the screws. That's what I plan on doing next time.
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post #5 of 1167
12/14/05 at 1:05pm
As stated above, don't confuse this product with similar ones above and below it.

I found that the shelf tag for the Do-able hangs above it, from the shelf of a different product. That product is "Melamine Coated" board mfg by Colledgewood.
It has an obvious horizontal "grain" to it. It's 1/8" X 3' X 7'. SKU- 680260, model - 80018, UPC #- 697726062377.
Be careful here as this products shelf tag states: Do-able This is the stuff you DONT want.

Also researched the ¾ Melamine board mfg by Roseburg Forest Products. It is located underneath the Do-able board that this thread is about. It is ¾ X 49 X 97 Model and SKU # 461877, UPC # 053608007193 It has an obvious visual difference to the Do-able; a glossy shine. I suspect this is why the 3/4 Melamine users have painted their screens. I would not recommend this board unless you plan to paint it (different thread).

HTH, -j
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post #6 of 1167
12/14/05 at 1:08pm
Have you guys compaired Do-able to BOC?! I have a BOC screen now that has a blemish on it. I was going to replace the fabric, but now I'm thinking about Do-able.

Rahl,
The pictures you took are great. I too have a 4805, and I think this would be agood match!!


Sean
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post #7 of 1167
12/14/05 at 1:10pm
Some things that we'd like to find out from other users here:

Who out there is using it for their screen?
What PJ are you using?
What's your throw?
What's your size screen?
What's your viewing distance?
What kind of light conditions are you viewing in?
Are you seeing any hotspotting?
If so, are you sure you're using the right board?
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post #8 of 1167
12/14/05 at 1:13pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximAvs View Post

Have you guys compaired Do-able to BOC?! I have a BOC screen now that has a blemish on it. I was going to replace the fabric, but now I'm thinking about Do-able.

Rahl,
The pictures you took are great. I too have a 4805, and I think this would be agood match!!


Sean

Thanks, just wait till you see Skyman's photos. He also has a 4805 but he has a better camera.

As for your question. The Do-able has a higher gain than BOC. Also, as Skyman posted earlier, no need to stretch, staple, glue, etc. Just H&E!
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post #9 of 1167
12/14/05 at 1:17pm
I used the french cleat method pictured here:



My entire front wall is treated with Black linacoustic for sound and covered with black speaker grill cloth. I floated the screen off the wall about 1 3/4" thereby eliminating the need for a black frame.

Here are some links to other successful do-able threads. Some current and others from the past:

http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...28#post6719028
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0&page=1&pp=30
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=593476
http://members.fortunecity.com/gambitx/
http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...e&pagenumber=1
http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/s...hreadid=406441
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=580174
-j

____________________________________________________________ _____

Help get Do-able into all US HD stores. SKU# 174278. Contact your local HD management first, then call HD HQ:1-800-553-3199 (7), make a product request and provide your store's #.
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post #10 of 1167
12/14/05 at 1:23pm
skyman00...

you have PM.

I did see your french cleat method on another thread. My entire front wall is painted a flat black, but I might put a black frame around the Do-able just to finish it off.
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post #11 of 1167
12/14/05 at 2:13pm
The wife and I watched The Island last night:



Frame tutorial by Mission313 here:
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=593859
Thanks Mission!

Another possible hanging solution:
http://www.myhometheater.homestead.com/screen.html
-j
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post #12 of 1167
12/14/05 at 2:15pm
Quick tip:
Cutting Dimensions(for HD):

16:9 AR, 49" X 87" (100" diag).
4:3 AR, 49" X 65".
2.35:1 AR, cut it on the horizontal 41" X 97".
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post #13 of 1167
12/14/05 at 3:13pm
[quote=MaximAvs]skyman00...
you have PM.
QUOTE]

Thanks Sean, I look forward to getting it. -j
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post #14 of 1167
12/15/05 at 12:32pm
Anybody know what the gain on that is?
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post #15 of 1167
12/15/05 at 12:36pm
Thread Starter 
I don't have the exact gain, but I think it's safe enough to say that it is higher than black out cloth (BOC).

Watched War of the Worlds last night on it and it was awesome.
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post #16 of 1167
12/15/05 at 12:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rahl View Post

I don't have the exact gain, but I think it's safe enough to say that it is higher than black out cloth (BOC).

Watched War of the Worlds last night on it and it was awesome.

THANKS! I'm totally not a DIY'r. Don't have the tools nor space to fabricate the frame. What if I were to have HD cut the board, say , 4" longer vertically and horizontally to give an extra 2" on all sides and wrap some border on there. Think that would work? If so, what kind of material would be suggested?
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post #17 of 1167
12/15/05 at 12:46pm
Thread Starter 
Me personally; I would build a seperate frame. Follow what I did and you should be set. You can even have Home depot cut those for you. Then all you have to do is wrap them in fabric and mount them around the board.

Screwing the actual board to the wall might, and I say might, cause the surface to crack a bit.

No matter how you do it though, I would recommend black velvet. It absorbs any light.
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post #18 of 1167
12/15/05 at 1:24pm
I really don't know the exact gain.
All I know is that I'm very happy with what I see.
As are the 3 other HT owners that I helped.

EDIT: pjvirgin- gain of Do-able has been measured to be 1.13
HTH, -j
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post #19 of 1167
12/15/05 at 2:53pm
Maybe not the right place but, does anyone have any ideas how to stand this off the wall by a few inches without blocking light behind it? I want to do some bias lighting and if I secure it down at the corners the bias lighthing will have big shadows from each corner...
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post #20 of 1167
12/15/05 at 3:16pm
h
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post #21 of 1167
12/15/05 at 3:28pm
I was thinking french cleats but how close do they have to come to the edges to work well? Don't you risk the edge of yoru screen warping if you don't extend them pretty much the whole way? If they get clsoe enough to the edge they will screw with the lighting also....
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post #22 of 1167
12/15/05 at 3:55pm
Hey Rahl, Skyman,

Almost set to get my board and frame material. I'll use flat black paint I think as opposed to velvet... should work out about the same I am guessing. Question on that.. if the light of the projector hits the screen area only, then why do we need the black frame, and why is there a concern with how much light it absorbs?

Anyway, how did you (Skyman) put the cleats on the screen back? If it's only 1/4" thick, that doesn't leave a lot of wood for a screw to grab in to. Does wood glue work well enough to hold the weight of the screen? If so, how long to dry before putting it on the wall?

Thanks.
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post #23 of 1167
12/15/05 at 5:44pm
I can't seem to find this at any home depots near me. I'm in Massachusetts. HD sais this doesn't seem like a product they sell in New England. DAMN HD!!!
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post #24 of 1167
12/15/05 at 8:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Devedander View Post

Maybe not the right place but, does anyone have any ideas how to stand this off the wall by a few inches without blocking light behind it? I want to do some bias lighting and if I secure it down at the corners the bias lighthing will have big shadows from each corner...

Deve-
Not quite sure of your description. Could you provide a drawing/diagram that I could look at? That would be most helpful.
My cleats ended about 9" inside from each end.

[quote=bidzer]I can't seem to find this at any home depots near me. I'm in Massachusetts. HD sais this doesn't seem like a product they sell in New England. DAMN HD!!![quote]

Bidzer-
From what I've gathered, the eastern HDs don't sell Do-able. Sorry this doesn't help you eastern guys. Search this forum for Durotherm or Polywall for a non-paint solution for you guys. There are plenty of threads for these 2 products!

[quote=buckman1] I'll use flat black paint I think as opposed to velvet... should work out about the same I am guessing. Question on that.. if the light of the projector hits the screen area only[quote]

Buckman-
I would highly recommend Rahl's suggestion of a velvet wrapped frame. Velvet "sucks" light very well; flat black paint doesn't do as well. You will have "overspray" that you will need to deal with. We all do. You'll see it and understand why once you're up and running.

I secured my do-able with small screws(so as not to puncture the front surface; allowed for the depth of 1&1/2" + 1/4") and construction adhesive. Been there for almost 2 yrs, I'll let yu'all know if it falls off.

HTH guys, -j
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post #25 of 1167
12/15/05 at 8:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by buckman1 View Post

Skyman,
If so, how long to dry before putting it on the wall?
Thanks.

PS- I weighted it with my left and right mains for 24 hrs. -j
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post #26 of 1167
12/15/05 at 9:00pm
Thread Starter 
Buckman-

Definitely go with the velvet wrapped frame. I used flat black paint and can still see the light from the overspill of the projector.

Just like Skyman said, you will see it once you get the projector up and going on it.
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post #27 of 1167
12/16/05 at 4:16am
Rahl and Skyman:

Both of your screen shots are awesome, are you just running a component cable or are you using an adapter and running through the M1 input on the projector. it appears you can do it either way?
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post #28 of 1167
12/16/05 at 7:42am
Homer-
I have both, component & DVI/M1. Both look excellent! -j
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post #29 of 1167
12/16/05 at 7:47am
I did see one thread relating to HomeDepot in Londonderry, NH having Do-able, I'll have to call.

I did buy the polywall and I'm thinking of painting it with Silverscreen this weekend. I hope all goes well!!!
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post #30 of 1167
12/16/05 at 8:23am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by homer1963 View Post

Rahl and Skyman:

Both of your screen shots are awesome, are you just running a component cable or are you using an adapter and running through the M1 input on the projector. it appears you can do it either way?

I'm running a component to the component inputs on the 4805. My DVD player is a low budge little Toshiba. (Sold my nice Sony DVD player; idiot )
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