Originally Posted by Redskin
OK, so I am finally moving ahead with the Doable and getting rid of my BOC. My wife bought me a Doable board for fathers day. I am going with the Hangman cleat. So just to make sure, If I get the plywood to put on the back of the board (so the hangman screws don't pop through the front), using Elmers wood glue is enough to afix it to the back of the Doable?
Also, if I am using the 1/2" plywood, plus the hangman, will the top of the screen stick out from the wall too much to worry about? Should I afix something to the bottom so that the screen is not angled downward?
If the size of the Plywood block on the Doable is 20" x 8"...and adequately glued, it will hold up all the combined weight of everything involved with the Screen with no issues
First thing to realize.....the Hangman is extremely "Low Profile' and is NOT all that easy to locate and make a "centered" attachment when the assembly is located 3' in from each of the sides, and 10" - 12" down from the Top minimum. The Wall location should also be a 2-layered affair (Plywood and Hangman)
Also, affixing the hangman to the Doable using every holed filled with 1/2" screws is risky, because those screws...if even one...displaces just the wrong amount of material directly forward, you WILL see a Pimple come up on the "Screen Side", and it is not ever going to be the same for a Board that is supposed to be ready to go...as is. I see that you are at least goin the Plywood route on the Doable...but 1" screws are still not without risk. 3/4" screws with a wide thread...and hand tightened should be perfect. I show 1" screws...but for sure, if used and they are "Bugle Head" Screws as shown, they would not be tightened down Flush. Only "Cleated" down.
So you need to add 3/8" or 1/2' Plywood under the Hangman. And that a good thing to do on the "Wall' as well. Besides, the additional "Footprint" for structural support the larger "Plate / Block" of Plywood supplies also brings the Screen out from the wall a small distance. This allows for a bunch of freedom in designing your Trim, Rope Lighting (?), of just your having a neat "Floating Screen Effect". But most of all, you won't have fits getting the screen placed correctly, and it's adjust ability is far more easy under the prescibed mounting set-up.
OK. Let's look at what needs to be done.
Your Gluing the Plywood onto the wall by putting a nice "Drop' of glue between the Plywood and the Drywall wherever a Screw will penetrate.
Place the Plywood Block up on the wall at it's desired location, leveled, and then marked out for re-locating.
Then simply place the Hangman onto the Plywood, centered. Run the Screws through the Plywood to make holes. Apply the liberal Drop of Glue to each Hole. Place the Plywood back onto the wall, apply the Hangman bracket, and run the screws through the Bracket/Wood/Drywall combo. Only drive the screws in 95% of the way...then Hand Tighten them.
The additional footprint of the Plywood, combined with point-source Glue, will hold up to anything....even if the needed placement falls between Studs. If the Hangman / Block assembly ever has to come down, removing the screws any scraper-lifting the block free is all that it would take, and the spots of paper pulled off will/can be easily finished out.
The key here is to secure the Plywood to the Doable in the strongest manner possible. So it's really just a "shorter screw" example of the 1st example above.
As for the potential of having a bottom-inward "pitch" on the Screen, it will happen, especially the higher on the Screen's "behind" that you place the Hangman. and high you want it, because it's a world easier to hang when the Hangman bracket is closer to the Top, than ...say....1/3 down from the Top.
Easy fix for "Inward Pitch". Cut 4 pieces of the 1/2" Plywood 12" x 3", Glue two pieces together (x2) and then using the same "Spot glue w/Screw" method, place each 1" Block at each bottom Corner, but far enough in that the screen will appear suspended.
There it is....get'er dun.