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The Official Untreated Do-able Only Thread - Page 39

post #1141 of 1167
11/2/10 at 2:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mizedog View Post

I've got my Viewsonic Pro 8100 mounted overhead, and shooting the Do Able screen. The screen is just sitting nearly vertical on top of the old speakers I'm using. However, I bought four plinth blocks and some 1.25" diameter poplar dowell rod to make some stand-off mounts for the screen. The plinth blocks are MDF with an ogee edge pressed into three sides. I drilled wholes using the drill press on my Shopsmith and cut notches in the side of the dowels with my chop saw. The notches/grooves on the lower mounts are only about 1/8-1/4 inch deep. The ones in the top dowels are 3/4" deep. This will allow the mounts to be screwed to the wall, push the screen out about 3" from the wall to clear the crawl space door. Just like a window pain installs by sliding the top edge in and up, then resting is down in the track, the mounts will do the same and only intrude on the screen's front surface 1/4" at most.
So far, though, the WAF is high for this screen. I'll trim the ends off to a proper 19:9 ratio which should give me about 98" diagonally. Not bad for a 13'x17' room.



It's easy for me to lift off and place on the floor leaning against the wall. This allows me to get to the crawl space easily.

Hi, I have the Pro8100 also and as curious about how you like it on this screen? Thanx

I had a different pj prior and have a painted BOC screen of n 7.8 and now want a brighter image so I can still use the eco mode.
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post #1142 of 1167
11/3/10 at 2:00pm
So far so good. The black levels could be better, but I have not calibrated my pj. I just plugged it, did the firmware update, and boom - great picture. I see just slight hot spot in the center of the screen. It appears more of a shimmer/sparkle of color brighter than the rest of the screen, but it's only apparent during very white, bright scenes - like a cloudy sky.

Overall, not bad at all. It's a pain to lift off the mounts to get to the crawl space. I know I'll eventually have to go with a lighter fabric set up. For now, it's definitely worth the money and got my HT up an running!
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post #1143 of 1167
11/6/10 at 5:46pm
This is my 100" diag. screen made by do-able. My house is rented so no hanging, drilling. I used a 2x4 and clamped it on the mantel over the fire place. Placed the chair in case my boys might knock it over. Over the cost of everything about $100. The boarder I got from syfabric. It's black plush triple velvet.


Pics:

2x4 clamped on mantel



Finished screen.






Haven't bought the PJ yet
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post #1144 of 1167
11/24/10 at 6:37pm
I have a question, sorry if it wasn't answered previously.


Is do-able board available in Toronto, Canada? If not, does anyone know of an equivalent that is?
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post #1145 of 1167
11/24/10 at 10:36pm
I don't think so - only west of the rockies and south of the border.
We can get it in Alberta - but only in 2'x4' sheets.
I went to Montana to get mine.
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post #1146 of 1167
11/25/10 at 5:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trax416 View Post

I have a question, sorry if it wasn't answered previously.


Is do-able board available in Toronto, Canada? If not, does anyone know of an equivalent that is?


Best comparison / substitute would be Sintra / Comtex. That's a Expanded PVC (white) board. But it costs more than Doable.
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post #1147 of 1167
1/6/11 at 10:05pm
i just god mdf 4x8 #174278 from HD. id rather not use any kind of drilling or screwing to attach to wall. what is this french cleat method i heard?

i mean im ok with drilling or whatever the wall but not the panel.
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post #1148 of 1167
1/7/11 at 6:55am
A French Cleat is two opposing angles that lock together. You can make one by ripping a 45 degree angle through a 1" x 6" x 4' piece of Poplar, then screwing one half on the wall with the angle pointing up/out, and the other half on the MDF with the pointy end out and down, or buy one called "Hang Man" at Home Depot.

You can use Glue to attach the Cleat to the MDF (...I thought this was a Doable thread...?) but I'd suggest you pre-drill shallow holes into the MDF (..and through the 1"x...) and hand tighten 1" screws through both materials so as to help support the Board well.

Do an AVS Google Search on "French Cleat".
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post #1149 of 1167
1/7/11 at 6:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ooms View Post

i just god mdf 4x8 #174278 from HD. id rather not use any kind of drilling or screwing to attach to wall. what is this french cleat method i heard?

i mean im ok with drilling or whatever the wall but not the panel.

An easier method is to use mirror clips.
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post #1150 of 1167
1/7/11 at 11:39pm
Is there a rule of thumb to determine the width of the border? I'm going to be making a 92" screen out of this stuff but I'm kind of lost on how wide the borders should be.. is 2" wide enough? If so the 92" size would allow me to cut the Do-Able board with an extra 2" all the way around to attach the frame right to the board, but is this safe/been done, or will the Do-Able board crack easily trying to screw into it near the edges? Also, what type of material should be used to construct the frame?
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post #1151 of 1167
1/8/11 at 5:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by RockHardMcNasty View Post

Is there a rule of thumb to determine the width of the border? I'm going to be making a 92" screen out of this stuff but I'm kind of lost on how wide the borders should be.. is 2" wide enough? If so the 92" size would allow me to cut the Do-Able board with an extra 2" all the way around to attach the frame right to the board, but is this safe/been done, or will the Do-Able board crack easily trying to screw into it near the edges? Also, what type of material should be used to construct the frame?

What you suggest is very "do-able". I'd suggest you use the boarder to screw the Do-able directly to the wall, using a minimum of screws, then overlay the trim.

Simple MDF Baseboard Trim wrapped in Black Velvet is an excellent choice. The MDF is easy to work with, comes in a 3.25" wide size you do NOT have to rip. 3.25" is not too big, and the width of the Black Surround will both compliment your screen's appearance and help a great deal in improving the perceived Black Levels on Screen.

The 2" Do-able under-lap is more than sufficient to support the 3.25" Trim, and you can set the trim in place using 1" Finish Nails driven through the Fabric/Trim and directly into the Do-able.

As a easy but lessor quality alternative, there are several 2" (self adhesive) Black Felt tapes available,
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...VF5HTRWYC1PTXG

.... but you'll have to buy a whole roll and almost spend every bit as much as for such as you would MDF & Velvet, but it would not look nearly as good.

Black Velvet source. Best and least expensive on the Web.

http://www.syfabrics.com/View.aspx/P...Velvet/681/264

Tutorial:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=865218
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post #1152 of 1167
1/15/11 at 12:34am
Wow wow wow, didn't realize getting into Front Projection was so cheap!

I ordered a cheap projector, i will upgrade in a little while, was planning on using a primed wall until i found this thread, woot!

Has anyone tried staining the trim? I was thinking of just staining or spray painting it black instead of looking for some fabric.
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post #1153 of 1167
1/26/11 at 8:59pm
At some point during transport the Doable board got a mark on it. Is there something I can use, like rubbing alcohol or a cleaning solution, to try to get rid of it without damaging it? And if that doesn't work maybe a paint marker or something?

Thanks
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post #1154 of 1167
1/27/11 at 10:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by David H. View Post

At some point during transport the Doable board got a mark on it. Is there something I can use, like rubbing alcohol or a cleaning solution, to try to get rid of it without damaging it? And if that doesn't work maybe a paint marker or something?

Thanks

I had the same thing occur although mine was from getting the board around the corner in the house. I used a mr clean magic eraser (dampened with water) to clean my doable board. It worked without causing any damage.

Mike
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post #1155 of 1167
1/28/11 at 5:28pm
Yo Mike, thanks for the tip about the Magic Eraser. It worked like a charm and the board is now back to its unblemished state.

It's pretty synchronistic because I just moved into a new place and I saw those erasers in the cupboard when I was moving in. It's pretty sweet that I didn't even have to go and buy any!
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post #1156 of 1167
1/28/11 at 6:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by David H. View Post

Yo Mike, thanks for the tip about the Magic Eraser. It worked like a charm and the board is now back to its unblemished state.

It's pretty synchronistic because I just moved into a new place and I saw those erasers in the cupboard when I was moving in. It's pretty sweet that I didn't even have to go and buy any!

Kinda spooky, actually.
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post #1157 of 1167
3/2/11 at 6:10pm
Hi Guys,
I have been a member of this forum for a long time but never visited this thread until two weeks ago. (I finally decided to upgrade our home theater from a flat panel to projector).

I just stumbled upon this thread on another community. Thanks to member Yakuja from community MediaSmartServer.net (Thank you!).

So, here are some notes from my build:

Material:
1. I found a board with the same SKU# (174-278) but different model#(1707208) at my local HD (Redmond, WA). I was completely confused as the tag says it is from Boise Cascades (not Do-Able). HD website finds the original model number and claims the boards are available at the store but I could not find it in any of the three HS stores I visited.
According to the customer service, HD will never have two separate products under one SKU (even if the model is different unless they are differen colors). After bit of deliberation, I ended up buying the board.
(Note: HD guys were very helpful in cutting the board. The height is already 49" so no need to to get the height adjusted. By the time I checked out and loaded the board in the truck, somehow the board got scratched I ended up buying another one! Take a blanket guys; see another note below).
2. From the get-go, I decided to hang the board with the mirror hanging clips rather than french cleat. I found the clips in Hardware isle at HD under the "hard to find items". (Note: I ended up buying 8 clips in two trips to make the screen flat). Like the original post, I painted the clips white (Rustoleum White spray paint). I also bought bunch of nylon spacers. BOM picture attached.
3. I was most confused about the frame. I am sure velvet will look nice but I was not sure how will I mount the frame without damaging the cloth. I decided to paint it with flat black paint rather than velvet. I found a pre-painted 1"x2.5" mdf trim in the moulding section. This saved me the priming and the black came out really nice in one coat. Again HD guys were very nice and cut the moulding for me. Only caution is that you will need to adjust for dimensions if you are using one of the threads about 1x3 (you will end up with 1" extra on the short cuts). I painted the moulding with flat black and left it to dry overnight.

Installation -
1. When I went to get the board, it was snowing in my area. By the time I reached home, the board was all deformed (wavy)! I laid the board flat on the floor and spread a blanket on top of the board. Finally, I loaded it with bunch of old manuals and IT books By morning the board was relatively flat.
2. I used 8 mirror clips to hang the board (with four clips the board was visibly bulging in places).
3. I pre-drilled the moulding every 6" (maybe an overkill) and mounted the trim around the board (butt end). BTW, I used #6 1 1/2" wood screws for all installation.
4. Finally I touched the screws on the moulding with black flat paint. Final result is attached as well.

Only change I need to do is to adjust the lower moulding for the mirror clips. I installed the top trim and sides first. The mirror clips push the frame out by 1/16" of an inch. I dont see anything wrong with the picture (but I am not an expert). My family loves the setup! Thanks to you guys!!
LL
LL
LL
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post #1158 of 1167
3/9/11 at 12:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HE_Net_Guy View Post

Hi Guys,
I have been a member of this forum for a long time but never visited this thread until two weeks ago. (I finally decided to upgrade our home theater from a flat panel to projector).

I just stumbled upon this thread on another community. Thanks to member Yakuja from community MediaSmartServer.net (Thank you!).

So, here are some notes from my build:

Material:
1. I found a board with the same SKU# (174-278) but different model#(1707208) at my local HD (Redmond, WA). I was completely confused as the tag says it is from Boise Cascades (not Do-Able). HD website finds the original model number and claims the boards are available at the store but I could not find it in any of the three HS stores I visited.
According to the customer service, HD will never have two separate products under one SKU (even if the model is different unless they are differen colors). After bit of deliberation, I ended up buying the board.
(Note: HD guys were very helpful in cutting the board. The height is already 49" so no need to to get the height adjusted. By the time I checked out and loaded the board in the truck, somehow the board got scratched I ended up buying another one! Take a blanket guys; see another note below).
2. From the get-go, I decided to hang the board with the mirror hanging clips rather than french cleat. I found the clips in Hardware isle at HD under the "hard to find items". (Note: I ended up buying 8 clips in two trips to make the screen flat). Like the original post, I painted the clips white (Rustoleum White spray paint). I also bought bunch of nylon spacers. BOM picture attached.
3. I was most confused about the frame. I am sure velvet will look nice but I was not sure how will I mount the frame without damaging the cloth. I decided to paint it with flat black paint rather than velvet. I found a pre-painted 1"x2.5" mdf trim in the moulding section. This saved me the priming and the black came out really nice in one coat. Again HD guys were very nice and cut the moulding for me. Only caution is that you will need to adjust for dimensions if you are using one of the threads about 1x3 (you will end up with 1" extra on the short cuts). I painted the moulding with flat black and left it to dry overnight.

Installation -
1. When I went to get the board, it was snowing in my area. By the time I reached home, the board was all deformed (wavy)! I laid the board flat on the floor and spread a blanket on top of the board. Finally, I loaded it with bunch of old manuals and IT books By morning the board was relatively flat.
2. I used 8 mirror clips to hang the board (with four clips the board was visibly bulging in places).
3. I pre-drilled the moulding every 6" (maybe an overkill) and mounted the trim around the board (butt end). BTW, I used #6 1 1/2" wood screws for all installation.
4. Finally I touched the screws on the moulding with black flat paint. Final result is attached as well.

Only change I need to do is to adjust the lower moulding for the mirror clips. I installed the top trim and sides first. The mirror clips push the frame out by 1/16" of an inch. I dont see anything wrong with the picture (but I am not an expert). My family loves the setup! Thanks to you guys!!

sounds similar to how I did it. and yes, the Boise Cascade board is the same thing.... they bought out Do-able a few years ago
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post #1159 of 1167
3/11/11 at 9:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

sounds similar to how I did it. and yes, the Boise Cascade board is the same thing.... they bought out Do-able a few years ago


X2
I bought the Boise Cascade labelled board as well. Works great. I did notice some of the "grain" or texture of the board when watching 2001: A Space Odyssey. There are many panning shots where the camera is "flying" throught space looking at a very white space ship/station. Because the white image was moving across the screen, and the texture wasn't, it distracted me a little. However, I can' it doesn't seem any more pronounced that the Seymour AT fabric sample I have. My eyes while sitting in the front row are only 9-10 feet from the screen, though. I imagine this effect wouldn't be an issue in the back row.

Oh, I scratched mine beyond repare when I accidentally dropped a suit case on the screen when the screen was on the couch. I took it off to get to the crawl space and mindlessly through the suit case out of the crawl space. The wheel hit the screen. Mr. Clean's Magic Spounge helped, but didn't get the black plastic out of the deep scratches. This is far more distracting that the normal texture of the screen. At least I can replace it cheaply if I don't go with the Seymour AT fabric.
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post #1160 of 1167
7/31/11 at 6:34pm
32 lbs is pretty heavy, I am thinking of combining 3 boards into one 8*12 folding screen.
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post #1161 of 1167
7/31/11 at 9:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yerbolat View Post
32 lbs is pretty heavy, I am thinking of combining 3 boards into one 8*12 folding screen.
Above = issue

SINTRA = answer
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post #1162 of 1167
10/18/11 at 6:50am
i just bought a sheet of this wonderful stuff from home depot and it is an awesome investment without springing for an actual screen at this time. my wife loves it too. i didn't do the fancy border as some have done even though it would look nicer. i had them cut it for me but i think it is 2 inches wider than it should be. must have done my measurements wrong. 89x49 is what i had it cut to. oh well. the picture looks nice even though for my setup with ambient light a grey screen would work better but this will do for now. thank you guys for this thread. i almost bought a da-lite screen but this saved me til i can afford to get a good screen.
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post #1163 of 1167
10/27/11 at 12:32pm
I bought a sheet of this after reading about it on AVSforum several years ago. It has been an amazingly low cost solution for me. I am now about to buy either the Optoma HD33 or the Epson 3010, and I will likely want a larger screen...so my trusty 95" Do-Able screen may retire. But what an amazing value for the little expense (in both money and time).

Admittedly, I have been using a 720p projector in a totally dark room, but people have always been amazed at the quality of the picture...maybe even more amazed are the people who actually own a low end screen and are telling themselves that it looks just as good.

Not sure what my next move is, but whatever I do, I feel like this screen has been an awesome value.
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post #1164 of 1167
11/17/11 at 10:31am
Does anyone know any way to get this on the east coast home depots?
Can it be ordered? Thanks!
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post #1165 of 1167
5/7/12 at 9:18am
from a 4x8 piece of doable board, what would the be the maximum measurement for a cinemascope screen that utilize most of the board up to 93 inches or so?
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post #1166 of 1167
5/7/12 at 11:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by WormInfested View Post

from a 4x8 piece of doable board, what would the be the maximum measurement for a cinemascope screen that utilize most of the board up to 93 inches or so?

Using this information from the first page of the thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by skyman00 View Post

Quick tip:
Cutting Dimensions(for HD):
16:9 AR, 49" X 87" (100" diag).
4:3 AR, 49" X 65".
2.35:1 AR, cut it on the horizontal 41" X 97".

I get the diagonal would be approximately 105" with a 2.35:1 ratio. If you are using most of the board, spend some time at your local HD to make sure you get one as clean as possible (pull them down and look at each from different angles). My piece had a blemish (maybe it was a sticker or imprint of a sticker???) near one corner, but since I was cutting for 16:9 and only 7feet diagonal I cut that section off.

I've been using my do-able screen now for about five years. It was the best $50 I ever spent (about $35 to build a frame for it).
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post #1167 of 1167
5/7/12 at 7:28pm
Anyone found the Boise Cascade board east of the Mississippi ?
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