Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 398

Rgr that. Now I'm looking at Definitive Technology ProMonitor 800 speakers, but its driver is a bit smaller. Decisions, decisions.

The rti4's will school the the pro monitor 800's

I was all fixed at settling on the RTs, but then I looked at their weight, LoL. About double in weight as the Monitor 30s, I doubt I'll be able to hang these easily. I never have any luck at finding a stud in any apartment I'm staying in.

Research indicates
R50= 40lbs shipping weight-no true weight
Monitor 60=35lbs shipped-true 31lbs
Monitor 70=51lbs-47lbs actual.

Hate to post stats but thought this may be of interest. Good luck!!

Drywall anchors will do the trick if you can't find stud. Just make sure to get quality ones

[quote=thobel;21258930]Need some Advice on Speakers for a HTPC

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I'm looking at the following

Polk Audio Monitor70 Series II Floorstanding Loudspeaker (Black)

Polk Audio CS2 Series II Center Channel Speaker (Black)

Polk Audio PSW Series PSW505 12" Powered Subwoofer

Polk Audio Monitor40 Series II Two-Way Bookshelf Loudspeaker (Black)

I currently have ONKYO HT-S3300 Home Theater in a Box

I was wondering:

a) What do you think about the choices
b) Can The Onkyo Reciever power the speakers/Sub
c) Feel free to offer any additional advice


a) Excellent value IMHO
b) Do you listen to your system at high levels?
The speakers that came with this system are rated @ 6ohms and the receiver lists output @ 110wpc (I would suspect below 50% all channels driven). Monitors @ 8ohms puts you down to 85-ish watts(again less than 50% all channels driven). Driving the unit hard may result in clipping and damage to the speakers could occur.
c)Hope this helps.

The sub out on this unit looks as if it would require copper speaker wire.

[quote=BIG INJUN CHIEF;21259290]
Would I be better off getting a new reciever if so any suggestions for a Midrange not looking to spend 2k on a reciever somthing closer to 500-600 Max.

I don't play it too loud (I live in an apartment in nyc)

As a side note the reason I'm looking to upgrade is while playing movies/Rips from my HTPC at night I have an issue where The voices are low and the "action" is loud causing me to constantly adjust the sound before the neighbors go ape shi* How would you rat ethe existing system and any advice on how to resolve the Unbalanced volume (best I can describe)

I purchased a re-certified Yamaha RX-667 to run in a basement system for under $300 and at moderate volume I am was very pleased. It is equipped with YPAO (room correction). May care for the volume issue. I ran a set-up that you intend to purchase and found it capable (still waiting for the psw505 to go on sale). I added a separate amp to power the 70's because I typically listen to music quite loud. This system was intended as a budget system (still is to a certain extent) but my wife and kids would occasionally become cranky, funny when your kid asks you to turn the music down. You can purchase a very high quality receiver for well under a grand. I toyed with a Maratnz 6005 (within your range). I would check accessories4less.com. Plenty of options ~$500-$600.

There are quite a few places to get a good receiver marked down. Newegg continuously runs shocker deals on electronics. I just got the new RX-v671 for $329 (previously $549). It's completely sold out at Newegg now, but if you sign up you can probably catch a deal like that in the next couple of weeks.

They also have a recertified v667 in stock, I believe. Btw, some receivers allow for you to change the setting of your speaker resistance rating. At least the v671 can, but probably not my old sony rcvr. My new rcvr was defaulted to 8ohms, but could be changed to 6.

Big Injun,

Jr.com has your polk 505 sub on sale right now. No need to wait!
http://www.jr.com/m/record.mhtml?R=pok_psw505

Afro GT,(thats awesome)
Thank you! I have been on the fence between the JR deal and the Klip RW-12D (black friday deal)for a bit. My ole lady loves the dual sub 12's in the main HT area but her motivation is not pure. She just wants me to stop the music and move the party to the basement.

Sorry should have explained she has been on me to purchase the RW-12D.

Setting up a new system for first time in 20 years and need speaker advice.

I have

TSi400 pair for front
RC85i planned for sides/rear (pretty much need to be in wall)
PSW111 sub (not great, but was free)

Onyko TX-NR709 receiver

Need a good center channel - would a CSI A4 be a good match? Was looking at a CS20, but it won't fit. Any other good options?

Does it matter much if the RC85i are in the ceiling (my wife's preference)? Are they good enough for sides/rears? I'm hoping that in wall speakers have gotten better over the years.

I can switch out the RC85i speakers if not a good choice, but don't have an option to change the TSi400s or the sub ( for now)

Setup going in a very open great room where the LR portion is about 20x28 with 10 foot ceilings, to be used mainly for TV and movies, but want decent sound for music.

I know video well, but am clueless about audio. Thoughts/comments/advice greatly appreciated.

^well I would sell the psw111 as it will do nothing in your large room open room so you can put money to a more powerful and larger subwoofer. And in your large open room make room for the cs20 and you will have a great system

Thanks, but no way to make room for CS20, short of divorce. It must go in a Sony TV stand that just does afford the height required. How close/ good is the CSI A4?

What wold you suggest for the sub?

I recently upgraded from a CS2 to a CS20 and am quite pleased with its superior performance. I had been concerned about a possible mismatch with our M70's but they sound great together. The CS2 seemed to fall flat on female voices. There are some here who proclaim that the CS2 and CS20 are identical but in reality it is substantially better.

I messed up my original measurements - I have 8.25 inches high to work with, so the CS20 should fit!

The 85I's can be mounted in the ceiling.

Just got a steal deal on Black Friday....

Pioneer 1101 Reciever
RTI 12 * 2
Center - CSi3
Surrounds - FXi5

I am using RC85i - 2 fronts and 2 rears and CS20 for center. My family room is around 15x13 with 8-12 ceiling and I am very pleased with them, so far I have spent $450 on 5 speakers, looking to setup a subwoofer ($200) to complete the system. Even without a sub they sound better and more powerful than the towers HTIB I used to have. The Denon amp I am using allows sound to play evenly on all speakers and music is so much better as it does fill the room evenly.

Sold my Polk Monitor 30's and CS1 and now I am waiting for my RTi4's and CSi3 center to replace them.

I am keeping my RM6751's as surrounds and will continue to use the subwoofer that came with the RM6750 5.1 system originally. It may not be the best but it fills my apartment nicely with no neighbor complaints (unlike my short period of time with the Polk PSW12) so it will stay until I get a DiY subwoofer in march.

I hope this is the place I've been searching for!

This is my first HT in life, thanks too black friday deals...

Here in Brazil we don't have such good deals like in US.

My room is 10 x 14 feet (yes, it's a very tiny room)

I have a Panasonic Plasma TH-P50V20B (it's big for the room but I love it!)

Just bought:

Polk RM-95 and an Onkyo TX-NR609

1 - But, as it is my first HT I don't know which wires to buy to connect the polks to the receiver. Wires and other things needed...

2 - The subwoofer I didn't buy yet, and I was planning to go with a PSW110 or PSW111. Any other suggestion about $150 would be appreciated.

Looking to setup a 5.1 system with all speakers in the wall.

Looking at the Polk 625RT for fronts and surrounds.. and the Polk 255C-RT for the center speaker..

Can anyone provide some experience with these?
Going to be mostly using them for TV/Movies...

How do these compare with other Polks around the same price range or the monoprice in wall speakers?

Thanks!

You can use regular electric power wire ("zip cord" or extension cord wire) for your speakers. 16-18 gauge is adequate for short wire runs (2 meters or so) or use 14 gauge or even 12 gauge for longer runs.

I believe the 505 is a better sub than the 110 or 111 (I'm not really sure) and it sells here in the US for $200 when on sale. In general, the more you spend on a sub the better it will sound. Under $200 usually does not sound so good.

16 gauge wire is good for 10+ meters.

Thank you so much for the answers. Just found those kind of wires
to buy here in Brazil.

I think I'll wait a little more time to buy the subwoofer. And I found the 505
for $170 at amazon. First I'll set the other parts as soon as they arrive.

And I hope that this combination be good enough to my ears!

I am relatively new to the home theatre game, and now find myself plunging head first. Long story short is I will have the following setup:
Reciever: Onkyo Tx-NR609
Front LR: Monitor 70
Center: CS2
Surrounds: Monitor 60
Sub: BIC F12

My question or concern is using the tx-NR609 to power the monitor 60 and 70.

Will the Tx-NR609 be able to appropriately power the speakers in this arrangement? My untrained eye believes it will be adequate. I have included the specs from onkyo below.
Also what is the recommended placement of the floorstanding surrounds in a 5.1 configuration. I have read that the tweeter should be above ear level, however with floorstanding i don't see that as possible. Any suggestions?

Power Output
Front L/R
110 W + 110 W (8 ohms, 20 Hz-20 kHz,
0.08%, 2 channels driven, FTC)
130 W + 130 W (6 ohms, 1 kHz, 0.1%,
2 channels driven, FTC)
Center
110 W (8 ohms, 20 Hz-20 kHz,
0.08%, 2 channels driven, FTC)
130 W (6 ohms, 1 kHz, 0.1%,
2 channels driven, FTC)
Surround L/R
110 W + 110 W (8 ohms, 20 Hz-20 kHz,
0.08%, 2 channels driven, FTC)
130 W + 130 W (6 ohms, 1 kHz, 0.1%,
2 channels driven, FTC)
Surround Back L/R
110 W + 110 W (8 ohms, 20 Hz-20 kHz,
0.08%, 2 channels driven, FTC)
130 W + 130 W (6 ohms, 1 kHz, 0.1%,
2 channels driven, FTC)
Dynamic Power
250 W (3 ohms, 1 ch)
220 W (4 ohms, 1 ch)
130 W (8 ohms, 1 ch)
THD (Total Harmonic Distortion)
0.08% (20 Hz-20 kHz, Half power)
Damping Factor
60 (Front, 1 kHz, 8 ohms)
Input Sensitivity and Impedance
200 mV/47 k-ohms (Line)
2.5mV/47 k-ohms (Phono MM)
Rated RCA Output Level and Impedance
200 mV/2.2 k-ohms (Pre out)
Maximum RCA Output Level and Impedance
4.6 V/470 ohms (Pre out)
Phono Overload
70 mV (MM, 1 kHz, 0.5%)
Frequency Response
5 Hz-100 kHz/+1 dB, -3 dB (Direct Mode)
Tone Control
±10 dB, 50 Hz (Bass)
±10 dB, 20 kHz (Treble)
Signal-to-Noise Ratio
106 dB (Line, IHF-A)
80 dB (Phono MM, IHF-A)
Speaker Impedance
4 ohms–16 ohms or 6 ohms-16 ohms

Power Supply
AC 120 V~, 60 Hz
Power Consumption
6.3 A
Dimensions (W x H x D)
17 1/8" x 6 7/8" x 14 15/16" (435 x 174 x 379 mm)
Weight
26.9 lbs (12.2 kg)

Thanks for your inputs.

I would rather buy the step up model with preouts, I think you muy be a little underpowered with towers all around and you won't be able to add a external amp with the 609.

The 609 will do just fine.

I would suggest that it all depends upon your definition of appropriately driven. The concern voiced with respect to a model with pre-outs revolves around the all channels driven scenario. The specs listed for the 609 report receiver output with 2 channels driven. I would suspect this is fine for all channels but the mains. Running the Onkyo @ 5 channels may result in real world delivery of less than 50% of the stated 110 watts. At higher volumes this may stress the 609 and result in sound degradation and the Onkyo could go into protect mode or damage your speakers. Many have chosen (me included) to drive the mains with an external amp. It has been said this allows the receiver to operate under less stressful conditions and a fuller more pleasing sound may result.

I received my CS400i today and installed it over my lunch hour. Adjusted it with YPAO and manually adjusted db level down 5db compared to the older CS100. Pretty good size - a little unnerving having it on top of the plasma.

Next up is to to replace my damaged RM3000 sub/sat combo. The sub is still OK but the surrounds on the satellite drivers have disintegrated. I already have a Velodyne F1200B sub in the front, so not sure what to do with the one in the rear when I buy replacement surround speakers. Originally the rear wiring went to the sub first, then to the satellites. Maybe with the replacements I could just have the right surround going to the sub first?

Below is a link to some updated photos of my apartment mixed home theater room. The only difference is that the CS400i is now on top of the plasma. I was leaning towards Lsi Fx's for surround speakers, but then found my Carver AV-634 wouldn't very much care for the 4-ohm load. A local Polk owner suggested placing the right surround on the side wall just behind the end of the curtains, and the left surround as far left as possible on the upper support over the kitchen 'window' to the living room. Also suggested bipole mode because limited sofa location. I do have a new set of Polk RT1 A1's which I won but I've never installed; I'd like to find a use for them without sacrificing the HT sound. I think the room is too small (161"Wx184"Dx96"H) for a 7.x setup.

http://s808.photobucket.com/albums/zz9/evcass69/HT/
password is PolkXXXX where XXXX is the current calendar year.

The left kitchen opening is open at the top 10", then solid from 10-25.75" below the ceiling. Currently I'm planning to center the left fxi vertically as far left as I can get it. That would place the right edge of the speaker ~97" from the front wall.

The distance between the right wall curtain rod and the ceiling is only 10", which prohibits mounting both the A4 and A6 above it. The curtains stick out about 6" from the wall due to the vertical blinds behind them. I previously adjusted the curtain rod up, further L/R from the patio door, and as close to the blinds as I could get them while still allowing the blinds to function all in an effort to mitigate light seepage from the patio. So the right surround would need to go between the rod end and the rear wall, a distance of 58.5". The minimum distance from the left edge of the right surround to the front wall would be 125", assuming it was right up to the curtain rod.

I'd mount the right rear the same distance from the ceiling as the left. How far should I place it between the curtains and the rear wall? Will it cause problems if I have it too close to the curtain rod end or will leveling the db output resolve that?

Does that seem like the best arrangement? Based upon this overall information, do you think I would get the benefit of the A6's over the A4's, or should I just save some money and get the A4's? Or something else altogether?

Thanks!