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Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 560

post #16771 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG INJUN CHIEF View Post

I built a Bill designed sub and experienced a great deal of room interaction. Buzzing and vibrating. I then played with a riser/isolation pad and it seemed to help. His contention that the riser did nothing feel on deaf ears. After further investigation I reached the conclusion that he was indeed correct and tore my room apart to reconstruct with a more structural stability. He knows his stuff. wink.gif

Yes, he does indeed know his stuff. He's ugly as sin but smart as all get out. He looks eerily similar to Yoda.
Edited by XStanleyX - 2/1/13 at 8:32pm
post #16772 of 18636
tongue.gif
post #16773 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

Yeah, after doing more research I think I'll just take the easy plug and play route. Hopefully I'll run across something locally on audiogon or craigslist for a decent price. Trying to stay away from "new" prices if I can but I'll go there if I have to. Depends on how long it takes me to save in my toy budget.


Hey Stanley, if you're still looking for an amp, I might be able to deal with you on my XPA-3. I found out the warranty's are transferable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

No, it won't. Low frequency wavelengths are from 10 to 60 feet long, and pass though ceilings, floors and walls with impunity unless they're very high mass structures. For that reason there's no such thing as an 'apartment friendly' sub. If the apartment walls, floors and ceiling aren't very high mass bass will pass though them, no matter what the source.

Hey Bill, what about foam type bass traps, would that do anything to reduce the LF's from rattling the upstairs?
post #16774 of 18636
The big problem with bass is that the walls become passive transducers. If you can here bass in your room, the walls, especially in apartments, transfer the sound right into the next room. The lower the bass, the more easily transferred by the wall.
biggrin.gif
post #16775 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

Hey Stanley, if you're still looking for an amp, I might be able to deal with you on my XPA-3. I found out the warranty's are transferable.


I won't be able to pull the trigger on an amp over a few hundred bucks til the middle of February. That is if my son doesn't hit me up for a loan.
post #16776 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by climber07 View Post

The big problem with bass is that the walls become passive transducers. If you can here bass in your room, the walls, especially in apartments, transfer the sound right into the next room. The lower the bass, the more easily transferred by the wall.
biggrin.gif

Did you copy and paste that from one of Bill's posts? Sure looks familiar. biggrin.gif
post #16777 of 18636
Polk Audio Monitor60 Series II Floorstanding Loudspeaker (Black) Each $129.99 until 2/4/13.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290206
post #16778 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

Hey Bill, what about foam type bass traps, would that do anything to reduce the LF's from rattling the upstairs?
Not a thing. BTW, bass traps don't trap bass. They trap midbass,100Hz and higher, mostly higher. They're called bass traps because what we perceive as 'boomy' bass occurs in the region from 100 to 200Hz. For a trap to function effectively below 100Hz it would have to be a few feet thick.
Quote:
The big problem with bass is that the walls become passive transducers. If you can here bass in your room, the walls, especially in apartments, transfer the sound right into the next room. The lower the bass, the more easily transferred by the wall.
A wise one you are. Yes, bass does not actually travel though walls etc. It causes objects to vibrate, and those objects transfer those vibrations to the air on the other side; that air mass in turn also vibrates, passing the sound along to eardrums on the other side. When we say that sound travels through objects it's a major oversimplification of the actual process. But when the vast majority don't grasp the concepts of how sound works even when those concepts are greatly simplified it usually serves no purpose to further confuse the issue with facts.

One common example of how this works is the passing car with a sub cranked, and the one-note booming that you hear. It's not because the sub is making a one-note boom. It's because you're not hearing the sub, you're hearing the sound created by the vibration of the car body, said vibration created by the output of the sub inside the car. Since the car has a single resonant frequency what you mostly hear is that resonant frequency. The rest of the frequencies created by the sub are there, but due to precedence effect you don't hear them, being drowned out by the resonant frequency output of the car body. To a great extent this is duplicated in a room to room scenario. It's not as obvious in adjoining rooms, as there are sound pathways for other frequencies to travel from room to room. It's quite obvious in rooms up or downstairs from the sub, where the resonant frequency of the floor or ceiling will dominate.
post #16779 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus748s View Post

Polk Audio Monitor60 Series II Floorstanding Loudspeaker (Black) Each $129.99 until 2/4/13.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290206

Should i return the R300 and get the M60 instead? Any benefits for this? I just use them as surrounds.
post #16780 of 18636
Two pairs of vintage Monitor 5's posted on Craigslist in my area yesterday for $125/pair, and a pair of RTA 11t's for $175. Any value in pursuing either of those options as an upgrade over my RM6750 HTiB, rather than my original plan of getting a pair of RTi4's or RTi6's? Fry's is currently running a one-week deal on the RTi4 - $129/pr and RTi6 - $199/pr, before shipping. Still planning to upgrade the center to CSi3 or CSi5 either way.

System will most likely be used 75% TV/Movies/gaming, 25% music. Although now that I have room for all my CDs again, and an Airplay-enabled receiver, the music percentage may rise considerably. Primarily classical and jazz.

I've just recently been educating myself about the current and near-current models, and know nothing at all about the vintage stuff, aside from the marketing copy on Polk's website. Any thoughts, experts?
post #16781 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus748s View Post

Polk Audio New Monitor 65T Three-Way Ported Floorstanding Loudspeaker (Cherry) Each $140.00 with promo code EMCXVXW24


Here's the link:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290278&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_sp=&AID=10440897&PID=404255&SID=294804_desktop

Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

Should i return the R300 and get the M60 instead? Any benefits for this? I just use them as surrounds.

For $10 more you can get the new 65T but I'm not sure (wishy-washy disclaimer tongue.gif) that either are necessary for surround duty.
post #16782 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

Should i return the R300 and get the M60 instead? Any benefits for this? I just use them as surrounds.


I've used bookshelves and towers as surrounds, Di/Bipole have given me the best result thus far.
post #16783 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Not a thing. BTW, bass traps don't trap bass. They trap midbass,100Hz and higher, mostly higher. They're called bass traps because what we perceive as 'boomy' bass occurs in the region from 100 to 200Hz. For a trap to function effectively below 100Hz it would have to be a few feet thick.

Thanks! As it is, I have my two Empires boxed up in the garage (upstairs/downstairs duplex) but my RTiA9's can put out some respectable bass on their own, late at night I reduce them from full range so the upstairs won't "feel" the movie I'm watching.

In light of your statement, is it safe to say that I can reduce the overall "sound" by installing bass traps and "L" shaped sheets of foam where the ceiling and wall meet?
post #16784 of 18636
Off topic I suppose, but does anybody know what's going on with Empire? I'm starting to check out sub upgrade possibilities based on what people on here have said they use, and the website says they are still sold out since their Cyber Monday/week sale at the end of November. That seems... excessively long.

I have a smallish LR but am upgrading from RM6750 HTiB to new fronts and center within the next two or three months, and then want to look at a new sub maybe come summertime. Doesn't have to be the best thing out there, as I share a wall and a ceiling with others.

Polk 505 was $189-ish on Amazon the last week or so but has just gone up to $233. I've seen that recommended several times as a good value at $200 or under, for smaller spaces. Newegg lists the Klipsch RW-12D at $300 right now, not sure how that fits into the grand scheme of price vs. quality but they list on Amazon at $370. Any other suggestions for a decent (but not bank-breaking) sub upgrade, and price targets to shoot for?

Should I be concerned that I now spend significant portions of my free time poring over this forum and obsessively checking speaker prices on 5 different websites? smile.gif
post #16785 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by mknecht01 View Post

... rather than my original plan of getting a pair of RTi4's or RTi6's? Fry's is currently running a one-week deal on the RTi4 - $129/pr and RTi6 - $199/pr, before shipping. Still planning to upgrade the center to CSi3 or CSi5 either way.

System will most likely be used 75% TV/Movies/gaming, 25% music. Although now that I have room for all my CDs again, and an Airplay-enabled receiver, the music percentage may rise considerably. Primarily classical and jazz. I've just recently been educating myself about the current and near-current models, and know nothing at all about the vintage stuff, aside from the marketing copy on Polk's website. Any thoughts, experts?

Good price on the Rti6's. You would not be disappointed. I too am not familiar with vintage Polk models, but I do use Rti6's with a Csi3 in the family room for TV viewing and light music with Rti4 surrounds and a smallish Klipsch 8" sub and it all works very well. $200 was NewEgg's closeout price on the Rti6's before they sold out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mknecht01 View Post

I have a smallish LR but am upgrading from RM6750 HTiB to new fronts and center within the next two or three months, and then want to look at a new sub maybe come summertime. Doesn't have to be the best thing out there, as I share a wall and a ceiling with others.

Polk 505 was $189-ish on Amazon the last week or so but has just gone up to $233. I've seen that recommended several times as a good value at $200 or under, for smaller spaces. Newegg lists the Klipsch RW-12D at $300 right now, not sure how that fits into the grand scheme of price vs. quality but they list on Amazon at $370. Any other suggestions for a decent (but not bank-breaking) sub upgrade, and price targets to shoot for?

Should I be concerned that I now spend significant portions of my free time poring over this forum and obsessively checking speaker prices on 5 different websites? smile.gif

Yes, you should be very concerned about the amount of time you spend obsessing over equipment you will not be able to afford for another four months... but we all do it wink.gif

$200 is the typical sale price for the 505, and it does have its fans. Same goes for the RW-12d, which frequently goes on sale for $300. So if you end up with either one you will be in good company. Neither one is a knock-your-socks-off sub, but will do a respectable job.
post #16786 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by mknecht01 View Post

Off topic I suppose, but does anybody know what's going on with Empire? I'm starting to check out sub upgrade possibilities based on what people on here have said they use, and the website says they are still sold out since their Cyber Monday/week sale at the end of November. That seems... excessively long.

I have a smallish LR but am upgrading from RM6750 HTiB to new fronts and center within the next two or three months, and then want to look at a new sub maybe come summertime. Doesn't have to be the best thing out there, as I share a wall and a ceiling with others.

Polk 505 was $189-ish on Amazon the last week or so but has just gone up to $233. I've seen that recommended several times as a good value at $200 or under, for smaller spaces. Newegg lists the Klipsch RW-12D at $300 right now, not sure how that fits into the grand scheme of price vs. quality but they list on Amazon at $370. Any other suggestions for a decent (but not bank-breaking) sub upgrade, and price targets to shoot for?

Should I be concerned that I now spend significant portions of my free time poring over this forum and obsessively checking speaker prices on 5 different websites? smile.gif

Epik has not answered any calls or returned any e-mail inquiries since November. As to why your guess would be as good as any but I would not buy from them if they did open up shop again going by their lack of communication to their customers. If he can do it once he can do it again. To add to Robs comments I have owned both the PSW505 and RW-12d and for their price range they are both a good buy at the sale price. The Klipsch is the better sub of course and well worth the extra $100. With you being in an apartment the Klipsch will certainly get your neighbors attention much easier with it's lower frequencies and higher output. You'll most like end up turning the gain down on the Klipsch to keep your neighbors happy and also keep them from strangling you to death. If you ever plan on moving into a house the Klipsch would be my choice where you can push it to it's full potential.
post #16787 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

Should i return the R300 and get the M60 instead? Any benefits for this? I just use them as surrounds.

Stanley?
post #16788 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

Stanley?

I've never had the floor space to even try floor standing speakers as surrounds. I'm just a big dummy in that department. My RT15i bookshelf speakers are what I use. Sorry but I'm useless in the surround department. If I had to make a choice I'd probably just stick with the R300. Those are better than my bookshelves for sure.
post #16789 of 18636
Used both floor-standers and bookshelves as surrounds. Personally given the surrounds are supposed to be 2-3 feet above your ears when seated, bookshelves fit that mold better. Does that mean you will like em better, only you can tell.

For me I have LSi F/X surrounds right now. But if I were to stumble into another set of LSi 15's I cant say I wouldn't give it a try\ with them as surrounds.

Mostly the surrounds dont produce tons of sound requiring lots of drivers, but if you dont have a sub or have a less than decent one, you can cross floorstanders over lower normally so you would be able to better augment the bass your sub isnt producing.
post #16790 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

Should i return the R300 and get the M60 instead? Any benefits for this? I just use them as surrounds.

I've been using the Monitor 60's as surrounds for a couple of years now, and am quite satisfied with their performance. I listen to a lot of mulit-channel music, and they sound great - especially at 99 bucks a pop in cherry when I purchased them. I saw the R300 series for $100 a pair a few weeks ago. That was a good deal. This week, you can get them at Wal-Mart for $159.98 a pair. The 60's can handle a bit more power, but for a surround application, the R300 speakers should be fine.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Polk-Audio-R300-Floorstanding-Tower-Speaker-Priced-as-a-pair/20449373

Monitor 60 surrounds, JBL E10, back surrounds:
post #16791 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

Should i return the R300 and get the M60 instead? Any benefits for this? I just use them as surrounds.

I'm telling you man, IMO, the FX series surrounds are THEE way to go! I used Monitor 70 as surrounds to my A9's and even had them powered with an amp. The novelty of huge surrounds was awesome at first, but eventually I was not overly impressed with the bass that came from them.

I've had M30's and M40's pulling surround duty also, I was even more impressed with the M40's over the M70's in surround.

Once I tried the FXiA6, I was blown away! The enveloping sound field created by the bipoles is, IMO, unmatched by any bookie or tower.

The FXiA6, IMO, is very powerful, so depending on what you're running up front, the FXiA4 might even be a better match.

If you get the chance to demo some Di/Bipole surrounds, I strongly recommend it.

Best-O-luck in your search for optimum audio
post #16792 of 18636
I agree 100% with Geo. Fxi-A6 is the best choice for surround sound speakers on HT.
post #16793 of 18636
Thank you all for your inputs. I think i will stick with the R300 then. I dont think surrounds would require much either but since the M60 are hard to find now i just wanted to make sure i get your advice. I got the R300 for $100 a pair 2 weeks ago and my setup is M70 fronts, CS2, R300 surrounds, and PSW505 powered by Denon 3311. Btw i cannot use bookshelf in my room just because of the wiring/mount issue.
post #16794 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

I won't be able to pull the trigger on an amp over a few hundred bucks til the middle of February. That is if my son doesn't hit me up for a loan.

No worries, I'm in no hurry to unload either of my amps, but, when the time comes for you, drop me a line, I may be able to deal on either or both the XPA-2 and -3.

Of course, if sonny boy has a reasonable request for you, I understand, my 33 yr old daughter does okay, my 26yr old son on the other hand............
post #16795 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

Thank you all for your inputs. I think i will stick with the R300 then. I dont think surrounds would require much either but since the M60 are hard to find now i just wanted to make sure i get your advice. I got the R300 for $100 a pair 2 weeks ago and my setup is M70 fronts, CS2, R300 surrounds, and PSW505 powered by Denon 3311. Btw i cannot use bookshelf in my room just because of the wiring/mount issue.

Ah ha! That's a very respectable set up. Here's another wrench for you; go ahead and get the M60's as well, to accommodate your M70's.

70's as mains, 60's as wides, that is, if you can run a 7.1 set up.

I've tried heights, rears and wides. To my surprise and delight, the wides (set up in DSX configuration) deliver so much sound that it literally doubles your front sound stage. Some have told my set up is overkill, my motto is; too much is NEVER enough and.....once you've heard a properly set up wide config, you never go back :-)

What would that look like???? So glad you asked;





post #16796 of 18636
So Geoff, do you keep these pix around to remind you of how it used to be? (I'm assuming you are still sub-less.)
post #16797 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

Ah ha! That's a very respectable set up. Here's another wrench for you; go ahead and get the M60's as well, to accommodate your M70's.

70's as mains, 60's as wides, that is, if you can run a 7.1 set up.

I've tried heights, rears and wides. To my surprise and delight, the wides (set up in DSX configuration) deliver so much sound that it literally doubles your front sound stage. Some have told my set up is overkill, my motto is; too much is NEVER enough and.....once you've heard a properly set up wide config, you never go back :-)

What would that look like???? So glad you asked;






Sorry for noob question but what r the wides and is 7.1 or 7.2 standard for bluray yet?
Edited by kevinmscs - 2/2/13 at 6:33pm
post #16798 of 18636
I just love that setup Geoff. The brick wall really is a nice touch to an already gorgeous room. Makes me wanna go out and buy some bricks. That is if I had the energy to do a project like that. Not gonna happen.
post #16799 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobLee View Post

So Geoff, do you keep these pix around to remind you of how it used to be? (I'm assuming you are still sub-less.)

Oh yes, memories, memories, how sweet the memories.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

Sorry for noob question but what r the wides and is 7.1 or 7.2 standard for bluray yet?

Bluray audio tracks range from 5.1 to 7.1. Depending on your AVR, it will take any audio track and convert it to what ever you set it for. My AVR will out put in 2ch, 3ch and different configurations of 5 and 7 channel. So If I'm watching a movie that's in 2.0, my AVR can out put it in 7.2, the bass won't be as powerful but it will still produce.

My AVR wil configure an Audyssey DSX for a 7.2 utilizing a wide channel, this widens your front stage, so when a car or a jet drives or flys off to the side, it goes way off to the side. Also, during musical scores in a movie, the wides will carry the content same as the mains adding double the sound.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

I just love that setup Geoff. The brick wall really is a nice touch to an already gorgeous room. Makes me wanna go out and buy some bricks. That is if I had the energy to do a project like that. Not gonna happen.

Thank you for the compliment, the brick was actually a gas fireplace that I never used and just put some thin plywood to cover the opening. The acoustics in the room were great, the sidewalls had built in "bump outs".

As Rob pointed out, this was my last house (I miss my stellar man cave) and as of December, I've been in my bachelor pad (small in comparison) and now reduced to a 5.0. As much bass as my A9's can put out, I miss the wrecking ball demolition power of my twins. So as I go through this season of recovery and new beginnings, I dream of a new cave when my 7.2 will re-emerge.
post #16800 of 18636
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmscs View Post

Sorry for noob question but what r the wides and is 7.1 or 7.2 standard for bluray yet?

Nice set up. You just gave me a few ideas. What brand / model subs?
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