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Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 615

post #18421 of 35020
Complete noob question here... Should I use a single RCA cable from my NR3009 to my sub LFE input or a y-splitter to both inputs and set to normal? eek.gif
post #18422 of 35020
Not certain why this posted 4 times.
post #18423 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by climber07 View Post

Complete noob question here... Should I use a single RCA cable from my NR3009 to my sub LFE input or a y-splitter to both inputs and set to normal? eek.gif

 

From what I've read just one is enough but if you are having problems with it coming out of standby using a y-splitter will help.

post #18424 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG INJUN CHIEF View Post

Not certain why this posted 4 times.

 

It's called user error. biggrin.gif J/K

post #18425 of 35020
Seems Im having a few issues. I deleted 3 of the 4 posts and now all are gone. I shall try again.

The sub LFE in defeats it's internal crossover, relying upon the AVR to perform bass management. This would be similar to using the RCA in and opening up the crossover all the way (and relying upon the AVR for bass management). I typically use the RCA with a Y splitter. You get a few dBs with the splitter. Similar to bumping the gain a smidge.
post #18426 of 35020
Ok, I went on and on the other night about a 35-50 dollar budget for cheap receiver, but I think I need to be a little realistic. So here's my questions:

which to get:

denon 1707 (7.1) never used still in box with remote for 140 bucks or

sony str-dh510 (5.1) used with remote for 75 bucks

I really never see me ever doing 7.1 plus the newer sony unit has hdmi's. probably will never use these either though....I will more than likely just hook direct to tv. man im so torn. HELP, please!


Other possibly stupid question:

I currently have a set of monitor 40's but if I got my hands on some say monitor 60's or 70's, could I then take one of those 40's and use it as a center?

Thanks for any help for someone just getting into the rabbit hole biggrin.gif
post #18427 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linked1 View Post

Ok, I went on and on the other night about a 35-50 dollar budget for cheap receiver, but I think I need to be a little realistic. So here's my questions:

which to get:

denon 1707 (7.1) never used still in box with remote for 140 bucks or

sony str-dh510 (5.1) used with remote for 75 bucks

I really never see me ever doing 7.1 plus the newer sony unit has hdmi's. probably will never use these either though....I will more than likely just hook direct to tv. man im so torn. HELP, please!


Other possibly stupid question:

I currently have a set of monitor 40's but if I got my hands on some say monitor 60's or 70's, could I then take one of those 40's and use it as a center?

Thanks for any help for someone just getting into the rabbit hole biggrin.gif

 

You might consider this one since you upped your budget:  http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/DENAVR1513/DENON-AVR-1513-5.1ch-Home-Theater-Receiver-3D-ready/1.html#!more

You'll get a one year warranty and the shipping is free.

post #18428 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

From what I've read just one is enough but if you are having problems with it coming out of standby using a y-splitter will help.

I've read that too. I've never had a problem with stand-by, but I have always used the y-splitter too. Coincidence?
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

From what I've read just one is enough but if you are having problems with it coming out of standby using a y-splitter will help.

I've had it hooked to a Y-Splitter for the last few years. The other day I hooked it direct with one cable and switched it to LFE. I also noticed that the bass response was lower with a single cable. Not sure what is best. I have the crossover in the AVR set to 120 Hz. I think I'm gonna set it back to the splitter and use the crossover in the sub.
post #18429 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

You might consider this one since you upped your budget:  http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/DENAVR1513/DENON-AVR-1513-5.1ch-Home-Theater-Receiver-3D-ready/1.html#!more
You'll get a one year warranty and the shipping is free.






thanks Stanley. do very much appreciate the heads up on that site.......that's a solid place for refurb stuff, eh? tell ya though, the more i look at stuff, the more i want to spend because you could always do a little bit better with the bells and whistles.

at this point I still have more questions than answers though. for instance, do I really need a bells and whistles model for doing stuff like internet radio or Pandora when I already have a media player? would a bells and whistles receiver with an interface direct to streaming device really make much of a difference?

to take it a step further, why do people connect everything to a receiver anyway? why not just use hdmi's on a tv? I could see wireless and network being pretty cool on receiver for firmware upgrades and maybe to network the device, but cable box and blueray player and media player ? Why?
post #18430 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linked1 View Post

question:

I currently have a set of monitor 40's but if I got my hands on some say monitor 60's or 70's, could I then take one of those 40's and use it as a center?

Thanks for any help for someone just getting into the rabbit hole biggrin.gif

Check it out; The CS2 is factored in to be the matching center for the M60 and 70. A guy could use a pair of M40's as a center, not just one. Someone in either this forum or the PolkAudio forum has submitted pictures of doing just that, it looks bad a**.

On another note, literally, anyone into REO? I was just 17 when "you can tune a piano but you cant tune a fish" album came out. I just got my copy of the remastered The Essential REO Speedwagon. I always loved the lead guitar of Gary Richrath, can I get a-witness-a
post #18431 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by climber07 View Post

I've read that too. I've never had a problem with stand-by, but I have always used the y-splitter too. Coincidence?
I've had it hooked to a Y-Splitter for the last few years. The other day I hooked it direct with one cable and switched it to LFE. I also noticed that the bass response was lower with a single cable. Not sure what is best. I have the crossover in the AVR set to 120 Hz. I think I'm gonna set it back to the splitter and use the crossover in the sub.

When I was running my duals, I used the independent sub outlets on the back of the AVR and was using LFE into the sub with the AVR set at 120hz and the mains and center set to 40hz. Now my little 807 only employed the Mult EQ and not XT32 but the performance from my subs was like no other, shoooot, why I could knock down the whole block if I wanted tooo.
post #18432 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linked1 View Post


thanks Stanley. do very much appreciate the heads up on that site.......that's a solid place for refurb stuff, eh? tell ya though, the more i look at stuff, the more i want to spend because you could always do a little bit better with the bells and whistles.

at this point I still have more questions than answers though. for instance, do I really need a bells and whistles model for doing stuff like internet radio or Pandora when I already have a media player? would a bells and whistles receiver with an interface direct to streaming device really make much of a difference?

to take it a step further, why do people connect everything to a receiver anyway? why not just use hdmi's on a tv? I could see wireless and network being pretty cool on receiver for firmware upgrades and maybe to network the device, but cable box and blueray player and media player ? Why?

 

I bought my Denon from that site. They are pretty well known in the forums. I use airplay and really enjoy it with my iPod streaming spotify. I pay $10 a month to get the 256kb bitrate. As the new models come out some of the features trickle down from the previous higher end models. With HDMI you can get the better codecs used in Blu-ray movies. If you have or plan on a Blu-ray play it's nice to have. One nice think about HDMI also is it cuts down on the number of cables you need since it carries both audio and video signals. Less spaghetti to contend with. Most of the newer receivers have Pandora and other gadgets.

post #18433 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

Check it out; The CS2 is factored in to be the matching center for the M60 and 70. A guy could use a pair of M40's as a center, not just one. Someone in either this forum or the PolkAudio forum has submitted pictures of doing just that, it looks bad a**.

On another note, literally, anyone into REO? I was just 17 when "you can tune a piano but you cant tune a fish" album came out. I just got my copy of the remastered The Essential REO Speedwagon. I always loved the lead guitar of Gary Richrath, can I get a-witness-a



Geoff, you are the man......THANKS!. Not sure I have enough room, but WHEN I get some bigger speakers, I'll be trying to pull this off for giggles if nothing else. Question is (and unfortunately there's lots of them for someone new like me), but isn't center for dialogue mostly? Would it be overkill to have two 40's as center?

RE: REO, little before my time actually but heard enough of them to know that dude was WAY better than the stuff they were making for the money. don't get me wrong though, I like their stuff but he could have been doing more technically advanced stuff.......for all I know though, maybe he was.
Edited by Linked1 - 5/8/13 at 7:57pm
post #18434 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by climber07 View Post


I've read that too. I've never had a problem with stand-by, but I have always used the y-splitter too. Coincidence?
I've had it hooked to a Y-Splitter for the last few years. The other day I hooked it direct with one cable and switched it to LFE. I also noticed that the bass response was lower with a single cable. Not sure what is best. I have the crossover in the AVR set to 120 Hz. I think I'm gonna set it back to the splitter and use the crossover in the sub.

 

I use a splitter and make the settings in the receiver. For 2 channel music I leave XT32 enabled and disable HT EQ so it will enable the tone controls and set those to my liking. Your Onkyo may be different on that. I also run my sub up to 5 db hot. Me likes the bass.

post #18435 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linked1 View Post

Geoff, you are the man......THANKS!. Not sure I have enough room, but WHEN I get some bigger speakers, I'll be trying to pull this off for giggles if nothing else. Question is (and unfortunately there's lots of them for someone new like me), but isn't center for dialogue mostly? Would it be overkill to have two 40's as center?

First off, in my world, there IS no such thing as overkill, my philosophy is; too much is NEVER enough biggrin.gif Yes, the center is the designated dialogue channel however, providing you have a room correction tool ie; Auddyssey MultEQ of some sorts, it will bring all the speakers into a harmonic blend so overkill is only achieved if you make it so.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Linked1 View Post

RE: REO, little before my time actually but heard enough of them to know that dude was WAY better than the stuff they were making for the money. don't get me wrong though, I like their stuff but he could have been doing more technically advanced stuff.......for all I know though, maybe he was.

Good observation and good point. Gary stayed with the band for 19 years, and IMO was the backbone of the band and wrote most of their big hits, then went out on his own after 1990 to do his own stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

 I also run my sub up to 5 db hot. Me likes the bass.

+5?????? Oh yeah, I forgot, there's currently no MRS. Stanley biggrin.gif I run mine no hotter than -1 but if the kids piss me off, I'll pick out a nice explosion movie and go +12 biggrin.gif
post #18436 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

I bought my Denon from that site. They are pretty well known in the forums. I use airplay and really enjoy it with my iPod streaming spotify. I pay $10 a month to get the 256kb bitrate. As the new models come out some of the features trickle down from the previous higher end models. With HDMI you can get the better codecs used in Blu-ray movies. If you have or plan on a Blu-ray play it's nice to have. One nice think about HDMI also is it cuts down on the number of cables you need since it carries both audio and video signals. Less spaghetti to contend with. Most of the newer receivers have Pandora and other gadgets.



about the music: so you stream to your ipod from internet (how do you get that stream? via wireless or is device plugged into something) and how does ipod send? wireless to receiver-via airplay? do you suppose the receiver could accept any non apple mp3 wireless or would you have to plug it in?

about video codecs: so blueray direct to tv is less codecs than bleuray hdmi to receiver hdmi to tv hdmi.

sorry for the million questions and very much appreciate all the help.

I think ill be springing for a pretty decent denon with the bells and whistles (probably from that site) but need to understand more. What ill probably end up doing is sticking whatever receiver I get for these 40's into another room later.
post #18437 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

First off, in my world, there IS no such thing as overkill, my philosophy is; too much is NEVER enough biggrin.gif Yes, the center is the designated dialogue channel however, providing you have a room correction tool ie; Auddyssey MultEQ of some sorts, it will bring all the speakers into a harmonic blend so overkill is only achieved if you make it so.


Hahahahaaaaaa. Ok,lol, so let me ask it this way: If by chance I didn't have a receiver with Auddyssey, would using one 40 as center suffice? I'm sitting here looking at these things and thinking there's no damn way I'm squeezing two of those into the tv stand.
post #18438 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linked1 View Post


about the music: so you stream to your ipod from internet (how do you get that stream? via wireless or is device plugged into something) and how does ipod send? wireless to receiver-via airplay? do you suppose the receiver could accept any non apple mp3 wireless or would you have to plug it in?

about video codecs: so blueray direct to tv is less codecs than bleuray hdmi to receiver hdmi to tv hdmi.

sorry for the million questions and very much appreciate all the help.

I think ill be springing for a pretty decent denon with the bells and whistles (probably from that site) but need to understand more. What ill probably end up doing is sticking whatever receiver I get for these 40's into another room later.

 

I went back and looked at the specs on the 1312 receiver. It doesn't support airplay or DLNA for streaming wireless. There is also no USB input. Not much of a trickle down to that receiver. I guess the price reflects that. If those features are important to you it's a no go. I myself couldn't live without those features. I'd die a slow and painful death from ear malnutrition.

post #18439 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

When I was running my duals, I used the independent sub outlets on the back of the AVR and was using LFE into the sub with the AVR set at 120hz and the mains and center set to 40hz. Now my little 807 only employed the Mult EQ and not XT32 but the performance from my subs was like no other, shoooot, why I could knock down the whole block if I wanted tooo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

I use a splitter and make the settings in the receiver. For 2 channel music I leave XT32 enabled and disable HT EQ so it will enable the tone controls and set those to my liking. Your Onkyo may be different on that. I also run my sub up to 5 db hot. Me likes the bass.

It's funny but I just spent a half an hour playing with the settings and came up with almost the exact same numbers and settings you guys did. I used the y-splitter, set the sub to LFE (to bypass the internal crossover) and set the AVR crossover to 120 Hz...

The y-splitter turned out to increase the sub about 5 - 8 db when measured with Audyssey.

I have also disabled Audyssey (to allow the use of the manual equalizer setting). I disabled dynamic EQ and music optimzer as well. The music optimizer seems to add a considerable amount of bass. Too much at times.

All said and done, I'm running the sub about 5 dB hotter than default and the fronts are warmer, with a wide sound stage, while staying super detailed as RTiA9s love to do.

Thanks for your help guys. I'll have to do it all over again in a week when the second sub gets here!!! I hate waiting. mad.gif
post #18440 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by climber07 View Post


Thanks for your help guys. I'll have to do it all over again in a week when the second sub gets here!!! I hate waiting. mad.gif

 

Waiting isn't so bad. As long as your the one doing the waiting.  tongue.gif

post #18441 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Linked1 View Post

about video codecs: so blueray direct to tv is less codecs than bleuray hdmi to receiver hdmi to tv hdmi.

If you plugged a Blu Ray player directly to a TV, you would then need to connect the TV to the AVR via HDMI to use Audio Return Channel (ARC) or you could use an optical cable. Most TVs only output 2.0 via ARC. Optical cables can do 5.1 Dolby at most, and I don't believe they are able to pass the new DTS-HD and Dolby HD formats. So, you would want to connect the Blu Ray player directly to the AVR to get the best sound. However, for cable TV it is less important because as of now no programming has sound better than 5.1 Dolby, so you can connect that directly to the TV and use optical out to the AVR. But IMO is easier to control everything from one unit, so I'd rather connect everything to the AVR.
post #18442 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGala View Post

If you plugged a Blu Ray player directly to a TV, you would then need to connect the TV to the AVR via HDMI to use Audio Return Channel (ARC) or you could use an optical cable. Most TVs only output 2.0 via ARC. Optical cables can do 5.1 Dolby at most, and I don't believe they are able to pass the new DTS-HD and Dolby HD formats. So, you would want to connect the Blu Ray player directly to the AVR to get the best sound. However, for cable TV it is less important because as of now no programming has sound better than 5.1 Dolby, so you can connect that directly to the TV and use optical out to the AVR. But IMO is easier to control everything from one unit, so I'd rather connect everything to the AVR.

+1 brother.
When you refer to more or less codecs for the Bluray data, you are referring to hardware or software that decodes the digital signal on the physical disc. Basically interpreting the lands and pits (ones and zeros) on the burned on the disc surface.

I'm with AmGala on the connection to the AVR. If you connect directly to the TV, you are adding a lot of complexity to the system by then rerouting audio back to the AVR. Once your Bluray player decodes the disc, it can pass through the HDMI interface in your AVR without any further decoding. This is called HDMI pass through on most AVRs. You do not want to process the signal any further after the Bluray player has done it's job.

I hate to do this, but here is an excerpt concernign S/PDIF (optial) and the formats and compression it uses. Whenever possible, HDMI is going to be your best solution for audio from a digital device.

"S/PDIF (Sony/Philips Digital Interconnect Format) is a type of digital audio interconnect cable used in consumer audio equipment to output audio over reasonably short distances. The signal is transmitted over either a coaxial cable with RCA connectors or a fibre optic cable with TOSLINK connectors. S/PDIF interconnects components in home theatres and other digital high fidelity systems. S/PDIF is based on the professional AES3 interconnect standard.[1] S/PDIF can carry two channels of uncompressed lossless PCM audio or compressed 5.1/7.1 surround sound such as Dolby Digital Plus or DTS-HD High Resolution Audio. But, it does not have the capacity to carry the uncompressed data in the lossless formats of Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio – as HDMI does".
post #18443 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by climber07 View Post

"S/PDIF (Sony/Philips Digital Interconnect Format) is a type of digital audio interconnect cable used in consumer audio equipment to output audio over reasonably short distances. The signal is transmitted over either a coaxial cable with RCA connectors or a fibre optic cable with TOSLINK connectors. S/PDIF interconnects components in home theatres and other digital high fidelity systems. S/PDIF is based on the professional AES3 interconnect standard.[1] S/PDIF can carry two channels of uncompressed lossless PCM audio or compressed 5.1/7.1 surround sound such as Dolby Digital Plus or DTS-HD High Resolution Audio. But, it does not have the capacity to carry the uncompressed data in the lossless formats of Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio – as HDMI does".

I wasn't sure about this before. Thanks for the info!
post #18444 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGala View Post

I wasn't sure about this before. Thanks for the info!

No problem brother. I learned a little about the 5.1/7.1 compression as well.
post #18445 of 35020
I have been eying this pair of LSIm703 http://www.ebay.com/itm/LSiM703-Midnight-Bookshelf-Rear-Speaker-Polk-Audio-EACH-/360644829376?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item53f81b60c0 is this a good price( i see a cheap pair at http://bestofaudio.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=9&products_id=9770 but I can't tell if they would have a warenty) ?
I have a yamaha advantage 702 will that handle driving them?
I was thinking about pairing them with a hsu vtf-3 mk3 or outlaw LFM-1 Plus or PSA xs15b.

Any thoughts or suggestions?
post #18446 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by PretzelFisch View Post

I have been eying this pair of LSIm703 http://www.ebay.com/itm/LSiM703-Midnight-Bookshelf-Rear-Speaker-Polk-Audio-EACH-/360644829376?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item53f81b60c0 is this a good price( i see a cheap pair at http://bestofaudio.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=9&products_id=9770 but I can't tell if they would have a warenty) ?
I have a yamaha advantage 702 will that handle driving them?
I was thinking about pairing them with a hsu vtf-3 mk3 or outlaw LFM-1 Plus or PSA xs15b.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

When I bought my 703's from Polk ebay they were having a sale and they cost $543 each after tax. Yep, they charge tax even if they don't have a B&M store in your state. If you look at the warranty policy of that second site it appears they are not an authorized dealer. I'm biding my time till Polk ebay has another sale so I can grab the CC. I've never heard of that second site.

That receiver will drive them but only at moderate levels. Looks like that receiver only has pre-outs for a CC and sub so an amp isn't going to work with it if you feel you need more juice.


Edited by XStanleyX - 5/9/13 at 3:40pm
post #18447 of 35020
ok my current setup is the monitor 75Ts for front, 25C for center, and psw505 powered by denon 2113ci. i'm thinking of going with the monitor 45Bs for surround, but i'd need to get mounts. does anyone have any recommendations or experiences with mounts big enough? they're currently $150 at newegg. i was thought about going with the 55Ts for surround as it would basically have the mounts on them. they are $120 a piece. any recommendations on which you would prefer? 150+mounts vs 240.
post #18448 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by PretzelFisch View Post

I have been eying this pair of LSIm703 http://www.ebay.com/itm/LSiM703-Midnight-Bookshelf-Rear-Speaker-Polk-Audio-EACH-/360644829376?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item53f81b60c0 is this a good price( i see a cheap pair at http://bestofaudio.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=9&products_id=9770 but I can't tell if they would have a warenty) ?
I have a yamaha advantage 702 will that handle driving them?
I was thinking about pairing them with a hsu vtf-3 mk3 or outlaw LFM-1 Plus or PSA xs15b.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

You might want to check out what they have to say about Best of Audio on Audioholics, nothing good.
post #18449 of 35020
I'm planning to pick up a pair of RTiA1 for my front left and right speakers. The surrounds will be in walls. I think I will be buying a pair of RC55i for surrounds because they have a 5 1/4 inch woofer like the RTiA1 bookshelf speakers. Does this make sense or is there a better match for the surrounds?

Interestingly, I can pick up the next bigger model, the RC65i, for a little less money, so would those work just as well despite the larger woofer than the bookshelf speakers?
Edited by Blue - 5/9/13 at 4:47pm
post #18450 of 35020
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue View Post

I'm planning to pick up a pair of RTiA1 for my front left and right speakers. The surrounds will be in walls. I think I will be buying a pair of RC55i for surrounds because they have a 5 1/4 inch woofer like the RTiA1 bookshelf speakers. Does this make sense or is there a better match for the surrounds?

Interestingly, I can pick up the next bigger model, the RC65i, for a little less money, so would those work just as well despite the larger woofer than the bookshelf speakers?

I don't know anything specific about the in walls but I would go bigger if its cheaper. There won't be any issues with the A1's and I'd you upgrade you will be prepared.
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