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Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 801

post #24001 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post


Weird. MCACC should have leveled those speakers to the same dB output.  It does this when playing a dvd/blu-ray? The volume can read different but should output the same dB.

I found the perpetrator. Here is the mugshot:

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.M2b

Like I mentioned before, I got the LSi-C and the new cable on the same day. The Canare always require 1-2 days break in time. I left it playing overnight, but didn't check in the morning if there was an improvement. Now I reconnected the LSi-C after some break in and sound was improved. It matches the LSi-9s now. One problem didnt go away (and I dont think it ever will) - its this boxy, nasal quality to the LSi-C. But if you compare the LSi-C and LSi-9, the enclosure quality is far superior in the LSi-9. Its is simply formidable. 1.5 inch sides, heavy as hell! Lsi-C - not so much. So, what would you expect?
Comparing the old Bic America and LSi-C after speaker cable break in left me with this impression. Bic America is loud, bright, in-your-face so to speak. I can crank it up to +20 and get tired after 10 minutes (all other channels defeated). LSi-C is different. It is understated now, not mute or even shy. I can crank it up to -7 and listen to it for about 40 minutes before I get the sense of fatigue. But the main difference is in what I hear. The crash of cymbals are suspended longer in the end. The instruments are more vivid, detailed, then dont step on each other.
Its like having two guests for dinner. One is loud, obnoxious, demands attention, grabs you by the arm, tells you at first entertaining stories until you realize in a few minutes that they are all lies. The other guest is silent until you mention that you have a problem lets say with the the car, or the IRS, or whatever. He says "I can fix that" and somehow he does. Which guest would you love to have around next time?
That is what LSi-C became after cable break in.
Edited by grigorianvlad - 11/21/13 at 8:54am
post #24002 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post

I found the perpetrator. Here is the mugshot:

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.M2b


That is what LSi-C became after cable break in.

Question, can you explain about break in for cable, or at least point me in the right direction? I just ordered some quad wire from BJC for my 75t (I know, entry level..) and am curious if I need to do anything special. Thanks in advance!
post #24003 of 35436
I am no expert in these matters. But here is what I know. You have to give cables 1-2 days to break in. They dont need as much break in time as speakers, but 1-2 days is enough. The difference is more noticeable as you go up the chain - applies to both speaker and cable quality.
I know most of people will tell you that any wire larger than 16 gauge will do, and that is true for most set ups.
I noticed no difference whatsoever with my previous speakers (mass market floorstanders). Monoprice (same as BJC) did just fine.
But with the LSi and the Canare there is a difference as you can see. If you go up the chain further to Magicos or Wilsons you will have to upgrade the cables as well. As a matter of fact, spending $3,000 - $,4000 on cables will be in order.
Cable budget should be about 10%-15% of your total audio or HT budget. If you spent $1,000 total, at least try different cables costing about $100 all put together, give them a couple of days to break in, then listen and listen and listen and then decide. You may discover that BJC is all you need (about $30, right?). Or you may decide that sound is improved with a more expensive pair. Dont go over $60 per cable for the 75ts. I wouldn't go over that for mine. Too much is too much.
post #24004 of 35436
That was very informative, thanks for the reply. I should have been more specific but how exactly do you break them in? Are you talking aobut physically coiling them and letting them sit? Or do you mean playing music for a certain amount of time? Also, I forgot BJC makes their own cable. What I meant to was I bought 18' of the Canare 4s11 for about $25. For my center and rear surround I would be using Monoprice CL2 12AWG.
post #24005 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by nehmia View Post

That was very informative, thanks for the reply. I should have been more specific but how exactly do you break them in? Are you talking aobut physically coiling them and letting them sit? Or do you mean playing music for a certain amount of time? Also, I forgot BJC makes their own cable. What I meant to was I bought 18' of the Canare 4s11 for about $25. For my center and rear surround I would be using Monoprice CL2 12AWG.

Break in means playing at moderate to loud levels. No physical interaction such as cooling or heating. I dont know the science behind this but the signal has to circulate through the cables for a while before they broken in, that is all.
I think what you mean by mentioning the Canare and Monoprice is that you plan to use a larger gauge Monoprice for the fronts only because it is larger, and the smaller 18' Canare for the surrounds. Am I correct?
If so, keep in mind that if your cable gauge is bigger than 18 (meaning thicker than 18) and your resistance is over 4ohm your cable distance should be about 100 feet between your AVR or power amp and speakers for the gauge to even matter.
You can see for yourself here, even calculate: http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf
The truth is you better use better WIRE for fronts, not necessarily thicker GAUGE. It could be an 18 gauge, but high quality. Test both and see.
post #24006 of 35436
Again, apologies if my noob-ness is causing confusion. The canare is 18' (ft) of the 4s11 cable (which i believe is 14 AWG x 4). My plan is to make cables for both fronts in a Bi-Wire configuration. The Monoprice 12 AWG will be in wall and I was use what's left to make patch cables from it for the rear surrounds and the center channel.
post #24007 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post

I am no expert in these matters. But here is what I know. You have to give cables 1-2 days to break in. They dont need as much break in time as speakers, but 1-2 days is enough. The difference is more noticeable as you go up the chain - applies to both speaker and cable quality.
I know most of people will tell you that any wire larger than 16 gauge will do, and that is true for most set ups.
I noticed no difference whatsoever with my previous speakers (mass market floorstanders). Monoprice (same as BJC) did just fine.
But with the LSi and the Canare there is a difference as you can see. If you go up the chain further to Magicos or Wilsons you will have to upgrade the cables as well. As a matter of fact, spending $3,000 - $,4000 on cables will be in order.
Cable budget should be about 10%-15% of your total audio or HT budget. If you spent $1,000 total, at least try different cables costing about $100 all put together, give them a couple of days to break in, then listen and listen and listen and then decide. You may discover that BJC is all you need (about $30, right?). Or you may decide that sound is improved with a more expensive pair. Dont go over $60 per cable for the 75ts. I wouldn't go over that for mine. Too much is too much.

Sorry but I disagree with all of this. It's the gauge of wire you should be concerned with. Cables don't need broke in. eek.gif Sorry but it's true. Don't waste your money on marketing hype. That's all it is. There are literally hundreds of articles debunking the myth of the super duper speaker wire, HDMI cable etc.. Here is just one on speaker wire. Let the games begin. biggrin.gif

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm#thetruth
post #24008 of 35436
Dammit Migraine you beat me to posting that link. But I was going to also point out that if it makes someone happier with their purchase(s) and experience(s), then I'm all for it. While there may not be such a thing as "better" cabling, there is absolutely such a thing as placebo effect, and it can be very powerful. For me, the Monoprice and Mediabridge cables are fine. For some, the fancy IB cables are where it's at. To each his own, right?
post #24009 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post

I found the perpetrator. Here is the mugshot:

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.M2b

Like I mentioned before, I got the LSi-C and the new cable on the same day. The Canare always require 1-2 days break in time. I left it playing overnight, but didn't check in the morning if there was an improvement. Now I reconnected the LSi-C after some break in and sound was improved. It matches the LSi-9s now. One problem didnt go away (and I dont think it ever will) - its this boxy, nasal quality to the LSi-C. But if you compare the LSi-C and LSi-9, the enclosure quality is far superior in the LSi-9. Its is simply formidable. 1.5 inch sides, heavy as hell! Lsi-C - not so much. So, what would you expect?
Comparing the old Bic America and LSi-C after speaker cable break in left me with this impression. Bic America is loud, bright, in-your-face so to speak. I can crank it up to +20 and get tired after 10 minutes (all other channels defeated). LSi-C is different. It is understated now, not mute or even shy. I can crank it up to -7 and listen to it for about 40 minutes before I get the sense of fatigue. But the main difference is in what I hear. The crash of cymbals are suspended longer in the end. The instruments are more vivid, detailed, then dont step on each other.
Its like having two guests for dinner. One is loud, obnoxious, demands attention, grabs you by the arm, tells you at first entertaining stories until you realize in a few minutes that they are all lies. The other guest is silent until you mention that you have a problem lets say with the the car, or the IRS, or whatever. He says "I can fix that" and somehow he does. Which guest would you love to have around next time?
That is what LSi-C became after cable break in.

When moving from an "in your face" speaker, the LSi series will seem understated and mellow. Almost to the point of being underpowered. They are fairly inefficient 4 ohm speakers and require more power to come alive. The XPA-3 should have absolutely no problem powering it.

The nasally sound you are getting is surprising. Can you check to make sure the tweeter and both drivers are working? I would also check the binding posts in the back to make sure they are connected properly (jumper plates).
post #24010 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by nehmia View Post

Again, apologies if my noob-ness is causing confusion. The canare is 18' (ft) of the 4s11 cable (which i believe is 14 AWG x 4). My plan is to make cables for both fronts in a Bi-Wire configuration. The Monoprice 12 AWG will be in wall and I was use what's left to make patch cables from it for the rear surrounds and the center channel.

Entirely my fault. 4s11 should have told me they are 11 gauge. I didnt figure this out. I should have because I use the same for the L/R/C channels.
Yes, your setup looks good. Other will chime in and provide their opinion.
For now let me leave you with this quote from the Complete Guide to High End Audio by Robert Harley:
Quote:
One pitfall, however, is that cables and interconnects need time to break in before they sound their best. Before break-in, a cable often sounds bright, hard, fatiguing, congested, and lacking in soundstage depth. These characteristics often disappear after several hours’ use, with days or weeks of use required for full break-in. You can’t be sure, however, if the cable is inherently bright- and hard-sounding, or if it just needs breaking-in. Note that break-in wears off over time. Even if a cable has had significant use, after a long period of not being used it may not sound its best until you’ve put music through it for a few days. With those cautions in mind, you’re ready to evaluate cables and interconnects.
Listen to the first interconnect for 15 minutes to half an hour, then replace it with the next candidate. One way of choosing between them is merely to ask yourself which interconnect allows you to enjoy the music more. You don’t need to analyze what you’re hearing; just pick the interconnect that makes you feel better. The other method is to scrutinize what you’re hearing from each interconnect and
catalog the strengths and weaknesses. You’ll often hear trade-offs between interconnects: one may have smoother treble and finer resolution than another, but less soundstage focus and transparency. Another common trade-off is between smoothness and resolution of detail: The smooth cable may lose some musical information, but the high-resolution cable can sound analytical and bright. Again, careful auditioning in your own system is the only way to select the right cables and interconnects. Keep in mind, however, that a better cable can sometimes reveal flaws in the rest of your system. You should also know that cables and interconnects sound better after they have “settled in” for a few days.
post #24011 of 35436
Cable break in is smoke and mirrors. The electrical qualities (of adequately gauged cable for the run length) will not change with use unless overheated. Copper does not change molecular property or electrical qualities (resistance, capacitance or inductance) by passing electrical current.

Physically moving parts, such as speaker drivers, may indeed benefit from break in. The movement of the driver may cause the rubber surrounds to become more supple over time. Just think about it, you have common 20 AWG electrical wire inside the speaker from the crossover to the drivers... rolleyes.gif
Edited by climber07 - 11/21/13 at 11:49am
post #24012 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by nehmia View Post

That was very informative, thanks for the reply. I should have been more specific but how exactly do you break them in? Are you talking aobut physically coiling them and letting them sit? Or do you mean playing music for a certain amount of time? Also, I forgot BJC makes their own cable. What I meant to was I bought 18' of the Canare 4s11 for about $25. For my center and rear surround I would be using Monoprice CL2 12AWG.


I hesitate to wade into this controversial topic, but you should investigate for yourself the value of such things as wire conditioning. This site, with a design straight from 1996, offers a different view of the situation:

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

If you're buying specialty wire, maybe you've already formed an opinion, I don't know. I just feel that people get sucked in by marketing. My thinking, especially with speaker wire (and even more especially with power cables) is that it is our hearing that is becoming conditioned, as opposed to any hardware being conditioned or outperforming lower cost hardware. At some point, and I don't know where that point is, the law of diminishing returns crushes any benefits you get (or think you get) for the cost. Personally, I feel this occurs at a fairly low price point when it comes to wire. In speaker wire, the gauge is the #1 important thing, and as long it's big enough to keep the resistance below a certain fraction of the speaker impedance then the differences will be inaudible.

Others have finer ears that I do, though, and it's your money to spend.
post #24013 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

I hesitate to wade into this controversial topic, but you should investigate for yourself the value of such things as wire conditioning. This site, with a design straight from 1996, offers a different view of the situation:

http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm

If you're buying specialty wire, maybe you've already formed an opinion, I don't know. I just feel that people get sucked in by marketing. My thinking, especially with speaker wire (and even more especially with power cables) is that it is our hearing that is becoming conditioned, as opposed to any hardware being conditioned or outperforming lower cost hardware. At some point, and I don't know where that point is, the law of diminishing returns crushes any benefits you get (or think you get) for the cost. Personally, I feel this occurs at a fairly low price point when it comes to wire. In speaker wire, the gauge is the #1 important thing, and as long it's big enough to keep the resistance below a certain fraction of the speaker impedance then the differences will be inaudible.

Others have finer ears that I do, though, and it's your money to spend.

You have a curiously fitting user name my friend. biggrin.gif
post #24014 of 35436
Quote:
Before break-in, a cable often sounds bright, hard, fatiguing, congested, and lacking in soundstage depth.

These terms are non-objective and non-quantifiable, with the possible exception of "bright". They should instead publish an output graph of the sound before and after "break-in" so the differences can be seen empirically. If they cannot be seen, or if people cannot identify the differences in double-blind testing, then perhaps the differences don't exist.
post #24015 of 35436
Nehmia, dont let anyone (me including) tell you that you are not supposed to like something because you can't definitively prove to a third party that you like it. Life is short. Enjoy what you can while you can. A positive reaction is subjective, not objective. Buy what you like and what is within your budget. Test it. If you think it sounds better - more power to you. If you think there is no difference - return it. But at least experiment YOURSELF, dont listen to anybody.
It looks like you are set with the cables anyway, so you dont need to do anything.
Edited by grigorianvlad - 11/21/13 at 12:07pm
post #24016 of 35436

I am a newbie and I recently purchased my very first speakers...a pair of "demoed" RTIA9 tower speakers for $825 from Fry's.  I have 3 weeks left to audition them before the 30day return expires for a full refund.  I have a budget of $2500 but also used $600 towards a Harman Kardon 3700 receiver.  I will be purchasing the remaining center and surround speakers from Polk's ebay store.  After all is said and done this is how my system will look:

 

$600 HK 3700

$825 Polk RTIA9

$300 Polk CSIA6

$360 Polk FXIA6

$500 BIC PL-200 (2) OR SVS PB-1000

 

$2,585 TOTAL

 

However, I am reading good things about the EMP Tek Impression Series and I really like the look of them too!  They are having a sale until the end of the month (November 30).  If I go that route, this is how I would be spending my $2500:

 

$600 HK 3700

$580 EMP Tek E55Ti

$315 EMP Tek E56Ci

$330 EMP Tek E55Wi

$500 EMP Tek E1010i (2) OR SVS PB-1000

 

$2,325 TOTAL

 

So that would be a savings of $260 going the EMP Tek route.  Yes, I understand that the Polk speakers are more powerful than the EMP Teks.  Also, I will eventually make purchase for an external amp to run the RTIA9 (maybe in a year or so).  I don't know if it matters a lot, but the Polk are 8 ohms and the EMP Tek are 6 ohms.  Currently, I will be placing them in my living room (23' W x 15' D x 8' H).  I will be using this setup more for movies (70%) than music (30%).

 

I really really need and am asking for owners of these speakers and/or the experts/veterans that can give me an insight on the route I should go.  Thank you in advance :) 

post #24017 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by cytoSiN View Post

Dammit Migraine you beat me to posting that link. But I was going to also point out that if it makes someone happier with their purchase(s) and experience(s), then I'm all for it. While there may not be such a thing as "better" cabling, there is absolutely such a thing as placebo effect, and it can be very powerful. For me, the Monoprice and Mediabridge cables are fine. For some, the fancy IB cables are where it's at. To each his own, right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post

Nehmia, dont let anyone (me including) tell you that you are not supposed to like something because you can't definitively prove to a third party that you like it. Life is short. Enjoy what you can while you can. A positive reaction is subjective, not objective. Buy what you like and what is within your budget. Test it. If you think it sounds better - more power to you. If you think there is no difference - return it. But at least experiment YOURSELF, dont listen to anybody.
It looks like you are set with the cables anyway, so you dont need to do anything.

My point exactly.
post #24018 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post

Nehmia, dont let anyone (me including) tell you that you are not supposed like something because you can't definitively prove to a third party that you like it. Life is short. Enjoy what you can while you can. A positive reaction is subjective, not objective. Buy what you like and what is within your budget. Test it. If you think it sounds better - more power to you. If you think there is no difference - return it. But at least experiment YOURSELF, dont listen to anybody.
It looks like you are set with the cables anyway, so you dont need to do anything.

Sorry disagree again. Knowledge is founded in listening to others and doing your own testing.

Back to the break-in issue or IMO non-issue. Do you break-in the electrical wiring in a new house? Do you break-in your Christmas lights so they shine brighter? No, to both. As I said non-issue. Please save your money for other things. I can tell you as a regular here we love to spend other peoples money. We don't love them wasting it.
post #24019 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post

Nehmia, dont let anyone (me including) tell you that you are not supposed to like something because you can't definitively prove to a third party that you like it. Life is short. Enjoy what you can while you can. A positive reaction is subjective, not objective. Buy what you like and what is within your budget. Test it. If you think it sounds better - more power to you. If you think there is no difference - return it. But at least experiment YOURSELF, dont listen to anybody.
It looks like you are set with the cables anyway, so you dont need to do anything.

I figured I might become the bad guy. A few points:

1. I suggested nehmia investigate this for himself, as you just did.
2. I did not say he was not supposed to like something.
3. I did not ask him to prove anything to any third party, but suggested that he prove it to himself. My last post was referring to the writer you quoted--I think it would be beneficial for him to back up his claims.
4. As for not listening to anybody--then why did you post on this topic?

Look, people can spend their money however they like. I am simply encouraging people to look beyond the marketing before they hand that money over. No need to make this into a philosophical treatise on life where skeptical thinking is equated to not enjoying life.
post #24020 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by HKPolkMe View Post

I am a newbie and I recently purchased my very first speakers...a pair of "demoed" RTIA9 tower speakers for $825 from Fry's.  I have 3 weeks left to audition them before the 30day return expires for a full refund.  I have a budget of $2500 but also used $600 towards a Harman Kardon 3700 receiver.  I will be purchasing the remaining center and surround speakers from Polk's ebay store.  After all is said and done this is how my system will look:

$600 HK 3700
$825 Polk RTIA9
$300 Polk CSIA6
$360 Polk FXIA6
$500 BIC PL-200 (2) OR SVS PB-1000

$2,585 TOTAL

However, I am reading good things about the EMP Tek Impression Series and I really like the look of them too!  They are having a sale until the end of the month (November 30).  If I go that route, this is how I would be spending my $2500:

$600 HK 3700
$580 EMP Tek E55Ti
$315 EMP Tek E56Ci
$330 EMP Tek E55Wi
$500 EMP Tek E1010i (2) OR SVS PB-1000

$2,325 TOTAL

So that would be a savings of $260 going the EMP Tek route.  Yes, I understand that the Polk speakers are more powerful than the EMP Teks.  Also, I will eventually make purchase for an external amp to run the RTIA9 (maybe in a year or so).  I don't know if it matters a lot, but the Polk are 8 ohms and the EMP Tek are 6 ohms.  Currently, I will be placing them in my living room (23' W x 15' D x 8' H).  I will be using this setup more for movies (70%) than music (30%).

I really really need and am asking for owners of these speakers and/or the experts/veterans that can give me an insight on the route I should go.  Thank you in advance smile.gif  

Can you get the EMP Teks for a in home test also? That would be the best way to decide. I'm sure that if you tested both setups in the same room with the same conditions you would like the sound of one better. Those will be the best speakers for you!
post #24021 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by migraine24-7 View Post

Sorry disagree again. Knowledge is founded in listening to others and doing your own testing.

Back to the break-in issue or IMO non-issue. Do you break-in the electrical wiring in a new house? Do you break-in your Christmas lights so they shine brighter? No, to both. As I said non-issue. Please save your money for other things. I can tell you as a regular here we love to spend other peoples money. We don't love them wasting it.

Migraine24-7, please scroll up and read the first 3-4 posts in this thread. It describes what effect a cable break in had on my speaker. Are you telling me that the difference (before and after break in) is simply a figment of my imagination? Thanks.
post #24022 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by migraine24-7 View Post


Can you get the EMP Teks for a in home test also? That would be the best way to decide. I'm sure that if you tested both setups in the same room with the same conditions you would like the sound of one better. Those will be the best speakers for you!


I could, they offer a 30 day home trial.

 

To get the most of the RTIA9s, do I need an external amp of at least 200 wpc?

post #24023 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post

Are you telling me that the difference (before and after break in) is simply a figment of my imagination?
It is, placebo effect to be precise. Drivers do break in, as they are mechanical with moving parts. Nothing in a cable moves or is altered with use. Those who claim that there's any benefit to breaking in cables are snake oil merchants. Not the slightest bit coincidental is that they are mainly sellers of high priced cables, which are also snake oil. Not that paying good money to get screwed is inherently a bad idea, but it should be paid to a hooker, not a cable company. rolleyes.gif
Quote:
I dont know the science behind this
There is none. The technical term for the pseudo-scientific gobbledy gook that the cable crooks use to describe how cable break in works is: Lies. Why do they lie? You have money, they want it, and they will say anything to get it.
Edited by Bill Fitzmaurice - 11/21/13 at 12:50pm
post #24024 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by migraine24-7 View Post

Sorry disagree again. Knowledge is founded in listening to others and doing your own testing.

Back to the break-in issue or IMO non-issue. Do you break-in the electrical wiring in a new house? Do you break-in your Christmas lights so they shine brighter? No, to both. As I said non-issue. Please save your money for other things. I can tell you as a regular here we love to spend other peoples money. We don't love them wasting it.

Migraine24-7, please scroll up and read the first 3-4 posts in this thread. It describes what effect a cable break in had on my speaker. Are you telling me that the difference (before and after break in) is simply a figment of my imagination? Thanks.

Ya, guess I am. When multiple studies conducted by scientists say that wire break-in is useless then I side with them. How bout this. Buy another set. Run tests and record the data. Then in 2-3 days rerun tests and show me the difference. (Graphs, data etc etc..)When you can do that I will print a full retraction and apologize to you. Balls in your court.
post #24025 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

I figured I might become the bad guy. A few points:
My last post was referring to the writer you quoted--I think it would be beneficial for him to back up his .

He doesnt back it up. He simply states pretty much the same thing I said, although there is whole chapter on this topic. It boils down to "if you like it - you like it".
post #24026 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by HKPolkMe View Post

I am a newbie and I recently purchased my very first speakers...a pair of "demoed" RTIA9 tower speakers for $825 from Fry's.  I have 3 weeks left to audition them before the 30day return expires for a full refund.  I have a budget of $2500 but also used $600 towards a Harman Kardon 3700 receiver.  I will be purchasing the remaining center and surround speakers from Polk's ebay store.  After all is said and done this is how my system will look:

$600 HK 3700
$825 Polk RTIA9
$300 Polk CSIA6
$360 Polk FXIA6
$500 BIC PL-200 (2) OR SVS PB-1000

$2,585 TOTAL

However, I am reading good things about the EMP Tek Impression Series and I really like the look of them too!  They are having a sale until the end of the month (November 30).  If I go that route, this is how I would be spending my $2500:

$600 HK 3700
$580 EMP Tek E55Ti
$315 EMP Tek E56Ci
$330 EMP Tek E55Wi
$500 EMP Tek E1010i (2) OR SVS PB-1000

$2,325 TOTAL

So that would be a savings of $260 going the EMP Tek route.  Yes, I understand that the Polk speakers are more powerful than the EMP Teks.  Also, I will eventually make purchase for an external amp to run the RTIA9 (maybe in a year or so).  I don't know if it matters a lot, but the Polk are 8 ohms and the EMP Tek are 6 ohms.  Currently, I will be placing them in my living room (23' W x 15' D x 8' H).  I will be using this setup more for movies (70%) than music (30%).

I really really need and am asking for owners of these speakers and/or the experts/veterans that can give me an insight on the route I should go.  Thank you in advance smile.gif  

Quote:
Originally Posted by HKPolkMe View Post


I could, they offer a 30 day home trial.

To get the most of the RTIA9s, do I need an external amp of at least 200 wpc?

1) Im not familiar with that AVR but you will need an external amp. Your AVR needs 12v triggers to turn them on automatically.

2) sub wise I would recommend the Rythmik LVR12D.

3) I've been doing a lot of research about speakers, since I want to upgrade and I'm trying to decide between the Empteks and Arx. My wife likes the cherry Empteks. While I like the Arx since they appear to be better for music.
post #24027 of 35436

Have an ugly woman give you a massage and then a hot babe give you one. See which one feels better. Your eyes can influence you big time. I've played the cable game and found no difference. If you can more power to you. Don't care what you buy.

post #24028 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by HKPolkMe View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by migraine24-7 View Post

Can you get the EMP Teks for a in home test also? That would be the best way to decide. I'm sure that if you tested both setups in the same room with the same conditions you would like the sound of one better. Those will be the best speakers for you!


I could, they offer a 30 day home trial.

To get the most of the RTIA9s, do I need an external amp of at least 200 wpc?

I don't own RTiA9s. I just bought a set of RTi12s and I have a external amp powering them. To answer your question, "to get the most", I would say "yes". But it wouldn't be a must to begin with. Can always upgrade later. And your speakers will seem like a completely new speaker. smile.gif IMO
post #24029 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus748s View Post



1) Im not familiar with that AVR but you will need an external amp. Your AVR needs 12v triggers to turn them on automatically.

2) sub wise I would recommend the Rythmik LVR12D.

3) I've been doing a lot of research about speakers, since I want to upgrade and I'm trying to decide between the Empteks and Arx. My wife likes the cherry Empteks. While I like the Arx since they appear to be better for music.

Do you know if the EMP Teks are good for movies?

post #24030 of 35436
Quote:
Originally Posted by grigorianvlad View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThinkRationally View Post

I figured I might become the bad guy. A few points:
My last post was referring to the writer you quoted--I think it would be beneficial for him to back up his .

He doesnt back it up. He simply states pretty much the same thing I said, although there is whole chapter on this topic. It boils down to "if you like it - you like it".

A whole chapter! Wow!! I can write a whole BOOK doesn't mean any word in it is true. Just sayin.
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