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Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 808

post #24211 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeme View Post

Actually I am using a line level converter and it works well.

Active or passive?
post #24212 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by migraine24-7 View Post

I've put my RTi12s in place. They are just a little short of the current speaker wire wall plate. I don't think I can get spikes tall enough. If I can please tell me where. So my choices are: lower the wall plate or build a small platform for the speakers to stand on. I prefer option #1. I hate speaker wire showing. mad.gif What are your thoughts?


Put a plant on the speaker, they like the vibrations apparently :-)
post #24213 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG INJUN CHIEF View Post

Active or passive?

Just a passive one intended for car use, till I can eventually get a newer receiver with room correction. I think the brand is soche. Found it on crutchfield for $25.
post #24214 of 34945
What's the consensus on keeping speaker, AVR etc boxes? I usually don't keep boxes. But, I made a deal with my wife that I wouldn't buy any new speakers, AVR, projector or screen for 5 years unless something broke. eek.gif So I know I won't be upgrading for a few years. Long time for boxes to sit around and take up space. Will they help when it comes to selling them? On a side note. I know to break things that makes it look defective. wink.gif So the 5 deal doesn't bother me. And she's happy. So we have a peaceful home. biggrin.gif
post #24215 of 34945
I've always kept boxes for electronics, in case something needed to be returned for service. Unfortunately that means we have a garage full of boxes, some of them over 20 years old, long after the particular piece of equipment has become junk. And yes, I do hear about it from my wife.

But I have kept boxes for all of my recent AVR and speaker purchases. We will be moving to our retirement home in Florida within the next few years, and I figure the boxes will help everything arrive safely. In a few cases, I have sold speakers online or thru friends and having the original box for shipping has been a benefit.

The situation in our garage has reached the point where I have rented a storage unit.
post #24216 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobLee View Post

I've always kept boxes for electronics, in case something needed to be returned for service..

+1

And as mentioned, buyers love getting things in original boxes, I do.


Hey Rob, happy T-Day.
post #24217 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

I'm currently running my set up without my subs. When I push the display button on the top right hand corner of the remote, it shows me the same thing as you; 5.1 or 7.1 depending on the content in, and 5.0 or 7.0 depending on how I have it selected, out.

Since I run a 7.0 set up, I select Neo 6, and this works well with my set up because I run rears. When I'm running wide's, I run Audyssey DSX.

But what mode are you running? "Direct"? Or are you able to choose "Straight Decode" by hitting one of the listening mode buttons towards the bottom of the remote. That's the part I don't understand...if Straight Decode is what we want, and we can set it as the default listening mode in the main receiver settings, why can't we choose it with the remote once we're actually watching something? Or is the point to choose "Direct," and it acts as the same thing?
post #24218 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by cytoSiN View Post

But what mode are you running? "Direct"? Or are you able to choose "Straight Decode" by hitting one of the listening mode buttons towards the bottom of the remote. That's the part I don't understand...if Straight Decode is what we want, and we can set it as the default listening mode in the main receiver settings, why can't we choose it with the remote once we're actually watching something? Or is the point to choose "Direct," and it acts as the same thing?

I'll have to go in and check to see.
post #24219 of 34945
There's also a ton of footnotes in the "Dolby" section of the manual, which basically says if you have any other settings engaged, you can't manually choose a Dolby or DTS mode. That may explain why we can't specify the Dolby/DTS mode we want with the listening mode buttons. But I still want to be able to choose Straight Decode in some cases, and that's never a choice, except in the default settings. Unless it's the same as Direct, which I doubt, and is unclear in the manual.
post #24220 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG INJUN CHIEF View Post

I had a Yamaha RX-667 in my system for a few years prior to moving on. Great unit, small power supply. YPAO did not like my subs so you may need to calibrate with an SPL meter. I ran the unit with three amps-center-mains and subs. The unit is equipped with pre-outs for 7.2. You can often find them refurb for ~$300 and used for less.

Ok thanks. Yeah that will be a big priority now looking for a receiver with preamp outputs to power my fronts and try to sell the 1513 or just give it to my son n law.
post #24221 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeme View Post

Actually I am using a line level converter and it works well.

Okay, okay. If you add the converter in there, yes you can use those outputs. rolleyes.gif

If you use a speaker to line level converter, he must ensure that he has one that can handle the power his AVR outputs. He must also realize that some degree of distortion is inherent in the conversion. I've seen these used in car audio before as well, but not with an AVR in a home setup due to the higher power output. These bleed off the power by dissipating heat. You have to make sure the resistors in the converter are of adequate size to handle the power.

Thanks for idea. I'm sure a lot of guys will want to try this out for themselves as well.
post #24222 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

Hey Rob, happy T-Day.

Thanks, Geoff... and Happy Thanksgiving all around, for everyone in the US.

I've been scarce around here lately, only stopping in once a week or so.
We're headed to Fla for the holidays soon... Orlando theme parks.
Hoping for decent weather.
post #24223 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by climber07 View Post

Okay, okay. If you add the converter in there, yes you can use those outputs. rolleyes.gif

If you use a speaker to line level converter, he must ensure that he has one that can handle the power his AVR outputs. He must also realize that some degree of distortion is inherent in the conversion. I've seen these used in car audio before as well, but not with an AVR in a home setup due to the higher power output. These bleed off the power by dissipating heat. You have to make sure the resistors in the converter are of adequate size to handle the power.

Thanks for idea. I'm sure a lot of guys will want to try this out for themselves as well.

Yes the one I chose was specifically for the power handling, but it never gets warm to the touch. From the reading ice done a 1/4w resistor is really sufficient.

My understanding is that if I have the gain on the converter fairly high as I do and the gain on my external amp up high as well then the avr will be outputting relatively little power to meet the desired Vol level as compared to driving an actual speaker. If I am not mistaken this one has a divider of one fifth to one fortieth the output of the avr.

Of course as you say any inherit distortion is present and amplified in the external amplifier, but honestly I can't detect any. I tested this with an old koss m105 plus amplifier from an old speaker I had and it definitely has distortion, easily 10-15 percent at moderate Vol...sounded like an FM.radio on fringe signal lol. The Pyle amp I'm using claims .04 percent and I'm inclined to believe its close to that spec than not.

That said, if I crank the avr up to around 45 or so I get a faint hiss from the center (that is being powered by two amp ch bridged). Its too loud to listen to though and hurts my ears badly in my listening area. Previously the hiss was apparent but at an output setting of 29 or above, that setting was not loud enough for my tastes. I suspect this has something to do with the tiny ass psu in the Sony powering All 7 speakers before.

I hope that helps any cheap skates out there :-) the exact model is SLC-4 BY SCOSCHE. My only complaint is that thespeaker wire mints into rather small holes and it is a tiny screw/vise clamp arrangement that grips the wires.


You can see the ceramic resistors in there as the white rectangles.
Edited by pokeme - 11/24/13 at 9:56am
post #24224 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeme View Post

Yes the one I chose was specifically for the power handling, but it never gets warm to the touch. From the reading ice done a 1/4w resistor is really sufficient.

My understanding is that if I have the gain on the converter fairly high as I do and the gain on my external amp up high as well then the avr will be outputting relatively little power to meet the desired Vol level as compared to driving an actual speaker. If I am not mistaken this one has a divider of one fifth to one fortieth the output of the avr.

Of course as you say any inherit distortion is present and amplified in the external amplifier, but honestly I can't detect any. I tested this with an old koss m105 plus amplifier from an old speaker I had and it definitely has distortion, easily 10-15 percent at moderate Vol...sounded like an FM.radio on fringe signal lol. The Pyle amp I'm using claims .04 percent and I'm inclined to believe its close to that spec than not.

That said, if I crank the avr up to around 45 or so I get a faint hiss from the center (that is being powered by two amp ch bridged). Its too loud to listen to though and hurts my ears badly in my listening area. Previously the hiss was apparent but at an output setting of 29 or above, that setting was not loud enough for my tastes. I suspect this has something to do with the tiny ass psu in the Sony powering All 7 speakers before.

I hope that helps any cheap skates out there :-) the exact model is SLC-4 BY SCOSCHE. My only complaint is that thespeaker wire mints into rather small holes and it is a tiny screw/vise clamp arrangement that grips the wires.


You can see the ceramic resistors in there as the white rectangles.

You've hit the nail on the head. I haven't studied audio amps in linear mode very much, but when you convert the signal, the constant resistance offered by the converter allows the AVR amp to operate in a more linear mode as it doesn't have to respond to varying impedance offered by speakers as they reproduce sound across the frequency spectrum.

The high volume hiss is something that I noticed in car audio amps with line level converters (could have been cheap amps too). I've only noticed it without an input sound though (i.e. between tracks and channels). I did, however, noticed a little more clipping of the audio at high volumes, but once again, that could have been cheap components or crappy source material.

All said and done, passive converters are just that. They are very similar, if not identical, to a rheostat or variable resistor for volume control.

Your converter is a nice one as it has output level adjustments. That is critical in my book.
post #24225 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by cytoSiN View Post

There's also a ton of footnotes in the "Dolby" section of the manual, which basically says if you have any other settings engaged, you can't manually choose a Dolby or DTS mode. That may explain why we can't specify the Dolby/DTS mode we want with the listening mode buttons. But I still want to be able to choose Straight Decode in some cases, and that's never a choice, except in the default settings. Unless it's the same as Direct, which I doubt, and is unclear in the manual.

I went through my menu and I don't have any straight decode option. I have my set up for pass through via HDMI. Your 818 is a few models newer than my 807 so this must be a function added after mine.
post #24226 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

I went through my menu and I don't have any straight decode option. I have my set up for pass through via HDMI. Your 818 is a few models newer than my 807 so this must be a function added after mine.

Does your AVR remain "ON" when you have the HDMI pass through enabled? The 3009/5009s use quite a bit of power in "standby" (45W continuous) when HDMI is enabled.
post #24227 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

I went through my menu and I don't have any straight decode option. I have my set up for pass through via HDMI. Your 818 is a few models newer than my 807 so this must be a function added after mine.

OK, thanks for checking. I'll head over to the 818 owner's thread and see what I can see there. The hissing is gone, but the mystery of "Straight Decode" is still annoying me!
post #24228 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by climber07 View Post

Does your AVR remain "ON" when you have the HDMI pass through enabled? The 3009/5009s use quite a bit of power in "standby" (45W continuous) when HDMI is enabled.

You mean when I'm through with the movie and turn everything off? It's in standby with the red light on.
post #24229 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff4RFC View Post

You mean when I'm through with the movie and turn everything off? It's in standby with the red light on.

Yeah, with everything off. Mine stays in standby mode with HDMI through set to ON. I disabled it. It's like leaving a 45W light on 24/7. biggrin.gif
post #24230 of 34945
Hey guys,I need entertainment, my Thanksgiving was a while ago ;-)
post #24231 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeme View Post

Hey guys,I need entertainment, my Thanksgiving was a while ago ;-)


Here ya go. Have fun!

 

http://pbskids.org/catinthehat/games/clatterclang.html

post #24232 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post


Here ya go. Have fun!

http://pbskids.org/catinthehat/games/clatterclang.html

Ha! I just ended up watching some Top Gear with the kids :-)
post #24233 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeme View Post

Ha! I just ended up watching some Top Gear with the kids :-)

The original, I hope. I can't stand the US ripoff.
post #24234 of 34945
Yes, the original :-) the US version is horrible. I know enough about north American culture too, and the British humour is fun to explain to the kids.
post #24235 of 34945
So, I was able to buy 2 Outlaw M2200 for my front right/left, and 1 Outlaw M200 amps to power my front three. However, super duper FedEx delivery guy was able to put a triangular hole to the M200 box, and the amp rondomly turns off. Luckily, the shipper put insurance on it, but now I've been given the run around with FedEx. I sent them all the necessary information they've wanted and tomorrow will start the 2nd week for my open claim, which for some reason or another is still under investigation.

I'm hoping they refund the money so I can find another M200/M2200 to power my center channel.
post #24236 of 34945
I picked up some Monitor 60s and a CS1 to replace my old front soundstage. Monitor 40s are on the Xmas list. Does anyone have an AVR or processor and amp recommendations? I currently have an Onkyo TX-NR515. I'm running a 7.2 with 2 PSW505s. I'm about 90% movies/tv and 10% gaming. Assume a budget of $1500, which may disqualify discrete processors and amps. Thanks for your advice.
post #24237 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by rliebherr View Post

I picked up some Monitor 60s and a CS1 to replace my old front soundstage. Monitor 40s are on the Xmas list. Does anyone have an AVR or processor and amp recommendations? I currently have an Onkyo TX-NR515. I'm running a 7.2 with 2 PSW505s. I'm about 90% movies/tv and 10% gaming. Assume a budget of $1500, which may disqualify discrete processors and amps. Thanks for your advice.

 

Since you have dual subs I'd go for a receiver with Audyssey XT32. The Denon AVR-4311 would be a good choice. It will EQ dual subs. Refurbs a grand or new on amazon. The refurb only has a year warranty but there is an option to buy an extended warranty which would still put it at a lesser cost than new. Look around and see if you can find it at a lower price but make sure they are an authorized Denon seller.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Denon-AVR-4311CI-Channel-Multi-Room-Receiver/dp/B0042KVX2S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1385356350&sr=1-1&keywords=denon+4311

 

http://www.accessories4less.com//make-a-store/item/DENAVR4311CI/DENON-AVR-4311CI-9.2-Channel-Network-Home-Theater-Receiver/1.html?c=t5

post #24238 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus748s View Post

So, I was able to buy 2 Outlaw M2200 for my front right/left, and 1 Outlaw M200 amps to power my front three. However, super duper FedEx delivery guy was able to put a triangular hole to the M200 box, and the amp rondomly turns off. Luckily, the shipper put insurance on it, but now I've been given the run around with FedEx. I sent them all the necessary information they've wanted and tomorrow will start the 2nd week for my open claim, which for some reason or another is still under investigation.

I'm hoping they refund the money so I can find another M200/M2200 to power my center channel.

I've read more horror stories about folks having trouble with FedEx and their insurance claims. Hope you can get them to pay up Gus. That really sucks.

post #24239 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

I've read more horror stories about folks having trouble with FedEx and their insurance claims. Hope you can get them to pay up Gus. That really sucks.

I hope so too. I will call them to check on the status tomorrow.
post #24240 of 34945
Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus748s View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by XStanleyX View Post

I've read more horror stories about folks having trouble with FedEx and their insurance claims. Hope you can get them to pay up Gus. That really sucks.

I hope so too. I will call them to check on the status tomorrow.
I hope everything works out for you Gus. I hate shipping claims..
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