Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 111

Originally Posted by OhioMike

Great deal!! The RTi10's on BOGO is a steal and who can say no to free speakers. Don't know if I would use them as surrounds, but heck, you can E-bay them to pay for your surrounds. The A6 should match up fine...not a bullseye, but you shouldn't here the difference. Where was this at again, I might drive a long way for those RTi10's at that price

Originally Posted by vinipux77

They seem to be nice deals, but the difference is in warranty. Yes, you do get support from Polk (unlike from so many others falsely advertising that on 'Bay), but read the fine print. The terms may be different for refurbs on 'Bay vs. buying new.

edit: I found the details, I think. "Remanufactured" vs. "Refurbished" and a corresponding 5-year vs. 180-day warranty. Still much better than no warranty at all.

Originally Posted by metal83

Wow so the same set is RM10, just without the sub. That is a great deal, i just wish they had them in black like the ones i was going to buy. Do you have any recommendations on Good subs for these speakers. I know nothing about subs so if you gave me a few good ones to look at i would appreciate it. Thanks.

P.S. Whats wrong with the sub that comes with it?

1 - 10" Diameter (25.40cm)
Polymer Composite
Power Output 65 watts
Dynamic Power Output 130 watts

Are those bad specs for a sub?

Originally Posted by zyren

amazon does have them in black. i bought the black set ogf 5 two days ago. they are currently out of stock at amazon but you can get them for $215 from the alternate vendors off amazons website. JR is $230.

as for the sub, amazons description is wrong. it doesnt come with one. they are confusing themselves with the bundle that does come with one.

Originally Posted by OhioMike

Ron,
With Brit's situation:
The thing I'm wondering here is with the receiver, Onkyo 606. My 605 with Audessey will only let you crossover the LFE up to 120hz, so is he going to be able to set the RM8 down to 120 and still be alright? Will he maybe just have to bypass the LFE and go RCA to be able to use the Subs X-over which will probably allow at least 150hz?

Originally Posted by OhioMike

Not the Rti10's. I was speaking of the Atriums that you got for free. I don't think they would work well as surrounds due to their rugged appearance. But you hadn't planned on using them anyway. Like I said though, you could E-bay them to finance your future FXi upgrades.
Alright, I might not drive that far. I don't believe they exsist in the Midwest.

Originally Posted by arsenic0

Bastage I just ordered my 4 M50's for Front&Rear and am dying to set them up...your setup looks good

PS - You do know you can remove that sticker on the TV right? You cant sticker charge your TV like you can Honda's.

Originally Posted by IrishLegend

So if I find some deals from the Polk-Audio-Direct ebay store would it be worth it even though the warranty isn't as long?
I'm thinking I might be able to get some Monitor 60's on Polk-Audio-Direct for the same price as brand new Monitor 50's.
What do you guys think?

Originally Posted by IrishLegend

Anyone?

Originally Posted by Ron Temple

britdiver,

After OhioMike's post I re-examined my sub suggestions. I was talking with Chad from Epik today and it seems his Calibre is flat to ~ 130hz. It's a very large cabinet, but for about the same price as 2 STF2s you can hook the sub up via the high level inputs and use the crossover on the sub (up to 150hz). You'll also gain massive SPL with a sub appropriate to your room size and get extention down to the mid teens. Considering your AVRs crossover limitation of 120hz, I think this is a great solution. I asked him about the Knight too, but he said the Calibre is flatter up top.

Originally Posted by britdiver

Thank God you and OhioMike are on the ball! What would I do without you guys. Man that's a big box. But it's time for a newbie stupid question. I was planning on using the BJC LC-1 RCA cable to hook up my sub (or subs). So what is "via high level inputs"? I looked at the Epik website (not great tell them) looking for a manual to download and look at the hookup diagrams, but couldn't find one. Also I have seen talk of SPL. What exactly is it?

P.S. Ron. Are you in the speaker or home theater business?

Originally Posted by OhioMike

Hey Peter,
First, first....yes, you do want the x-over on direct. This will allow for your receiver to set the cut-off for the sub.

To answer the other part....I kind of got cold feet about my system yesterday and returned it before my 30 days were up. This included the 70's..CS2..and DPS-10. I just started feeling as if, even though I really loved the set-up, it just wasn't right for me. I loved the way the system handled music, but I never listen to music in the theater except to test out the speakers. I just got the feeling that I didn't need the monster 70's for my particular interests. So..then I didn't need the CS2 and I bought it all as a package with special financing and the return of those left me without the special financing on the sub and so back it went.
So...now I am looking into some other options from a few manufacturers, which may still include Polk, I've been nothing but happy with the ones I've had and love being a part of this Polk thread.
Right now is kind of sucking in my HT since the return...I had already sold my CS1 so I am left with a 4.1ch set-up with my 50's and 30's and my extra Yamaha sub. Not really diggin the "phantom center".
So..right now I am just going to sell my 30's and use the 50's in a 2ch stereo set-up in the living room or bedroom, just for music listening(I would just sell them but shipping costs make it pointless) while I search for a new set-up. I am just that guy who is never satisfied with what he's got and always lookin' over the fence at all the greener pastures on the other side and I always slide further down the rabbit hole because of it. It is my curse and I made peace with it long ago.

Originally Posted by dixlon

Hello to all,

I posted in the past my wife and are building our new home and that we will have a HT room (dims 20x13.8x10 ) with full carpet. The system driving the speakers are: [b]Emotiva XPA-5 Amp
Outlaw Audio 2200 monoblocks (2)
Onkyo 885 PrePro
SVS PB12-Plus sub
I narrowed my speaker choice between the LSi series (LSi15's Towers, LSiC Center Channel and 4 LSiFX surrounds) and the Axiom (M80 Towers, 2 pair QS8 Surrounds and the VP150 Center Channel)

The room will have a 50 inch Pioneer plasma (5020) and will only use the tv for Blu-ray and HD-DVD watching > 50% use and the other 50% for music.

Do you guys like my 7.1 LSi setup?

Thanks for your advice.

Regards,

Kirk

Originally Posted by britdiver

Thank God you and OhioMike are on the ball! What would I do without you guys. Man that's a big box. But it's time for a newbie stupid question. I was planning on using the BJC LC-1 RCA cable to hook up my sub (or subs). So what is "via high level inputs"? I looked at the Epik website (not great tell them) looking for a manual to download and look at the hookup diagrams, but couldn't find one. Also I have seen talk of SPL. What exactly is it?

P.S. Ron. Are you in the speaker or home theater business?

Edit: Found something on the High Level Inputs in a HSU manual and firstly they recommend RCA over the HLI. Also I looked in the manual for the 606 and I didn't see any other way to hook up a subwoofer other than RCA.

Originally Posted by OhioMike

So..right now I am just going to sell my 30's and use the 50's in a 2ch stereo set-up in the living room or bedroom, just for music listening(I would just sell them but shipping costs make it pointless)

Originally Posted by Ron Temple

Most subs have both line level and high level input/outputs. For most the line level is the best way to connect your sub. Just an rca cable from the AVR pre-out to the sub input. However, if you need a really high crossover and your AVR can't offer you a high enough xover point, then the high level connection method is there for you. What you do is connect your L/R fronts speaker wire into the L/R high level inputs on the sub. You then connect speaker wire from your sub high level outputs to your L/R speakers. You set the sub crossover to the appropriate level (in your case 140hz). You set the front speakers to full band or large on the AVR. The sub then handles everything from 140hz down and your fronts get the rest of the signal. It's also recommended when you are running a music first stereo sub setup.

No I'm not in the business. Just know enough to not be too dangerous.

As far as the size of the Epik...yup, it's huge. The AV123 sub I talked about yesterday (MFW15) is another excellent sub that's not quite as big that will probably work fine as well. The Hsu 3.3 is an excellent sub too, but I think it's got the same crossover scheme as the STF 2...90hz tops. They sell a midbass module that will work well in conjunction with it that handles 50hz to 200hz, but it's another $500. You might want to give them a call and ask if there is a work around.

The reason I suggested Epik was because I asked. We were talking about something else. They make great subs that are suited to large rooms for a reasonable price.

SPL is sound pressure level and it corresponds to output which is measured in decibels (dbs).

Originally Posted by ajstan99

Mike - try craigslist. Post on both Cleveland and Akron. The buyer would come and pick them up. No shipping and you get cash. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.