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Calling all Polkies:Official Polk thread - Page 23

post #661 of 18623
6/7/07 at 8:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlowie View Post

You can look at the B-Tech line of brackets as they are very sturdy (the B-77 holds 25kgs!) and allow the speaker to be wall mounted and still be off of the wall. I think Crutch***d carries them.

Cool, thanks very much. An angle would be nice anyway so I can aim them at my listening position easier. I keep finding some r15s on ebay but the price always gets jacked up on them towards the end of the auction so I have a feeling the demand is still pretty high.

Few more quick questions. Is the rear port in the bottom of the speaker or at the top? Also, how far does the port have to be from the wall for optimal sound? If it's at the bottom, am I able to flip the speaker since the design is a reverse of the r15s or would that screw with things too much?

Thanks again.
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post #662 of 18623
6/7/07 at 9:02pm
I'd have to check the Polk website but the older RTi line I am using utilizes their 'power port' technology which has a bracket on the rear over the port which acts to equally dissipate the air flow coming from the port. I do believe that all speakers need to be away from walls to sound their best. I can't practice that personally as I share my den with my wife and kids

Just got off the Polk site and based on their shots they show the R15 with a front port. Though there is no shot of the rear of the cabinet, I can't see them building a speaker with a front AND rear port.
http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/specs/r15/
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post #663 of 18623
6/7/07 at 9:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Temple View Post

There are many speakers that can be classified as brighter than the Polks. Even the Rtis, the brightest, I'd classify neutral to warm, except for the tweeters. They are designed to excel in HT and do a great job...very dynamic. For music the tweeters can get a bit out of control to my ears.

Thanks for the info, I heard the monitor series at CC. Took my "Letters from Iwo Jima" HD DVD and I pretty much liked what I heard. I've decided that I will get the following set-up.

Fronts and surrounds- Monitor 40's
Center- CS2

BTW Ron you would classify the RTis as the brightest, so the monitors are not as bright then? My main use would be for 98.9% Movies/TV viewing, are these a good choice for HT?
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post #664 of 18623
6/7/07 at 9:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlowie View Post

I'd have to check the Polk website but the older RTi line I am using utilizes their 'power port' technology which has a bracket on the rear over the port which acts to equally dissipate the air flow coming from the port. I do believe that all speakers need to be away from walls to sound their best. I can't practice that personally as I share my den with my wife and kids

Just got off the Polk site and based on their shots they show the R15 with a front port. Though there is no shot of the rear of the cabinet, I can't see them building a speaker with a front AND rear port.
http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/specs/r15/

Sorry if my post was confusing since I kept switching models. By the rear port I was referring to the r150s. They're way easier to get now that the r15s are gone so I'd love to use those if possible but i'm worried because my setup may require having the speaker backed up to a wall.

What is effected if I have to cover up the rear port for placement purposes? Is it just low end? I'm hoping that's the case because I can make up for that with the sub unlike mids or highs.
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post #665 of 18623
6/8/07 at 7:51am
Alright, so i have skimmed/read through the thread twice now.
Also read a little at polks forums as well

I have a few questions, as i previously posted on the page before i have the R50s and 4 RTi4s that i plan on using for a 7.1 setup. I am also building the exact same setup for my parents new home theater so my questions are really two fold.

I know the CSi25 is supposed to be the match for the R50s and that it is discontinued. I have read varrying opinions that the CSi3 and CSi5(particularly the 5) are overkill for the R50s. And that the CSi5 apparetly makes more bass than the R50s, not sure i entirely believe that, i have only heard the CSi5 once, and frys didnt have the R50s to match them with it.
So if i did get the CSi5 is it going to overkill with the R50s, or can i tweak it enough to get it to match better. I do plan on eventually upgrading from the R50s, but my parents setup will virtually be the same indefinitely. So i should i got CSi3 for their setup(on the other hand their room is on the larger side) and CSi5 for mine since i plan on eventually going to RTi8's or better?

My other question is i am considering the Onkyo 705 at 100watts/ch, is 100wpc going to be enough to power all of them together?
I currently have my R50s hooked up to an old old aiwa 125/w amp just for music listening and the 125 watts really opens them up at higher volumes, but the RTi4s definitely suffered at louder volumes at 125watts.
I'll probably do 50/50 music and home theater and when i listen to music i do like to crank it up, so is 100watts for the R50s going to generate clipping or distortion?

Thanks for the help in advance.
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post #666 of 18623
6/8/07 at 10:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by captive View Post

Alright, so i have skimmed/read through the thread twice now.
Also read a little at polks forums as well

I have a few questions, as i previously posted on the page before i have the R50s and 4 RTi4s that i plan on using for a 7.1 setup. I am also building the exact same setup for my parents new home theater so my questions are really two fold.

I know the CSi25 is supposed to be the match for the R50s and that it is discontinued. I have read varrying opinions that the CSi3 and CSi5(particularly the 5) are overkill for the R50s. And that the CSi5 apparetly makes more bass than the R50s, not sure i entirely believe that, i have only heard the CSi5 once, and frys didnt have the R50s to match them with it.
So if i did get the CSi5 is it going to overkill with the R50s, or can i tweak it enough to get it to match better. I do plan on eventually upgrading from the R50s, but my parents setup will virtually be the same indefinitely. So i should i got CSi3 for their setup(on the other hand their room is on the larger side) and CSi5 for mine since i plan on eventually going to RTi8's or better?

My other question is i am considering the Onkyo 705 at 100watts/ch, is 100wpc going to be enough to power all of them together?
I currently have my R50s hooked up to an old old aiwa 125/w amp just for music listening and the 125 watts really opens them up at higher volumes, but the RTi4s definitely suffered at louder volumes at 125watts.
I'll probably do 50/50 music and home theater and when i listen to music i do like to crank it up, so is 100watts for the R50s going to generate clipping or distortion?

Thanks for the help in advance.

I used to run R50s with a CSi3 with no problem...the 5 is a better speaker and I think it will work for you. You might have to notch it down a couple of dbs for it not to dominate the front soundstage. The Onkyo will be fine. The Rs are 89 or 90db sensitivity so you should be able to achieve the low 100s ~ 64wpc. Wouldn't try for 105 though...it will clip. The RTis will play a bit louder than the Rs, so make sure they are balanced and calibrated.

I doubt the Aiwa is really putting out anywhere close to 125watts...be careful with this...it might damage the speakers.
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post #667 of 18623
6/8/07 at 11:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Temple View Post

I used to run R50s with a CSi3 with no problem...the 5 is a better speaker and I think it will work for you. You might have to notch it down a couple of dbs for it not to dominate the front soundstage. The Onkyo will be fine. The Rs are 89 or 90db sensitivity so you should be able to achieve the low 100s ~ 64wpc. Wouldn't try for 105 though...it will clip. The RTis will play a bit louder than the Rs, so make sure they are balanced and calibrated.

I doubt the Aiwa is really putting out anywhere close to 125watts...be careful with this...it might damage the speakers.

Great, thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I think ill go with the CSi5 for me and just see what my dad wants to do for his center.

About that aiwa, yea i dont know the power rating of it, i just checked the wattage before i hooked up the RTi4s to it just to be sure, and they do start to distort at louder volumes on that amp. But the R50s sound amazing, i got them loud enough to make me want to turn it back down because it was too loud but at that volume there wasnt any sign of distortion or clipping.

Anyway, do you or anyone else have any advice for wallhanging the RTi4s, and stands for them? My dads are going to wallhang, but i want mine on stands since i dont feel like putting holes in the wall because ill be moving within a year.
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post #668 of 18623
6/8/07 at 12:12pm
Just had to share something cool about Polk...

As stated in my post back in May, I nabbed a fat set of Polk speakers from my local Tweeter store that was closing. The Rti12s I got were floor models with a few cosmetic issues. The feet on one tower were broken, but I talked them into swapping parts with their floor model RTi8s which is the same bracket/feet. Also, the gray plastic pieces at the top of the grilles were missing (they are not removable, so I'm gussing one broke and they took off the other one to make it match). I was going to just flip the grille, but it turns out that the grille posts are not symmetrical vertically.

Anyway, I called Polk customer service and they are hooking me up with a new pair of grilles, no cost, no hassle. Didn't think I could be any more of a Polk fan but I was wrong! That's how you do business (assuming they show up and are the right part ).

realjeep
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post #669 of 18623
6/8/07 at 12:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by realjeep View Post

Just had to share something cool about Polk...

As stated in my post back in May, I nabbed a fat set of Polk speakers from my local Tweeter store that was closing. The Rti12s I got were floor models with a few cosmetic issues. The feet on one tower were broken, but I talked them into swapping parts with their floor model RTi8s which is the same bracket/feet. Also, the gray plastic pieces at the top of the grilles were missing (they are not removable, so I'm gussing one broke and they took off the other one to make it match). I was going to just flip the grille, but it turns out that the grille posts are not symmetrical vertically.

Anyway, I called Polk customer service and they are hooking me up with a new pair of grilles, no cost, no hassle. Didn't think I could be any more of a Polk fan but I was wrong! That's how you do business (assuming they show up and are the right part ).

realjeep

Good to know. I also got a great deal on polk products at a tweeter that was closing. I paid a total of around $600 for an LSiC center speaker and a pair of Fxi5 surrounds. I haven't had any problems with these speakers but its good to know polk stands by their products.
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post #670 of 18623
6/9/07 at 1:55pm
Hello there I am very new here, and fairly new to the home theatre world, hence my question. My new setup is a 58inch panasonic 700u plasma, Lsi15's towers, lsi-c center, lc80i in wall rears, velodyne sub. I have been waiting for the new onkyo 875 series reciever or the 3808 denon to push this system, I have heard and searched that a amp is well needed to push this system, I didnt fit the amp into my budget, is the amp needed? Also what is a good affordable amp, how much watts do in need? Thank you in advance

Jason
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post #671 of 18623
6/9/07 at 3:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by trxjwb View Post

Hello there I am very new here, and fairly new to the home theatre world, hence my question. My new setup is a 58inch panasonic 700u plasma, Lsi15's towers, lsi-c center, lc80i in wall rears, velodyne sub. I have been waiting for the new onkyo 875 series reciever or the 3808 denon to push this system, I have heard and searched that a amp is well needed to push this system, I didnt fit the amp into my budget, is the amp needed? Also what is a good affordable amp, how much watts do in need? Thank you in advance

Jason

You'll need a receiver that's 4 ohm stable to drive the LSis. The Denon is rated to 6 ohms and will probably work if not driven too hard. You can take a big load off the receivers by picking up a used 2 or 3 channel amp that can drive 4 ohm speakers all day without heating up...won't break the bank (depending on your budget) $350 - 800 depending on how many channels and vintage value. Adcom 555s are popular, Carvers, Rotel, Outlaw, Parasound, there's a ton. I'd recommend at least 200watts @ 4ohms, but I personally have a couple of 2 channel amps, a Carver TFM35 and a Luxman M117 that can push 400 that can still be picked up for under $400...both excellent.

I'd go with the receiver first...listen at moderate levels...make sure it's got great ventilation. Then I'd start looking for a bargain 2 or 3 channel amp.
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post #672 of 18623
6/9/07 at 3:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Temple View Post

You'll need a receiver that's 4 ohm stable to drive the LSis. The Denon is rated to 6 ohms and will probably work if not driven too hard. You can take a big load off the receivers by picking up a used 2 or 3 channel amp that can drive 4 ohm speakers all day without heating up...won't break the bank (depending on your budget) $350 - 800 depending on how many channels and vintage value. Adcom 555s are popular, Carvers, Rotel, Outlaw, Parasound, there's a ton. I'd recommend at least 200watts @ 4ohms, but I personally have a couple of 2 channel amps, a Carver TFM35 and a Luxman M117 that can push 400 that can still be picked up for under $400...both excellent.

I'd go with the receiver first...listen at moderate levels...make sure it's got great ventilation. Then I'd start looking for a bargain 2 or 3 channel amp.

Thanks for the advice, do you know of any bargain places for the outlaw 7075 amp?
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post #673 of 18623
6/10/07 at 11:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bruss View Post

mind posting the model of your amp? how does it rate to crown? i have read the crowns can be noisy. Is yours very noisy?

awesome feedback.. i love this site

Mine is the cheapo Samson 1800 XT, I think, or 1800 X or something like that. It's the one at Sam Ash that is 400 watts per channel @ 8 ohm, 600 @4 ohm, 2 channel. It has a fan, and it is noisy enough that I recently relocated it to a less obvious position, and am now very happy with any fan noise.
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post #674 of 18623
6/10/07 at 4:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by trxjwb View Post

Thanks for the advice, do you know of any bargain places for the outlaw 7075 amp?

Audiogon, ebay, craigslist...also join Club Polk, contribute awhile (it's considered bad form to join just to buy/sell gear and you'll hear about it you do), then check out the Flea Market and WTB forums...good gear gets swapped around at bargain prices for upstanding members.
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post #675 of 18623
6/10/07 at 8:26pm
Hi All,

I just picked up a RM7600 set for really cheap in perfect condition. The piano finish matches my Samsung flat panel finish perfectly. I haven't hooked them up yet and would like to mount them to the wall. Anyone familiar with this set? What would would be the best way to mount them? Should I use the existing hole on the back of the speaker port? Or should I buy mounts and if so which mounts should I get that will still keep the speakers fairly close to the wall?

For anyone not familiar with these speakers (I believe they are no longer available):

4 RM4300 Satellite Speakers
1 RM4600 Center Channel
1 PSW650 Subwoofer
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post #676 of 18623
6/10/07 at 9:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by realjeep View Post

Just had to share something cool about Polk...

Anyway, I called Polk customer service and they are hooking me up with a new pair of grilles, no cost, no hassle. Didn't think I could be any more of a Polk fan but I was wrong! That's how you do business (assuming they show up and are the right part ).

realjeep

I had a mismatch in the emblems as the RTi55's I am using had a different color emblem than the rest of my set (CSi40, FXi30's, RTi38's). I sent an email to Polk's CS from their site and less than 24 hours later I got a 'phone call ' asking me where they could send the newer style emblems to. They also gave me advice on how to remove the old ones with out damaging the the grill cloth. Above and beyond.
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post #677 of 18623
6/12/07 at 4:18pm
I was planning on getting a pair of RTi-10's to use with the new Onkyo TX-SR805 which is rated at 130 watts per channel with the ability to bi-amp since you can use two of the channels if you don't need 7.1 to bi-amp the front speakers. I'm really new to this but I was wondering if that would be enough power to drive the 10's properly. I understand that bi-amping isn't really like giving the speakers 260 watts, but is it more than 130 watts? I'll be using these with a CSi-5 and a pair of RTi-6's in the rear. I'll also be using a PSW-505 sub (I know there are better options out there but I get a vender accomodation on Polk speakers). I'd say I use this setup much more for movies than music, so let me know if the RTi-8's are a better option given the power I can give the front speakers.
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post #678 of 18623
6/12/07 at 5:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by satishreddy2 View Post

I was planning on getting a pair of RTi-10's to use with the new Onkyo TX-SR805 which is rated at 130 watts per channel with the ability to bi-amp since you can use two of the channels if you don't need 7.1 to bi-amp the front speakers. I'm really new to this but I was wondering if that would be enough power to drive the 10's properly. I understand that bi-amping isn't really like giving the speakers 260 watts, but is it more than 130 watts? I'll be using these with a CSi-5 and a pair of RTi-6's in the rear. I'll also be using a PSW-505 sub (I know there are better options out there but I get a vender accomodation on Polk speakers). I'd say I use this setup much more for movies than music, so let me know if the RTi-8's are a better option given the power I can give the front speakers.

You'll get different stories as to whether the 10s are better than the 8s...you'll have to use your ears. You'll want to crossover the 8s anyway, so yes, you'll get more pop from the Onk with them. The 10s are easily driven with the Onk...they'll just sound better if you give them more power. The benefits of bi-amping from the Zone 2 of a receiver are debatable...same power supply/reserve. A nice powerful, used 2 channel amp will improve the 10s and get the woofers moving.

Personally, I'd go with the 10s and add an amp downstream.
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post #679 of 18623
6/13/07 at 8:44pm
below
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post #680 of 18623
6/13/07 at 8:57pm
Well I just pre ordered my Onkyo 875 with JR, my system is almost complete, my next questions is Dvd player, blue ray or Hd, oppo, toshiba, samsung blue ray...bit pricey, I hear the reon processor will help out alot, I dont want to buy options I dont need. My system consist of a panasonic 58 inch 700u, polk Lsi-15's towers, lsi-c center, Lc80i rears, velodyne sub, and of course my new Onkyo 875.

Also my amp choice is narrowed down to the outlaw 7125, good pick??????

Also cables, monoprice, bluejeans, what gauge?????????

Power conditioner, monster, whats enough?????????????

Dvd player, oppo, toshiba, Hd, blue ray...??????????

Outlaw 7125, is it going to be enough??????????

Thanks in advance

jason
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post #681 of 18623
6/14/07 at 10:55am
Hi all,

Finally got a new 605 onkyo receiver and want a new 5.1 set.. Looking at Polks. Budget is in the $500-$600 range. So far I have looked at:

RM10 5-Pack Front/Surround/Center Speakers $485.99 at Crutchfield
PSW12 12" 100W sub - $219.99 at Crutchfield

Any comments on this setup? Any other recommendations under this $700 pricetag? Thanks.
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post #682 of 18623
6/14/07 at 11:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Temple View Post

You'll get different stories as to whether the 10s are better than the 8s...you'll have to use your ears. You'll want to crossover the 8s anyway, so yes, you'll get more pop from the Onk with them. The 10s are easily driven with the Onk...they'll just sound better if you give them more power. The benefits of bi-amping from the Zone 2 of a receiver are debatable...same power supply/reserve. A nice powerful, used 2 channel amp will improve the 10s and get the woofers moving.

Personally, I'd go with the 10s and add an amp downstream.

I already have the RTI10s and kind of in a similar situation. I just picked up a Denon 4306 which is also 130w. I only use 5.1 so I was also going to consider using the Denon to bi-amp the fronts. I am currently powering the 10s with Outlaw 2200 monoblocks but could really use the free rack room.

But, from what you are saying my 10s would sound a lot better leaving the Outlaw monoblocks powering them than trying to bi-amp the Denon?
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post #683 of 18623
6/14/07 at 12:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rkgriffin View Post

I already have the RTI10s and kind of in a similar situation. I just picked up a Denon 4306 which is also 130w. I only use 5.1 so I was also going to consider using the Denon to bi-amp the fronts. I am currently powering the 10s with Outlaw 2200 monoblocks but could really use the free rack room.

But, from what you are saying my 10s would sound a lot better leaving the Outlaw monoblocks powering them than trying to bi-amp the Denon?

I kinda wonder if you'd notice a benefit with the monos because that's a ballzy receiver with great SQ (I've been told). I've never tried the bi-amping route with a receiver, but logically, to me anyway, 2 amps sharing the same power supply is going to draw down the overall headroom. I've read comments from some who have and noticed no difference and some who claim they have...might depend on listening levels and speaker sensitivity.

My comment about the Outlaws is due to some members over at CP feeling that they're not any more musical...more headroom sure...but no perceptible difference in SQ. The amps I own all have improved the SQ considerably. Hearsay...sure...I'm sure there are a ton of Outlaw owners that disagree, but your receiver already has excellent SQ...I'd want a bump when I add an amp(s).

Used, I'd look at Adcom, Carver, Rotel, Parasound, B&K, etc. with that 200wpc plus sweetspot. I know that Carvers match very well with RTis...warm + bright = just right .
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post #684 of 18623
6/14/07 at 2:22pm
Hey guys, I had four R150s arrive a few days ago and my new CSi3 just came today so looks like I'm officially joining you. I'm going to be picking up some RTi6's most likely to finish off the system, but for now I have my yamaha floorstanders as a temporary solution.

Now that I know I'm dealing with r150s it looks like I will have to back them up against the wall because of placement issues so my original questions stand. How much will this effect the sound quality of my rear surrounds (everything else placed properly). Will the speaker sound muffled or will it only effect the bass it produces? Will I notice much difference since I have a sub producing lows?

Also, will 110w x 7 be enough to drive this system for now?

Thanks!
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post #685 of 18623
6/14/07 at 4:16pm
Question - should I set my RT12 front towers to large or small on my receiver? I have a sub which its sending everything to 90 Hz.
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post #686 of 18623
6/14/07 at 4:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawg90 View Post

Question - should I set my RT12 front towers to large or small on my receiver? I have a sub which its sending everything to 90 Hz.

Generally, for HT, small and cutting at 60 or 80 would be fine. For music, the 12s are pretty much full range...if you have the juice to make them move, I'd at least try them large without the sub...see which you like better.
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post #687 of 18623
6/15/07 at 5:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Temple View Post

Generally, for HT, small and cutting at 60 or 80 would be fine. For music, the 12s are pretty much full range...if you have the juice to make them move, I'd at least try them large without the sub...see which you like better.

Cool thanks! My receiver will only do 90 Hz crossover.
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post #688 of 18623
6/15/07 at 8:15am
I just joined the ranks of the Polkies (and home theater) yesterday with the arrival of my R50 fronts, CS1 center and R150 surrounds. Now I just have a long wait until Tuesday for the HK AVR240 (refurb) to set it all up, and I've no idea yet when my Hsu VTF-3 MK3 will arrive. I've got to thank Ron in particular for his wealth of knowledge and experience with Polk speakers. His advice was most helpful in making my purchasing decisions.

After looking over this thread, I have the same question as Blk98Bird about wall mounting the R150s. The "manual" for the R150s seems to indicate that they could/should be mounted flush to the wall but elsewhere (in this thread?) I recall it being mentioned about having a little space behind the speaker due to the rear porting. I'm a little confused why Polk would suggest having them flush mounted if sound quality suffered. Anyone have practical experience with the R150 wall mounting?
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post #689 of 18623
6/15/07 at 9:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawg90 View Post

Cool thanks! My receiver will only do 90 Hz crossover.

Then small and 90 it will have to be...you could also try large with the sub set to LFE + mains which might bloat the bass, but try it anyway, just so you know.
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post #690 of 18623
6/15/07 at 9:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dtown_Greg View Post

After looking over this thread, I have the same question as Blk98Bird about wall mounting the R150s. The "manual" for the R150s seems to indicate that they could/should be mounted flush to the wall but elsewhere (in this thread?) I recall it being mentioned about having a little space behind the speaker due to the rear porting. I'm a little confused why Polk would suggest having them flush mounted if sound quality suffered. Anyone have practical experience with the R150 wall mounting?

Greg, I think you should give Polk CS a call about that rear port...it might only cut the FR a few hz...for surrounds, no biggie. My own experience with rear ported speakers is that at loud volumes with especially deep bass, quite a bit of air gets pushed...launched a speaker off a mantle once and there was 4" clearance. Ask about port chuffing...get their rec...
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