Before I attempted this repair, I called a local mirror and glass shop. They recommended using RTV Silicone. It can be purchased at an auto supply store. It is typically used to bond parts in engines and can withstand very high heat.
I bought the tube below for approx $5.00
It is an EXCELLENT substance to work with. It almost has the consistency of toothpase. I was able to apply it easily with a very controlled spread. In addition, it is gray so I knew exactly where it was being applied.
I would recommend using a toothpick to apply the RTV Silicone. Start with very small amounts and spread it in the joints of the light tube.
As per jikkme's post above (post #31), you want to make sure that there is no extra adhesive which will cause the light tube to sit improperly, causing the same dark band (or a new one on the top or bottom). Therefore, what you'll want to do is remove any excess adhesive. Take the side of your toothpick and run it along your seam. If you find that there is a lot of extra adhesive, I would suggest doing a small section at a time so that the extra adhesive doesn't smear onto the sides of your light tube.
And here's the finished tube...EXTRA TIPSREMOVING LENS RINGS
See SuperGoop's thread on fixing dust blobs for a great pictorial/tutorial on removing the focus and zoom rings
. After you get them off, come back to this thread because you do not need to remove the lens to repair the light tube.COLOR WHEEL
If you are doing this repair alone, it would help to fashion a "hanging device" to hold the color wheel. I used a standard sized paperclip and using needle nosed pliers, I fish-hooked one end so that it could hook into a screw hole in the color wheel mounting plate. I hooked the other end on a nearby metal cover. I only bent this second end of the paperclip 45 degrees so that it would be easy to unhook. The paperclip is just the right length.
Be VERY CAREFUL moving and working around the color wheel.
Something went wrong with my re-assembly and when I fired up the projector to test, something caught the wheel and a piece came off. Fortunately, it was only one piece of the wheel that flew off and it didn't crack (*whew!*), so I was able to crazy glue it back on the wheel cylinder. In inspecting the broken piece, I noticed dried adhesive on the one side, so I just re-applied fresh crazy glue and kept my fingers crossed. I would strongly recommend using the crazy glue with a brush applicator. Worked beautifully!MANAGING PARTS AND PIECES
There are a lot of parts and peices that you'll be removing, and many screws look the same. Using a small pad of paper, I labeled the screws by name and used jikkme's numbers from his tutorial to easily remember what's what. Each step had its own paper. It may seem like overkill, but it really helped speed up the re-assembly.
Also, be very careful tightening the screws. The screw that holds the small circuit board on top of the color wheel mounting plate snapped off as I was tightening. I had to make a custom fastener by bending a paperclip. (hooray for paperclips!)RE-ASSEMBLY(photo from billgatesceo's post #8)
To give yourself the best chance of completing this repair successfully the first time, I offer this final tip. Make one final check before re-assembly. Replace your light tube and screw down the bracket. Then look at it from the direction that the arrow is pointing (see photo below). Make sure that your light tube is lined up as close as possible to the rectangle opening so that you can barely see the edges, if at all. This will ensure that your tube is seated properly. If your projector is still relatively in one piece and upright, you will have to look through the empty bulb compartment for the correct view.
(NOTE: In the photo, billgatesceo's projector is disassembled farther than you will need to go for this repair
Unfortunately, I and a few others in this thread had to disassamble again to re-seat the tube. In my case, the top of the box was peeking out a little too much from under the rectangle cut-out on the bracket, therefore blocking the light, causing a dark band on the top rather than the side where it started. Since I was very careful in applying the adhesive, I was certain there wasn't any extra causing it to sit improperly. So, I simply flipped the box vertically (so the top became the bottom) and it lined up perfectly!
Everything is re-assembled and working perfectly!
So take your time and don't worry.
I'm not a repairman and I have little to no experience with anything like this.
If you follow the advice in this forum, it's a relatively simple process that anyone with a little time and patience can accomplish.
All the best!