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Help!!! Is my X1 dying...Yellow band on right side - Page 4

post #91 of 124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheridan1952 View Post

For which projector?

If you know of a place that sells em for a 4805, lemme know, even though I found a way to fix mine, who knows maybe I'll need one in the future or someone else who reads this thread.

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #92 of 124
FOR IN FOCUS 4805

-Brand new bulb with 3 hours on it $190.

-In Focus 4805 projector - needs a new color wheel, I chipped one of the segments while removing to fix the light tunnel. The light tunnel has been repaired. Perhaps someone who broke their light tunnel into 4 pieces wants a donor projector for parts? This would give them a working light tunnel and a spare everything except the color wheel. $100

Email dustinkalthoff@gmail.com

Thanks.
post #93 of 124
Too bad. A new color wheel is about $170 and the light tunnel is about $60.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkalthoff View Post

FOR IN FOCUS 4805

-Brand new bulb with 3 hours on it $190.

-In Focus 4805 projector - needs a new color wheel, I chipped one of the segments while removing to fix the light tunnel. The light tunnel has been repaired. Perhaps someone who broke their light tunnel into 4 pieces wants a donor projector for parts? This would give them a working light tunnel and a spare everything except the color wheel. $100

Email dustinkalthoff@gmail.com

Thanks.
post #94 of 124
And you can buy these parts where? I've been told In Focus only sells the parts if they also install them, and then it's completely cost-prohibitive.

Does anyone have a 4805 with an unusable light tunnel? I would be happy to buy your color wheel if it's in excellent shape...or even if you have only one blue segnment in good shape, thats all I need and I'd have no problem gluing it into my color wheel.
post #95 of 124
They're available to repair techs.
post #96 of 124
Meh, there's no way I would pay $170 for a color wheel anyways. I'm just gonna buy something new.

New price for projector w/chipped color wheel: $50

Anyone want the 10m (30ft) M1 to DVI cable? It retailed for $1xx.00 when i bought it if I remember correctly, so I dunno, $20? (M1 is the wide connector on the back, if you dont know what DVI is I'm not gonna explain)

Bulb still for sale for $190. Cheaper than ebay by around $35 and it's only got 3 hours on it.

dustinkalthoff@gmail.com
post #97 of 124
I have diminished considerably the brown ribbow in my 4805. However, I broke the color wheel. So my advice: use a staple or a friend, but REALLY take serious care of the color wheel part - it is ultra-sensitive. (I glued mine with crazy glue and it worked again).

thank you so much for the tutorial, it solved the problem and is totally doable - but remember the risk of bricking the projector!
post #98 of 124
mine is on the bay...as is. did chk light tube...it's intact/together. Color wheel came apart...ooohhhhhhh! Lamp not included...but avail.
post #99 of 124
Does anybody have the pictures missing from ImageShack from the tutorial by jikkme?

There are four images missing, two of them may be the most important ones.

CouldnĀ“t notice they were missing with Firefox, only on IE. Tried to look for them on Imageshack, but no luck, the search engine is really limited.

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/8...2resizesp5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/8...6resizeji8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/3...3resizenp8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/8061/dcp1372ht7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Thanks
post #100 of 124
Hi,

My 4805 has the yellow band on the right hand side of the screen. Follow the instructions, but can not get the top cover off. I took the front and back cover off and disconnect the cables, but stuck right there. Anybody got the same experience? Any help will be appreciated.

--Tom
post #101 of 124
There are four screws on the bottom that secure the top. Once those are removed, the top comes off easily.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom2000 View Post

Hi,

My 4805 has the yellow band on the right hand side of the screen. Follow the instructions, but can not get the top cover off. I took the front and back cover off and disconnect the cables, but stuck right there. Anybody got the same experience? Any help will be appreciated.

--Tom
post #102 of 124
Thanks a lot. I did not notice the screws.

--Tom
post #103 of 124
I should tell you to exercise extreme caution when handling the color wheel. It has to come out to get to the light tunnel. The color wheel is very fragile and easily broken if mis-handled. And that's a $175 mistake.

And it is not necessary to take the optical engine out nor is it necessary to dismantle the projector to unplug the color wheel. Just take it loose and carefully lay it aside, making absolutely sure it does not slip and go boom.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom2000 View Post

Thanks a lot. I did not notice the screws.

--Tom
post #104 of 124
I've noticed in the past month that someone on Ebay has been selling the light tunnel for $77, or close to that amount. Just search infocus light tunnel and you should find it.
post #105 of 124
The light tunnel on Ebay is for the X2, it won't work in the 4805. The X2 tunnel is just a bit smaller, enough to make a difference if you try the X2 part in the 4805. You'll get the dreaded dark stripe on one side. Been there.
post #106 of 124
Thanks, jikkme, for the great illustrated walk-through! Took a while, but I got my light pipe out.

Actually fixing the thing turned out to be the hardest part -- the mirrors are really small and delicate to work with. I used Krazy Glue to rebuild the collapsed side and reinforce the other side, but a little bit of the glue leaked into the inside of the pipe and now causes a visible shadow in the upper-right corner of the screen. The situation is much much better than it was before, but now I wish I'd used an epoxy.

I'm sure I'll have to go back in again one day, though -- the construction of the light pipe is terrible! Glass glued to glass and then the join put under a shear load by the clip that holds it in place. No wonder this is such a common problem.

As for the color wheel, I used some 18 gauge wire to tie its mounting assembly to the nearby heat sink, up and out of the way, while working on the light tunnel. There really isn't anywhere to set it down in a stable way with the short reach of the ribbon cable.
post #107 of 124
The clip that holds it in place does not place as much load on it as you would believe. And if you were to take a closer look, you would see that the load (such as it is) is on the top and the sides of the light tunnel are BETWEEN the top and bottom, (assuming you assembled it correctly) and provide some top-to bottom strength. The clip is there to keep the light tunnel in place, which is very critical as if it is just a fraction out of alignment, you will get a shadow on one edge. Just so you can check yourself, I'll attach an end-on diagram of what the finished piece should look like.

Which model projector do you have?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ertdredge View Post

Thanks, jikkme, for the great illustrated walk-through! Took a while, but I got my light pipe out.

Actually fixing the thing turned out to be the hardest part -- the mirrors are really small and delicate to work with. I used Krazy Glue to rebuild the collapsed side and reinforce the other side, but a little bit of the glue leaked into the inside of the pipe and now causes a visible shadow in the upper-right corner of the screen. The situation is much much better than it was before, but now I wish I'd used an epoxy.

I'm sure I'll have to go back in again one day, though -- the construction of the light pipe is terrible! Glass glued to glass and then the join put under a shear load by the clip that holds it in place. No wonder this is such a common problem.


LL
post #108 of 124
OK, I'm going to try this process on my Infocus X2 tonight. The lamp is blown so I won't know if it's fixed until the new lamp arrives, but I don't think it will hurt to get to know how to assemble and disassemble the projector.

Here are the tools I've got for this task:

1. Paper clips to hold the color wheel.
2. Crazy glue to glue the light tunnel.
3. Precision screw drivers
4. Post-it notes to label where each screw came from.

Anything else I'll require?
post #109 of 124
Cotton swab and denatured alcohol to clean the color wheel, canned air to blast out the imaging chamber (LAST step before installing the top case.
post #110 of 124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheridan1952 View Post

Cotton swab and denatured alcohol to clean the color wheel, canned air to blast out the imaging chamber (LAST step before installing the top case.

Well I'm pretty sure I wrecked my light tube....

All went well with the disassembly, thanks for the directions and pictures. I found a big blob of dust on my light tunnel and the tunnel itself looked to be in OK alignment. My instinct was to not mess with the light tube itself, instead just remove the dust blob with tweezers. Sadly I made gentle contact with the light tube and the four pieces fell apart.

I was ready for that since that's how it was described in the discussion and grabbed my crazy glue, but I found it impossible to get the offset as described above. My hat is off to all of you that did this successfully! In my case i was applying the crazy glue to a tooth pick and then trying to apply a tiny like to the glass mirrors, but there was such a tiny contact area due to the offset! When I finally got the pieces stuck together there was no real visible offset. I tried to put all four pieces together and the gently move them outwards with some pliers but the glue worked so rapidly that they wouldn't budge and I knew if I applied any more pressure I would shatter the mirrors.

My new lamp is arriving the week so I won't be able to test until then, but my hopes are not high. Do replacement light tunnels come as a single piece? I don't feel confident at all in my ability to get the offset right if I have to try this again...
post #111 of 124
The light tunnels come preassembled, as a unit. All you have to do is install it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbutch1976 View Post

Well I'm pretty sure I wrecked my light tube....

All went well with the disassembly, thanks for the directions and pictures. I found a big blob of dust on my light tunnel and the tunnel itself looked to be in OK alignment. My instinct was to not mess with the light tube itself, instead just remove the dust blob with tweezers. Sadly I made gentle contact with the light tube and the four pieces fell apart.

I was ready for that since that's how it was described in the discussion and grabbed my crazy glue, but I found it impossible to get the offset as described above. My hat is off to all of you that did this successfully! In my case i was applying the crazy glue to a tooth pick and then trying to apply a tiny like to the glass mirrors, but there was such a tiny contact area due to the offset! When I finally got the pieces stuck together there was no real visible offset. I tried to put all four pieces together and the gently move them outwards with some pliers but the glue worked so rapidly that they wouldn't budge and I knew if I applied any more pressure I would shatter the mirrors.

My new lamp is arriving the week so I won't be able to test until then, but my hopes are not high. Do replacement light tunnels come as a single piece? I don't feel confident at all in my ability to get the offset right if I have to try this again...
post #112 of 124
Howdy... New member here with the classic 4805 Light Tube problem....

Well, I just finished repairing the tube in my 4805, and all went well. I got a tiny speck of glue on one of the narrow side pieces and, sure enough, you can tell when looking at the screen. It's a small blemish in the upper left corner of the screen (not real noticeable)

The ugly shaded area on the right side of the screen is gone, so I'm pleased a punch!
post #113 of 124
Another success story. Glad to hear it. Doesn't it make you feel good when you can DIY?
post #114 of 124
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheridan1952 View Post

Another success story. Glad to hear it. Doesn't it make you feel good when you can DIY?

Pretty much how I live my life... If I can do it myself, why should I pay someone???

Except when it comes to my proctologist.....
post #115 of 124
Thanks for all the tips. I joined to let you guys know that I managed to fix my LP600 using this forum. The tear down was the hardest part for me and I accidentally broke a tab but everything else was quite easy.
Using the RTV silicone that someone suggested earlier works great. You can pick up a "maximum heat" .5oz tube at Autozone for 4 bucks. The great thing about the silicone is that it's very sticky but takes a while to dry so you can adjust it quite easily and not worry about it drying out on you. Plus, it's super easy to wipe any spillage off of the mirror with a q-tip and some alcohol.
Just be careful when handling the stuff because it stains your clothes really easily.
If anyone wants some instructions on how to tear down the LP600, just let me know! Total time for repairs was about 45 minutes and $4 bucks. Needless to say, I'm pretty pleased.
post #116 of 124
New light tunnel arrived along with my new lamp. Tore it down and put it all back together with the help of this board and I'm absolutely thrilled with the results, the projector looks good at new. Thanks guys!
post #117 of 124
WOW! I found this thread as a result of a 4805 dust cleaning thread .
I know this is an old thread...but older projectors will start needing simple repairs such as this and I wanted to add my thanks to those that have documented this process!
My projector was bought new 6 years ago?...I took to task to cleaning it and when I was finished with the cleaning and tested my work, I found I, too, had the discolored bar running down one side of my screen. I assumed I had assembled incorrectly, so I took it apart and put it back together...no change. I then saw the link in the above thread to THIS thread..and what did I find??? A collapsed tunnel!
I'm sure over the years the glue finally gave in. She's been good to me for all these years, so I figured I'd follow the steps to repair her. Besides, I don't have the money to buy a new one.

Thanks again guys!!!! You have saved a great performing projector AND a man cave in ONE fell swoop!
post #118 of 124
Thank you to all who helped make this thread.
I used the info here to fix my light tube problem.
A special thanks to Sheridan1952 who shipped me a new light tube very quickly I ordered it from him on Monday it was here on Thursday
He was a big help and very nice to deal with.
post #119 of 124
Quote:
Originally Posted by bahsura View Post

Does anybody have the pictures missing from ImageShack from the tutorial by jikkme?

There are four images missing, two of them may be the most important ones.

CouldnĀ“t notice they were missing with Firefox, only on IE. Tried to look for them on Imageshack, but no luck, the search engine is really limited.

http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/8...2resizesp5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/8...6resizeji8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/3...3resizenp8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/8061/dcp1372ht7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Thanks

x2


It appears that some of the images referenced in this amazing tutorial are now dead

Anyone have them handy?

I've got the dreaded light tunnel issue now.

Thanks
post #120 of 124
Thanks for the light tunnel tutorial .... I did fix the light tunnel mirror, I super glued it and it is perfect now.

Thanks
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