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Theater Construction (as yet unnamed)

post #1 of 43
12/30/05 at 11:04pm
Thread Starter 
Hi everyone and thanks for all the help I've gotten already to get to the point of at least planning my first theater. This is the thread I'll use to post updates on my progress. I am not sure yet what I will be doing (maybe all of it) and what I will subcontract out. Also, I will be finishing about 800 sq ft of basement all told, so my schedule is to have it done in a year from January 1st.

First off, I have just finished my basic layout diagram for the 57th time. I end up with a theater that is 19'6" deep by 11'6" wide. The pool table must stay (WAF), or I would use a much larger area. The 11'6" width is basically contained by HVAC and support poles I am dealing with in the basement.

I don't have 5 posts so I can't link to my drawing yet, but I will shortly.

I am approaching this as a learning experience and will setup the room from a standpoint of upgradeability. Right now I will be using 5.1, but will prewire for at least 7.1. I plan on "overplanning" for all possible wiring and using PVC with wire pulls for all drops.

What I have:
Infocus LP540 projector (new, got it so cheap I can't complain)
Optoma 106" 16:9 Greywolf screen (again, too cheap to pass up)

What I plan on:
Polk R30 for L & R, Polk R15 for surrounds.
Subwoofer and Center channel TBD.
Two rows of 3 seats (most likely Coaster Showtime)
Buttkickers? Maybe. Will wire for them in case.
I am planning at this point to do a true drywall ceiling in the theater and a drop ceiling elsewhere.
Planning on a Navy Blue color scheme with GOM over acoustic treatments on the walls.
Dricor for all finished floors.
External venting to projector and equipment closet.
No real issues with sound containment in the room.
Bass traps? Still need to figure it out.
Equipment Closet is under the stairs.
Completely unsure as to what equipment will go in there.

I'll post here and keep you updated. As soon as I clear out the basement of "stuff" I'll post some before pictures.

My schedule is to pull permits in the first week of January, and get the basement ready for construction by the second week. By then I will have decided whether I think the 1 year old and the 3 year old are going to allow me enough time to do the framing myself or if I want to hire it out and just get it done.

Thanks for all the planning help the past few months (even though you didn't know it) and thanks for all the future help!
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post #2 of 43
12/31/05 at 6:26am
It sounds like you have a really nice theater planned. I'm looking forward to the pics.
As far as your center channel goes, I would stay with the polks for timbre matching.

Maybe your wife would go for more space if you showed her what some of the nicer theaters on the forum look like. Or perhaps you could take her to a local high end A/V dealer that has a nice theater setup. My wife loves the theater and really enjoys watching movies there.
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post #3 of 43
12/31/05 at 7:22am
I'll be curious to see your drawings when you can post them, as my theater I'm designing right now is almost exactly the same size, and my AV closet will be under the stairs as well. I hope to have mine ready to post soon.
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post #4 of 43
12/31/05 at 10:06am
Good luck on your construction! After months of reading on this forum, I'm about 2 weeks away from getting the framing started. Looking forward to the pics and look for my construction thread in the near future!

Brian
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post #5 of 43
12/31/05 at 10:28am
Good luck on the year thing. I am rapidly approaching 2 years since I started. The good news is that I am on the homestretch with waterproofing, some demolition, framing, wiring, Dricore floors, and drywall almost done. I kept finding myself working on it like gangbusters for a few weeks and then doing nothing for a month or more, rinse, repeat. The completion date was supposed to be in time to watch the last Superbowl in HD on my PJ in the theater instead of upstairs on a HD RPTV. Didn't happen.

My project is almost the same as yours, finishing most of a basement (~850 sq. ft.), broken up into an office, a common area, a closet, and the 11.5'x21' HT.

Piece of advice. Don't start buying stuff for the HT until you are really almost done. You can get a PJ very quickly (if you decide to upgrade yours) and the seating really doesn't take that long. I've had my PJ for 10 months and it has been sitting in a box the whole time, as has the screen. I received my Berkline 090s 8 months ago. I wish I'd waited until I was closer to completion before I'd purchased either, especially the PJ. The audio stuff I already had from my upstairs system.

Guilt trip yourself into doing something on your project at least every week, even if it is for only an hour or so. It is more work than you are likely anticipating.
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post #6 of 43
12/31/05 at 6:26pm
How do your like the polk speakers?
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post #7 of 43
12/31/05 at 6:53pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rameshkr View Post

How do your like the polk speakers?

I listened to them locally and like them a lot, especially the prices I can get them at. As I said, this is a starter and I plan to do major upgrades over time. However, to start I am trying to do the best budget system I can do.

Outpost recently had the R15's for $39.99 +s/h per pair and the R30's for $39.99 each + s/h. They do that deal on each occasionally so as soon as it hits again I will be buying the 4 speakers for less than $150 shipped.
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post #8 of 43
12/31/05 at 6:54pm
Thread Starter 
Until I can get my links to work, I added what is currently in my plan to my sig.
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post #9 of 43
12/31/05 at 7:54pm
Bump on the timbre matching. Ideally you would want the LRC to be all the same speaker, but who lives in an ideal world? Good luck and get them pics posted. Bump a few threads to get to five posts.
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post #10 of 43
1/2/06 at 8:49pm
Thread Starter 
Here are my starting construction pics. I started stapling up the vapor barrier already.

I know what everyone says about not setting up the projector, but I have put the screen up temporarily on what will be the left wall of the theater to keep the three year old busy while I work. It is the ONLY way I can get anything done!

Plans for the basement
Stairs to Basement
Pool Room Area
Theater Area
Monsters, Inc.

The image is just a simple Panasonic HTIB setup temporarily using my LP540 on the GreyWolf screen. It is about 12' away sitting on the box holding my under counter fridge for the bar.
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post #11 of 43
1/2/06 at 11:02pm
RedArt, if I'm not mistaken, I believe the vapor barrier is suppose to go on the inside of the stud walls after unfaced insulation is placed in the cavities.

Jim
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post #12 of 43
1/7/06 at 11:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpa3d View Post

RedArt, if I'm not mistaken, I believe the vapor barrier is suppose to go on the inside of the stud walls after unfaced insulation is placed in the cavities.

Jim

That depends on where he lives. Well into the north, I believe it is standard practice to put it against the foundation wall.

I did part of mine against the foundation (as was demonstrated on a DIY Network show) and later I was corrected about that on here and put the rest inside the studs. I was terrified that the building inspector would make me do part of it over again and was told that my county has no vapor barrier requirement at all.
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post #13 of 43
1/7/06 at 2:29pm
The vapor barrier goes on the conditioned side of the wall. (In other words, jpa3d is correct)

Tim
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post #14 of 43
1/7/06 at 8:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

The vapor barrier goes on the conditioned side of the wall. (In other words, jpa3d is correct)

Tim

Not everyone agrees with that. For example:

http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/i...infinsul2.shtm

Quote:


For basement walls, a vapor barrier should be installed on the walls first, before the framing is installed. This common sense step that is often skipped in basement renovations will considerably lessen the migration of moisture through the foundation walls.

Also, like I said above, a DIY network show in finishing basements specifically taught viewers to put it against the foundation wall. Of course, the show finished with the best advice of all: "Consult your local building codes." Anyone reading this or any other building technique thread here would be well-served to follow the same advice.

Having the VB against the foundation wall is actually code in some places. In other places, it is code for it to be on the room side of against the foundation framing. In other places, like my county, it isn't officially required at all. I think (and I could be wrong about this), that in more northerly climates, it is more likely to be code to have the VB against the foundation.

The important thing is to NOT do both, have a VB on both sides of the framed wall (to include not using Kraft-faced insulation if the VB is against the foundation wall.
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post #15 of 43
1/7/06 at 9:31pm
That site also says:
Quote:


A vapor barrier is designed to keep moisture in your home from getting inside your walls.

If you have a barrier between the stud space and the exterior, moisture can't escape. It's exactly the opposite of what you'd want.

I can also speak from experience (built 5 apartments, 1 house, and 2 remodels) in a cold climate (Minnesota).

Anyway, I think this might well be considered hijacking the thread, so I'll bring it back on topic..

RedArt, your situation is actually perfect for an Infinite Baffle subwoofer setup, with front-mounted drivers. I'm looking for a basement that I can do that exact setup in, actually. You can research it on the subs forum, and especially here:

http://home.comcast.net/~infinitelybaffled/
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post #16 of 43
1/8/06 at 12:55am
A plastic vapor barrier is not needed if one is using kraftfaced paper batt insulation and this is always installed paper facing the inside of the room to act as a vapor barrier. That is why unbatted insulation is covered on the inside with plastic to serve as a vapor barrier, it also helps hold the insulation in place before hanging sheetrock. The foundation side of an interior wall needs ventilation.
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post #17 of 43
1/8/06 at 5:07am
Thread Starter 
I went back and forth on the same issue. Multiple sites listing multiple different answers. I talked to an ex inspector (retired) in this area that I know and he said in this area to do it like this. I will check with the actual inspectors now that it has been brought up here too.

BTW, anyone who is interested, I just bought my R15's for $39.98 + shipping:
R15 at Fry's Outpost for $39.98+shipping
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post #18 of 43
1/8/06 at 8:03am
I would have to agree that you must follow local building codes. ICC residential code requires the vapor barrier on the conditioned side (ICC residential code adopted in 45 states) of the wall. Right or wrong, the building code in your area will tell you how to install a vapor barrier-- there is no debate. If you feel you want to install the barrier a certain way because you have read about it and think a certain method is better than another, just call your building department and ask, "Can I install the vapor barrier in a basement in this manner..."

Here in NY they are going to start requiring the vapor barrier to be overlapped at least 1 stud cavity and the seam to be caulked.

As a personal preference, I would advise against kraft faced insulation due to the number of breaks it creates in the vapor barrier.

Tim
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post #19 of 43
1/8/06 at 8:49pm
The whole vapor barrier issue is really crazy. I just recently built a house in Wisconsin with pretty strict codes for our suburb of Milwaukee and I passed rough inspection on Thursday for my basement/HT project.

The inspector said "no vapor barrier". I have partial exposure, which has a vaopr barrier installed in the 2x6 wall.

I think the theory, at least in my case is that my basement walls are insulated on the outside and that's the area that will see the greatest amount of temperature differential and that will be near the top of the wall of course.

Insulation on my basement walls:


My HT is framed with 3" between the block and the framed wall and will naturally vent with my layout. I'm still a little nervous about the other framed walls with no gap.

Good luck with your project.

Dave
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post #20 of 43
1/12/06 at 11:21am
Thread Starter 
Okay, vapor barrier against the foundation checks out with code. I just have to make sure not to use faced insulation or any other vapor barrier at all.

Also...thanks to Roman at Ultimate Home Entertainment (a member here) I was able to get better seating than I ever thought I would. It will be arriving WAY earlier than anticipated, but I ended up with two rows of 3 Berkline 090's. One row will have power recline...that was all the wife would budge on budget for me. But heck, I am not spending too much over budget and I have much better seating than I thought was possible. Thanks for the help Roman!
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post #21 of 43
3/1/06 at 9:20pm
Thread Starter 
Well, I have accomplished a little bit.

On the stairwell here, I have knocked out the framing to open up the right side wall. I'll be installing a bannister at the bottom as opposed to having it all walled up. That way it will look more open, there will be more room for playing pool in the room to the right and basically just because.



Also, most of the exterior framing is done. Here is a picture to the left at the bottom of the stairs. A small "kid's area" and the half bath will be here.



And I have started on the DriCore floor. It is about halfway done. Here is a picture of the pool table area. I am just about to move into the theater area. Hope to complete that this weekend.



And now, it is time to get some sleep. This late night construction gets old, but with the 3 year old and 1 year old, it is the only time I can get things done. Thinking of taking a week off work just to finish a bunch of it off.
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post #22 of 43
8/10/06 at 6:57am
Thread Starter 
I will post pics later, but I hired an HVAC company to come in and increase my headroom by moving my cold air return and trunk line.

I got estimates for the same to similar work in the range of $700-$2500. Seems to vary wildly and randomly.

DriCore floor is done.

After the HVAC is done today, I will start soffits. When that is done, I will wire and I am having someone do drywall after that.

Paying for the HVAC and drywalling. Two things I didn't really want to tackle myself.
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post #23 of 43
8/10/06 at 7:51am
Spend a few bucks for the pros get it done quickly and right, and save your energy for the jobs you know you can knock out. Besides, it gives you more time to spend with the wife and kids.
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post #24 of 43
8/10/06 at 5:10pm
My vote is to put the vapor barrier on the concrete side. My reasoning is that any moisture that gets into the wall will dry towards the inside. If you have a vapor barrier on the inside the moisture will get trapped inside the wall leading to rot and mold.
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post #25 of 43
8/10/06 at 9:35pm
Thread Starter 
Well, it's done. Total Cost $734.

I still don't have a lot of height at the screen, but I needed more room over my riser, so I had to do it.

Before:

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post #26 of 43
8/10/06 at 9:38pm
Thread Starter 
After:


This will give me about 10 extra inches. (Always wanted to say that.)

Shots from the riser:
Before:


After:
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post #27 of 43
8/10/06 at 9:40pm
Thread Starter 
Last progress picture. The Dricore is done in the theater area and the riser is in progress.

The wall to the theater is basically the last framing left and will run butted up against the riser. (The posts are outside the theater.)
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post #28 of 43
8/12/06 at 8:52am
Nice job, great pictures.
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post #29 of 43
8/18/06 at 5:41pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks Gran, nice job so far on your theater.

I got our carpet sample in the mail today. I think the wife has decided that this is it. Now I need to get some Emerald and Black GOM fabrics to match it.

The picture is reasonably accurate. The black could be a bit blacker though. It is called Landscape BrushArt. Will be installing with memory foam pad and will run about $1300 with installation for the 12x20 room

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post #30 of 43
9/3/06 at 10:12pm
Thread Starter 
Looks like the carpet has a minor change. Same pattern as above, but blue instead of green. We all like it better.

Progress!!

Soffits are up:


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