Definitive Owners Thread - Page 422

I called Abt, seeing if they would match this and the guy i talked to said that even with his employee discount the best price he could get for himself was 310. 6th ave said they'd be willing to do it at 299. Somehow I still can't convince myself to buy it ...

tnx and looks like the following posts all concur that matching the driver size is pretty important, i guess its defiantly the 2002, and i think i'll do 7004's to match the sides too.


hmm.. actually after a bunch of reading i think ive changed my mind, i think hte 7002's are a bit outside my pricerange but maybe not the 7004's. i'll post the new setup at the end here




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so the tower with no sub thing they sugest on their site is actually the way to go?... that just sounds WEIRD. wont setting the sub to none cause you to lose that dedicated .1 channel, or does the reciever really send the WHOLE thing to the front L/R speakers as iff you had set SW to yes, go to L/R?

wait.. confused about a line in there "if you're running both powered towers and extra sub AND you want the LFE channel to go to the mains and the extra sub or subs, then you would need to run RCA cables to the mains with splitters"

that would be only if you wanted to use the LFE for everything right? What would be the general ideal setup for the .1 Chanel with the towers AND a sub... i think from your post it would be: speaker wire to the front L/R and then the LFE out to the dedicated sub with sub set to on? would you get any benefit from the front 2 towers that way at all?

ok so after some thinking and reading im actually thinking of maybe going for 7.1 instead of 5.1 >_< At the very least i am going to do the 7004's instead of the 7006s.. that will match the center and rears better and its a more powerfull sub. so heres my thought for the new setup

Center: clr/2002
L/R bp7004's
rear R/L bp2x's

now wil that give me enough bass you think? the bed rooms 18X13. like i said this will be almost exclusivly for gaming. The wiring in that regard would be idealy just speaker wire with the sub set to off, correct?

now if i wanted to do a sub then it would be the above but with
Center: clr/2002
L/R bp7004's
rear R/L bp2x's
sub:supercube III

or something.. would the supercube III be a good setup for those fronts and rears? or should i go for the II? hell, what makes the supercubes so much better than the prosubs? just the wattage?

in that regard, im confused about the wiring still.. would i just run speakerwire to the 7004's, and then hook the sub up with the LFE out with sub to yes? would u run speaker wire to the sub at all in that regard? i see it has slots for that.. i was thinking speaker wire from reciever to the sub, sub to the rears, AND the LFE jack to the sub. is that right?


alright, heres the kicker, i want a 7.1 now i think. Im not positive if this will give me any real benefit though. Does the pioneer elite sc-05 redistribute 5.1 sound to 7.1 channels? i see modes like thx select game and stuff, and think thats what they're for. If it would help me discirn footstep positions and bullet fire direction then its well worth it.. does it? or does it just mirror the sound to the rears to make it louder?

if thats the case then what should i get for the very back? 2 more bp2x's? or should i get some more clr2002s?

im guessing:
Center: clr/2002
L/R bp7004's
rear R/L: bp2x's
rear sat R/L: BP2x's

or would it be
im guessing:
Center: clr/2002
L/R bp7004's
rear R/L: clr/2002's?
rear sat R/L: BP2x's


and again.. with that setup should i use a sub or not?

not sure if 7.1 would be overkill for the room or best way to lay it out, i drew a rough drawing of how i think it should lay out in my bedroom can anyone tell me if this looks right?

http://home.comcast.net/~kenshindono/roomdraw1.jpg

and if i was going to get a sub and put it near the back, i was thinking of sticking it in the closet on the right, does that sound good?

tnx for the help guys, its getting down to crunch time, im going in for a final listen tomorow so hopefully iget some replies tonight. im picking out games with good sound to test out

btw whos this chet guy everyone keeps talking about e-mailing for speaker selection? ive been skimming through past posts and keep seeing people say they emailed chet =P

kenshin-dono, when you go into the receiver and set subwoofer to "none", the LFE channel is not lost, it's redirected to the main left/right speakers which is the best way to hook up powered towers that are not using any extra subs

will the 7004's have enough bass is something only you can answer. i bet a pair of 7004s would really rock in a bed room but you really have to listen to them and see for yourself if they have "enough" bass for you

there are people using 7004s all by themselves with no extra subs and are very happy with the bass. then there are people like lefthandluke who's using bp7001s with dual trinity subs and dual reference supercubes

as for the pro sub 800, there's only so much a 8" sub can do. not even sure if it would add anything to the 7004s which already have dual 10" subs

with the 7.1 question and which rear speakers to use. that also comes down to personal choice. some people prefer the direct radiating speakers for the rear, some prefer bi-polar. personally i'd go with the bi-polar. you would also save about $500 over using dual clr-2002s (studio monitor 450s are another option if you go the direct route)

looking at your room diagram, the rears are going to be in the corners so that's another reason i'd probably go with the bp2x's

when you say put the sub in the closet, is that with the door closed ? i would never do that but if it's an open closet, sure

wow fast reply, tnx. heh tryin to get the last bit of info before i go in to listen tomorow

its good to know that nothing is lost setting sub to none and letting it just redirect. So your positive that doing that and just wiring the 7004s with speaker wire will cause no loss in the .1 channel, it just all goes to the towers and they lay it down to the subs on their own? i e-mailed def tech and they said ithe 7004's were basically like having 2 powersub100's in them, and that if i hook them up with wire and the lfe line the only benefit would be being able to manually adjust the base lvl with the reciever remote. Is that right?

sub is not even a definite go right now i think im going to see how the 7004's sound without it and then i can always just go buy one later. But no, of course i wont be doing it with the closet door closed, lol. I guess i should have mentioned that i have no doors on the closets, they're both totally open, thats why the one in the middle has a TV in it, thats where i watch my cable and play my old genesis games and stuff the one in the front has nothing in it but some clothes

if you WERE to couple a sub with that, or anyone else, what would you use? the supercube III? II? i think just listening and then getting one if needed is the best bet

i think i'll take the sugestion and use the bp2x's instead of clr2002's, i forgot about the price difference.

so what do you guys think of the 7.1 vs 5.1 setup in that room? will i gain any benefit for 7.1 with that layout?

here i drew an alternitive layout. since im redoing the whole room it can get moved around, im painting the walls a cool metalic finish i found and getting zebra print carpet, lol =P

original
http://home.comcast.net/~kenshindono/roomdraw1.jpg

possible alternitive
http://home.comcast.net/~kenshindono/roomdraw2.jpg

whichi would be acoustically better? im not sure how the windows interact with the sound, that was my main concern, or if i have the rear sats too far back in the first one

and lol, lefthandluke must have a huge room or be a very hardcore audiophile

I got mine from 6ave for $306 shipped, should be here tomorrow.

I called back and John was able to sell it at 299 shipped. Mine should show up middle of next week. The few used ones are selling right around 300 after shipping, so this will be a new one and will likely get to me faster than any of the craigslist/ebay/audiogon sellers. If I was going to get one, this is probably the best price I'll ever find it at, so I caved.

Time to add a little sound to the deck, any one own or heard the AW6500's outdoors? Haven't heard them or anything else in same price range yet. Impressions, suggestions? Not really looking to blast the neighbors or party hard, just some quality sound at lower levels.

Kenshin-dono Having a quality surround system in a sealed room (e.i. your bedroom), you're going to get some serious SPL out of your speaker choices, so it's probably safe to assume that the 7004s are going to perform great without a separate sub, but... with an additional sub, a direct hit on you from artillery or tank shell my knock you completely out of your chair .

Yes, they are the friggin' loudest best sounding outdoor speakers I have ever heard.......but hmmmmm what does that really mean....how many have I heard in my lifetime? Well I've been to a fair share of pool parties and backyard celebrations and they are not the typical outdoor speaker you see from Radio Shack or Bestbuy.

Ck out the post below from rr330i on a pair I sold him. Buy them and return them if you think otherwise and feel free to call me out on it (I'm pretty confident)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...b#post14615764

yes and yes


subwoofer placement takes a lot of trial and error to find the right spot where it will sound best in "your room". every room is different is shape, size, acoustics so there's no "one size fits all" answer to subwoofer placement


again, that comes to personal taste.


that's another trial and error issue. try both and see which sounds best

To be clear... the entire LFE channel would be sent through the speaker wire as explained, but you'll only hear what the BP7004 is capable of playing. I beleive they are rated down to 30Hz +/- 3dB. So everything under 30 will be tailing off into inaudibility. Don't get me wrong, 30Hz ain't bad. Great for music and gaming, but there is content in movies that would be lost.

Adding an ID sub would get you the biggest bang for the buck. Something along the lines of a SVS PB-12NSD. Others could name many more. Ya know, if you were to consider the BP8B and hold off on the rear surrounds (start with 5.1), the savings would get you a sub with almost no sacrifice in your setup performance.

It is correct to try the front sound stage on each of your wall options, but I think it is predictable that the windows (with curtains), and the angled corners would not be as good as the other wall.

yup, that's what i recommended in my first post. bp8's and a decent ID sub could net better performance and save some money

i was also going to remind him that brand matching subs to speakers is not important at all

another thought is this being a bedroom, not sure how much thunder he wants spilling out into other rooms of the house. bp7004s could be the right option, with room loading they should dip into the high to mid 20s plus the added advantage of not messing around with extra subs and the sound quality advantage of having the subs built in and perfectly blended

7002s might be another option for added bass and better mid-range and he "might" not have to add a sub to them

personally for a bedroom of that size, and being on a tight budget, i'd look at bp8's and a good $999 range ID sub

maybe one of these

http://www.svsound.com/products-sub-cyl-pc12_plus.cfm

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/F15.html

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=618

http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-3-mk3.html

http://www.epiksubwoofers.com/portedsentinel.html

or one of these



http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...roducts_id=607

just kidding on the last one

Good point otk. That sealed room could net some great low end out of the 7004s.

here are some +/- 3db response numbers from chet at def tech

BP7002: +/- 3db 25hz - 20,000 hz
BP7004: +/- 3db 27hz - 20,000 hz
BP7006 +/- 3db 29hz - 20,000 hz
SuperCube I: +/- 3db 20hz - 120 hz
SuperCube II: +/- 3db 25hz - 125 hz
SuperCube III: +/- 3db 29hz - 130hz

These measurements were taken with a microphone placed 1 meter away from
the front of the loudspeaker or subwoofer (which was placed on the
floor). There was no reflective sound from the walls. However, there
was a sound reflection from the floor.

Thanks,
Chet Pelkowski
Definitive Technology

WOW!, tnx otk, and headedforhighend, thats some great info there

after going in and listenting, your right i am going to get a sub, they didn't have that oomph without one, let me tell you about my experience

Well i spent 3 friggin hours in their demo room today, lol. people kept walking in and listening to the games i brought to demo. Surprisingly Fallout 3 was the most amazing, when i fired the laser and plasma rifles, the sound almost knocked me out of the chair! it was louder than artillery in COD4, by FAR, with no distortion at all. Well at least with the 2nd sub i listened to, the supercubeII was a bit warbly. even the rep was very surprised, he said he wished they had a 360 hooked up permanently in there to showcase that audio.. it really was something. MGS4, and other stuff sounded great too, i heard details i never knew where in the games. Bones bracking, birds, ambiance, waves crashing, ect. But what really really got me was just the thundering sound of those friggin plamsa rifles in fallout 3, it was really unbelivable.. and that was in a large room with the speakers much further away than they would be against me in my room, im not even sure what it would be like in the bedroom o_O Head, Your comment about the tank shell knocking me out of the chair is almost literally what happened! LOL, only it was a crazy future energy weapon that did it, not a tank

Im going 5.1, not 7.1 the guy pointed out that for gaming i wouldn't be getting much benefit from 7.1 since i dont get any real positional boost, it just splits the sound between the extra speakers. Also he said with how far back the satalites are thats not going to work very well, they should idealy be only a few feet behind me in that setup. Does that sound about right with the pics i posted? If i do 5.1 i can spend on a better sub. With the speakers and receiver (got them to price match a really good 6th ave special for the reciever, havent shopped around for speakers yet) *EDIT* oops added it wrong only added 1 L and r surround, lol im actually just under 3k right now without the sub, but im sure it will go lower once i shop around for the speaker prices, they were high on the reciever. im gonna wind up going over 3k i think for a decent sub though, but i guess thats ok if im a bit over it

Its really interesting you guys mention the subs so much, because im definatly getting one after hearing with and without. I had assumed you needed to match subs to speakers, heh wasn't mentioned untill recently that you dont. Actually, the differnt subs had quite different sounds. The supercube II wasnt that impressive, it got distorted, but the martin logan he switched to sounded really good, it didn't distort, and the gunfire sounded crisper, it was the ABYSS from martin logan. Is that a pretty good speaker?

Im actually damn confused about subs. I dont know much about them but just looking at the specs of the supercube vs the ABYSS i looked at, youd think the supercube would be better
Supercube
http://www.definitivetech.com/Produc...SuperCube%20II
ABYSS
http://www.us.martinlogan.com/specs/abyss.html

it has MUCH more power and lower frequency range, so shouldn't it have sounded better? I dont get it. The way the guy described it was that the ABYSS has just one large woofer, where as the supercube has 2 coupled together. Somehow that works better since i have built in subs in my towers i guess? Does anyone know how that works?

Im just really not sure what to look for in a sub. Remember i got 2 built subs in already, so do i want something that concentrates on upper bass? low range? hell what does upper bass, ect even mean? is that louder, more bass, what?

I dont think i want something like the supercube that tries to do both, i think the HSU you linked to falls under the supercube category of trying to be too versitile? on the page it says:
"Variable tuning allows you to switch the bass characteristics on-demand. Choose between lower extension (‘music’ mode) or higher headroom (‘home theater’ mode). Subwoofer designs involve tradeoffs – one cannot optimally design a subwoofer to play low deep notes, and at the same time play loud. Usually the designer chooses a tradeoff for you. With the VTF series, we let you, the user, have uncompromising control at home."

i really dont know im quite confused on that regard, what should i really be looking for in a sub with my configuration in mind, is the martin logan ABYSS good? it certainly sounded pretty nice, they quoted me 967 but that sounds way high i can probalby find it cheaper online, but it sounds like a pretty pricey one in general, thats fine if its good and what i really need but wondering if theres anything else out there.. maybe ill get that last one posted, that sure looks cool! =P

so here we go, heres my planned setup:

C: clr2002
L/R: BP7004's
rear L/R: BP2x's
Reciever: Pioneer elite sc-05
Sub:.. dont know, maybe the martin logan ABYSS?

how does that look? really need help with the sub. Now that you know my planned setup guys, which of those recomended in the link above or the one i sugested would be a good bet? or any other ones?

one other thing the guy was pushing on me was a power conditioner.. do you guys think this is necessary? I thought it was a lame come on like monster cables (what a waste) but the way he explained it kinda made sense, drawing that much power the sound might not be steady. I wil have 2 powered subs, a 3rd dedicated sub, a 60" dlp, 3 game systems, reciever, DVD player, a 2nd tv, and possibly 1 or 2 of my computers all plugged into this thing. Should i get a conditioner or is it just a bunch of bs?

he seemed to really like the furman, the elite 15pfi. its got something called linear power filtration that cuts down on fluctuations. thing is he quoted me like 400 bucks for this thing. Im sure i can get the price down but, yeesh thats a lot of money, is it really needed?

oh and finally, speaker wire.. what guage? would 14 be fine, or maybe should i go 12?

tnx a lot for the help guys, looks like im almost ready to pull the trigger. Actually i'll probalby have this sorted out before i do the carpet. You'd be surprised how hard it is to find a good quality zebra print carpet, lol

I guess I'm kind of old school, or just old. I cant imagine demoing speakers using a video game but that's going to be a primary use for you so it makes sense. Save the 400 bucks and just get a good surge protector. May be he gets a bonus for selling one of those. A lot of people (myself included) have been going with id subwoofers. They offer a lot of bang for the buck. Here is an example

http://www.svsound.com/products-sub-box-10nsd.cfm

I used 12 ga wire from monoprice, 14 ga would be fine too.

kenshin-dono

I have that setup. 7004s, 2002, 2 X bp2x, + id sub.

IMHO, the sound was very good even w/o the separate sub and I'm in a 3000+ cubic foot room. I kept the 7004s as full range w/no sub. That being said, adding the separate sub has made a big difference in overall performance.

Good Luck.

I know I'm butting in, but I've read a few of your posts the last couple of days, so here are two of my cents...


That Martin Logan has a 12" driver. There's only so much an 8" can do, and you have more than that in the mains, so the supercube II wouldn't make sense. Also, I like DefTech and their speakers, but their published specs are a little sketchy; no +/- db ratings on their frequency responses, and no telling what the 1250 watts means. At what distortion level, etc.


I'm not a gamer myself, but I know one thing... those games are hella dynamic with explosions and such. The main change I would make to your system is, I would not get a receiver; I would use a pre/pro and a separate multichannel amp. I don't know how much you're spending on that Elite, but you should look at outlaw.com, they have some pre-pro/amp specials. They have a 5-channelx200 watts that would smoke any receiver on the market for your application, IMO. Or the Onkyo outlet, shoponkyo.com for some great deals. (You have to log in to get the lowest prices.) And if you're playing those games loud for long hours you will risk really heating up that receiver--damaging it in time--and if you overdrive the amps in the receiver you will eventually blow out your nice speakers. It's just my opinion, and I know many disagree, but I don't think a receiver has any place in a room with $3000 of speakers. The main issue with receivers is that you're sharing the physical space (heat and magnetic fields), and power supply between the delicate electronics and the brute force transformers and capacitors that make up the amps. In high dynamic use, the transient current draw on that power supply can be tremendous, momentarily sucking juice away from the processors.


Some kind of line conditioning is definitely good for electronics, but read some articles and shop around. I'm not a fan of Furman; they're overpriced and underbuilt (Salesmen seem to LOVE them; must have a good markup.). Look at Tripplite and others. Something like this will beat anything Furman makes:
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-LC1..._bxgy_e_text_c
You have to add up the current draw (or the wattage) of your system to select the conditioner. And there's no need to plug amps (separate amp, subwoofer amp, DefTech built-in amps) to the conditioner. Amplifiers are basically line conditioners themselves, and you want to keep that current drain from the amps isolated form your other electronics.


The gauge depends on the run length. Search online for articles about this.

Good luck with your system!

EDIT:
One more thing, the 5.1/7.1 choice...
I think you should make this decision based on whether there are games coming out with 7.1 audio, and if you want to use the system for movies, where 7.1 is becoming the standard. I didn't quite understand what the salesman said about how many feet behind you, etc. I looked at your drawings; if you do rears, they should be on the back wall splitting that wall in thirds about, not in the corners.
Ok, one more thing...
This is a personal preference, but I don't like dipole/bipole surrounds; I prefer direct radiating surrounds. Di/bipoles are trying to emulate the washed out sound from the ambience in a big movie theatre, but those movie theatre speakers are all direct. Di/bipoles are not recommended for multichannel music (SACD or DVD-A), just for movies. Just want you to know that there is a difference of opinion here, and both are valid. You should try to listen for yourself. Surrounds are the least important speaker in the setup, so don't break the bank here. ProMonitor 1000's would work very well for sides and rears if you like direct surrounds.

Are there any response numbers like these for the BP30's? I'd like to know where mine fall into place. Anyone?

we've measured the following specifications in our anechoic chamber:

Trinity.......................16hz +/- 3db

supercube reference...........18hz - 118 hz +/- 3db

SuperCube I +/- 3db 20hz - 120hz
SuperCube II +/- 3db 25hz - 125hz
SuperCube III +/- 3db 29hz - 130hz
ProSub 1000 +/- 3db 27hz - 123hz

BP-7000SC.................20hz - 20khz +/- 3db
BP-30.....................22hz - 20khz +/- 3db
BP-7001SC.................23hz - 20khz +/- 3db

BP7002 +/- 3db 25hz - 20,000 hz
BP7004 +/- 3db 27hz - 20,000 hz
BP7006 +/- 3db 29hz - 20,000 hz

Mythos ST.................24hz - 20khz +/- 3db
Mythos STS................28Hz - 20kHz +/- 3db
Mythos One................57hz - 20khz +/- 3db

SM350 +/- 3db 57 hz - 20 khz
SM450 +/- 3db 47 hz - 20 khz

CLR2000 +/- 3db 45hz - 20khz
BPX +/- 3db 55hz - 20khz
BPVX +/- 3db 48hz - 20khz

These measurements were taken with a microphone placed 1 meter away from
the front of the loudspeaker or subwoofer (which was placed on the
floor). There was no reflective sound from the walls. However, there
was a sound reflection from the floor.

Thanks,
Chet Pelkowski
Definitive Technology

and that's with the mic at 1 meter which is pretty close

move the mic back to 2 meters which is more common and those numbers will go up a bit

the trinity for instance, craigsub measured flat to 18hz +/- 3db at 2 meters

so i'd probably add about 2hz to all those numbers

of course that's anechoic. room loading will bring those numbers back down depending on the size of the room and if it's sealed or open to other rooms in the house

Thanks OTK, I'll have to print that out and keep for reference.

I purchased a Panamax 4300 awhile back specifically because it had 4 isolated high current outlets (the other 4 outlets are an isolated bank for AV components). Picked it up for half of retail off ebay. I have the powered subs in the towers, as well as the receiver connected to 3 of the 4 high current outlets. Works well for me because I only have one one wall outlet within 10 feet of my equipment and I don't want to be running extension cords from the towers all over the room to other outlets.

So, in my case the amps are already isolated...though now I'm wondering how close I am to the max power rating of the Panamax (1800 watts). The 7002's are 375x2, the Denon is 910...that's 1600+ right there. The PS3 (running) is I think ~200...then there is the DVD player, DirectTV receiver, and LCD monitor.

What do you guys think...do I need a second power conditioner, or should I suck it up and run extension cords from the towers to get them off of the Panamax? I never run everything at once of course...but I must be close to 1800 watts combined while watching blu-rays on the PS3. Hadn't really thought about this until reading this post...

It all boils down to your comfort level. My 5.1/Kuro setup upstairs has 3 UPS/surge protectors (not conditioners), with my 7002's, SCII, PS3, HD-DVD player, Sunfire Amp, Onkyo 805, DirecTV DVR, Wii, Kuro, Wii-mote charger, powered OTA antenna, dual iPod charger, and Kuro all plugged in (my CLR2500 is not plugged in due to a bad amp). Downstairs, I've got two conditioners in my rack (a Panamax and a Belkin), for just my electronics (amp, pre/pro, PS3, HD-DVD, HTPC, VCR, DVDO edge, SMS-1, DVD-Audio player, RF remote extender, projector, and several other small items), and two Panamax subwoofer surge protection units in my room for my dual subs and PM900's (one for each pair). Also, the rack is on one circuit, and the room itself (lights and outlets) are on another.

same here!

Thanks for the feedback Schroedk. How much did that 120v dedicated line run you? I assume you paid an electrician and it wasn't a DIY job?

My problem is all the upper outlets in the HT are switched, so the ONE usable, unswitched outlet behind the entertainment center has the Panamax running to it with everything hooked up as I described in my previous post. The upper outlet on that jack is not in use because it's switched. So, even if I added another 4300, or surge protector, I'd have to run an extension cord from it to one of the other unswitched outlets in the room (about 15 feet away). The other option would be to run extension cords from the powered towers, but that would be an unsightly scene around the baseboards. Ugh.

It was part of a bigger job that my electrician(s) did in renovating my theater space downstairs. In addition to that circuit, they also had to add another breaker box, since my original one is/was full, so since we had to do that anyway, I had them move the circuits for my family room system and office to the new box. In other words, all the rooms with the expensive electronics are in one breaker box (which I can simply shut off if we're going to be gone for awhile or if there's a really bad electrical storm). Also, they needed to rewire the theater for can lights, sconces, and stair lighting. And, since I live in a very rural area (3300 people in the middle of farmland), the electricians were unfamiliar with the Lutron Spacer System that I picked out to allow me to set scenes and run the lights with my Harmony 1100, and thus needed to come out several times to revise things until they were wired correctly. All told, my bill was about $1400. Unfortunately, of the three electrician outfits in the area, while they're the most reliable and punctual they're also the most expensive. I feel better now about the electrical system for my electronics, and, as long as the lights work like they're supposed to when the room is all done, it'll be worth it.

Wow Schroedk, sounds like quite a process, and an expensive one...but you'll probably never have to worry about power source, protecting your equipment, etc ever again. Maybe someday I'll be there, but right now I don't have nearly as many cool toys.

I really don't know much about this...maybe I shouldn't even worry about it right now since everything seems to work fine. I'm only using 5 channels on the Denon, so that's 650 watts (not the full 910)...and the 7002 subs are 300 watts ea. I wouldn't think the receiver and the speakers are all drawing their full rated wattage at the same time, but what do I know. If the Panamax can handle 1800, 'I think' that still leaves me with 550 for the LCD, PS3, DVD player, etc.
Maybe I'll just give Panamax a call to see what they think.

A few months ago, I wanted to condense the frequency response info for DefTech's speakers (some of them anyway) into a form I could easily reference. So I made a spreadsheet that shows the spec response as well as all the +/-3dB response data I could find. Here's a copy (as .pdf) in case anyone wants to use it.

Why some lines are highlighted or some data in red, I don't know! I'm sure it was very important at the time ....I know I used a variety of sources for the data, including Chet's info that otk just re-posted, as well as some reviewers' bench data. (I suspect red data may indicate conflicting sources.)

Attachment 143448

 

DefTech Frequency Response Table.pdf 69.6025390625k . file

what size should i be looking at? is 12" good or maybe a 15? my problem is i dont know what those ratings even mean, i really need to go over a faq or something that describes it but i cant find a good one. I.e. all those numbers posted by otk confuse me =P



im still pretty clueless about audio stuff even after looking into recievers. i never even looked at amps, hell, am not even really sure how they work. i think for a noob like me a reciever is an easier way to go. you are right though, games are louder and more dynamic that most movies so i really want something with 'oomph'


do those have that true linear power filtration the guy was harping on about? hell is that even importnt?


you know i didn't even try any regular direct radiating speakers.. this is a good point, hmm. The definitive techs sounded so good i just stuck with them. If they're suposedly better for movies then thats probably a good thing, since games are more dynamic than most movies. I wonder if i should go check some other regular speakers now.