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Definitive Owners Thread - Page 513

post #15361 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by otk View Post

excursion is the xmax of a driver

it's how far the driver can move. the further it can move, the more air it can move (more output)

i asked svs what the xmax of their ultra driver was a while back and they don't give out that info

Ah, okay. Do you know if it's an absolute kind of measurement, in that it directly correlates to output? (As opposed to being just one factor influencing output, such that a sub with greater excursion could still have lower output.) If so, I can see why companies might be reluctant to share that data, as it would allow such direct comparison between competitors.
post #15362 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by mastermaybe View Post

Yep, you know I have those 2000's too, and although not as close as yours are, they still provide quite a wallop in my 17X17 room.

I know down the road when I move to a dedicated theater/basement area, I'll get another Trinity and eventually upgrade to 7000's in the front, moving the 2000's to the side/rear., AND prolly add another pair of 2000's/7000's to complete the 7 channels.

Then: hide the children.

2 Trinities
4 7000's
2 2000's.



James

that will be sick
post #15363 of 29303
^ Keeping it simple, everything else being equal (many factors), a dynamic driver with a greater xmax value will have greater output.

James
post #15364 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Ah, okay. Do you know if it's an absolute kind of measurement, in that it directly correlates to output? (As opposed to being just one factor influencing output, such that a sub with greater excursion could still have lower output.) If so, I can see why companies might be reluctant to share that data, as it would allow such direct comparison between competitors.

like ed from svs said in that post, a lot of other factors come into play

if you were building your own sub, you might shop for a driver with a high xmax but when doing completed subwoofer shopping, people don't typically shop by xmax

i think this is the king of subwoofer drivers with the greatest xmax

http://www.audiopulse.com/products/s...vers/lms-ultra
post #15365 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by mastermaybe View Post

Yeah, I think the rounded caps on the bottom just pop off.

James

Can someone confirm this. I just looked at the bottom of my 350s and it doesn't appear that the round caps come off.

Not to mention that they are further than 6 inches apart (at least front to
back).
post #15366 of 29303
High strength hook and loop works well too.

As for building your own stands, as long as it is something you want to do, have at it. My woodworking skills got tapped out making simple bass traps and acoustic panels, lol.
post #15367 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by thecountofzero View Post

Can someone confirm this. I just looked at the bottom of my 350s and it doesn't appear that the round caps come off.

Not to mention that they are further than 6 inches apart (at least front to
back).

Yes I will say it was a bit of a guess (that the caps pop off) but they have to adhere the bottom lacquer base to the cabinet somehow, and even though my caps sit pretty flush to the bottom, it still looked like I could get under them when I looked at them last.

Take a look here and move through the pics: http://www.definitivetech.com/produc...nitor%20Stands

Perhaps they just sit upon rubber feet on top of the stand?

James
post #15368 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by mastermaybe View Post

^ I'm sure it happens (bias), but actually, I think it many times stems out of guys genuinely not trying to jargon or alienate the hell out of them (the overwhelming majority of the women I see on the boards here are newbies asking questions about tech). I just have NEVER met a women with even a passing interest in high end gear...especially audio. The blow-up of HDTV though sure helped the industry overall (in respect to women's interest). And although I've seen some "semi converted" significant others (like my fiance), most I know still laugh (or get angry) over the thought of spending a significant amount of money on something like loudspeakers or an amplifier.

Funny, I get the same way about jeans and handbags.

James


Funny this topic should come up in a DefTech thread. The sales coordinator I am working with at DefTech is a very nice woman by the name of Mary.
post #15369 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Every time Trinity talk comes up, I start getting that certain hankering....that "what if I'm missing out?" feeling. Have you ever seen a store that actually stocks and demos the Trinity? I've only seen it as a special-order item. I'd really like to hear one and know that it'd add something significant to my system (over or in addition to my Reference) before taking the plunge.

I have not heard a trinity but I came across (can't remember where) something that said the trinity has the same bass output of 7 DT reference subs! I know that's just dust in the wind without quantification but it kinda got me excited too. A couple of weeks ago I was about 2 hours away from ordering a trinity and I came across this following link with subwoofer rankings posted here on AVS

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...36#post9164136

About 30-40 subs were analyzed in a blind fashion by both "proffessional" audiophile ears and scientifically and rated for HT and music. On this list the trinity was number 10 and at number 1 and 2 is elemental designs A7-900 and the Epik conquest. I would have ordered the conquest but they have been discontinued so I decided to give the eD a try. The list above has very good info. I know that some list isn't reason to just jump ship and go with what someone else thinks is best but for a bit less money than the trinity I thought it was worth a try. I have to wait another month or so before it arrives but that should give me plenty of time to get the whole neighborhood together so they can help me carry it inside when it arrives!
post #15370 of 29303
I wish I had a local home theater store I could visit, oh woe is me! The only store left in my town is a best buy (non Magnolia) and if I told everybody that's where I go for all my HT needs and advice I would get shot dead here I don't go there by the way in case any of you were reaching for your guns just now

It would be nice to be able to talk face to face with someone though who ACTUALLY knows plenty about HT. To all of you who have a place like this you can go (especially if it's a woman) should consider yourselves blessed. Until someone in Jackson opens up a store i will continue enjoy the friendships and advice you all give hear (and try to help others out in the unlikely event I have an answer). Heck, less than a week after joining this forum I had a guy drive from 4 hrs away to demo a pair of BP2X's I was selling, bought em on the spot and turned around and headed right back home! Thanks John!
post #15371 of 29303
I don't consider myself a "bass head" but after being in this community for a while now I felt like I wanted to have the ability to rattle the rafters. Between the 7001's, svs, earthquake and now the phoenix, mission accomplished. I wish I had the oppertunity to compare the trinity, ultra, seaton, ed, and epik. That would be nearly impossible. A lightly used phoenix came up for sale, I had to pull the trigger. No regrets. The seaton woiuld have been great but I saved myself 1.2 k so I can't complain.
post #15372 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post

I don't consider myself a "bass head" but after being in this community for a while now I felt like I wanted to have the ability to rattle the rafters. Between the 7001's, svs, earthquake and now the phoenix, mission accomplished.

Do you rock all the above at once because if you do you'll need to measure bass output with a richter scale instead of a db meter!!!
post #15373 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by thecountofzero View Post

Can someone confirm this. I just looked at the bottom of my 350s and it doesn't appear that the round caps come off.

Not to mention that they are further than 6 inches apart (at least front to
back).

When I commented that I just had my 450s sitting (unattached) on some stands, I meant that their bottom endcaps were still on, so there was no need to worry about those little friction-knobby thingies getting in the way. When I said you drive screws up through the stand plate, I meant that they go directly into the speakers' end caps. Yes, this wreaks havoc with that smooth piano finish......
post #15374 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

When I commented that I just had my 450s sitting (unattached) on some stands, I meant that their bottom endcaps were still on, so there was no need to worry about those little friction-knobby thingies getting in the way. When I said you drive screws up through the stand plate, I meant that they go directly into the speakers' end caps. Yes, this wreaks havoc with that smooth piano finish......

might want to pick up a back-up set of bottom end-caps from that dude on ebay
post #15375 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post

I don't consider myself a "bass head" but after being in this community for a while now I felt like I wanted to have the ability to rattle the rafters. Between the 7001's, svs, earthquake and now the phoenix, mission accomplished. I wish I had the oppertunity to compare the trinity, ultra, seaton, ed, and epik. That would be nearly impossible. A lightly used phoenix came up for sale, I had to pull the trigger. No regrets. The seaton woiuld have been great but I saved myself 1.2 k so I can't complain.


g-bart, trust me...with that setup, you ARE a basshead
post #15376 of 29303
^^^
post #15377 of 29303
I just tried applying a reasonable amount of force to remove the base cap of one of my SM350s and couldn't do it... I'll be dimmed.
May have to remove the binding post plate to see why.
post #15378 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by headedforhighend View Post

I just tried applying a reasonable amount of force to remove the base cap of one of my SM350s and couldn't do it... I'll be dimmed.
May have to remove the binding post plate to see why.

Oh, what are you afraid of...just take a crowbar to it
post #15379 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by schroedk View Post

Oh, what are you afraid of...just take a crowbar to it

I would prefer someone else execute that procedure.
post #15380 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by lefthandluke View Post

g-bart, trust me...with that setup, you ARE a basshead

OK, guilty as charged. I always thought of the loud, obnoxious cars going by as bass heads so I don't consider it as a badge of honor
post #15381 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post

OK, guilty as charged. I always thought of the loud, obnoxious cars going by as bass heads so I don't consider it as a badge of honor

The difference is, is the bass integrated well with your other speakers to provide a smooth frequency response, or is the low end boosted 10+ dB vs. the other frequencies? You can have 2, 4, or more subs integrated well into a theater system without being termed a "basshead", or you can have a cheap 5 channel speaker system with the $2000 subwoofer cranked to "11" and rightfully be called a "basshead".

I'm with you, though. I'm happy with my dual MFW-15's in my theater, which rattles the seats or slams you in the chest WHEN THEY'RE SUPPOSED TO, not all the time. If I could fit dual subs in my family room, I would in a heartbeat, but the 7001's and SC II do a pretty respectable job.
post #15382 of 29303
[quote=mastermaybe;17870256]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ohjay View Post

the room is about 1100 ft2 and I'm not so concerned about SPL to be honest but more an all encompassing sound and I might be going about it all wrong. I was at a friend of a friends place not long ago and listened to his little 35w tube setup and was impressed with the clairity and separation in the sound. And the price.. wow.. tube setups aint cheap.. but the payoff is amazing..

I can't see myself going the tube route as I use the room/AVR for movies and audio and occasionally everyday tv watching and the 805 does all of that very well.. then I hear guys with power amps talk about clarity and separation and I get all silly in the head.. I think I just have to educate myself about how a PA works and what I'll benefit from one.[/QUOTE

Just an opinion/confession to follow.

I am a hopeless gear-head. I realized a long, long time ago that I have a disease and, unlike most of the decisions I make in life, not all of my A/V choices are rooted in either practicality or, sadly, an abundance of irrefutable fact.

Power amps are a great example of that reality in MY experience.

First, I have owned DOZENS of hi-end AVR's and power amps. Dozens. They've varied in power output from 60 watts per channel to 600 WPC. I have no doubt spent thousands of hours listening to them with every channel of media conceivable.

And you know what? I can say that, at normal or even moderate listening levels, there was nary an audible difference between ANY of them. Now, I'll openly admit to having never owned a "tube" amp you spoke of. Although I've heard them and have always felt that some, to me anyways, OPENLY color the sound in a way that simply appears un-natural to ME. My feelings are solely built around and upon solid-state amplifier tech that represent 99% of the market.

Now, I know some will discard my aforementioned assertion and my cotton-filled ears. Good for them. I don't own everyone's ears, so I cant speak for them. All I can do is provide my own, rather extensive experience.

Now, does this mean every amplifier is equal in every regard? Of course not. Larger (or more efficiently designed) amps, with more robust power supplies and better heat dissipation (amongst other factors) will play LOUDER, likely last longer, and MAY provide a bit more punch in the area of dynamics (key word being may).

BUT, imperatively, this is usually only realized at significantly higher levels than those most humans subject themselves to 98+% of the time. And, importantly, with the power encased in many well-built AVR's these days, these "normal" (and even above normal) levels are easily achieved in most small to average sized rooms.

The science doesn't lie. In a 20X20 room (the size of a normal living room) a well-constructed AVR delivering 100 clean watts to a pair of moderately sensitive loudspeakers (like DT's) can deliver SPL's at or near 100db's ATLP.

Put it like this: there's a well-known (and despised within some hi-end circles) gentleman named Richard Clark who's had a long-standing $10,000 prize/reward to ANYONE who can detect and differentiate properly functioning, level-adjusted power amplifiers.

Thousands have taken the test.

The $10,000 is still in Richard's pocket.

DO I think those who purchase separate power amps are dunderheads?

No. I own them and I am certainly not a dunderhead. They have their place in a small percentage of home applications.

Do I think the VAST majority of the "audiophile's" money is better spent on quality source material, loudspeakers (and their configuration), and room treatments?

Absolutely.

take it for whatever it's worth.


James

Thanks James... a little perspective never hurts..
post #15383 of 29303
How are people mounting the CLR2002? I want to put it on a shelf directly above the TV, at approximately 32 lbs, I'd have to get a pretty sturdy shelf.

Suggestions?
post #15384 of 29303
After calibrating my BP7006's and CLR2300 to 70db with my SPL meter on my Pioneer 92TXH receiver, most of the trims came out in the minus range (L -2, C -4.5, R -3, SR +1, SL -3.5, SW -4.5). Although the speakers sound good, if a little weak and peaky at times especially with dialog, if I push the trims up 5db to be at 75db, I notice these speakers sound much better. There is a distinct difference in how the built-in subs sound between the trims in the minus range and when they are closer to 0. Now, this could be the result of the sound stage created by having the trims in the minus range but I was curious to see if anyone else has experienced this.
post #15385 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurolicious View Post

After calibrating my BP7006's and CLR2300 to 70db with my SPL meter on my Pioneer 92TXH receiver, most of the trims came out in the minus range (L -2, C -4.5, R -3, SR +1, SL -3.5, SW -4.5). Although the speakers sound good, if a little weak and peaky at times especially with dialog, if I push the trims up 5db to be at 75db, I notice these speakers sound much better. There is a distinct difference in how the built-in subs sound between the trims in the minus range and when they are closer to 0. Now, this could be the result of the sound stage created by having the trims in the minus range but I was curious to see if anyone else has experienced this.

I generally go about setting the speaker levels in a different way. I try to perform the minimum amount of digital adjustment as possible. I.e. I will keep the front L/R speaker at zero trim and adjust the main volume to 70-75dB measured at the listening postion with a RS meter on a tripod. In an ideal room the front and left front speakers should play at the same level and I would play with the speaker position if they were not. Then blend the center & surround speakers to match. I do a lot of stereo only listening. I believe that the volume (0dB level) can be a relative volume level that is influenced by the speaker level trims. I have an older Denon 3801. The maximum volume goes up to +18dB when all the speaker trims are all at 0dB. However the maximum volume setting of the dial is reduced accordingly if one or more of the speakers needs to be boosted. I.e. Rear surround has a +4dB means that the maximum volume setting can only be turned to +14dB.

Hence I would think that the absolute volume level at the AVR 0dB setting is changed because of the offsets for various speaker volumes. It is also possible that the maximum volume setting is just limited as the boosted channel has reached its max output due to the internal boost. In my system I am confortable with the volume from around -20dB up to -04dB depending on content.
post #15386 of 29303
Are you guys mounting your BPX's or putting them on stands?

I guess it depends on how high on the rear wall they should be placed.

Any suggestions?

I'm running 7002 fronts, 7002 surrounds, BPX rear surrounds, SC Ref.

I'm wondering if I should level the BPX's at the same height as the 7002s?

In which case, I'd rather just have them on stands so I don't have to drill holes in the wall.

Thanks.
post #15387 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by lodit View Post

Are you guys mounting your BPX's or putting them on stands?

I guess it depends on how high on the rear wall they should be placed.

Any suggestions?

I'm running 7002 fronts, 7002 surrounds, BPX rear surrounds, SC Ref.

I'm wondering if I should level the BPX's at the same height as the 7002s?

In which case, I'd rather just have them on stands so I don't have to drill holes in the wall.

Thanks.

I think it depends on what "camp" you are in. Mounting bipolars up higher than the main speakers is usually intended for movie sound reproduction. However. Pure surround music recordings are usually recorded as if all the speakers (Direct Radiating ) in the mulitchannel system are indentical and at the same height. My AVR goes as far as having different surround speaker options (Speakers A for movies or Speaker B for music) that allow for different types of surround speakers

But I have BP2X mounted high and away and enjoy M. Channel music just fine.
post #15388 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by lodit View Post

Are you guys mounting your BPX's or putting them on stands?

Mine are mounted up high due to room constraints. It would be better if they were lower, but I am still happy with the diffuse sound.
post #15389 of 29303
Quote:
Originally Posted by lodit View Post

Are you guys mounting your BPX's or putting them on stands?

I guess it depends on how high on the rear wall they should be placed.

Any suggestions?

I'm running 7002 fronts, 7002 surrounds, BPX rear surrounds, SC Ref.

I'm wondering if I should level the BPX's at the same height as the 7002s?

In which case, I'd rather just have them on stands so I don't have to drill holes in the wall.

Thanks.

Your setup is a little different than most, mine included. I run BPXs on the side surround with the option to put direct radiating SM350s in the rear, only because I don't have some more BP towers to try out in the rear . I find that the BPXs sound far superior above and just behind the listening position.
I would guess your BPXs would be good mounted high also even in the rear. The BP7002 in your side position would produce such a large sound field that they would seem to be on the same plane anyway.
Did you previously try out the BPXs on the sides and didn't like it or is there some room restraints?
If you have two step ladders to lean against the wall, you could try out some different heights and wall locations.
post #15390 of 29303
Anyone have any suggestions on a wall mounted shelf sturdy enough to support the CLR2002?
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