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Definitive Owners Thread - Page 515

post #15421 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by socwrkr View Post

Thanks for the suggestions. Since i won't be able to audition the hsu, ed, or svs in person, do you guys have any suggestions as far as which one is better than the others (including the scII). I would be using it for about 85 percent movies and the rest music.
Thanks

All of these companies are top notch including Def Tech. It would be a good approach to determine your budget, what you want to achieve, sub size and appearance, how much output you require to fill your room, and anything else that's important to you. This may narrow down your choices to consider and find the sub that is better for your needs.
The subwoofer forum is a good place to get a wide variety of opinions and the individual subs' home-thread as well. I would advise you to phrase your question without the wording "which one is better". That may not get you the input that you're looking for
post #15422 of 29304
Guy has a Supercube Reference for $1000 on craigslist... assuming its in good condition that seems like a good deal right? I know if I posted this in the sub forums I would get the "buy an SVS or a HSU" or whatever... but the wife would like a matching sub to the fronts and when I talk this kind of money she gets a bigger say. Anyway all thoughts/comments are appreciated!
post #15423 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by laeriq View Post

I know if I posted this in the sub forums I would get the "buy an SVS or a HSU" or whatever...

LOL!!!

you can't go into that forum without tripping over an SVS thread

if there aren't 5 new ones a day, people start to panic
post #15424 of 29304
ok, that makes sense, thanks, i'll check out the sub forum.
post #15425 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by otk View Post

LOL!!!

you can't go into that forum without tripping over an SVS thread

if there aren't 5 new ones a day, people start to panic

Truer words were never spoken. I'm sure that SVS (and most the subs discussed in that forum) puts out a great product, but I like to listen to what I'm going to buy and I don't live close enough to Ohio to hear their stuff, no matter how loud they turn it up
post #15426 of 29304
For those debating the LCR2300 vs the LCR 2002, here's how I handled the lack of bass from the center. I have BP7001s as my mains and before I got the 7001s I had bought a LCR2002 on ebay (new in box) although the 2002 is an outstanding speaker, I had to use it as small crossed at 70Hz (according to Audyssey). Then I thought about buying a CLR2000 and couldnt afford the LCR3000, then one day while browsing a pawn shop I stumbled across a flat designed subwoofer (box is only 8" high) that was flat to about 40Hz (granted nothing a bass head would love) after reading this thread, I found that most here with the LCR3000 were crossing over at 40Hz anyway.

So I bought the sub hooked it up to the center channel only, I feel this works better than LCR3000 design in the fact that the LCR2002 has a larger cabinet without a huge built in sub (as compared to the LCR3000) the outboard sub (10" with 150 watt amp) using it's own cabinet and about the size of a LCR3000 uses the entire space without the mid and tweet taking up room. The sub cost me 80.00 sits right next to my vertically aligned LCR2002 and I get the best of both worlds for very cheap. The LCR2002 cost me 300.00 (new) and the sub 80.00 so for less than 400.00 I have the bass response and functionality of the LCR3000 with the smaller 5.25" bring me tighter mid range than the 6.5" mid range drivers.

That and the panning effect with the 7001s is seamless. I have the 7001s also crossed at 40hz and my SVS PB12 NSD/2 handles everything below that. Bass is very tight and controlled.
post #15427 of 29304
looking at the mythos ssa 50 and prosub 800 for a small condo living room HT. Thoughts, opinions, recommendations? I have a 50" plasma on table stand and driving with denon avr1910...room is roughly 18' x 12'

Many thanks!
post #15428 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaugster View Post

I think it depends on what "camp" you are in. Mounting bipolars up higher than the main speakers is usually intended for movie sound reproduction. However. Pure surround music recordings are usually recorded as if all the speakers (Direct Radiating ) in the mulitchannel system are indentical and at the same height. My AVR goes as far as having different surround speaker options (Speakers A for movies or Speaker B for music) that allow for different types of surround speakers

But I have BP2X mounted high and away and enjoy M. Channel music just fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by badgerpilot View Post

Mine are mounted up high due to room constraints. It would be better if they were lower, but I am still happy with the diffuse sound.

Quote:
Originally Posted by headedforhighend View Post

Your setup is a little different than most, mine included. I run BPXs on the side surround with the option to put direct radiating SM350s in the rear, only because I don't have some more BP towers to try out in the rear . I find that the BPXs sound far superior above and just behind the listening position.
I would guess your BPXs would be good mounted high also even in the rear. The BP7002 in your side position would produce such a large sound field that they would seem to be on the same plane anyway.
Did you previously try out the BPXs on the sides and didn't like it or is there some room restraints?
If you have two step ladders to lean against the wall, you could try out some different heights and wall locations.

Thanks for the responses.

I was advised to use the BP7002s for side surrounds because more bass effects were programmed into those channels than the rear surrounds.

They also work better for my room the way it's laid out if the BPX's are used for rears. (I have side space between the 7002s and the side walls, but not the rear).

I've tried the BPXs on the sides, but because of the room configuration and the supposed sound programming for side surround channels I've put the 7002s on the sides instead.

I guess I'll just have to try out different music/movie scenarios with the BPX's at ear level and higher up to determine what works best.

Any suggestions for scenes/music that can help figure that out?

Much appreciated in advance.
post #15429 of 29304
So I've got this setup right now.

BP7002 F/L-R
CLR2500 C/
BP2X S/L-R
STUDIOMONITOR 450 SB/L-R
SUPERCUBE II SUB

PIONEER ELITE PRO 150FD
PIONEER ELITE SC-27
PIONEER ELITE BDP-23FD

MONOPRICE WIRES/CABLES
ROOM -25X60X10H

I wanted to replace my surround back to BP7006, or use my BP7002 for the surround back and use my Martin Logan Areus for fronts. Any thoughts?
post #15430 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pnoyworx View Post

So I've got this setup right now.

BP7002 F/L-R
CLR2500 C/
BP2X S/L-R
STUDIOMONITOR 450 SB/L-R
SUPERCUBE II SUB

PIONEER ELITE PRO 150FD
PIONEER ELITE SC-27
PIONEER ELITE BDP-23FD

MONOPRICE WIRES/CABLES
ROOM -25X60X10H

I wanted to replace my surround back to BP7006, or use my BP7002 for the surround back and use my Martin Logan Areus for fronts. Any thoughts?

Martin logan makes excellent speakers but they have a different signature sound. I don't know if mixing them in with definitives would work well. If you already have 7006's you could try that. If you dont, try speakers that have the same 5.25" drivers that your 7002's have. It is not necessary to have a powered sub in your rear speakers. I am using bp 20's as rears with my 7001's. Worked out very well.
post #15431 of 29304
Time to fill in the last blank on the system....the reciever. How much power are most of you folks running now? I've been going along with a 75w 1610Denon I picked up on Craigslist for a song, and now it's time to bump up a bit. I'm trying to find that sweet spot where I have enough power for the towers to keep them safe and happy and let them shine. Beyond the Audessey package, I'm not too concerned with features.The Denon 2310 or equivalent at 105w seems like a nice sweet spot. Room is 20 x 11 x 8 with the system crammed in one half (11 x 11).

Currently running:

2 x BP10B
2 x SM450
1 x CLR 2500
post #15432 of 29304
hey y'all...how about finding me some (black) VXs? getting desperate over here!

new 9.2 pre/pro (5507) enroute, and i need those VXs so i can shuffle surrounds and use the 1.2x as wides...
post #15433 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by dookie1 View Post

hey y'all...how about finding me some (black) VXs? getting desperate over here!

new 9.2 pre/pro (5507) enroute, and i need those VXs so i can shuffle surrounds and use the 1.2x as wides...

A local dealer had some demos but they are gone. I had to settle for white but it worked out. Guess you will have to keep an eye on ebay/audiogon.
post #15434 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevergreen View Post

Time to fill in the last blank on the system....the reciever. How much power are most of you folks running now? I've been going along with a 75w 1610Denon I picked up on Craigslist for a song, and now it's time to bump up a bit. I'm trying to find that sweet spot where I have enough power for the towers to keep them safe and happy and let them shine. Beyond the Audessey package, I'm not too concerned with features.The Denon 2310 or equivalent at 105w seems like a nice sweet spot. Room is 20 x 11 x 8 with the system crammed in one half (11 x 11).

Currently running:

2 x BP10B
2 x SM450
1 x CLR 2500

I use a Denon 3801 that's OEM rated at 105W per channel. My home theater "room" is about 16' wide and 40' deep with 9' ceilings. It’s actually my home's living room, dining area and kitchen altogether. I have the rear center channel mounted high up on top of the kitchen cabinets. The living room has carpet flooring where as the rest is wood floors. We just moved in this summer so the furniture is a bit sparse. Just a single couch right now.

Using BP7002TL's, CLR2500 and BP2X' - My maximum volume is usually around -04dB. So I am not even cranking it to the 0dB reference level of the AVR and it goes way past +11(read as Spinal Tap). My room is kind of large too.

The 3801 uses 7A of electricity. This would only equal about 90W per channel with all seven channels driven based on some Fuzzy math for older class A/B amps. The formula I used won’t apply to the more efficient Class D amps that are more popular now and is just a reference that I read on this site somewhere.

(7A * 120VAC / 7 Channels * 75%) = 90W

I actually am only using 5 channels so my power might be more like 126W. Maybe it's just wishful thinking but whatever you chose to believe, I think it is plenty of clean loud power.

(7A * 120VAC / 5 Channels * 75%) = 126W
post #15435 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaugster View Post

I use a Denon 3801 that's OEM rated at 105W per channel. My home theater "room" is about 16' wide and 40' deep with 9' ceilings. It’s actually my home's living room, dining area and kitchen altogether. I have the rear center channel mounted high up on top of the kitchen cabinets. The living room has carpet flooring where as the rest is wood floors. We just moved in this summer so the furniture is a bit sparse. Just a single couch right now.

That's a big "room"! No doubt that as long as the rated power/reality ratio hasn't shifted much, 105 will be plenty.

Thanks
post #15436 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by dookie1 View Post

hey y'all...how about finding me some (black) VXs? getting desperate over here!

new 9.2 pre/pro (5507) enroute, and i need those VXs so i can shuffle surrounds and use the 1.2x as wides...

Are you the dookie pkg on Ebay? If so, how are you wiring the drivers?
post #15437 of 29304
What is the difference? The CLR1000 seems to be highly recommended so as I look for one I'd like to know the physical difference and for that matter the difference in sound?
post #15438 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by UofAZ1 View Post

For those debating the LCR2300 vs the LCR 2002, here's how I handled the lack of bass from the center. I have BP7001s as my mains and before I got the 7001s I had bought a LCR2002 on ebay (new in box) although the 2002 is an outstanding speaker, I had to use it as small crossed at 70Hz (according to Audyssey). Then I thought about buying a CLR2000 and couldnt afford the LCR3000, then one day while browsing a pawn shop I stumbled across a flat designed subwoofer (box is only 8" high) that was flat to about 40Hz (granted nothing a bass head would love) after reading this thread, I found that most here with the LCR3000 were crossing over at 40Hz anyway.

So I bought the sub hooked it up to the center channel only, I feel this works better than LCR3000 design in the fact that the LCR2002 has a larger cabinet without a huge built in sub (as compared to the LCR3000) the outboard sub (10" with 150 watt amp) using it's own cabinet and about the size of a LCR3000 uses the entire space without the mid and tweet taking up room. The sub cost me 80.00 sits right next to my vertically aligned LCR2002 and I get the best of both worlds for very cheap. The LCR2002 cost me 300.00 (new) and the sub 80.00 so for less than 400.00 I have the bass response and functionality of the LCR3000 with the smaller 5.25" bring me tighter mid range than the 6.5" mid range drivers.

That and the panning effect with the 7001s is seamless. I have the 7001s also crossed at 40hz and my SVS PB12 NSD/2 handles everything below that. Bass is very tight and controlled.

Very clever solution. Thanks for the detailed write-up. There are so many different room configurations and restraints that people have to deal with (let alone budgets), that I think it's really helpful to see creative solutions people can try. Seems like your center+sub approach might also be good for those where cabinetry doesn't allow for a bottom-firing woofer in the center.
post #15439 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoline View Post

What is the difference? The CLR1000 seems to be highly recommended so as I look for one I'd like to know the physical difference and for that matter the difference in sound?

Without looking up to confirm, I think the "b" models use the aluminum (metal, at least, I think it's titanium) tweeter that's used in the current lineup of speakers, whereas the 1000 (without the b) uses a silk tweeter. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong. If I also remember correctly, there have been some comments on here by users who couldn't really hear a major audible difference between the tweeters, so either SHOULD work with regard to voice-matching speakers. All of my speakers use the metal tweeters, so I can't confirm this personally.
post #15440 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

Very clever solution. Thanks for the detailed write-up. There are so many different room configurations and restraints that people have to deal with (let alone budgets), that I think it's really helpful to see creative solutions people can try. Seems like your center+sub approach might also be good for those where cabinetry doesn't allow for a bottom-firing woofer in the center.

way before the powered centers came out as an experiment i took one of my powerfield 1500s and used it with my clr2000 via the speaker level in/outs on the sub

it was pretty cool
post #15441 of 29304
I shoulda known you'd have this one covered! Is there any configuration you haven't tried yet?
post #15442 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by progprog View Post

I shoulda known you'd have this one covered! Is there any configuration you haven't tried yet?

i don't think so

i'm waiting to hear back from adz to see how he made out with the 7.2 system using BPVX's all the way around with dual trinitys
post #15443 of 29304
I have a similar setup-
7006-f,2002-c,450-r,vsx94 receiver,bdp95 blu ray and supercube 1
Recently replaced my cube 1 with a martin logan dynamo sub.
The 7006's are nice as well. They should be good for being used as rears.
Was thinking about selling my 7006's and upgrading to some B&W's for the fronts

Anyone near Chicago looking for some speakers I have a set of BP-8 towers, a set of 7006's and a supercube 1. PM if interested-
post #15444 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Felton007 View Post

Are you the dookie pkg on Ebay? If so, how are you wiring the drivers?

i am. the cost of the white set, plus the cost of the black components, does not equate to a good value...so i'm not assembling anything. i was just looking to swap the bits from white to black.
post #15445 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by schroedk View Post

Without looking up to confirm, I think the "b" models use the aluminum (metal, at least, I think it's titanium) tweeter that's used in the current lineup of speakers, whereas the 1000 (without the b) uses a silk tweeter

true. specs list it as 'alloy dome', which i interpret as aluminum...but it could be a ti alloy i suppose.

other differences: 2000 has 2 sets of binding posts, the typical end cap/sock construction, and slightly different cabinet dimensions. cabinet on the 1000b is matte black vinyl 'veneer' over MDF, with a snap on framed cloth grille over the front.
post #15446 of 29304
otk,

I have the old BP2000's up front with a CLR2000 center channel. I have 1 Reference sub but I'm getting another one in the near future.
My question is--What do I do with the built in subs in the towers? I'm not using the lfe, so do I set them to large or small, do I even use the sub in the towers or just go with the Ref. subs, and should I even bother with plugging the subs amp in the towers into the wall outlet?
TIA,
Ken
post #15447 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

otk,

I have the old BP2000's up front with a CLR2000 center channel. I have 1 Reference sub but I'm getting another one in the near future.
My question is--What do I do with the built in subs in the towers? I'm not using the lfe, so do I set them to large or small, do I even use the sub in the towers or just go with the Ref. subs, and should I even bother with plugging the subs amp in the towers into the wall outlet?
TIA,
Ken

I'm not otk, and I don't play one on tv. I would suggest just running speaker to the bp2000's and set them to small, x them over at 40hz if you have that option. DO NOT UNPLUG THEM.
post #15448 of 29304
Definitive Technology C/L/R 2002

Or

Definitive Technology Mythos Three Dual 4-1/2" 2-Way

They are around the same price. Thanks
post #15449 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by michela1111 View Post

Definitive Technology C/L/R 2002

Or

Definitive Technology Mythos Three Dual 4-1/2" 2-Way

They are around the same price. Thanks

If your mains are the STS or Mythos 4, then the M3 should get serious consideration as the center.
The CLR2002 is an excellent center channel, but proper voice matching will allow one speaker to excel and another non-matching speaker fail, even if it's considered a better speaker.
post #15450 of 29304
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensmith48 View Post

otk,

I have the old BP2000's up front with a CLR2000 center channel. I have 1 Reference sub but I'm getting another one in the near future.
My question is--What do I do with the built in subs in the towers? I'm not using the lfe, so do I set them to large or small, do I even use the sub in the towers or just go with the Ref. subs, and should I even bother with plugging the subs amp in the towers into the wall outlet?
TIA,
Ken

first of all always keep the subs in the bp2000s turned on and properly calibrated to the mids and highs

once set up like that forget that there's a built in sub and treat them like any other full-range tower

you can try setting them to large or small with a 40hz crossover and see which sounds best to you in your room

i have extra subs for the LFE channel and i leave all my channels set to large. that seems to work best for me but every room is different and setting them to small may or may not sound better in another room
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