AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Definitive Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Definitive Owners Thread - Page 786

post #23551 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by pilot20 View Post

You will not achieve stereo subs by using the LFE inputs, nor do you want stereo subs. All the low frequency sent via LFE is summed and sent out as a mono signal. No matter how many times you split the signal, it is still mono. Subwoofer output is supposed to be as non-directional as possible, hence the typical 80hz crossover settings for subs. Stereo is supposed to be directional so you can hear separate sounds coming from the left channel and the right channel. You want the bass to blend with your main speakers, not stand out from them.

Having 2 subs does`t make them stereo, stereo is a dedication of 2 separate left and right channels whereas the sub channel is a dedicated sub frequency mono channel.

Depends on your AVR/Pre-Pro

I'm an LFE/RCA user on all four of my towers and have always had dedicated left and right sub/LFE outputs - a typical configuration on the Yamaha Flagship AVR's. And they are not just sub one and two, they are separate left and right channel feeds (or front back however you want it configured).

Both left towers are split and driven off the left LFE output, and the right two towers the same on the right LFE output. Yes, typically a single sub should not be "identifiable" in regards to location. But I know in my HT if there is LFE "and/or" bass freqs moving from one side to the other matching the video/whats going on in the movie, its identifiable and adds to the realism.

Now, what I don't know is if your AVR "has" dedicated left/right LFE/Sub outs, if the LFE is also split correctly (pure) if running speakers as large and set to "no Sub" etc.? You would think if speaker wire only and configured appropriately it should. I guess one way to check is during a test tone etc configuration process. I know my Yamaha YPAO configures left and right subs but I have always had the RCA's in place.


Bghead8che:
Rear speaker height: I would just have them on the floor.
LFE/RCA runs: Like otk mentioned, if you only run two as in the front left and right, it's not worth it. What I would want to try if you (regardless if you AVR has dual LFE/Sub outputs), "is" running "all 4" towers via the LFE/RCA runs. Depending how your AVR is set up and or how it handles LFE/bass, you very well could get much better LFE performance ensuring full LFE/Bass is sent to all four vise relying on what is sent "per channel" via speaker wire etc. IE: If just speaker wire and towers set to large you may only get LFE to the front mains and your rear towers left to only "rear channel surround" low freqs etc. Having all off an LFE/Sub output ensures all four tower subs/amps receive the full LFE/bass signals etc. I don't have any standalone subs either and this is one of the key reasons I utilize the LFE input on each tower.

Cheers
post #23552 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Depends on your AVR/Pre-Pro


On my Onkyo, I have two sub outs, but they send out the same signal, as they are just split internally for convenience.

I'm not familiar with Yamaha AVR's.
post #23553 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by pilot20 View Post

On my Onkyo, I have two sub outs, but they send out the same signal, as they are just split internally for convenience.

I'm not familiar with Yamaha AVR's.

Well the thing is, no matter how you slice it, when it comes to movies and 5.1/7.1 (or more) formats there is still only one LFE channel - thus for AVR's without special effects modes yet two Sub outs, they "are" just internally split etc.

The Yamaha DSP adds/aids in splitting left/right LFE and Low Frequency Signals for movies and music. Fore two channel music it sends the Low Frequency Signals to the dedicated left/right sub of course.

I've read articles hinting on possible no kidding 7.2 DD or DTS yet I don't believe that is happening yet...

Cheers
post #23554 of 29342
So I could not find any loudspeaker risers so I got these instead:

http://www.sanus.com/us/en/products/...s/av-euro/EFAB

The Sanus stand will lift the speakers about 12" off the floor which should work great! $165 though, yikes.

Regarding the LFE.... I completely forgot that the signal was mono so a y-splitter makes sense. For simplicity and to save $$ I am going to run all four towers full range with speaker cable. I'm pretty sure bass will be directed to all four speakers since there are 5 discrete channels.

I am going to be running all 4 towers full range, as I've mentioned. I think there will be plenty of bass though most people think a sub is going to be needed. I'll try it first and then spend the extra money.

I have an Onkyo 5508. Is there a way to figure out at what level the bass begins to distort and have the SSP cut it off. In other words a high pass filter at around 25hz or so? Or is the limiter in the 8080s pretty good at doing its job? I'm pretty sure it has a high pass filter already.

-Brian
post #23555 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bghead8che View Post

So I could not find any loudspeaker risers so I got these instead:

http://www.sanus.com/us/en/products/...s/av-euro/EFAB

The Sanus stand will lift the speakers about 12" off the floor which should work great! $165 though, yikes.

Regarding the LFE.... I completely forgot that the signal was mono so a y-splitter makes sense. For simplicity and to save $$ I am going to run all four towers full range with speaker cable. I'm pretty sure bass will be directed to all four speakers since there are 5 discrete channels.

I am going to be running all 4 towers full range, as I've mentioned. I think there will be plenty of bass though most people think a sub is going to be needed. I'll try it first and then spend the extra money.

I have an Onkyo 5508. Is there a way to figure out at what level the bass begins to distort and have the SSP cut it off. In other words a high pass filter at around 25hz or so? Or is the limiter in the 8080s pretty good at doing its job? I'm pretty sure it has a high pass filter already.

-Brian

a system like yours deserves a seaton submersive or 2
post #23556 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bghead8che View Post

So I could not find any loudspeaker risers so I got these instead:

http://www.sanus.com/us/en/products/...s/av-euro/EFAB

The Sanus stand will lift the speakers about 12" off the floor which should work great! $165 though, yikes.

Regarding the LFE.... I completely forgot that the signal was mono so a y-splitter makes sense. For simplicity and to save $$ I am going to run all four towers full range with speaker cable. I'm pretty sure bass will be directed to all four speakers since there are 5 discrete channels.

I am going to be running all 4 towers full range, as I've mentioned. I think there will be plenty of bass though most people think a sub is going to be needed. I'll try it first and then spend the extra money.

I have an Onkyo 5508. Is there a way to figure out at what level the bass begins to distort and have the SSP cut it off. In other words a high pass filter at around 25hz or so? Or is the limiter in the 8080s pretty good at doing its job? I'm pretty sure it has a high pass filter already.

-Brian

Sound Anchors makes some outstanding speaker stands of ALL designs -- check their Web site.

MikeSp
post #23557 of 29342
I got a pair of bp7001s but the subs are on the same side, is that correct?
post #23558 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by otk View Post

a system like yours deserves a seaton submersive or 2

I would have strongly considered Seaton Submersives IF IF IF there was an actual organized Web site from which to glean information -- the last times I tried to find detailed and organized information, I was referred to a blog as I recall and of course, the owner was very willing to discuss the subs. Guess I am too spoiled in being able to gaze at Sites and look at data and images in order to make decisions as well as reviews, so I went with JL Audio Fathoms instead.

MikeSp
post #23559 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbassinger View Post

I got a pair of bp7001s but the subs are on the same side, is that correct?

Assuming that you mean that the subs are both on the left side or both on the right side:

Isn't there an active driver on one side and a passive radiator on the other for the 7001's? 7001's are sold in matching pairs so that the active radiators can be placed on the outside away from each other OR on the inside toward each other but NEVER facing the same direction -- right or left...

MikeSp
post #23560 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeSp View Post

Assuming that you mean that the subs are both on the left side or both on the right side:

Isn't there an active driver on one side and a passive radiator on the other for the 7001's? 7001's are sold in matching pairs so that the active radiators can be placed on the outside away from each other OR on the inside toward each other but NEVER facing the same direction -- right or left...

MikeSp

I'm pretty sure like the 7000's, the 7001's have 2 passives and a sub driver. A passive on the 1 side and a passive and the driver on the other side. Sounds like he got two #1 or two #2 speakers and not a mirrored pair. (#1/#2)
post #23561 of 29342
I've been keeping an eye out for a pair of good 2 channel speakers that would present a more "second row" type of sound. I just picked up some dynaudio countour 1.8's from a local seller off agon. They are 2 ways with 2 6" drivers and a tweeter per channel. I have them in the same space as my dt setup. they are 6' in front of my seat and 6' apart. I am using the same amp to drive them as I do my 7001's. I'm just posting this for anyone, like me, that likes to blow money, er, is a music nut. For a very wide, open soundstage that fills the room, nothing campares to the bipolar dt speakers. They have a very solid comand of the soundstage when placed properly. The dyns dont play nearly as loud with the same power. They do hoever place you right in front of the stage. I am amazed at the tight yet robust bass these small towers produce. I do not feel the need to use any subs with them, I use the "pure audio" mode which defeats the subs. The mids and highs are very lifelike. One of my favorite recordings in "downright upright" by Brian Bromberg. His upright bass sound so realistic as do all the other instruments. They truly reveal how much the recording of music can differ from bad to ok to exceptional. My 7001's are not going anywhere but the dyns can put you in the music like nothing else I have ever heard.
post #23562 of 29342
congrats g bart

that's a pretty high-end brand

are they toed in at all ?
post #23563 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

I'm pretty sure like the 7000's, the 7001's have 2 passives and a sub driver. A passive on the 1 side and a passive and the driver on the other side. Sounds like he got two #1 or two #2 speakers and not a mirrored pair. (#1/#2)

How big of an impact will that make having the same tower?
post #23564 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by otk View Post

congrats g bart

that's a pretty high-end brand

are they toed in at all ?

Thanks. They are slightly toed in. They were a little easier to move around than the 7001's. One of the things I like about dyn is that they are understated. They don't blow your sox off when you look at them but when you hear them, that's another story.
post #23565 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post

I've been keeping an eye out for a pair of good 2 channel speakers that would present a more "second row" type of sound. I just picked up some dynaudio countour 1.8's from a local seller off agon. They are 2 ways with 2 6" drivers and a tweeter per channel. I have them in the same space as my dt setup. they are 6' in front of my seat and 6' apart. I am using the same amp to drive them as I do my 7001's. I'm just posting this for anyone, like me, that likes to blow money, er, is a music nut. For a very wide, open soundstage that fills the room, nothing campares to the bipolar dt speakers. They have a very solid comand of the soundstage when placed properly. The dyns dont play nearly as loud with the same power. They do hoever place you right in front of the stage. I am amazed at the tight yet robust bass these small towers produce. I do not feel the need to use any subs with them, I use the "pure audio" mode which defeats the subs. The mids and highs are very lifelike. One of my favorite recordings in "downright upright" by Brian Bromberg. His upright bass sound so realistic as do all the other instruments. They truly reveal how much the recording of music can differ from bad to ok to exceptional. My 7001's are not going anywhere but the dyns can put you in the music like nothing else I have ever heard.

Awesome! Congratulations, and enjoy!
post #23566 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbassinger View Post


How big of an impact will that make having the same tower?

Probably not much considering the passive radiators.

Did you purchase them used/off eBay?
post #23567 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by bbassinger View Post

How big of an impact will that make having the same tower?

I have a pair of identical 7002's, and I never heard any anomalies or problems in my room. They were in my family room, with side walls at least 8' away from each speaker, so that may have been a factor. They're in storage now, and will eventually be used in a basement setup, again in the middle of a long wall with no sidewall reflections to worry about, when renovations are finished.

I would say try them, and if they sound okay, then no worries.
post #23568 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post

Thanks. They are slightly toed in. They were a little easier to move around than the 7001's. One of the things I like about dyn is that they are understated. They don't blow your sox off when you look at them but when you hear them, that's another story.

which finish did you get?

they look pretty cool

post #23569 of 29342
They are pretty nice, but when did this thread switched to Dynaudio from the DTs???
post #23570 of 29342
OK. Here are two different reviews and measurements of the 8080 ST and 8060ST:

http://www.hometheater.com/content/d...-labs-measures

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/con...eaker-system-2

-----------------------------------------------------

I am confused on the bass response. The HT review shows the 8080ST as having bass response down -3db at 35HZ (not exactly "full range").

S&V however shows the 8060s (the lower model) as having bass response from 20hz to 3.15 of 103.6 DB which is very respectable. Commenting on the bass response of the 8060s they said:

"The subwoofer section of the BP-8060ST is fairly kicking given the speaker's compact size. Low bass output (40-63 Hz) averages 110.5 dB and ultra-low bass (20-31.5 Hz) output averages just 103.6 dB numbers that put some midsize subwoofers to shame. It's not distortion that limits the useful output in this case but either mechanical noise from the woofer cone or the amplifier's internal limiter stepping in to protect the driver."

I am confused by the huge discrepancy is measurements. How can one show a -3DB point at 35hz and the other showing 103.6 DB all the way down to 20hz?

Also, obviously the bass response is for one speaker. Running two speakers how much more DB can you expect from 20HZ to 40HZ?

Any thoughts on the why the numbers could be so different?

Thanks,

-Brian
post #23571 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by audvidgeek123 View Post

They are pretty nice, but when did this thread switched to Dynaudio from the DTs???

today
post #23572 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by otk View Post

today

lol!
post #23573 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by otk View Post

which finish did you get?

they look pretty cool


Those are the actual ones I bought. And, thanks for having my back otk. If you are ever in Cleveland I'll by you a beer
post #23574 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post

Those are the actual ones I bought. And, thanks for having my back otk. If you are ever in Cleveland I'll by you a beer

post #23575 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post
Those are the actual ones I bought. And, thanks for having my back otk. If you are ever in Cleveland I'll by you a beer


hey, wait a minute here...

my favorite running back was leroy kelly...

AND i like beer...
post #23576 of 29342
Ok so I have attached a drawing of my somewhat odd room layout and am just curious as to how you guys would recomend setting up my system for the best possible sound. I use this for 100% movies. Speakers are Def Tech Bp30's mains with clr2000 center and bp1x for side surrounds. Sub is a single AV123 MFW-15 and receiver is Denon AVR-891. I dont think there is any way I can use any rears so I am guessing side surrounds are my only option. But based on my drawing, how would you recomend setting this up??
LL
post #23577 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by john lewis View Post

Ok so I have attached a drawing of my somewhat odd room layout and am just curious as to how you guys would recomend setting up my system for the best possible sound. I use this for 100% movies. Speakers are Def Tech Bp30's mains with clr2000 center and bp1x for side surrounds. Sub is a single AV123 MFW-15 and receiver is Denon AVR-891. I dont think there is any way I can use any rears so I am guessing side surrounds are my only option. But based on my drawing, how would you recomend setting this up??

I assume the Tv is in front of the 5ft wall- couch area. I'd put the surrounds on the 5 ft wall with the rest on the sides of the TV. You could also place the surrounds on the side walls (left one will be 8 more feet away than the other and the Denon can compensate by entering in the distance info into its speaker setup menu).
post #23578 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bghead8che View Post

I am confused by the huge discrepancy is measurements. How can one show a -3DB point at 35hz and the other showing 103.6 DB all the way down to 20hz?

S&V said:Low bass output (40-63 Hz) averages 110.5 dB and ultra-low bass (20-31.5 Hz) output averages just 103.6 dB.

Which is -7dB from 60 to 20.
Quote:


Also, obviously the bass response is for one speaker. Running two speakers how much more DB can you expect from 20HZ to 40HZ?

Under perfect circumstances the second speaker will add 6dB SPL. However the response curve is still the same. You will get a bit more headroom for EQ but another speaker won't change the FR.
post #23579 of 29342
Quote:
Originally Posted by bodosom View Post

S&V said:Low bass output (40-63 Hz) averages 110.5 dB and ultra-low bass (20-31.5 Hz) output averages just 103.6 dB.

Which is -7dB from 60 to 20.
Under perfect circumstances the second speaker will add 6dB SPL. However the response curve is still the same. You will get a bit more headroom for EQ but another speaker won't change the FR.

Thanks! 103.6 DB is not half bad though even if it is down -7B, correct? The second speaker should only make the it down -1DB if I am correct.

-Brian
post #23580 of 29342
Ok guys selling out. I have 2 bp2002 tl, a clr2300 and 4 bp 1.2x. I also have an onkyo sr 706 thx receiver. All are in mint condition. Surrounds are new. Pm me If interested. I live in south Carolina. About 45 minutes from , charlotte north carolina.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Speakers
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Definitive Owners Thread