Definitive Owners Thread - Page 793

If you think about it, most of use c/l/r speakers as centers with bp series speakers which is mixing direct radiating with bipolars. There are 2 different types of bipolars. The type that have drivers that fire directly at the listener and directly at the rear wall and the trapezoid type which none of the drivers fire directly at the listening opsition. Imo the trapezoid are too difuse to be used as front height speakers.

I have the 2006's, but I do not use them with the lfe connection. Does anyone know where I can get the little plastic covers for them. I would like to make sure & keep dust out of the connection.

Can't really compare the direct radiating center channel mixed with bipole mains. Center channel must be "direct". That would be the last channel you would want diffused. :-)

I have BP8B for L/R. I also have PM1000's for height channels and the sound of direct and bipolar blends with no problem. Most of the sound coming from the height channels are affects and most of the time I can hardly tell if any sound is coming from them.

Is there a reason you are opposed to using electrical tape? It would even match your speaker

You are right about the trapezoid being to diffuse for front heights, I am thinking of taking these back and getting the pro monitor 1000s or the studio monitor 350 which one would be better for heights? Also do I return my sr8040s that I have as my rear surrounds and go with whatever speaker I pick for my heights or do I just leave them as my surrounds and just change the front heights?

The 350's or 1000's would be fine, flip a coin. I would leave the 8040's in back, the trapezoids work well as rear and side surrourds.

I had a 5.1 DefTech setup which originated with PM800's for L/R and the PC1000 for the center. However I ended up upgrading to SM450's for the L/R and moved the PM800's to the rear to complete a 7.1 design. I'm pretty sure the next piece I will be upgrading will be the center.

Do you think the CLR-2002 will match well with the SM450's? Or you think it will be a little too much? I figure with the new CS models out I can probably snag a CLR-2002 for reasonably cheap, and it would also future proof me a bit more than the PC2000 would if I ever upgrade to towers.

Thanks in advance!

i don't think a CLR-2002 would be too much for the sm-450s

i would even hunt around for a CLR-1000b for perfect timbre matching if you can snag one

you could also use a 3rd sm-450 for the ultimate in seamless front sound-stage

Listen to OTK You will be much happier with a used CLR1000b or 2000 plus they have the same 6 1/2" drivers that the 450 has.

So, the 7001 from Baja arrived yesterday in excellent condition. It did have a loose wire from the binding posts that caused the mids to not work at first I ran Audyssey which set the mains to 40hz, the 1000b and BPX's to 50hz. I changed the 7001's to full. I am also leaving the two 12" Rythmik's in the mix. The sound is awesome! However, it was not as big of a leap from my 7004's as I anticipated. I have a feeling that the Rythmik's really help the 7004's and the combination comes very close to what I now have. The 7004's always had an incredible sound stage. I assume that once the 7001's are broken in, the 7001's will open up a bit more. Don't get me wrong, I love the 7001's but I guess the reality is, if you have 7004's and great subs, you are pretty darn close. The 10" Super Cube subs do add to the bass. There is definitely an increase there. I have them set to 12 o'clock for now. My room is open so the addition of 2 10" subs will always help I plan to re-run Audyssey in another week or so. For now I have to give the 7001's a nice work out to loosen them up The upgrade was most definitely worth it especially for the price that I paid. The bottom line is, Definitive makes awesome speakers for the money, even more so if you can find a deal, either used or refurbished. Also, I can't thank bajawaverunner enough for his help. He is a great asset to this thread

I've been reading reviews on both and the are both excellent, but which one is better? Also I will be moving to another house in a few months with a very open floor plan, essentially I will have the same setup in the pics but with no side walls. will the sr8040s still work well or should I switch them out for monopoles?

I am currently in the process of calibrating my home theater setup using a Denon AVR-4311ci receiver and Audyssey MultEQ XT32. I am using the following Definitive Technology speakers with the calibration:

Left and Right Front - Mythos ST (each which includes 300 watt powered subwoofer)

Center - Mythos 10 (no subwoofer)

I'm using monoprice 12 guage speaker wire between the receiver and all speakers (about 10 feet in length for each). I also have the 10 foot LFE cables from Sub 1 and Sub 2 outs on the Denon to each of the SuperTowers.

Prior to performing the calibration, I selected LFE (not LFE+Main) for the subwoofer output per recommendations I have read here and elsewhere.

After completing the calibration setup (during which both subwoofers were tuned manually to 75db) I found that the Denon 4311 had configured the left and right SuperTowers to Large and the Mythos 10 to Small.

The crossovers for the SuperTowers was set to (Full Band) which was actually dialed in at 40hz. However the Mythos 10 Center had it's crossover set to 80hz.

Channel level reductions for all speakers and two subwoofers were all below -8db (so I'm not maxing out the receiver which has a channel trim limit of +/- 12db)

I have repeated this process a couple of times and always get the same results so I'm pretty sure that I have consistent/good numbers from the Audyssey calibration.

------

Now for my questions/comments:

The Denon Manual states that if LFE is chosen (and not LFE+Main) as the subwoofer setting, then speakers set to Large "will not pass" their frequencies below the crossover to the subwoofer. They will instead use the full dynamic range of the given speaker.

The Definitive Technology user manual says that if the LFE connection on the SuperTower is used, then the speakers should be set to Large and Subwoofer "Yes". It says that it will pass the required .1 frequencies from the content through the speaker wire directly to the subwoofer (and not use the LFE)

As the Mythos 10 Center Channel has no subwoofer, I would expect that it would be set to Small (which it is).

------

1. Therefore, would the only reason in using the LFE inputs on the SuperTowers be to pass the "center channel's" lower frequencies to the subwoofer (as the SuperTowers "Left/Right Front" themselves would not actually use the LFE due to Denon Front Left and Right "Large" speaker configuration)?

2. If the SuperTower LFE's are used (for the center channel speaker), does the Denon 4311 still actually send the entire frequency range to the SuperTowers Front Left and Right that then pass on the lower frequencies to the subwoofer as Definitive Technology claims?


3. I have read other areas regarding Audyssey setup that if "any subwoofer" is used, all speakers in the configuration should be set to Small. Does this help to improve the soundstage by forcing all of the speakers including the SuperTowers to use the LFE input for the lower frequencies?

------

4. If I set all my speakers to Small, I see that the previously Audyssey calibrated crossover settings for the Mythos 10 center channel (80hz) is different than the Supertowers (40hz). (Again, Audyssey had set the Front Left and Right to Large during calibration).

5. What I don't understand is that if these speakers are matched (same speaker dimensions), shouldn't the crossover be the same?

6. If I was to set all speakers to Small would it be better to set all of the crossovers to match (at 80hz) as all three speakers would then be using the LFE inputs for the lower frequencies?

7. Would I lose any dynamic range of the Mythos ST by changing the Denon setting from Large to Small.

------

8. What (if any) are the optimal settings for Audyssey with my components? I am looking for an optimal reference level for movies (with music being a close second). Does anyone else have this same setup?

Does anyone know if there is any stuffing/batting inside a clr2000? I would guess empty but I am getting ready to assemble a pair of them and have never seen the inside before and just wanted to check.

I did some more listening today, 7001's only with music. Much Impressed Amazing what just 2 7001's can produce

I took a driver off of my CLR1000b and saw a solid chunk of pink fiberglass batting behind each L/R driver but nothing in the center of the cabinet. The chunk extended from the magnet of the driver to the rear of the cabinet. Again nothing in the middle. I know it's not a 2000 but the 1000b should be similar. Hope that helps.

So I set up my BP-8080STs and.... they give me a headache. I am really sensitive to some speakers and I think the metal dome tweeter is the cause. Grrr.....

Anyone want a pristine set of 8080STs?


-Brian

I am still impressed with mine for music after 5 years. I'm sure you will enjoy yours for years to come.

I only head the BP8060, but regardless, you have to let the break in for atleast a few hours at a moderate-high volume level. I'll trade you two CLR3000's for your BP8080's Two less tweeters Also do you have decent room treatments? Probably need atleast rug floor and some drappes.

Better speaker for front heights Pro Monitor 1000 or Studio Monitor 350? Mains are Energy CF 70s and CC10

there are bp 7002,7006 and clr 2500 for sale as a set on audiogon if anyone is interested.

You can call Def Tech and verify, but they need at least 40 hours of break in.

Yes that does help greatly, thank you! I assume the 1000b is ported as well?

Hi Guys. quick question.

I have a c/l/r 3000, 2 BP2002tls for my mains and 3 BPX's as my surrounds. i am going to 7.1 and I need another surround speaker, but the BPX's are not really accessible nowadays. I talked to some one who suggested the new SR8080BP's, but all I really need is one.

So as far as sound and tone, do ya think that the new 8080 will be much different from my BPX? Or do you think that it will be much of a conflict?

TX!!!

replace the side BPXs with BPVXs and sell the extra BPX

There's a single BPX for sale right now on eBay. Guy wants retail however for a refurb - but its what you need...

OTKs idea is a good one however.

I recently (and finally) got my wish of a home theater. Projector with 92" diagonal screen. I wanted good sound so I got 4 Def Tech pro 80's a supercube and a CS 1000 center channel. My screen is not sonically transparent and there is no room at the top of the screen, so the only place it can go is just below the bottom of the screen. The problem is that no matter what I do, I cannot get the voices to seem to come from the people on the screen. Instead, it all is localized at the bottom of the screen. I have gone as far as using a block of wood under the speaker to aim it higher up. No luck. I was wondering if any of you audio wizards have any advice. I am sitting approx. 9 ft back from the screen. I hope someone has an idea. Thanks.

johnf

What receiver do you have - are you considering an upgrade?

Other than that, is your screen quite low to begin with?

Thanks, I am sure that I will!


Yes, it has two ports in the lower center, beneath the tweeter. Like I said, they are literally chunks of pink insulation that go from the driver to the rear wall of the cabinet.

I am currently using a Pioneer 1021 and have no plans to upgrade. The bottom of the screen is 29" from the floor and the speaker is sitting on a small cabinet which is 22" high. I cannot raise the screen any higher because of a ceiling fan located between the projector and the screen. Hope this helps.

johnf